DonnaDuane

Seems some of my posts are not showing up here. I posted the following last night to see if any of you know that this means. When I run the generator the LED on the EMS switch lights up, so power is getting to that switch. However, still no power to trailer. When it's switched to the ON position, I get the following codes: 128, OA, 60H, E2, PE2 Just spoke with Oliver. Here's what I learned. Those codes are saying either the Neutral Ground plug is faulty, or the surge protector is faulty, or the connection to the bypass switch is faulty. He recommended having an RV Tech check it out after trying a new Neutral Ground Plug. Duane

Yes. have been using a Bonding Neutral plug since I got it. I have been using the generator for power to the trailer for the past 5 winters, as that's when I use the Oly most. I take it skiing. I just learned from Service that I need to record the messages on the EMS LED when switched on. It displayed an error message and some other info. I checked the circuit breaker panel for issues and found none. Thank you for your suggestions and keep them coming if you know how to get this thing working again.

Yes. Using front generator/shore power hook up. Excuse my ignorance but where is the EMS display? When I look in the compartment there’s a little box with a led display and a switch. I’ve tried flipping the switch but nothing changed. The usual click when the system switches from battery to AC didn’t happen.

I have the same adapter I’ve used for years that I plug the 30Amp cable into

Any ideas why my generator power isn’t showing up in the trailer despite being plugged in the same as always. The only thing that has happened since I last ran the generator last Winter is my water pump stopped working, so repair guy ran new positive line from switch to pump. could the repair guy have done something to prevent generator power to enter the trailer? thank you

I've noticed that several screw holes are stripped, and the screws are very rusty from exposure to the elements. Can anyone advise me on how to fix existing holes, or get slightly larger screws that are less likely to rust. When screwing into fiberglass, is it necessary to tap the holes, and should I use some kind of thread lock? Thank you, Duane

Thank you. I have easy access to the switch just under the kitchen sink. I just need to know how to test lines for continuity

How does one check the continuity of the Ground Wire? Also, could it be the Switch at the sink or the connections to the switch? If so, how do I check those? I really appreciate any help on this. Duane

So here's the latest on my non working water pump. I ordered and installed a new pump and guess what? It doesn't make a peep either. Just spoke with Mike in Service and learned that checking voltage to the pump requires testing the Ground wire too the pump while testing the Red power coming in to the pump. I had simply grounded the multimeter to the aluminum frame and got 12.3 volts. So, we could have a faulty Ground issue. I will keep you posted.

I had a plastic bra installed on mine, similar to the one on my car. I drive to ski areas every weekend throughout the winter so it takes a beating from sand on the road.

I have an Elite I which is configured differently from a II. All 20 amp fuses in the panel are Good. I checked wire connections at the pump, and they appear to be Good. I need to know if the fuse is located somewhere else on my Elite I

I have a 2018 Elite I so my fuse panel is the rear most cabinet. None of the fuses are labeled Water Pump.

Is there a fuse for the pump? If so, where is it located?

Our water pump suddenly stopped working. Any ideas on where to start trouble shooting are appreciated. We’re camping now so we’re stuck without it. Thank you, Duane and Donna

My new CO/Propane Detector says to disconnect power before installing. Do I need to disconnect a battery cable to shut off power to detector wires? Or, is there an easier way?