MattE

Thanks, trainman. Geronimo John, what Bug Light are you referring to? Is that something from Oliver? I talked to Mike yesterday, who went out in the shop and spent quite a bit of time looking at units under construction, and he said that my only real option is to remove the refrigerator and the refrigerator floor. He didn't recommend that, and I wouldn't go through all that for a light anyway. So now I'm looking for a battery powered, motion sensor driven LED light to put there. The motion sensor will trigger it when going in or out and hopefully the batteries will last a while that way. I'm sure the light will be brighter than the courtesy lights, and Mike recommended an auto parts store film or cover to dim it down. This is turning into quite the research project.

The outside courtesy light on the front passenger side (under the refrigerator) of our LEII has failed. I took it out, and one of the wires (not the red one) apparently separated at the splice because it is cleanly cut about 4 inches away from the light assembly, and the splice it pulled away from is not at all accessible with finger or pliers. Jason said that I can take the refrigerator out (um, no thanks) or fish a wire to the back courtesy light and splice it in there. I ordered a new light, but I can't reach the old wire, or the main wires bringing power to the light, so I bought an endoscope. Using the endoscope and also using a fish tape, I cannot locate an opening from that tiny outside compartment under the refrigerator to the area inside behind the kitchen drawers. Has anyone had to re-run a wire like this?

Hello all. Crystal bought a new Oxygenics shower head kit, and I was trying to to swap it out in place of the original in our 2018 LEII. However, while the thread on the new wand is the same as the old one, it's not an "easy swap", because of the difference in design of the two. I investigated the other end of the hose, under the sink, and the Oliver supply line does not match the 1/2" fitting of the Oxygenics hose. I've read through this 4 year old thread, but can't see where anyone actually reported back on having swapped their original out for an Oxygenics. Before I go off in search of elusive adapters at True Value I thought I'd ask here, in case I'm missing something obvious. Not that that would ever happen. Thanks in advance. Be safe. Matt

John - Somehow I missed this, your initial, response. Yes, I had come to realize that the black tank is higher than the gray. So, my "equalizing" plan definitely will not work with some tricks like you mentioned. I'll keep noodling it, and see if any brainstorms emerge. For now, though, I'm going to move on to something simpler. Thanks again Matt

Very helpful ,John, thank you. I had seen - and read the majority of - the first thread, but hadn't run across the second. Having read the second one now, I have a question about Jason's response to you. He said ... It is tied into the plumbing line under the bath vanity that vents out the roof of the camper. This plumbing pipe is used to allow air to vent out of the system for proper draining. It is not tied into the black tank, but the black tank flush port is on the outside of the camper. No one can run water into the black tank from outside because under the dinette seat inside the camper we have an inline shark bite valve that you will leave closed to prevent this from happening. The vent is also connected so if they did fill up the black tank it would overflow into the vent pipe and drain into the grey tank. Is he saying that the inline shark valve is between the outside flush port and the black tank? Or between the black tank and the outlet in the bumper? I can't see a shark bite valve under the dinette, but I don't quite know what I'm looking for. If he meant the the former (which I think he meant), it doesn't affect my plan to re-purpose the black tank as an auxiliary gray tank. However, if the latter, it seems it would prevent me from allowing gray water to flow "backwards" into the black tank. Having said that, it may be a moot point though, because it appears to me that the black tank sits higher than the gray tank. In that case, water from the gray will never equalize itself UP into the black tank. Anyone have comments? Thanks Matt

Hi. First post so please re-direct me if this belongs elsewhere. I searched but didn't see a pertinent thread. We have a Legacy Elite II, and opted for the Nature's Head composting toilet That means we are not using the black tank, so want to re-purpose it as an auxiliary gray tank. Has anyone added a slide valve (like a Valterra blade valve) at the outlet in the bumper, then pulled both gray and black valves to let the water equalize between the two tanks? If so, are there any gotchas or tips that you would like to relay? We'll be very careful not to overfill the black tank, but if it did overfill, would the first exit point be the roof vent? In other words, did OTT completely seal off the pipe where the standard toilet would normally connect to the black tank? They covered it so that I can't see what's under there easily. Or, is there somewhere else water would escape that I'm not thinking of? Many thanks Matt