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nrvale0

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  1. This has never appeared in search but popped up on the sidebar after your suggestion, @topgun2 : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q1GWVX5/ref=twister_B07R5HF9NP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Getting pretty close. I could probably figure out a way to attach a suction cup...
  2. That's getting there. I'm hoping to find something with wire shroud. I have a plugged unit now that's a little too big for what I like which I use as supplemental air movement in the kitchen area and bathroom to keep things dry. Not so much worried about keeping cool with it.
  3. I've been looking for a small white fan with suction cup mount (possibly even USB-charged) for moving around the trailer for various purposes and haven't had much luck finding anything via the usual suspect (Amazon, Walmart, Target, dollar stores). Anybody found one? Most of the ones for use on a desk in an office are black or are huge. I'd like to be able to pop it on the underside of the light rails and above the kitchen area as needed. Thx
  4. So, just to close the loop on this one... Was able to get to the zerks on top of the axle by crawling underneath the next time I was on asphalt. Definitely a lot easier than trying to get to those zerks with the wheels in place and crouching. As to non-leaking grease guns...I just double seal in ZipLocs and put a paper towel over the coupler and attach with a rubber band.
  5. Oh, also, @rideandfly, at least on my '19 the zerks are facing outwards. I replaced them all with 45s and 90s in addition to them facing out.
  6. Hey, folks. Thanks for the ideas. Particularly on raising the front axle. Don't know why I didn't think about that at the time time except that I was probably distracted thinking about ways to NOT lay on the ground due to those goat's head thorns. 😉 I have a LocknLube coupler but it doesn't have a 90deg on it. The LnL actually works against me in trying to get to that top zerk because it extends the length of what is non-flexible at the end of the flexible hose. Not sure if the 90 is worth the $60 but if I can't find another option... I'll be rolling again tomorrow so I'm going to try to stop on some asphalt and use the levelling blocks to see if that makes up the difference. Will let you know. As to greasing intervals, yes, the Oliver folks said 3k miles. I'm a bit over on that equalizer zerk due to not noticing it on my previous go-around.
  7. I installed 45 and 90 degree zerks all over the Dexter axle today and, let me tell you, what a difference! Mostly... There's a zerk on the top of the axle mounting assembly -- I think that might be the equalizer -- which through no bending of flexible grease gun hose, permutation of coupler attachment, cursing, and warping of space-time was I able to access. It looks like they only way to get access to that zerk is to crawl under the trailer and come at it from that angle but the campsite was infested with these guys: Curious if anyone has come up with a clever method for getting to those zerks without taking off wheels or crawling around under the trailer. thx
  8. Hey, everyone. I just wanted to thank everyone for keeping this thread going! I've not had a chance to comment in the thread -- heck, I've not had a chance to read the thread in detail -- because I'm just finishing up getting the last of stuff sold off or in storage for going full-time. Have spent several stints of 7/10 days, and longer, in the trailer already. As of tomorrow morning I'm officially full-time though! I will say that I've used several of the ideas posted over the last few months and made a few tweaks. I'm not quite happy with the arrangement I have now but I'm finding I also have been using maybe 50-75% of the storage available in the trailer (It's just me.) so perhaps I'm not going to have to be as clever at some of this stuff as I thought. I'm helped by having a large van as tow vehicle so some of the stuff others might keep inside I have in the van. Anyway, thanks again! Looking forward to catching up here soon and perhaps I'll even throw in some of my own successes.
  9. Re the quoted lifespan of a wrap, I've had longer conversations with some folks here in CA. They didn't make a distinction whether it would be the wrap or the adhesive which would age less well but they did say that they estimate on the conservative side assuming folks will be traveling around RV parks in the West where things are not always well shaded and sun can be intense. My take, even if you choose a color which will last 5 years before it needs re-done that's still a lot of money for what it is. I'm with those who say painting is probably the best option. My dad built and raced his own fiberglass racecars for years and he always painted them himself. He was careful with the surface prep, was very particular about the primer, and was cost-for-value minded on the paint and they always looked great. Of course he changed colors every ... maybe 5 years ... and the car wasn't sitting out in the sun unless it was at the track so YMMV. Man, I sure would like a flat dark earth brown TT and TV to blend into chaparral, sand, etc out West but I'll definitely have to save up for the paint job. Not something I care to undertake myself. Nasty stuff.
  10. So this is a topic I've been investigating lately... Quotes I've had for a wrap have ranged from 3k to 10k for a matte wrap. Varying mostly by geography ( high: CA, low: Ohio ). Universally, I've been told I should only expect 2 to 3 years max out of top sections due to sun/UV. So a wrap seems like a non-viable solution unless you REALLY need a color.
  11. This was shared with me today. Thought it made a decent post here...
  12. Hey, Mike. I'll check my '19 tonight to see if I get the same result.
  13. Fair enough. I have a '19 EII. For my situation it was just a loose contact on the backside of the switch panel near the door. For the sake of others, since the panels are not super well-documented, if someone knows please post fuse details. I have to be on the road today but I may play around with the fuses this evening to see if I can locate.
  14. Hi, everyone. My outside courtesy lights stopped working and so I've been trying to find the breaker. The label in fuse box cover in the attic doesn't mention the outside courtesy lights nor does the similar label in the converter. There is a fuse labeled "basement" in the converter but... Anybody been in the courtesy lights who might be able to advise? Thx
  15. I wasn't sure if the 3.5" pins would work but now that I look at the mechanism it looks okay and that would be an easy option. FWIW, the Parts folks at Oliver (they have a ticketing system) got back to me and it looks like their prices for replacements are lower than anything I found online.
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