Jps190
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Posts posted by Jps190
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20:48 and power has been out at the campground for about 2.5 hours. Hopefully will be resolved by morning. Had only pea sized hail during the storms so luckily no vehicle damage. Here’s to lithium batteries and an abundance of stored power!!! 😁😁😁
John
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E31. John and Kim. #867. Peachtree City, GA
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Consider redundancy also. With 2 batteries you aren’t dead in the water if one fails. With one 460 you would be SOL. Not that these batteries fail that often but it can happen as with all electronics.
John
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Colter bay RV park. Grand Tetons.
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It really depends on how particular you are about how your ollie looks and also how you store it. I have ceramic on both my truck and my wife's car. Her car lives in the garage and still looks and washes like the day the ceramic was applied. My truck lives outdoors and the ceramic started to fail after the 2.5 year mark. If I stored my trailer indoors then the ceramic would be a no brainer but since my Oliver lives outside at a storage facility I just wash it occasionally and but and wax every 6 months. Does it look perfect, no, but the great part about gelcoat is that it can always (within reason) be brought back to life with a little effort.
John
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The houghton is designed to have the fan run when the compressor is off. Turing the fan to low makes it less noise and still allows the air to circulate. The issue with the Houghton is that the thermistor is up inside the unit which is why the fan was designed to run constantly according to the manufacturer. I would return the unit to its original design (no relay) and see if that solves your problem.
John
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We just finished up a 4 week trip and during the last few days we have a horrible gray tank smell in the trailer after a travel day. The first time I noticed it I verified the valve was closed and before the next travel day I made sure there was water in all the traps (both sinks and shower). Happened again today on or last leg home. Tank was empty, valve was closed (verified under the front seat). Anyone have this issue or ideas before I start tearing into things?
John
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6 minutes ago, Corvus said:
Thank you for posting the assembly instructions.
What stands out to me is the instructions say to insert the deep end of the hinge pin toward the center of the door. Both of mine have the shallow end toward the center of the door. Maybe the deep end act as a buffer (bushing?) to prevent it from wearing away the hinge door stop. The weight of the door is mostly supported by the top end of the hinge door stop where the hinge pin rest and that is where mine is damaged.
Judging from the photos it looks like Patriot's hinge pins were put in correctly or they are different. Your hull and mine are closer in production than Patriots.
Do you know if Oliver buys these doors as a kit and assembles them or buys them already assembled? If the former it might explain some inconsistencies in assembly.
I just looked at my hinge pins and they appear to be installed opposite of those directions also.
john
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Just my .02 but if I were you, I would seriously consider the switch to Lithium. If you are boondocking 9 days at a time then lithium will give you much better performance in all aspects. They are lighter, last longer, charge faster and you can pack more power into a fixed amount of space. The Elite 2 battery tray can fit 2 of the Epoch 300ah batteries which would give you plenty of power for long boondocking adventures.
John
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I have done some rather extensive mods to the electrical in my trailer. I have 2 SCCs that are both run through a Victron Lynx distributor. One SCC is for the roof solar (600 watts) and the second is fed from the zamp solar port on the side. The advantage of having the SCC in the trailer as opposed to on the solar panel is that you can run small gauge wires since the amperage is relatively low coming out of the panel. When panels are run in series the Amps aren’t ramped up until after the SCC. Using smaller gauge wire makes it easy to locate your portable panels away from the trailer which may be in the shade. I just use cheap landscape wire which is easy to roll up an store away.
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It’s been awhile but here is how the final install turned out. The fridge fit perfectly into the old surround that I scavenged from the norcold. I planed down a piece of walnut to cover the hole, install the digital display and add a vent. Overall turned out great.
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I second the Epoch batteries. Great build quality. Those Dakotas are WAY overpriced.
John
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On 5/24/2024 at 8:02 AM, Jim and Frances said:
@Jps190 - quick question....How exactly does the front control panel come off? Just to confirm what the factory has told me, must the frig be removed to get to the screws that affix the front control panel to the frig?
Thanks much!
There is no way to remove the screws from the front without pulling the fridge out. You may be able to get to the screws through the upper vent on the outside of the trailer. There are only 2 of them if I recall correctly.
John
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Looks Like Jim is the lucky winner. I’ll be in touch.
John
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2 hours ago, mountainoliver said:
Do you have any photos of the installation? I’ve already installed a compressor fridge in my trailer five years ago but, there may be others who would be very interested in seeing the installation (I am as well!). Thanks
I'm not completely done just yet. I was able to extract the face frame from the Norcold to use instead of creating a whole new frame. I still need to get that installed and figure out some vent covers and where I am going to mount the Isotherm ITC controller. My install is very similar to John Davies with regards to building a platform and wiring everything to a bus bar on top of the fridge. I was lucky in the fact that my cabinet area was relatively square. I'll post some finish pics when I'm done.
John
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I am finishing up installing the Isotherm fridge in my 2021 Oliver. I removed the Norcold 3-Way fridge and stripped the 2 circuit boards and front control panel. They are free to anyone who wants them. Just pay the shipping costs.
John
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19 minutes ago, ScubaRx said:
John, apparently you’ve not been on the forum or FB in the past month or better. Oliver made the announcement about service in Hohenwald being phased out several several weeks ago. By now it’s pretty old news. Perhaps you should come to the Rally and lead the charge.
I was aware of the announcement but was under the impression that they would still be available for a larger repairs/modifications. I’ll just do it myself and save a couple grand although I would have rather had them do it to save the time. I certainly won’t be letting some dealer tear into my Oliver.
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I just called the service department to inquire about having my fridge swapped out with the Isotherm. No dice. I was told that I would have to go through a dealer to have it done. What a bunch of BS that is. It seems to me that that is a pretty big job that I should have the option of having the factory do. I hope everybody at the Rally lets Oliver know how we feel about this.
John
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3 hours ago, Galway Girl said:
Are there any higher wattage panels that would fit that space? Or are the 200w the max for that size? Just curious.
When I did this modification it was the best bang for the buck/footprint I could find. Could you go a little bigger? Maybe! But I didn’t want to have to deal with covering any vents or getting too far forward or overhanging the sides too much. I have an RSI Smartcap being delivered soon and I will probably put the old Zamp panels on top of it so I should be at about 940 watts before any ground deployment. This is a real rabbit 🐇 hole…..😆
John
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12 hours ago, jd1923 said:
Nice! Please explain why the solar charge is reading at 52V? Are the panels 12V or greater, wired in series?
MAX is correct. The panels are wired in series which allows the voltage to get higher earlier in the morning. (Charges sooner) Only downside to this is if one panel gets shaded then they all take a hit but this is such a small area I don't think it will be a factor. I am actually running 390AH of Lithionics. The 13.6 volts was the current battery voltage. (They weren't fully charged)
John
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Finally getting some higher sun angles. All is working well! Pulled in just under 3 KWH the other day.
John
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1 hour ago, mossemi said:
Since that price is for the bare tool only, I doubt it's a bunch cheaper. Since I'm not an old Milwaukee guy, just a Milwaukee guy and do not own an DeWalt tools, I did buy a Viair several years back. And the only time I needed it was to help a neighboring camper air up his bicycle tires.
Mossey
Yeah...My Viair has been used maybe twice since I bought it. One time "might" have been to blow up an inflatable water toy. This is what keeps holding me back from installing onboard air. The big use for onboard air would be to install a train horn for left lane drivers. 🤣
John
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On 2/14/2024 at 9:06 AM, Wandering Sagebrush said:
Is there a way you could put this in a pdf or other format? I can’t view the file on my iPad..
BTW, thanks for putting it together for the rest of us. It’s much appreciated!
It will open in the Numbers app.
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Starlink Mini Roam $50.00 a month
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by Jps190
For anyone with the harbor freight flagpole and the Starlink mini, a 1 1/4 inch PVC union works perfectly with the mount that comes with the starlink. You just need to drill new holes for the clear support ring a little lower down to make room for the PVC.