GAP

Awesome contextualization Sherry. I certainly don't want to start off this adventure assuming that our trailers is somehow lacking without giving it a full on shakedown period to strut it's stuff. Like (too) many of us guys, I have a perpensity to want everything wayyy overbuilt and overengineerd. Think I'll take your sage advice and see how it goes.

I am lining up ducks for December pick up of E2. Have questions based on your impressive experience(s) with insurance and roadside assistance: - Roadside: I saw in a recent forum chain that some are happy with Good Sam and othres with AAA. Have tracked other forums where it seems that GS has gone through recent changes resulting in spotty customer results. I am primarily investigating AAA or FMCA as a consequence but, who know??? Can find folks with legit complaints or enthusiasims about all. Considering first hand experience and different formats, any thoughts? Seems like some policies will cover trip interuption, medical evac, hotels/meals during lengthy repairs, allow for tows to prefered shops, etc... - Insurance: We are just starting down this road. Have heard goood things about Hartford and Allstate. Did you bundle with existing insurance policy? I have progressive and it seems like an option. - Etended Warrantee: Interestingly, some have opted to set up their own program by contributing the cost equivalent in an account. Mixed results on that. I would bet with a solid performer like Oliver and a well maintained TV, could be worth the gamle. I have not yet looked into the new Oliver offering along these lines but it would be a hard apple to bite, caughing up a wad a cash to purchase a pricey EW for a brandy new trailer. That said it sounds like the only way to lock in a reasonable cost is to purchase a EW when the vehicle is close to new and sign on for multiple years.

To circle back on a couple of points: - John, it sounds like the stabalizers MAY be able to lift the wheels clear of ground in optimal circumstance but not to be trusted for much beyond tire rotationchange per you and bhncb. My take away is I really need to properly level tires than use the stabilizers to fine tune and, you know, stabalize. - Sherry, if I undertand correctly, you are saying that folks are no longer adding lift kits to Olivers as, effectively, the factory has already done so. Is that right? My interest in a lift kit was primarily out of caution for the rough backcountry "roads" I can see in my future. - A thought on lifting points: I would bet you can find (or have made, for that matter) Jack Point or Lift Here stickers.

Picking up my brandy new E2 in December. Total novice to camper camping so go easy on me. I appreciate the following may be a rediculous query but hre goes: - I see wedge or comma shaped items to drive up on to level or change a tire. Anderson, etc... Given enough height assist from leveling buckets or wood blocks, do the power stabalizers have enough muscle to get the job done? Is it neccessary to have support under the wheels themselves? - I'm going to be super boondocky. Also want to avoid dragging my back end on terra firma if plaing on very uneven surface. Have read a bit here in the forum about some of you folks adding a lift kit to your Olivers. I'm assuming that is an after market endeavor. Where did you source yours and was it neccessary to have them shop installed? Thanks very much, GAP

Nice hack. That is a big chunk of thinking. Thanks much

Really good pointers. I ordered the Pur filter John suggested already. The reason i am considering the dual stage filtration is to use in iffy boondocking situations. While the system will be regularly "shocked" to clen out critters, I feel it may be worth the effort to prevent that sort of contamination from happening in the first place. Ctshort09, do you think the on board pump would have the suction to pull water through a 50' hose and dual filtration system? This could be a likely scenario if grabbing water fron a stream or lake. I would assume that pump is more appropriate to the short hose (with standard el cheapo RV filter) scenario you described. Susan, thanks much on the reassurance on the on board surge protector. Really great to know it will shut things down when needed. I will have a small genarator and opted for the impressively pricey lithium based solar package, so should be good to go. BTW, 2020 still offers a solid solar system federal tax deduction which, as far as my research shows, does not depend on the trailer being claimed as a second home. 26% if memory serves me well. We are slated to pick up just 3 days before you. Not sure how long we will be at the campground but lets keep in touch. It would be great to meet you. The goat head is part of my business logo. I have an ocean based, rough water instructional and event thingy: Surf, rock gardening and tide race play. Some of the folks I work with call my an old mountain goat (I used to teach mountaineering). Thanks for all the input. More newbie questions to follow.

Hey All We are picking up our brandy new E2 in December. Just lining up ducks here with questions concerning watering. Forgive basic query but it's our first go around with trailering. We are hoping to use our clean water tnk for potable water. Was condiering a dual stage filter set up - 5 micron and .5 micron. That would filter out unwanted bits, plus nasty critters (cryptosiridium and giardia) and most bad taste. Could go a step further by using a Brita type gravity feed at the faucet. Questions: - would I need an AC or DC pump to get the water through those filters? - Assuming so, would it work best pre filter (pushing) or post filter (pulling? - Is there an on board water pressure regulator? If not I could attach one to the filtration system. - Anyone know the highest pressure appropriate for taking filling the clean water tank or is it simply a matter of feeding somewhere south of the water backing up? - Does the "city water" port have a built in regulator and if not, what pressure should I be aiming for? As a bonus question: I see there is some sort of built in surge protector. Went to University and saw that it shuts off in over & under volltage situaions which is great. Question is, will it protect against ground fault and reversed polarity? I beleive the coded warnings will indicate either of those situations but have no idea if it would shut off the feed in either/both circumstances. Thanks much in advance. GAP

All this great feedback is super usefull. Thanks everyone. I have recently spoken to a couple of folks frequently pulling the same weight (in a less aerodynamic box) with the same vehicle and they both were satisfied customers. Most folks look at the size of this truck and underate it's towing and payload capacities. I agree that over purchasing on the accessories may be too much of a gamble without giving the system enough time to see if it works well for me or not. I'll give it a go with the Anderson hitch, a progressive brake system and the airbags to see how it feels. If I need to upgrade my TV, I'll bite the bullet. Either way, will post here to share how things worked out. Gerry

Great feedback. I know it's not the ideal set up but it's going to have to be what it is for a while. The Chevy has a 20 gallon tank. As far as I can tell, mileage will drop to somewhere around 14mpg which means I'll be somewhere north of 250 miles per tank which will outlast my aging capacity to hold my own water. Ha. Sherry and SeaDawg's points on the Anderson and airbags are good ones. I'll go that way. Also am planning on a progressive braking system which should be safer on thos edownhills and in snowy conditions. Was planning on the Trifecta Tune anyhow, so the modest extra muscle can't hurt. Thanks all for the sage advice. Great forum. I'll follow up with the gory details after laying down some miles.

I know this is well trodden ground but... We are just about to sign a contract for an Elite II. Super excited!!! That said, we are a tad nervous about our TV. 2016 Chevy Colorado, 3.6 liter 6cyl, 4x4. Curb weight is 4,500 lbs. That particular model is rated to tow up to 7,000lbs. GCWR (loaded truck and trailer) is 12,000lbs. The trailer has a dry weight of 4,900lbs which, close as I can tell = 5,500-6,000 fully loaded with a tank of water. We will be running a compositing toilet (no black water) and emptying our grey water while on the road. Soooo, a couple of thoughts based on homework so far: - will have some sort of anti sway, distribution system. either the Anderson ($$$, lighter, reviews make it sound a bit tweaky to hitch/unhitch)) or Equalizer (free hand me down, noisy, easy to set up/de-couple, backs up while hooked up OK but not great). Thoughts? - was considering a Trifecta Tune. Supposedly increases MPG (whether towing or not), adds a bit of torque and horsepower in "tow mode" and changes shift points to speak to increased efficiency when heavy towing - am getting mixed messages about the need for a rear suspension air bag when using a anti sway/distribution device. - the 7,000lb tow capacity of the truck is SAE rated. Supposedly that means the 7k limit is good for day to day driving where as, in the past, common knowledge was to not frequently tow more than 80% of capacity. BTW, 80% of 7,000 is 5,600 which seems to be close to where I'd land Thanks much to you super knowledgable types on this forum for your valuable input