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GAP

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  1. The vent under the galley is supposed to allow for manual adjustment. One of the fins on ours was out of true so Jason from the shop told us how to realign. Basically, you stick a finger through the outer grate and pull as it is meant to just pop off. The vents were easy to pop back in their tracks after. We have closed ours entirely and turned to rear vent to blow air towards the galley. Plenty warm to fill the cabin. This allows more heat to make it to the bathroom
  2. I have not heard any updates from Jason but was going to reach out to see what's up on his end. We are going on a trip to New Hampshire for a few days of skiing. Should be plenty of chance to continue testing my new settings. Will share anything of value that I come up with.
  3. The adjustments to the Xantrex setting are quick and easy to do. Their instructions manual is intimidatingly long and certainly contains this information. In my case, I called them directly to ask about my overload issues with the generator and under voltage shut down of the Xantrex and they walked me through the rest. When I discussed this process with Jason at Oliver, he seemed interested and planned on following up with Xantrex to find out if my settings were a one off. My thought is that if you are not having a similar problem, there's nothing to worry about. If you are having t
  4. Actually, I recently went deep down the rabbit hole of charging the lithiums vs running AC based items (AC, radar range, toaster) by having a long talk with an awesome tech at Xantrex. May be an issue for another chain but... Turns out that the Xantrex charger is set up to prioritize feeding AC product first and does so by shutting off lithium charging till your AC done with. This is supposedly true whether you are plugged into shore power or running a generator. The tech also pointed out that the factory settings on the Xantrex is set up with shore power in mind so she hand held me th
  5. Marine shops offer plenty of products to do this. For my fiberglass kayaks, which are similarly finished in gelcoat, I keep a couple of products on hand. I have a fiberglass rubbing compound, light duty, which is good for buffing out minor scratches and scuffs. After use, the surface has a dull shine to it. Also have a finishing polisher/wax which brings back the original, high gloss shine. If there are scratches that need deeper attention, I will hit the area lightly with sandpaper as needed. I may start with a middle grade such as 120 or 150, than go over it with 400 than move one to w
  6. I do have a clamp on meter but on a quick glance, saw no single runs off the heating pad to be able to wrap around to check for load. Will have to take another look. the tail that runs to the negative is a double so I would assume that covers the led on the on/off switch. I believe there is a single that runs to the positive.
  7. Thanks on that John. I'll keep an eye out to see your update. I've been camping in the cold here in New England a couple of times since getting my E2. As far as I can tell, after a number of tests, the battery heating pad is having zero effect on the battery internal temps. It may be that the light is on but no one's home - meaning that the battery pad light works but not the pad itself. Even after hours at around freezing temps, there is no effect and I cannot feel any difference on the bottom of the battery tray. Will eventually figure out if the pad is the problem but, either way,
  8. Sounds like a great and worthwhile project, John. I can almost wrap my brain around the approach. Question is that you mentioned it will assist in cooling the battery box in summer and heating it better in the winter. The former makes immediate sense but I can't picture why the latter would work. Is the assisting heat source going to drawing ambient air into the box from the under street side bed area and, if not, what type of dedicated heat source were you considering? Thanks much, GAP
  9. This seems like a super attractive add on. If I understand the results, the thought of running the fridge DC while underway, would be fantastic. We just picked up our new E2 and were on the road with it for a couple of weeks. Was surprised to see how much power the fridge used while running on DC even with the lithium package. Winter sun is too low to replace that amount of power and truthfully, I'd expect that even summer sun on a clear day would produce enough power to do so. I'll search the forum to see chains on this subject. John, do you have a suggested gauge wire to run from TV ba
  10. Thanks folks. That is the answer I was hoping for. Aside from monitoring traffic behind the trailer, another benefit could be as a security camera while parked. Always a good thing. Would some day like to add a forward facing camera as well.
  11. Hey John, Per your suggestion, I picked up a Level Master level. Similar to your sage, the first one arrived with a leak. The second one looks clean but, both have a pretty decent sized air bubble in the tube. Is that just the way they are or did the second somehow spring a leak as well? Thanks
  12. While on the subject, does anyone have the rear view option that comes with the trailer. We went that way and, as we have not yet done our pick up, I'm wondering if it is wired into the back up lights or is always on? Hoping it's the latter. Gerry
  13. Ours will be ships passing in the night. We'll be on the road already by the time you get to Oliver. Will have to meet you some time down the line. Hope everything goes really well for you guys and that you have a great trip.
  14. Interesting timing on this discussion. As things stand now, the fed solar tax credits are phasing out. If my memory is accurate, 2019 and before allowed for a 30% credit. 2020 goes down to 26% and 2021 is 19%. Could be a good time to do a cyber Monday upgrade!!!
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