Jump to content

GAP

Members
  • Content Count

    56
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

16 Good

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Interesting timing on this discussion. As things stand now, the fed solar tax credits are phasing out. If my memory is accurate, 2019 and before allowed for a 30% credit. 2020 goes down to 26% and 2021 is 19%. Could be a good time to do a cyber Monday upgrade!!!
  2. Fantastic for you guys. What days are you going to be in the campground? We are doping our tutorial on the 3rd and will be there December 3-4. Decided to take 2 days at the campground to run through everything thoroughly. Let us know if we'll overlap. Could have a socially distanced adult beverage - or two.
  3. I have a pair of under tire levelers similar to the Anderson wedges. They too are built to be cut down, if needed, to fit between the tires on the Elite 2. The overall length is 15" so pretty much the same as the Anderson's. Does anyone know if there is a need to cut these down and, if so, by how much? I am picking up our Oliver in just a few days and prefer to do that surgery at home.
  4. Good info John. I am probably going with Progressive as well so it helps to know that one can decline the RA for the trailer. We are doing the same policy as you with AAA. Also good to know that one can cancel their call if you find a quicker tow source on your own and try to get reimbursed for those expenses. Our customer service person stated that those attempts sometimes get denied.
  5. I'm not surprised to hear about these problems being common. The overvoltage from an older generator may be able to be regulated if there is a manual throttle or by using an appropriately sized dimmer/rheostat in line. The former is easy if it already exists and the latter is pricey unless you already own. Undervoltage in areas at campgrounds is probably the norm. The further you push power through a line, the more power is lost. As I understand it, low gauge (thicker) wire offers less resistance and carriers electricity better and further but costs much more. Even a relatively sim
  6. After doing some additional research, we are taking your advice to heart on the extended warrantee stuff. Seems like it's better in this circumstance just to "self insure" especially considering the reasons you've listed above. Doing homework now on a policy to cover the Oliver. Have a couple of quotes but it's hard to find good suggestions as travel trailer insurance seems to be a different animal than typical RV insurance. Anyhoo, looking at Progressive, Good Sam and Farmers so just in going through the process, we should come up to speed. Of course, any/all suggestions are welcome.
  7. Bill & JD, I concur! When working around electricity and expensive equipment, "anal tendencies" save the day. As Bill said, the on board surge protector should protect everything on board even when I'm not standing at the pedestal with a meter or tester (like to Sperry unit RB linked to above). The meter and/or tester will catch switched polarity or open ground but over/under voltage can happen anytime and not be caused by anything happening within the pedestal itself. If problems are caught early, it offers an opportunity to switch sites to one that has a clean feed.
  8. Hey Bill, Perhaps a silly question but considering that the on-board surge protector supposedly has built in protection including over/under voltage, reversed polarity, ground fault, etc... why is it worth it to go through the steps you described with your portable unit? I would have assumed that the trailer itself is well protected with the on-board unit acting as a stop gap for any questionable electrical situations. I habitually use a multi meter to quick check polarity and ground when working with an unknown source but would have that step would be redundant in this situation.
  9. I checked out your link to level mounting instructions. As usual, they were very clear and nicely laid out. I'll bring the bits and pieces to do so on my maiden voyage at the beginning of December and do the mounting down south before coming back to the wicked frozen north. Thanks on that John.
  10. Really great info all around. Now I know the footprint of the lever(s) base. Super useful. If 6x6 has been working in a boondocky situation, that is awesome as it saves me the extra weight of super sizing to 8x8. As mentioned, the buckets seem like a great item but are not space efficient and wouldn't save much weight. I can use a few 2x boards to 1) build up the jack blocks as needed and/or 2) build up the leveling wedges as needed. A secondary benefit is avoiding having to buy more plastic stuff (leveling buckets, blocks). We feel good about avoiding where possible. Thanks for the in
  11. Great info Bill. Especially helpful to know the height of the jacks when fully retracted. 6" seems like a small footprint if leveling on uneven ground while boondocking. In your experience, do you think it would be worth stepping up to 8x8s or considering the Camco buckets I was checking out for that application or do you think your style blocks with a little shovel work would be fine?
  12. I've been eyeballing a couple of these. Camco Stabilizer Jack Supports Seems like they will save some weight and work could be more stable boondocking on uneven ground better than slices of 8"x8" lumber but the opening in the top is quite wide. Does anyone use these and know if they speak well to the disc at the bottom of the stabilizer jacks? Was also considering using an 8x8 block for the front jack. For leveling the tires, I bought a set of Anderson wedges and was thinking of having a couple each of 2x8 in 12" length in case I need to come up more than 4". Would that wood fit betw
  13. BTW, does anyone happen to know the dimensions of the pads at the bottom of the three jacks? I bought a set of the Camco yellow Stabalizer Jack Supports and was surprised to see how big the open area in the center was. Huge items but would probably weigh less than constructing something similar from wood
  14. Jim, that is a big chunk of clarification. using the chocks on the non leveled side and, as Patriot does, using levelers that have a chock type aspect to them, like the Andersons, should do the trick. Thanks gents.
  15. Super interesting trip down the rabbit hole. Really useful information so thanks to all on that. It's great to know that it is possible to run the AC on a 2200i converted to work on propane. Whew! Really didn't want to travel with a spare gas can that speaks only to the gennie and not to any other component. I did a bit of research this AM. A few interesting points that seem to apply: - Propane regulators are supposedly "self regulating" so will adjust by their working nature to changes in altitude automatically adjust for pressure differential between atmosphere inside the tan
×
×
  • Create New...