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  1. I'm a bit confused as to the intend of #28. In dealing with the folks at Xantrex, they've explained that the units will always prioritize appliance demand over charging. For example, when I use my air conditioner, there is very little power, if any, flowing to the batteries. Is 28 intended to set a limit so the inverter/ charger won't try to feed an appliance and bulk charge the batteries at the same time? I may be doing it wrong but I've always set #28 to reflect the available "grid" power so I set it to 15amps when on a 15a circuit, 30amp when at a campground with 30a service, 18a when using my Honda 2200i, etc...
  2. While not on the road, i've recently started keeping my Elite 2 plugged in to power a dehumidifier. As I did not want to have the charger constantly topping off the lithium batteries Per manufacturer's suggestion), I went to #26 in the Xantrex menu and set to Auto which disables the charger but still allows incoming for AC power for 110v devices such as the dehumidifier. After about a week, I noticed that my two 200ah lithiums had drained down about 25% which is way way more then the normal parasitic draw would account for - LP/carbon monoxide detector, lights on the stereo display, etc... In checking the Xantrex display, I can clearly see that the dehumidifier is drawing power from the shore source and not from the batteries. My gut tells me that the increased draw is from the Xantrex itself. The unit turns on automatically when the trailer is plugged into an AC source so I'm guessing that the power supplying the unit itself is drawing directly from the 12v system. Does anyone know if I'm on the right track? GAP
  3. Fascinating subject and lots of out of the box brain work going on here. We picked up our L II in December and did quite a bit of dry winter camping at various ski resorts over the season. Temps going down to single digits on multiple nights and staying well below freezing on most days. Our routine was to keep the trailer winterized, run the heater, carry a back up (Mr Buddy or small box heater) and, for water, we carried two 1 gallon soft sided BPA free CANTEENS, a 7 gallon storage container with spigot like THIS and run that water through a Brita type filter before drinking or filling the canteens. Did a few freezing days/nights with water system fully activated but was concerned about the exterior shower vulnerability. We constantly monitored various areas with temps sensors and had some interesting take aways: - We lightly insulated (w/reflectex) the outside shower door. Love the idea of memory foam. Hung a temp sensor as close to the outside as possible under the streetside bed. We keep the cabin temps in the low 60s and, even in single digit weather, it never got colder than the high 50s. The plan is to put in cut off valves before next winter, once we figure out how exactly to get that done - All other areas seemed to stay plenty warm enough, while using the on board heater, to keep the water system live during winter trips. The bathroom does get chilly so are going to follow the smart suggestion to cut a vent over the door to allow better circulation in there. - Covered the vented door to the battery compartment with reflectex. We have lithiums that are happy to discharge semi efficiently down to zero but will only take a charge if above freezing. It stayed surprisingly warm in there, never dropping below the high 50s. - We bought a roll over "double bubble' reflectex off Amazon and made insulators for all the windows. Two layers thick joined together with the foil refectex tape. Amazon, Lowes, Home Depot are all good sources. They hold in place.nicely by closing the solid blinds. Made similar for window in the door by enclosing a layer of 1.5" foam in reflextex. Held in place by the screen door. Bought a 14"x14" Camco insulated vent insert and hold it in place with a plexi 19x19 vent cover that we ordered through Home Depot. This would cover the max air fan and is easy enough to remove. Not sure how much that will get used as we sometimes vent while cooking to minimize condensation. - We really need to see what it takes to keep all the compartment areas warm enough if using a back up heater. I suspect lids to lower compartments would need to be opened and a fan places strategically in one of them. - Our biggest challenge is in figuring out how to travel in winter temps with a non winterized trailer. While internal temps hold well on a stationary trailer, our concern is the effects of wind chill carrying away heat. While we aren't shy about traveling with the propane heater working, we aren't sure without experimenting if it will be enough. I suspect that if all the streetside compartments are left open and the bathroom has the additional vent, all should be good.
  4. Hey NCeagle, I never did ask directly why the techs thought using #26 to turn off the charging aspect of the inverter/charger was a bad idea. The first tech I spoke to suggested it and it worked so I never felt compelled to dig much deeper. That said, I did challenge one of the techs by pointing out the contradiction and he had no answer. I'm with you - if it works, why not do it? Hasen't seemed to hurt anything. I just ordered a dehumidifier today and plan on leaving that plugged in up until the late fall. To run it and a fan to circulate air around the cabin and open compartments, I plan on leaving the Oliver plugged in that entire time. There is no way I would want the charger to be continuously topping off the batteries for that long.
  5. Great and greatly complicated topic for sure. Hull #701 (I think). Lithium, 3000xc Pro Inverter, Honda 2200i Generator. - SteveCr: From talking to Xantrex, it was explained that the unit will focus on draw before charging. In short, if there is a draw on the inverter such as air conditioner, this will be fed first with left over power (if any) channelling to the charger. I recently noticed that when the AC would cycle down after achieving the temp set on the thermostat, the charger would kick on to full bulk rate. When the AC was cooling, the charger was running at a trickle. May have been effected by battery charging needs but the change in charge rate seemed to be tied into the AC draw. - NCeagle's approach to setting #26 to "off" to prevent continual charging of lithiums, which in the long term is a bad thing, works but, in asking the same questions to 4 different techs at Xantrex, 3 said that approach would either not work or is not suggested. The one tech that suggested that approach thought it was perfectly appropriate. That said, I do use that setting for that purpose if Im going to stay plugged in for multiple days straight such as living on shore power to feed a dehumidifier. From talking to the battery manufacturer, it is not bad for the lithiums to be on continual charge except over a long period of time. - For those of us using a Honda 2200i on gas, I've found that you can set the charge rate (#28) to 15amps with no problems. Watts (1800 which is the running wattage per Honda) divided by Volts (120v) = Amps (15a)
  6. Story with a happy ending so that's great. In our case, a tech from Xantrex walked us through the analysis of the inverter itself and the remote panel. While our trailer was brandy new in December, both the inverter and panel were a couple of updates behind. The tech emailed firmware and instructions. Took another call for some handholding but all is good. We are three days into a trip and with no problems. It too some time resolving the Xantrex issues but Jason stuck with us and shared a few great ideas and insights along the way. The folks at Xantrex were also super helpful. They helped me figure out how to reset my charge rate to reflect source. I had been having problems when using the inverter on sources other than 30a service including household 20a and my 2000i generator. The Xantrex tech talked my through how to adjust the inverter demand depending on available amperage at the source so 15a for 15a household circuit, 20a for 20a circuit, 18a for little generator, 30a at campgrounds.... They also assisted in setting up specific to lithium batteries: New bulk and float charge rates and an auto cut off at 10% battery vs 50% for AGM. These units ship with factory presets that assume certain conditions (plugging into a 30a circuit and using AGM batteries) so it is worthwhile to figure out how to tweak to reflect how it is actually to be used.
  7. Sounds feel like we have a (loud) ticking time bomb temporarily cooling the trailer. Oh well, hopefully the inevitable retrofit is easy. Thanks much on the information.
  8. Rounding back on this old subject. I'm interested in installing the EZE Gutter on my E2. Have never done it before. As far as placement goes, do you place the gutter right up against the sealed edge of the window frame? If so, if the window requires resealing, is it neccessary to remove the gutter material to allow space to remove and reapply the window frame sealant?
  9. Fluid Film will remain as a high viscosity goo until it absorbs enough dust (or termites) to seal it's outer coat. I spoke to the manufacturer a couple of years back and they stated that the inner layer of film will continue to protect against rust after the outer coating becomes gummy from the dust. Otherwise, the product will eventually wash off from rain. When udercoating my trucks, they actually suggested I drive around on a dry dirt road to help this process along.
  10. So, I figured out and fixed the problem with the air conditioner. Turns out that the bolt I found came off of one of the two forward facing motor mounts. This allowed the motor to twist a bit and had the front impeller scraping slightly against part of the plastic AC housing. The noise was super loud when we first heard it and "clanky" which was probably the impeller scraping the head of the bolt that sat loose, under the blades. Looks like no damage done. Reinstalled the bolt and added a nut with a little loctite to both the screw ends so they could not shake their way loose again. The bolts screw through a rubber doughnut style mount with nothing to hold them in place so I am betting I'm not the only one who has had this problem. Still plenty loud but that must be the native noise that always comes out of these units.
  11. I feel Csevel's pain for sure. While I have not had a leak to deal with, my 2021 E2 has been keeping me busy since picking it up last December. Off the top of my head the issues I've dealt with includes: 1) tank sensor fell off fresh water tank, 2) malfunctioning heat pad for lithium batteries (still to be replaced), 3) Xantrex was set to AGM batteries instead of the lithium package I had causing multiple issues 4) radio/tv anteana was not attached to mast correctly so fell off while driving, 5) leaky pex connectors under curb side bed - connections were way too loose 6) exterior LP leak (still to be tracked down), 7) Xantrex remote ongoing panel warning 20 issue, 8) no pressure in the water pressure tank, 9) super loud and clanky air conditioner - loose bolt found just below the impeller, 10) fridge could not get cold enough to function - sensor placed in wrong position, 11) faulty board in Maxair fan, 12) loose nuts attaching solar panels. I'm fairly sure I've forgotten a couple more. This is my first trailer and I appreciate that complex systems in bouncy conditions (trucks, trailers, boats, space station, etc...) are prone to shake related malfunctions but most of the problems I've had seem to be of other sources. Upside is I'm learning the systems in combat conditions. Downside is, I'd rather be camping. Question to you more seasoned Oliver-ites: Does this seem like an excessive list for a trailer that is just 6 months old? However you cut it, this stuff is a pain in the ass but has not yet cut a trip short or forced us to loose the camper to a service center. We love having our Oliver but wish it would be less of a ongoing maintenance issue.
  12. I pulled the shroud today and, sadly, no birds or bees in there. There is an insulated cover inside and a plastic housing above the impeller that blows air into the trailer. Didn't have a chance to dig too deep but looks like part #33 from john's diagram, may be rubbing Slightly against something. Also found a 2" bolt laying loose in that area. May be at the heart of the problem. Will get out again and do some more analytical digging. Will take Russel's wise words into consideration and pick up some sort of cover for the unit to minimize the chance of critter infiltration. Am also going to take Overland's suggestion and see if I can figure the problem from inside the trailer.
  13. John, as always, thanks so much for the support. Great info. I have had a ton of issues involving a few systems supplied by third parties. Fridge, inverter, water pressure tank, antenna, heat pad for lithium batteries, Maxair fan, etc... All were fairly simple to work through and I dealt with each issue by contacting manufacturer directly. Have found it is the path of least resistance on a number of levels. Sometimes feel like having a new Mercedes but having to reach out to Jensen on a problem with the radio. As this is my first trailer, my assumption this is just what it takes to tweak in all the different systems on a new unit. I've often thought that it would be handy for Oliver to supply all model numbers and serial numbers to help facilitate the process.
  14. We have an E2, hull # 701.picked up in mid December. Just trying our air conditioner for the first real test. As soon as it started up, we could hear what sounded like the impeller was in contact with something that caused a loud noise. Seems like the blades are still turning but contacting something they are not supposed to be hitting. I looked at the AC material supplied by Oliver but there is no model ID info. I tried to call the company directly but their initial phone message stated that customers needing tech support need to have the model and serial number. - does anyone know where to find that information? - has anyone had a similar issue and, if so, how did you deal with it? We are happy to open the housing to see what there is to see. Hopefully an easy fix but not sure whether to lift the shroud from the top of the camper or if there is a way to see the guts from inside.
  15. The vent under the galley is supposed to allow for manual adjustment. One of the fins on ours was out of true so Jason from the shop told us how to realign. Basically, you stick a finger through the outer grate and pull as it is meant to just pop off. The vents were easy to pop back in their tracks after. We have closed ours entirely and turned to rear vent to blow air towards the galley. Plenty warm to fill the cabin. This allows more heat to make it to the bathroom
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