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  1. I do have the Honda 2200i. Great generator but... Were I to do it all over again, I'd get one like the Yamaha shown above. The Honda will run the air conditioning all day long with no problem but it was a pricey unit and requires a pricey conversion kit to run off propane. Carrying a small gas can and that generator takes up as much space and probably weighs not much less then the Yamaha dual fuel. That unit can run off propane when appropriate (lower altitudes) without the stink of the gas can.
  2. Late to respond here but to answer your question directly - yes, the 2200 does require a "neutral ground plug". I use a cube tap (available at any hardware store and in attached file through Amazon) into one of the 20amp plugs, where I can plug in both the 20a to 30a cord adapter to the trailer and the neutral ground plug
  3. What about ti8re pressure for E2s? I have the stock tires which are Cooper Discover HT3s, LT 225 75R16. I looked on line and at the card both stating max PSI is 80lbs which is what it was when picked up from Oliver. The on line chart suggested PSI by weight which seemed to infer that these tires should be inflated to 40psi if used on a dual axle with each tire carrying 1500lbs which is both accurate and unnecessarily complicated. I had found that the 80lbs inflation ride was stiff and bouncy so had already decreased to 60lbs which seemed to track better and was less stiff. The recommended 40psi seems too low to me but I may give it a go as an experiment. Any of you folks have thoughts on this?
  4. We've had a composting toilet since pick up in December. Love it. Watched the you tube videos before and learned from other's mistakes so has been issue free. We bought a spare blower from the company just in case of a potential break down and it would be super easy to instal while on travel. If you follow the recommendations on their site, there is no smell at all. The fan actually serves to lear the air "live" so no need to put warning tape across the bathroom door after usage. Our medium has not been changed in a few months now even though it's seen a lot of use. We usually go a couple of weeks between trips and, once home, unplug the fan after a couple of days so the medium does not dry out. The organic matter digests over those two weeks and it is all ready for further usage. Truthfully, we can't tell how long we can continue with this cycle as, so far, there is no increased smell. That said, we don't put toilet paper or wipes in the container. Keep a tiny, lidded, foot operated garbage pale between the toilet and sink and use our old deli meat zip locks for that material. throwing the bag out every 2-3 day and, no smell even in how weather. We also carry a spare pee bottle with cap. Never had a reason but if we needed to store a full bottle (mabey to wait out bad weather?) we could leave a full bottle with cap waiting outside till it was convenient to empty. Even while emptying the bottle, I've noticed very little smell. Certainly not as much as you would expect to encounter in a bathouse or, for that matter, in many RV bathrooms with flushers. I agree with using a bucket being a good solution for vomit. Would probably do the same if we had a flush toilet. Concerning diarrhea, I've been down that road and it was no problem at all. The inside of the bowl is super slick so we never clean with anything other then a wipe. Any over spray, were it to occur, could be spritzed off using the same spray bottle of vinegar mix used after peeing.
  5. Great info Mike. Sounds like a good routine and safe enough to get through a tire rotation. Thanks much Gerry
  6. It's time to rotate the tires on my Elite 2. Was wondering if anyone has successfully used the rear stabilizers for this purpose? Oliver suggests doing that operation with jacks which, I assume would mean jacking up both axels on each side and lowering onto jack stands. Sounds like a lot of work. During our delivery day debrief, it was suggested not to use stabalizers to lift the trailer due to potential aluminium frame bending concerns.
  7. I was under the impression that the stabilizers were not suggested for this. Oliver pick up day briefing was when I first heard as much. I am looking to rotate my tires and would love to use the stabilizers to get it done. Problem is, I'd have to do both sides at the same time. Assuming I put 6" blocks under the stabalizers and do adequate equivalent to chocking (mabey leaving the unit hitched to TV with E brake set and wheels chocked) does this seem prudent?
  8. I appreciate arguments on both sides of this issue but, that said, since picking up our E2 in December, I've had 13 issues involving 6 of the after market products. Of these only two could be fully resolved with the help of Oliver and all the rest required at least one call to the manufacturer. While Oliver has been exemplary (Jason in particular) in making themselves available to assist, there is only so much they can accomplish over the phone. Considering Oliver has one location, it does seem like a prudent and minimal effort to share this information up front. Almost every manufacturer I've sought assistance from asked for these particulars and, in some cases, such as the MaxAir Fan or Dometic AC, I've had to do a certain level of surgery, following their directions, to even find where the tags are located. Much more humane for Oliver to do at the time of instal than it is for me to do, standing on the roof, with a phone in one hand and tools in the other.
  9. I'm a bit confused as to the intend of #28. In dealing with the folks at Xantrex, they've explained that the units will always prioritize appliance demand over charging. For example, when I use my air conditioner, there is very little power, if any, flowing to the batteries. Is 28 intended to set a limit so the inverter/ charger won't try to feed an appliance and bulk charge the batteries at the same time? I may be doing it wrong but I've always set #28 to reflect the available "grid" power so I set it to 15amps when on a 15a circuit, 30amp when at a campground with 30a service, 18a when using my Honda 2200i, etc...
  10. While not on the road, i've recently started keeping my Elite 2 plugged in to power a dehumidifier. As I did not want to have the charger constantly topping off the lithium batteries Per manufacturer's suggestion), I went to #26 in the Xantrex menu and set to Auto which disables the charger but still allows incoming for AC power for 110v devices such as the dehumidifier. After about a week, I noticed that my two 200ah lithiums had drained down about 25% which is way way more then the normal parasitic draw would account for - LP/carbon monoxide detector, lights on the stereo display, etc... In checking the Xantrex display, I can clearly see that the dehumidifier is drawing power from the shore source and not from the batteries. My gut tells me that the increased draw is from the Xantrex itself. The unit turns on automatically when the trailer is plugged into an AC source so I'm guessing that the power supplying the unit itself is drawing directly from the 12v system. Does anyone know if I'm on the right track? GAP
  11. Fascinating subject and lots of out of the box brain work going on here. We picked up our L II in December and did quite a bit of dry winter camping at various ski resorts over the season. Temps going down to single digits on multiple nights and staying well below freezing on most days. Our routine was to keep the trailer winterized, run the heater, carry a back up (Mr Buddy or small box heater) and, for water, we carried two 1 gallon soft sided BPA free CANTEENS, a 7 gallon storage container with spigot like THIS and run that water through a Brita type filter before drinking or filling the canteens. Did a few freezing days/nights with water system fully activated but was concerned about the exterior shower vulnerability. We constantly monitored various areas with temps sensors and had some interesting take aways: - We lightly insulated (w/reflectex) the outside shower door. Love the idea of memory foam. Hung a temp sensor as close to the outside as possible under the streetside bed. We keep the cabin temps in the low 60s and, even in single digit weather, it never got colder than the high 50s. The plan is to put in cut off valves before next winter, once we figure out how exactly to get that done - All other areas seemed to stay plenty warm enough, while using the on board heater, to keep the water system live during winter trips. The bathroom does get chilly so are going to follow the smart suggestion to cut a vent over the door to allow better circulation in there. - Covered the vented door to the battery compartment with reflectex. We have lithiums that are happy to discharge semi efficiently down to zero but will only take a charge if above freezing. It stayed surprisingly warm in there, never dropping below the high 50s. - We bought a roll over "double bubble' reflectex off Amazon and made insulators for all the windows. Two layers thick joined together with the foil refectex tape. Amazon, Lowes, Home Depot are all good sources. They hold in place.nicely by closing the solid blinds. Made similar for window in the door by enclosing a layer of 1.5" foam in reflextex. Held in place by the screen door. Bought a 14"x14" Camco insulated vent insert and hold it in place with a plexi 19x19 vent cover that we ordered through Home Depot. This would cover the max air fan and is easy enough to remove. Not sure how much that will get used as we sometimes vent while cooking to minimize condensation. - We really need to see what it takes to keep all the compartment areas warm enough if using a back up heater. I suspect lids to lower compartments would need to be opened and a fan places strategically in one of them. - Our biggest challenge is in figuring out how to travel in winter temps with a non winterized trailer. While internal temps hold well on a stationary trailer, our concern is the effects of wind chill carrying away heat. While we aren't shy about traveling with the propane heater working, we aren't sure without experimenting if it will be enough. I suspect that if all the streetside compartments are left open and the bathroom has the additional vent, all should be good.
  12. Hey NCeagle, I never did ask directly why the techs thought using #26 to turn off the charging aspect of the inverter/charger was a bad idea. The first tech I spoke to suggested it and it worked so I never felt compelled to dig much deeper. That said, I did challenge one of the techs by pointing out the contradiction and he had no answer. I'm with you - if it works, why not do it? Hasen't seemed to hurt anything. I just ordered a dehumidifier today and plan on leaving that plugged in up until the late fall. To run it and a fan to circulate air around the cabin and open compartments, I plan on leaving the Oliver plugged in that entire time. There is no way I would want the charger to be continuously topping off the batteries for that long.
  13. Great and greatly complicated topic for sure. Hull #701 (I think). Lithium, 3000xc Pro Inverter, Honda 2200i Generator. - SteveCr: From talking to Xantrex, it was explained that the unit will focus on draw before charging. In short, if there is a draw on the inverter such as air conditioner, this will be fed first with left over power (if any) channelling to the charger. I recently noticed that when the AC would cycle down after achieving the temp set on the thermostat, the charger would kick on to full bulk rate. When the AC was cooling, the charger was running at a trickle. May have been effected by battery charging needs but the change in charge rate seemed to be tied into the AC draw. - NCeagle's approach to setting #26 to "off" to prevent continual charging of lithiums, which in the long term is a bad thing, works but, in asking the same questions to 4 different techs at Xantrex, 3 said that approach would either not work or is not suggested. The one tech that suggested that approach thought it was perfectly appropriate. That said, I do use that setting for that purpose if Im going to stay plugged in for multiple days straight such as living on shore power to feed a dehumidifier. From talking to the battery manufacturer, it is not bad for the lithiums to be on continual charge except over a long period of time. - For those of us using a Honda 2200i on gas, I've found that you can set the charge rate (#28) to 15amps with no problems. Watts (1800 which is the running wattage per Honda) divided by Volts (120v) = Amps (15a)
  14. Story with a happy ending so that's great. In our case, a tech from Xantrex walked us through the analysis of the inverter itself and the remote panel. While our trailer was brandy new in December, both the inverter and panel were a couple of updates behind. The tech emailed firmware and instructions. Took another call for some handholding but all is good. We are three days into a trip and with no problems. It too some time resolving the Xantrex issues but Jason stuck with us and shared a few great ideas and insights along the way. The folks at Xantrex were also super helpful. They helped me figure out how to reset my charge rate to reflect source. I had been having problems when using the inverter on sources other than 30a service including household 20a and my 2000i generator. The Xantrex tech talked my through how to adjust the inverter demand depending on available amperage at the source so 15a for 15a household circuit, 20a for 20a circuit, 18a for little generator, 30a at campgrounds.... They also assisted in setting up specific to lithium batteries: New bulk and float charge rates and an auto cut off at 10% battery vs 50% for AGM. These units ship with factory presets that assume certain conditions (plugging into a 30a circuit and using AGM batteries) so it is worthwhile to figure out how to tweak to reflect how it is actually to be used.
  15. Sounds feel like we have a (loud) ticking time bomb temporarily cooling the trailer. Oh well, hopefully the inevitable retrofit is easy. Thanks much on the information.
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