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  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
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    Legacy Elite II
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    Standard Floor Plan

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  1. Hi Steph and Dud B, Thanks for the reminder about the roof vent. I’ve tried cracking windows, and it doesn’t resolve the leaky window. You are absolutely right about the furnace. I am well aware of that. I do wish I could get that repaired. I hope a savvy repair person shows up, bc I am unable to drive to TN at present. The plumbing issue is a separate issue that only occurs when I am using the pump and the freshwater tank (not on a full hook up). The leak only occurs in the morning, and it is indeed a lot of water that drains inside from under the window. It has not been raining , so it must be condensation, but for some reason, fans, heaters, cracked windows , etc. are not resolving it. I do think the water is coming from outside the window somehow, even though it isn’t raining. Can we post videos in the forum? Thanks for the nice reply Margaret The water is clearly draining from underneath the metal that
  2. I will do so. Right now, I am most concerned about the water that drips down from under the window in rivulets, and that’s what gets the bed wet. I am not sure if that is condensation or not? Is it safe to caulk under the window, or ill advised. Thank you so much for the advice, and I will do my best to keep you posted. Margaret
  3. Thanks Katjo! I think I will open a ticket. I have cracked windows, and it helps with interior condensation, but not for the weird drip under the window that occurs in the morning. Damp Rids and a humidifier are a good idea. I will open the ticket tonight. Problem is, I’m skirted for winter . . . . Margaret
  4. Thank you, Mike and Carol, Ok, so first, are you suggesting running a hose against the window as a diagnostic test to find the window leak? What do you think about caulking underneath the window? I didn’t have any issues with condensation until the nights got really cold (think Winter). I was happy with the lack of condensation. However, when temps hit 20, as they regularly do after sunset, the fiberglass gets really cold, even on the inside. It may be that my inability to use the furnace contributes to that, but yes, I am running an electric heater. I still don’t know if the window leak is from condensation, or what it is. I am surmising it comes from dew or condensation outside, since the water is coming from outside. I think opening the vents is a good idea. As for the RV techs, I think they just aren’t doing what they’re supposed to be doing. I went to a fancy place in Denver, and they blamed the freshwater leak on me. They said I wasn’t keeping the camper level enough, and other such nonsense. They were condescending and dismissive (kind of like doctors sometimes are), so enough of that . . . . I think your suggestions for locating a leak are good. I’m pretty sure the leak only occurs when I’m using the pump and freshwater tank, not when I’m using city water and a hook up. I did have the propane leak looked at. The first guy , who is a friend with a Box truck conversion, used soapy water, and didn’t find anything. The second guy, who was an actual tech, found Mud Dauber’s nests in the furnace (likely from the camper’s original Texas home), so he supposedly cut off gas access to the furnace, and was going to order a new furnace, but said I could keep the propane on for cooking. However, after he left, both the propane monitor and my stand alone monitor started beeping like crazy, and the tanks emptied out. So now I’m not sure if I should continue using him or not. I will try electricians and propane companies. Those are good ideas. The trailer is no longer under warranty, but I could open a ticket with Oliver. I am not in a position, however, to take a lot of long drives, and my camper is skirted at present. I will edit my post , and add my location. Thanks again, Margaret
  5. Hi there, My window is leaking quite a bit of water out of the bottom , under the metal strip. This happens every morning after a cold night, when the sun hits the window in the morning. Three of my windows have leaked when it rains, and I cleaned all the weep holes and tracks, but it has not rained since I cleaned the tracks, so I don’t know if rain is still an issue. This is specifically an issue with some type of condensation or humidity coming in from the outside after a cold night, when the sun comes up and warms the window. I am in a micro climate (high desert in CO) in which winter nights can be well below freezing (single digits or less at times), while days can be quite warm, and temps can rise into the 40s. The location is an arid high valley surrounded by very high mountains on all sides, so the mountains create a protective barrier. All of this creates a big difference between cold nights and warmer days. Every morning, my bed gets wet, not good when you have mold sensitivities. So this is specifically an issue with some type of condensation or humidity coming in from the outside after a cold night, when the sun comes up and warms the window, see pic. I tried cracking the window during the night, but this does not solve the problem. The Oliver windows are tricky, so I don’t know how to prevent the leak, because I have been told not to apply sealant (??) though my inclination would be to caulk the inside edge (?) What else can I do? Brief rant alert: I spent a big chunk of my savings when I bought this Oliver, but she has been a 🍋. 😭😭😭 The windows have leaked, there has been a leak between the hulls whenever I use fresh water, with water coming out of the clam shell openings in the bottom, and I have had a significant gas leak, and cannot use the furnace or stove at present. There is a problem with the electrical circuit, where fuses are blowing, and my newly replaced battery never shows an adequate charge. Now, the bathroom fan no longer works, and I am having issues with condensation when the fiberglass gets cold (in addition to window leaking). My Oliver isn’t that old, but I feel like I’m living in a leaky boat, unable to use many of the features. The RV techs have not found the source of the fresh water leak, and many of the techs here are busy, and keep bailing on me (combination weird pandemic after effects, and some wonky people in Colorado who tend to take advantage of “tourists.”). Rant over, let’s start with the windows? If any of you live in CO, do you know of any good mobile techs? I am in Buena Vista, CO. Sorry, I think photos uploaded upside down. Thanks, Margaret
  6. Hi Mike, Hi Mike, Doesn’t that depend on the individual furnace?
  7. Hi John, Hi John, So the temperatures are in the 30s and 40s during the day, but much colder at night. The nighttime temperatures can qualify as bitter cold. I am hoping that skirting the camper, which I have not yet done, might help. I could also put a very small, low wattage space heater underneath. My pipes haven’t frozen so far. The lowest temperatures have so far been in the mid- to low 20s at night. However, as Winter proceeds, the temperatures at night can go as low as -10 or -15. Last year, the lowest temperature was -20. I hope You Floridians don’t read this, because I know you’re going to have a heart attack, ha ha! Fortunately, I am used to subzero temps. as far as winterizing, I purchased a heated water hose, wrapped a pipe cable around my sewer hose and insulated it, and I dump a little RV antifreeze into my black water and gray water tanks before I go to bed. My plan is to skirt the camper, and to place a very low wattage heater on a low setting underneath the skirting. Said heater will be propped up with bricks or what have you to prevent tipping over. I could also use one of those chicken House lightbulbs. Thank you , John Margaret I could also use one of those chicken house lightbulbs. Thank you for the reminder to open up the kitchen drawers, the hatches, closets, and bathroom door. Margaret
  8. Oh boy. Aye, there’s the rub, or might be. I am at 8,000 ft. John. I’ve heard that elevation can be a problem in an Oliver, Which doesn’t really make sense to me, because one of the primary things people do with campers is to go camping up in the mountains, with places like Colorado being a big draw, no? So why wouldn’t they make furnaces that could handle elevation? If it’s the propane, I purchased my tanks locally.
  9. Well, that doesn’t sound difficult. I will do so, and report back! Thanks, Mike!
  10. I seem to remember that someone asked where (s)he could find a reliable RV repair person in WA? I have the same question for Colorado. Just about everyone I've tried so far has been a bust. The place I used in Denver was marginally a scam. I did find one good tech, but he is swamped, stressed, and doesn't answer the phone or texts. Ugh, CO during a pandemic. . . . Thanks! Margaret
  11. Hi Mike, How do I check this? I assume I look in the same compartment where plumbing is located? Thank you! Margarwt
  12. Hi John! Thank you for the reply. I do believe there is hot air coming out of the exhaust, but I will check again in the morning, and see how hot it is. My gas stove works, yes, but I'm not sure if the hot water is on gas or electric. As for the fridge, I would have to kill the electricity to see if it reverts to gas. Regulator, pressure adjustment, blockage from insects. I will try to remember those. 40k BTUs is a lot, but yes, it is indeed cold. It isn't that cold tonight, but temps have been in the 20s, and have gone as low as 26. I think I tried using the heater when temps were in the 30s , and it still wasn't reaching set point. I am confused, because I thought this was a four-season trailer? When I had a single-hull Casita, it kept me warm down to zero F, and likely would have kept me warm at Sub-Zero temps. I have looked at the ducts, and they seem fine, but I will examine them more carefully. I have not tried full hot, but I have tried significantly higher temps, and the thing just struggled even more, and was unable to keep up. Yes, it does kind of suck, bc honestly, I have had so many issues with this particular hull. I have had leaking windows, a leaky hull, an A/C that malfunctioned, etc. I was using a Lasko Ceramic heater; I am now using a Vornado. But this will be expensive for me. Electricity is not included here. In addition, I'm not sure if electric heaters are as good at keeping the pipes from freezing? Thank you, John
  13. Hi all, Anyone have an idea why my gas furnace can’t catch up to set point (I.e. temperature set on thermostat)? It blows out warm air, but struggles, and ultimately, the ambient temperature gets colder and colder. I should add that I had a distinct leak. I smelled gas, and the furnace worked as long as I had gas in the tank, but after about four or five days, the furnace would sputter (and have trouble catching up), the stove would die, and I would have to refill my tanks. I also got brand new tanks, just in case. The RV repair guy claims to have fixed the leak (I will know in a few days) by replacing the hoses in the nose where the propane tanks are located, but now the furnace, though it blows warm air, is unable to catch up to thermostat. It gets colder and colder inside. I told the repair guy, and he said he would be back to fix it, but well, you know how that goes. He isn’t answering the phone or his texts. I realize he is swamped with work orders, and his truck has mechanical issues, but that means I have to rely on space heaters that are expensive, and that also don’t adequately heat the space. Thanks, Margaret
  14. Yes, Patriot, That's very helpful, actually. Where can I get compressed air? My Oliver is going to a repair shop on Monday, so I imagine they can do it there. Thank you, Patriot
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