RoadKingsofGA
-
Posts
27 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Posts posted by RoadKingsofGA
-
-
On 11/21/2022 at 12:24 PM, JWalmsley said:
View the 2020 All Jensen TV, Jensen Radio & Antenna below.
The post 2020 Jensen TV, Jensen Radio & Antenna appeared first on Oliver Travel Trailers.
The links don’t go to anything anymore.
-
1
-
-
On 5/22/2023 at 11:45 AM, MAX Burner said:
I wanted to see if you are still happy with this box since install? We need one to contain set-up stuff only as we keep our larger generator in the truck bed.
-
1
-
-
52 minutes ago, John E Davies said:
There is a basic flaw in your reasoning, would a casual thief know that? 😉 A cable lock around a fixed object would make me sleep a little easier.
FYI your awning mounts should have holes drilled as indicated by the arrow, later versions have a great big opening there. Otherwise it will trap water and debris and corrode them. Especially if you have not removed that pesky rubber seal…
John Davies
Spokane WA
True, we could put a long chain out to the dish stand and put a lock thru the foot of it, should we have to place it far away. But even then, a thief who wants it can cut the chain. Would be a hassle for us to then acquire another, but the bad karma the thief gets is worse.
We had heard of others removing the rubber piece, but hadn’t heard of drilling holes in the awning mounts! It’s a real pain keeping that area clean and free of debris. I will have to read on forums about this. Like do we have to remove the awning and what is risk of drilling into the fiberglass if the drill bit slips. -
We liked the idea of mounting the Starlink bracket to the roof as we already owned the short mount from when we mounted it to the fascia board of our house. Mounting to the awning where easy and quick access to install the dish at each campground was our priority. But our 2019 Oliver has a Dometic awning whose bolt pattern is diagonal and the Starlink mounts bolt pattern is vertical. Our solution was to select a 2” wide piece of 4’ stock aluminum at Lowe’s, cut 2 pieces for strength, and drill holes on one end to match Starlink mount and the other end to match the Dometic awning.
1. We began by measuring the clearance needed for the dish to clear the awning when the dish is in stow mode, and length for the drilling of holes on both end. For our application, that length was ? We also ensured the trailer was level before starting.
2. Next we used cardboard to make a template to cut and drill the hole patterns. I am sure others may find a better way to do this, but we put dark powder on the bolts and then pressed the cardboard to them using a level on the cardboard to ensure it was straight. (We also visually assessed that it appeared perpendicular to the awning). We then pre drilled the holes in the cardboard and did a test run. NOTE: it took us at least 3 cardboard attempts before we got it right!
3. Now we transferred the template to the metal pieces. We actually drilled the awning pattern on one end of the 4’ aluminum piece before we cut the short lengths. This was in case we messed up, we would only lose a short 2” piece rather than our planned 8” lengths. We mounted the long piece to the awning, but the upper hole was slightly off, so we had to wallow that hole slightly larger, but that did not impact securing it. We cut our length and drilled the Starlink holes. We repeated this process for the second piece.
4. We purchased stainless steel bolts, washers and lock nuts for the Starlink end. So we stacked the 2 aluminum plates and installed. The direction we chose for the Starlink mount was to make it easier to see and plug in the router cable to the dish when we put it up there. NOTE: the awning bolts had been cutoff and threads were damaged so the nuts wouldn’t come off easily on the rear awning bolt set. Thus we had to use the set forward of those.
5. We have traveled at 65mph and it doesn’t seem to move and remains secure.
6. Like others, we bring the 4 legged dish mount/anchor and use it if we are under trees and need to move the dish 50’ away from the camper. We aren’t concerned about theft of the dish as it cannot be used by anyone else. Each dish is specific to the owner’s account. For interest, I am including a picture of our Husky storage box and how we pack it. We use a Cord-Pro to wrangle the 75’ router cord to prevent tangling. I also notched a Tupperware to protect the cord plug end that goes in the dish. It can be delicate and damaged easily.
7. We current put the cord thru the basement door and plug into the router via the trap door at the bottom of the bedside table (we have twins. The basement door has a notch in the rubber seal where the cord fits and allows us to close and lock the door without pinching the cord. Eventually we plan to convert the satellite port.
Please ask questions, we would be happy to answer.
-
1
-
6
-
-
Well, I was so inspired by your video, I went right out this morning to clean ours. I gathered my wand sprayer, flathead screw driver, rags, pip cleaners, etc. I first pulled the white rubber gasket, then found the cut place of the black track and began to pry it up...lots of cracking and tearing sounds. I could barely raise it a bit. I pulled out past the furry inset. So we stopped and forced it back down. It seems very brittle and is tearing up rather than pulling out. This is the second time we've tried this. Same results. I'll just keep the dirty window tracks. :)
-
1
-
1
-
-
On 4/2/2023 at 10:44 PM, Steve Morris said:
Roll-up solar panels work great on the Webb space telescope, so should work on an awning. 😁
Funny that Mossey showed the sliding solar extensions, as I was already going to see if something like that would work on ours. A fellow Hiker trailer owner did something similar. Not extensions to existing panels, but hidden panels that slid out from under his roof top tent. They worked great!
I follow Escape pages and I like mods done by Johnny Hung. He made a few with solar panels that slide out from back and both sides. Not only do they provide more solar power, but they act as exterior shades over the windows.
-
6
-
-
Thanks Frank! I am glad to hear this! Our white seals have shrunk (2019 E2 #550) and after reading about them on the forums and FB, I have an order prepared with Pelland and before I hit enter, I wanted to find out if streaking was an issue or not. Soe responses were confusing as contributors indicated Oliver switched to white due to streaking, others said that was not true. I will assume streaking is not to be an issue. Next summer I will tackle gutters (when it's warmer).
-
Of those who switched from white to black, have you had any issues with streaking?
-
- I was glad to find this post as we want a foam mattress but having trouble finding one we can cut without it containing loose fiberglass which will fly everywhere! I began searching online and found that Sam's Club sells these for $449 Queen. Can't wait to try this! Thank you!
-
3
-
On 7/14/2022 at 6:24 PM, Mike and Carol said:
We had AGMs for almost 6 years. Always had it plugged in to shore power when stored (covered spot). No issues. I now have lithiums and don’t plug into shore power but have a battery cut off switch that I turn off when in storage. Mike
Did you add a battery cut off switch or did it come on it?
-
On 7/6/2022 at 2:19 PM, mossemi said:
So how is Uga doing this summer?
Mossey
Always growing and improving! I think they are about to complete a new STEM building behind the IT area where I worked. It’s a beautiful campus. Now if you are asking how the Dawgs are looking for the upcoming season, we’ll, that’s out of my area of knowledge. 😁
-
21 hours ago, dewdev said:
Congratulations on your new to you Oliver. Welcome to the Oliver Owner's forum.
You will have lots of fun in retirement with King’s Ransom.
Where is home base?
Thank you! Home base is Athens, GA
-
2
-
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Like so many, I have been researching and watching Olivers for many years. I knew it would be my dream retirement trailer if the right one could be found. As someone else said, persistence and effort finally paid off! Hull 550 is now ours after a 6 hour drive and patience!! We are thrilled and already took a short shakedown! While it’s not our first camper we do have much to learn about solar! Looking forward to connecting with other Oliver owners!
Jenna and Barry
2019 Elite II Hull 550 ‘King’s Ransom’
2019 Ram 1500 Big Horn
-
14
-
1
-
1
-
On 6/5/2022 at 12:15 PM, Trainman said:
I had a similar problem camping this last week, we plugged into the camp 30amp outlet as we normally do, turned on the A/C and the set the water heater to electric, this is what we normally do. I do not use a surge protector at the post only the one in the trailer is being used, I've always done it that way. The A/C worked as normal, but when I turned on the water heater to electric it started kicking the system off and resetting every 30 seconds or so. I then checked all the hookups and all seemed to be correct as well as power at the post was always there and it never kicked the breaker. Since this has never happened before I started the process of turning off things to see if there was an overload somewhere and the water heater was the first to be turned off and the A/C unit left on an all worked fine with the water heater off. I'm now think the park system is not giving me the full AMPS I need to run both as the A/C and the water heater are probably the largest draw of the voltage. I switched the water to propane and all worked fine for the rest of our stay. When I got home I hooked up to our shore power and all worked just fine with the A/C and water heater on electric as it normally should be, my feeling is the camping power at the post was not putting out the needed AMPS to power what it should power, what do you think happened and should I have a meter to check post output when I hookup. I assume that if I would have had a 50amp option at the post II could have used my adaptor and had the power I need, but I didn't.
trainman
It’s true that campgrounds can experience low amps at the power pole which is just as dangerous as a power surge. But I thought most protectors would flip your power off due to low amps. My Hugh’s Watchdog will cut my power when that happens, reset once power is back to 30amp.
-
On 3/12/2022 at 10:52 AM, John Welte said:
I saw a Bluetooth leveling aid that a person can mount in the trailer once the trailer has been leveled so that each time you're getting your trailer leveled at new sites, you just watch the monitor and know when to stop riding up on the Anderson levelers. That seemed to be a good idea.
You might be referring to the LevelMate Pro. I has this on my previous trailer and really like it. A small device is mounted in the trailer and when turned on, connects to an app on your phone. The app presents a visual of your trailer indicating which side or end is unlevel and by how much (inches). I could sit in the truck and back or pull forward onto curved lifts and watch the app adjust as the trailer moved. When leveled at 0” it also turns from red to green as visual signal.
-
1
-
-
My price point puts me in the market for a used Oliver (meaning that’s what I can afford). Now that Oliver’s appear on NADA, the valuation seems to be $10k less confusing Han current selling prices (as of March 2022). Are used Oliver Price’s currently inflated. Or do you feel they are going to hold to the current valuation in 2, 3, 4+ years down the road?
-
On 3/1/2021 at 3:40 PM, Mike and Carol said:
Larry, glad to hear your Ollie is on the way!
We don’t use the Andersen levelers, but understand that they work well. If the gear package includes some kind of block for under the jacks, you should be good to go.
I would recommend a water filter. The blue Camco filter works well. I recently got a Culligan cartridge type filter that seems to be pretty good too, it’s a little more work and I still carry a blue Camco! The water gauge that Bill mentions above is what we use. It is adjustable.
We don’t have the on board surge protector so we use the kind that plugs into the power pole. It tests the circuit before allowing a connection. We also carry a GFI tester.
We have both a 30 to 15 and a 50 to 30 adapter. In 5 years I’ve used the 50 to 30 twice, once due to a flaky 30a plug on the power pole and once because a 50a plug was the only plug on the power pole. There is probably not a rush to get one, but the 30 to 15 will get more use.
We have a sewer hose support, I think it is called a Sidewinder by Camco. I use it about half the time I have a sewer connection, especially when the dump hole is a bit elevated. You want a straight downhill path for your black and gray fluids to travel, if not you end up having to lift the hose.
I also have a Zero G fresh water hose. It is easier to handle in cool/cold weather.
Good luck! Mike
Mike, What external type surge protector do you use? We want one as additional precaution, and use it to fry/sacrifice at the power pole rather than our camper's unit.
thanks,
Jenna
Starlink dish mount on Dometic awning brackets
in Ollie Modifications
Posted
Thanks! I re-read my post and it could use some editorial corrections! We can't take credit for the bike rack mount. It was put on by the previous owner to solve the issue of needing a 2" receiver. It's certainly stable as it's well bolted! I can add pictures of that if you would like. I believe it had it custom fabricated and painted or powder coated. We added O-ring screws at the corners to allow us to tie down gas cans when we carry them.