Sam Heumann

Thanks for that information, I've taken note of your winter storage configuration, Our mattresses are on order and should be here in a couple of weeks. I've been playing with the fit of the HyperVent with the existing cushions....boy is this stuff stiff. Wrapping up the sides is ok with the exception of the curved area. I may try some forming of scrap pieces with a heat gun and some small wedge section removal...time will tell.

I've searched the forum for this topic and found references to bedding venting, but nothing relating to actual dimensions and placement. If I missed it, please point me in that direction. I did, however, learn/relearn about the need for providing ventilation while using the heater to help minimize condensation. I just purchased some HyperVent material for our trailer from a marine supply house and am curious as the the configuration of this material as provided by Oliver as well as what configuration others are using. I am surprised at how stiff this material is and also how sharp it can feel. Exposed edges will have to be covered with either its own liner or some other material. Logically, venting the underside of the mattress via vent passages along the head, inner hull sides and foot of the mattress make sense. Placing the HyperVent vertically along the aisle side of the mattress seems to be a comfort issue when making the bed. So my questions are: How far up the sides does the HyperVent go - even with or above the top of the mattress? (again, I'm assuming 3 sides only) Is the base material trimmed away to allow overlap of the liner to cover the harsh base material edge? Did you make any allowances for mattress dimensions for using the Hypervent?

Excellent info, thanks John

All 5 are the same size

Current tires - ST225/75R15. Cool tool for tire/wheel calculations - thanks

rideaduce, We just purchased our 2025 Oliver twin which has the standard 4" vinyl covered foam mattress pads. I've been talking to the folks at Tochta for replacements, with the current choice being their Utopia model. I curious as to which model and thickness you purchased and how you would rate it after having the KTT brand. We're purchasing the Hypervent material for under the mattresses and wonder if the mattress size should have any consideration for it. Tochta quoteed sizing as 29x75 while the physical measurements for the bedding area is 30-1/2 by 76-1/2 (assume this is for Hypervent, sheets, and blanket). Sam

Mike, Thanks - makes sense, stepped approach. Your history and that of others means I can plan this upgrade for awhile in the future. Periodic inspection of the leaf springs is now on my pre and post trip inspection list. I did find out (from another thread on this forum and the Dexter catalog) the D52 on my axle indicated 5200# capacity. The 6 lug hub configuration along with the 5 bolt backing plate confirms this as well......my upgrade just became quite simple. Sam

Thanks for the comments. I'm adding all to my "level" and "towing" mental database. I'm early in the game and each comment/recommendation/opinion make me peel the onion another layer. I am indeed riding on 15" wheels. The eye is quite discerning....looking reasonably level, is indeed critical.

I have been fascinated by what I've read on this forum regarding the D52 3500# axles with 4 leaf Dexter springs.......I just looked at my new purchase....tag you're it. Sounds like this upgrade is inevitable, any suggestions on timing, partial upgrade, spares to carry in the meantime? I'm interested in your thoughts. Sam

Many thanks. Great points. I'll learn and tune with the current trailer suspension and upgrade if needed in the future. My history is 17 years with a single axle Casita Freedom Deluxe (w/bathroom). Tandem axle and Andersen is a learning experience. I will investigate the signature as you suggested - thank you. Sam

Hi Ron, That's why I listed the 19-1/2" dimension......towing at 23-1/2" implies 4" higher or a bow high condition, unless the 23-1/2" is initial trailer coupling height and it settles some with attachment to the tow vehicle and raises some with actuation of the Andersen. I'm making the assumption that any tandem axle trailer manufacturer wants a "level" towed configuration. Thanks for responding. I'm learning. Sam

Bill, thanks. One thing I've picked up on is the strain to both the tow vehicle and trailer via the Andersen in high angle or rough terrain conditions - noted and filed. Sam

We're new Oliver owners, 2025 E2 Hull #1590. We purchased MeriWether in Florida before Christmas and towed it home to Texas, about a 1,200 mile run. TV is a 2025 F-150 PowerBoost with the 5' bed, 4WD and tow package. I've read so many helpful, and sometimes confusing posts on this forum, but I want to reach out for some additional information and yes opinions. I installed an Andersen WDH before the journey, in the configuration I thought was correct. I did use CAT scales for independent weights/distributions as well as with/without the WDH connected. Weights were well within all published weight limits for trailer, TV, TV receiver, etc. My initial observations during the trip were, TV almost level, bow high on the trailer and the rear axle tires ran 5° F warmer than the front axle tires after a couple of hours on the road. The overall towing performance for this trip was acceptable, but I wanted to fine tune the hitch setup.....level the trailer while being towed, optimize the steer axle weight transfer with the WDH, and allow the tailgate to fully open without hitting the top of the Bulldog hitch. Based on the premise the trailer undercarriage should be reasonably level for even loads to the springs, bearings and tires, I began my journey of what does "level" mean to an Oliver E2 and where do you measure it? First stop, the Mothership, tech support indicated - if the bubble on the front jack is level, the Oliver is level (I did try to understand what datums that was tied to, but was unsuccessful). I found a level portion of my driveway, centered the front jack bubble, fore and aft (which I know is adjustable) and measured using various levels, the interior floor, steel undercarriage, exterior seam of the top and bottom halves of the shell, aluminum tongue and frame. All were reasonably consistent and "level". I also measured the distance from the front and back sections of the frame to the driveway and the measurements were within 1/16"....frame parallel to the ground. With a 8' framing level beside the tires, the driveway also indicated level. The Bulldog coupler dimension, where the top of the ball seats, is 19-1/2". I understand as the trailer gets loaded and the TV gets loaded that dimension will change but the other "level datum" locations should help me adjust the WDH, air bags (don't have any yet), as well as redistributing any loads in the TV or trailer to achieve a level trailer towing condition. I have made several adjustments to the hitch height and preload of the weight distribution hitch urethane 2" puck (translated to threads exposed). An interesting point in discussing setup parameters with the Andersen techs, they indicated the towing dimension of the puck should be compressed by 1/8" to 1/4" from the relaxed its state. So here's my question to other owners, does a level trailer (in the towed condition) this really matter?