jd1923

On your knees to connect a hose! 🤣 Sorry, not on my knees. I'm only getting on my knees for necessary repairs under truck or trailer. These make it easier and thanks to @Patriot the Eley connections can be put on and taken off one-handed (off pressure released).

I Good first step and of course don't touch it until you get their answer. If they will not warranty it, I would tape where it's cracked and then add an UV protective loom around it. Do this even if they do replace the wire harness, so the new one won't look the same in another 5 years.

I believe they all are, except for the Aussie Houghton A/C (unless they off-shore their manufacturing like the rest). Atmos German designed, China built.

Issue is bearing the noise until then! If I lived in Florida I would have already installed one.

I'm seeing $1200 with shipping. https://www.amazon.com/TOSOT-Conditioner-Non-Ducted-Rooftop-High-Efficiency/dp/B0CDWR5RP9/ Still less than $1500 total on the Atmos (with $150 shipping, no SoftStart on either). https://www.sdgelkhart.com/product-page/atmos-4-4 I witnessed @Ronbrink's installed Atmos and it was excellent. Still not sure the Tosot is of the same quality. Right now, maybe $300 more on the Atmos to be sure with reputable US rep in SDG. I would love the Greenland inverter A/C that @CRM is also interested in. If I was to learn it is quieter than some reviews show. And I too am waiting another year.

Wow, never thought of this! Maybe our Havoc can get us deeper into a remote boondocking spot! (just kiddin') Havoc.MOV

With our previous RV we kept loading the fire ring and LP tank when camping and when we got home we carried up to our deck (son Adam always did that task for me). After our first Oliver camping trip, having our fire ring in the front generator basket, I decided to leave it there, replace the regulator with a new line to the quick connect. We bought a second fire ring for the deck and left the extra tank up there. I also upgraded the lava rock. I can't stand the cheap/light stuff they include. These are heavier, but all I do is move it a few feet down and plug it in. They conduct the heat and make the fire ring warmer, always on the low fuel setting, and they look far better. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2C7WVN?th=1

Ron, when I zoom into your picture it appears you do not have the OTT optional quick connect for LP. If you did, or installed one with a T-fitting, all you would need is to remove the regulator at the end of the hose (pictured) to your fire ring and replace it with a 1/4" male quick connection. We have a similar fire ring and they are low pressure. We have the optional connection, so I have modified our fire ring and Weber Grill, adding a Y-hose, we easily connect both when needed.

Wow, it's been 3 years since Mike asked this question (before my time), unanswered back then in this older thread from @John E Davies. Although Mike did not get an answer in this particular thread, he certainly knows the answer now. Gary, please allow me to point you to another thread where this was asked/answered more recently. Another Oliver owner @tallmandan started the post below and like you, he has recently worked a LiFePO4 upgrade.😂 See my March 15 comment in the post below, in how to resolve this. @Derek B suggested another method in disconnecting it at the the hitch terminal. Bill @topgun2 suggested in some tow vehicles, you could pull a fuse for this connection. However, professionally speaking the best way is to disconnect it at the Oliver bus. Most of the time, leaving it connected would not cause harm. But if/when your LiFePO4 batteries are low in SOC and connected to the tow vehicle harm could be caused. When towing the smaller 12 AWG wire could overheat if the house batteries were pulling too many amps. When camped and you left the trailer connected to the TV (which I often do for 1-night stays) and the house batteries got very low in SOC (running A/C), they would drain your starter batterie(s) keeping you from starting the engine the next morning.

Well you learn something everyday! Thanks Geoff, for the clarification! So, now if I understand this correctly, the standard regulator, as installed in the Oliver or the grill we have on our deck, runs at 10 PSI. High-pressure regulators, seem most are adjustable, run up to 30 PSI (using fine-thread connections). It appears you need high pressure to operate a burner effectively when outdoors in the elements. Do I have this right? The thing I'm not liking is carrying an extra LP tank, storing it and extra hoses, lugging it it in and out of the truck, even if it is a smaller 5# tank. Also, how long could 5# of LP possibly feed a high-pressure 2-burner cooktop? Then when you go to fill LP you have to bring out the little tank again and ask the attendant to partially fill 2-3 tanks. Seems like a chronic hassle, especially if you cook with the burned regularly. Could a Tee-fitting be installed off your secondary on-board LP tank, connect it to a 0-30 PSI regulator (adjustable through the doghouse hatch) and run a line to a second quick disconnect side-by-side to the OTT installed connection? There are different styles of quick connects that could be used, so not to mix up the low/high pressure connections which would otherwise be dangerous. It may be a bit of work, but for a few hours in installation effort and for about the same $$ in parts, it makes sense to use the onboard 60# of LP and once and for all eliminate the ongoing hassles cited above. Just a thought, though I may add a burner one day! Would help in fair weather camping when we don't have a fore. Maybe a big single like this beast: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF71PPC7

Dan, it's good you noticed this before it got worse. Check out my picture. The two carriage bolts, shiny round heads faced up, go straight down through the frame. Get under your Oliver just behind the wheel well and tighten the two large nuts. If there is a split-ring washer that has lost its spring, replace it. If not use some blue Locktite (not red). Then check the other side as well. Edit: If you find the main jack mounting bolts are tight which is highly possible, then the head of the jack has slipped up off the post. In this case, remove the head (2-3 Allen screws), check the post for vertical markings from it slipping to be certain of cause. Then remount head. Age of your hull, having it out would be a good time to do thorough maintenance. I'm the only one that has worked the complete service and if you will do so, let me know and I will supply the link. In the meantime, do not use your stabilizer jacks.

None of that matters! All the specs again do not matter. With a name like @DanielBoondock you must have dreams of Boondocking after your retirement. Boondocking and an EV truck just don’t fit, like oil water don’t mix. Also, whether you get 500 miles, you’re dreaming, or even 200 miles like the several comments above… Again, this spec doesn’t matter. The question is, do you want to spend every day, or every other day taking a detour just to charge? and wait, and wait… I’d rather fill a tank of diesel and drive 2,3,4 days without care and enjoy our travels. There’s not a National Park, nor state park, or RV park with level I EV chargers. You rig an EV charger and attach to the 30A or 50A service at a campground or RV park. I would call that stealing. It’s just this simple. No physics here, no 0-to-60 in 2 seconds, just the simple realities of travel. We can go 10 days off-grid with 600Ah LiFePO4, 720W solar, 3KW inverter, 32-gal FW in the Oliver and another 35-gal fresh in the truck and the LAST thing in the world we would want is to charge a stupid EV every other day, OMG! 🤣 You will trade in that toy after some real travel, get stuck somewhere without power and resale in EVs is not good, as who wants to get stuck with replacing batteries on a used EV?

Rivets are often used where you need to attach two thin pieces of material that do not have enough meat to thread into, or where you cannot reach a nut behind. Rivets also need very little clearance on the outside and the inside expands nicely behind to hold tight. I use them as needed. Drill the heads off to remove. A 1/4” drill usually works. That said, we have an old hull, no touch lights, controlled by the switch panel, and they are dependable. It looks like @johnwen may have the right answer for you!

Sorry about the condition of your eyes. I can write a half page list of health items, but fortunately my eyes are very good. What I mean by overthinking, it make your TT decision on overall. This is such a detail. I have made 20 mods to ours and I could change out all interior and exterior Courtesy Lights in 2 hours. I purchased an older Oliver at about 60% the cost of new. Then I add to it what we wanted and options are unlimited! We've got to know, what is your choice B alternative? Let us know that and we could give you at least 10 reasons to go Oliver! Maybe you don't want to though since most of us advised do NOT get an EV tow vehicle. That would be a bad mistake as likely going another TT direction would be as well. Best wishes to you. We hope you make the right choice in an Oliver. Of course we all have that certain bias here. I also hope you continue to add value to our wonderful forum. 😂

Yes, Jason and @CRM are correct! Since you like GMC, get the DURAMAX 6.6L TURBO-DIESEL V8 WITH ALLISON 10-SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION! Wish I had an Allison 10-speed with exhaust brake attached to my 24-year-old Cummins! But we do have the Cummins 5.9 Diesel with a tuner for 5 performance fuel settings, economy, towing, etc. and the factory Camper package (rear helper springs like the 3500). The only charge station I've seen in all of Prescott AZ is a couple at the Ford Dealership and I think the Hilton also has a couple! Neither location allows trailers on their lots. And they don't have EV chargers 100 miles from where we normally camp. Honey, can you find the hook-up? The batteries are getting low! 🤣