jd1923

Our old Furrion jumbo heads sure are ugly! Your new iRV62 looks sooooo much better, even with the large faceplate which has a clean look! Excellent work cutting out the plastic sheet plus the aluminum sheet for added strength. The wiring should be the easy part. You're 90% there! 😎

Difficult to find a taller bracket spread 2 3/4" (70mm). But this item gave me an easy quick fix. Brought the light up 1 1/4" taller and no more shadow. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DT7221NZ/?th=1

Many of us envy your annual trip, at least I do! But it's been proven, I just cannot fish! 🤣 How many consecutive Wyoming fishing trips will it be, Bill? (this year included)

Home for the Summer! 🤣 Come see us if your heading one state further West! 😎 Got electric and water for you, free dump station down the street, and lots of great camping around town and in the Prescott NF! (no bighorn sheep though, how cool!)

One exception may be Dan. @DanielBoondock ???

I've pumped from our 35-gal aux tank in the truck about 30 times. Only once it would not pump. My son was using the Oliver and he's new with RV stuff. He kept trying the water. Normally, when we here a first gurgle from the pump, we stop and refill the tank. Yes, when you loose prime, water will not pump regardless of the valve configuration. To fill water that one time, we had to tow to use a pressurized hose. I filled the FWT, then primed from the boondocking port and finally attached the hose to the City Water inlet to prime all faucets, the HWH and toilet. I wanted everything full! Also, we pump often when the truck is attached or at a distance, so I connect the 10 ft plus 25 ft hoses we carry, from truck bed to boondock port. Length of hose has not mattered in our case. However, OTT installs a basic water pump which we replaced with a REMCO US-made variable speed pump, with a little PSI and GPM bump over th OEM pump. 😎

I don't take the room to carry a ladder. With an old metal milk crate, I can reach up to our awning safety strap. Not going on the roof for anything! And for your dipstick and anything in the engine bay or an open truck bed, ya gotta get on of these! Somebody linked this in another post and I bought one. We always put it on our curbside rear truck wheel which allows Chris to climb up and reach in for cooking equipment. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Q8TWI/

This is great, there's more than enough light! Notice there's a shadow on the close section of the truck bed. It's from the deck plate hatch. Those with newer hulls would not have this issue since the hatch is now placed below. The light just needs to be an inch taller. The bracket that comes with the light is so short, it only lifts the light 1/4". I have some ideas for this...

Wow, just a $3,000 upcharge for a few hours labor! 🤣 Sorry @Gliddenwoods I can't help much since we would NOT ever again be without our HIGH-PROFILE Furrion Chill Cube! Its height in condenser and evaporator coils is one thing that makes it so efficient. At 3.25" taller than the Dometic P2 our Oliver measures 9' 8 1/2" tall at the top of our new Chill Cube A/C. It should fit under a 10 ft garage door. You should measure for yourself the true heights of your Oliver on top of the A/C and your garage door opening. I do not believe the advertised height of the Oliver E2 is accurate. Furrion has a low-profile unit, but it's not "whisper quiet" nor variable speed: https://furrion.com/blogs/rv/chill-cube-vs-chill-he-vs-chill-he-low-profile I hate to see anybody go with a Dometic A/C product. OTT doesn't exactly have a proven track record in picking winners in this category!

That's an excellent idea with the switch and 12V right there! You could remove the bubble level (for those of us who use LevelMate) and mount a post light top center.

Finished my install on a front light, but won't be able to see how effective it is until it gets dark tonight (more pics after). My hope is that when the TV is attached, I can unhitch when getting to a campground after dark and see what's stored in the truck bed. I got this Docking Light on the same order as the Porch Lights. https://itcshopnow.com/products/exterior-led-flood-boat-docking-light I used 3M 4950 VHB tape to mount it the the top of the doghouse. There is of course a wire harness, so I drilled into the doghouse but not on top, just behind it where there is room and it's out of sight. I used a 13/64" drill bit which is a hair over the diameter of the wire loom. The picture shows the SAE disconnect wrapped up, only so it could be seen in the photo. Got to have a disconnect to fill the LP tanks. I tapped into the power for the emergency brake which is unfused 12VDC (the brake switch still has a direct connection). Added an inline 2A fuse and a switch in front of the doghouse. Added wire loom and tied up everything. Chose this location for an easy reach from either side, somewhere out of the way, and with a straight line for drilling the hole. The light draws 0.3A and provides 290 LM at 5000 K. Can't wait to see it at night! 😎

It actually looks very good in your pictures, so must look perfect from the ground. Job well done and an excellent detailed write-up! 😎 Too bad OTT doesn't make a small flat area for the bathroom fan in their fiberglass molds (inner and outer hulls). It would make for a better fit and make this job easier on all of us!

I realized I did not take a picture of the installed Rear Porch Light in the daylight so I did that today. I kept the black rubber seal that OTT was removing since they were causing streaks with age. The rubber looks to be good quality, not like the rubber surround on the Furrion 30A receptacles that really streaked badly. If it streaks later I'll simply remove it then, but at this time I didn't want to mess with sealant. If I do add a rear camera, it would be for security purposes while camping vs. having eyes when backing up. I would not mount it rooftop where OTT did, but surface mount something below the OLIVER taillight and above the new Rear Porch Light. We usually have the TV down and the rear window shade closed, so it's not easy to look to the rear. Either way, it will be nice to have light back there when needed. Got my front light done today. Pictures coming soon! 😎

I like what you did Bill, with the rubber and polypropylene spacers. For sure it's filing the angled slot that truly helps the friction and noise in the up down movement. You got yours smooth and straight! Noticing in your pics the step material is coming up in the corners which will soon break off with use. I did a similar job but also sanded down and ceramic coated the aluminum steps and added new 3M Safety Walk 4" Resistant Tape. Our steps still look very good almost 2 years later! 😎

Welcome Brian, looking forward to hearing more re your project(s)! Is it worth it? An extra 100W is a drop in the bucket, although aimed at the sun it is more efficient compared to each 100W on the roof. We added a Victron MPPT 30A SC and the 30-LB Renogy 400W suitcase. I've found almost 2 years later that we rarely use it and should have saved the upgrade $$$. Wish somebody told me this 2 years ago! We move around a bit. I now believe extra solar is for those who want to boondock in one place for a week or longer. And you have to chase the sun all day in moving panels. There is an Oliver owner who sells a machine that rotates the panel, but it's another thing to carry and it only holds one panel. The only guys I see running much solar are the ones that live in their campers, staying the 14-day limit on BLM lands. Since we move around a bit, sometimes just one overnight, most often we stay 3 nights and then "on the road again." In this use case the DC-2-DC charger is a much greater value. We can charge 200 Ah while towing a half day drive. 😎 Our 400W suitcase will not add 200Ah babysitting them all day on the sunniest of days! Here are my two related upgrade links: