Jump to content

jd1923

Member+
  • Posts

    1,866
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    93

jd1923 last won the day on February 14

jd1923 had the most liked content!

7 Followers

My Info

  • Gender or Couple
    Couple
  • Location
    Prescott, AZ

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Hull #
    113
  • Year
    2016
  • Make
    Oliver
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan

Recent Profile Visitors

2,138 profile views

jd1923's Achievements

Grand Master

Grand Master (14/14)

  • One Year In
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • Reacting Well
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

3.3k

Reputation

  1. I prefer Sherry's sentiment over the others. Chris and I do most everything together (except shopping), ever since we met on a tennis court 34 years ago. The next time we met we played together and have not stopped since! 😂
  2. Heated garage in Texas? Money better spent on installing A/C! 😂 We moved to Georgetown in 2006 and bought an old home on a couple of acres which needed serious yardwork. It took me all winter long to clean it up, usually wearing a sweatshirt, hat and gloves. Everyday our next-door neighbor Linda walked 50 yards out to the street to get her mail. She wore a long heavy wool coat, scarf hat and gloves and looked at me like I was crazy. The feeling was mutual! 🤣
  3. Problem is… Now y’all have to take extra good care of it! Camping in our Oliver is like driving an old farm truck. Where a little scratch, a door ding, just doesn’t bother you! 🤣
  4. Thought once to get one of these but reading this and some earlier posts makes me very happy that the 10-year-old keyed lock in our door is still working fine. For me on this one, leave well enough alone, where normally I'm the upgrade type.
  5. This is true, but does the Oliver owner need greater precision? The Klein products mentioned above read to +/- 0.01A DC and other multimeters can read to 0.001A. We're not testing electronic circuits. Several Oliver owners that have written here with electrical issues do not own one and have little to no experience in their use. Also, if you have a reliable Bluetooth shunt installed, do you need a clamp meter at all? They are clumsy and mine often sits in its pretty case. However, all Oliver owners should have a basic multimeter and at a minimum know how to read voltage. For example, water pump not working? Is it getting 12VDC at the pump? Heck, I've done automotive installations and troubleshooting since the 70s with only a test light in my toolbox. With this simple tool, no dials to turn or readings to understand, if it lights brightly you have voltage. Got my son and I each one of these for Christmas stocking stuffers. They were on sale for $8 at the time and so easy to use with one hand (try that with a multimeter)! 🤣 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D9RY532/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  6. GJ, since we've gotten to know each other (virtually), you know I ALWAYS have an answer (as do you)! I truly enjoyed your post, but I would just increase the pressure and blow those LBs out! 🤣 Seriously though, every Oliver owner should know this line is clear, since every time we fill the tank until it overflows and pressure cannot build in an open system. Before every trip, I fill mine at home where house pressure is known. We have an adjustable regulator in the basement.
  7. I mentioned starting on this project this weekend. Instead, I got deep into fixing/replacing all our waste valves. We leave on a camp on 3/24 and I would like to have both done, but working halftime too. We can leave w/o the DC-DC charger but I must get the drain valves finished which today are ALL torn apart, parts coming between today and Monday. 🤣
  8. We bypass Flagstaff all the time! When I work in Vegas heading home and there's snow up at 7K ft, I head south on US HWY 93 and near Bagdad AZ there is a county highway that heads towards Prescott. Given you are south of Flag, take highway 260 out of the Verde Valley towards Payson. Then Hwy 87 to Winslow which is under 5K elevation and you can get back on I-40 there. We only drive thru Flagstaff if we're going there since there is always traffic, construction on I-40 and SNOW in the winter! This route is equal in time to I-17N and I-40E and a beautiful drive! We're at 5400 ft and overnight had 1-2" of rani at 40F. It snowed and is still snowing there now at 7K ft. I can see the storm clouds from our deck! Hwy 87 shows rain on the road with snow on the peaks around the edge of the White Mountains.
  9. Exactly! Having lived in 5 different states in many cities and counties, I would say that a locale that does not have a recycling program today is a rare case. I keep used 5-gal containers in my garage for oils and antifreeze. These must be recycled separately, but it's safe to say that antifreeze is antifreeze wrt recycling. Brake fluid, spent fuels, oil based paints, solvents, etc. are hazardous waste. Our city schedules one month a year and they actually with application will come to our homes to pick up these wastes. The will be by our home this March! (see link) I go to drop off oil and antifreeze every couple of months. Sometimes I bring the Oliver with me while doing so to check the tow weight! 🤣 https://prescott-az.gov/trash-and-recycling/residential-collection/
  10. As already mentioned, Klein tools have a long history for quality. They only have two clamp-style multimeters that measure DC Amps, the CL390 and the CL800. I purchased the CL800 last year since it has a HD casing and an Ebay seller had one for $85. I still haven't figured out how to use 90% of its functionality, but I can read V, A and R! The CL390 is all you really need. We're all in agreement here! 😂
  11. Congratulations! and just wondering... Why purchase from a dealer when you live in Tennessee?
  12. Thanks Mike, you would think ours would be about the same. Our hull was titled in 2016 but I've seen several parts in the basement with 2015 dates. Yours is 22 hulls later which in that day could have been almost a year later. @ScubaRx Steve has mentioned how each was a one-off build back in the old days. You can see in my picture the extreme 180 turn. My SS cable has a bend there to match and another one for some other reason at the midpoint of the cable. Next I'll pull the gray valve cable to the bathroom to see if it's straight. This short cable is equally hard to pull. Later I'm going to see if I can access the gray waste valve, under my Victron inverter, under the streetside bed and then come up with an overall plan. I've always really disliked plumbing! New cables, new valves, motorized... ?
  13. @Galileo I'm starting to feel your pain here! I worked on the long cable going to the black tank waste valve. I tried to merely grease the two ends on the slide pistons with no improvement. Then I tried Mikes method. You need an 1/8" Allen key. The cable came out cleaner than I expected. I cleaned the cable with rubbing alcohol and then greased it as inserting with a silicone-based grease. It got stuck at the end, so I freed the cable clamp (two Phillips screws) from the valve and then it pushed through easily. It's maybe a little smoother, but... When I had the cable out it had two bends in it from the forced turns in installation. One in the middle of the length and a tighter radius bend at the waste valve end. Grease cannot help much with these acute bends. I tried working them out by hand with minor improvement. etrailer wants $50 for the 144" cable alone with mid-March delivery! I still have no idea which way I will go. At least I have time, as they are difficult but still functional. This installation is crude (see pic). Besides the hard angles in the 12 ft cable, the two valves are on top of each other, angled towards each other and rubbing. They also could have mounted the 3" valve on a 45 degree angle so that the cable did not have to turn a full 180! And all they had to do was to install the 1 1/2" gray valve further forward. It's also rubbing hard on the fiberglass wall. To install electric valves on either of these, I would have to move the gray valve and replace the black pipe, from the rubber joint to the gray tank. Val, on your newer hull OTT must have done better work or something was different for you to have the room to simply install the motorized valve. BTW, nobody should really worry about adding extra splices, though I have removed many of them in our hull. Another thing you can see in the pic is all the crimped butt connectors and they were used all over the basement! More reliable than a 3M Skotchlok which should only be used by backyard mechanics adding aftermarket accessories, never in a factory installation. I hadn't noticed any of this until I got into it! More to come, sooner or later...
  14. Off-roading in my 2WD tow vehicle, NOT! We have a GX470, lifted with performance suspension for that. Our TV travels roads tame enough to pull the Oliver. Either way, mounting under the bumper was the mistake made. Besides the greater chance for damage, it makes it hard to reach. I'm thinking the cables and SB175 will come out somewhere between the bumper and license plate. If connected to +12V, beside the physical damage to the cables and connector, you would merely blow the fuse which is it's purpose. I purchased the SB175 Environmental Boots, thick rubber to insulate the positive lead at the rear. I wasn't interested in a cut-off switch for our LiFePO4 batteries either. I'm old school, and NP taking a 1/2" wrench to the post. For the DC-DC charger, I'm not going to pop the hood and throw a switch every time we hitch and unhitch. Much too much bother. More on this, in a week or two, in a new post when I finish my installation. There are so many great variations in thought and mod designs discussed in our great forum! 😂
  15. I will not merely ground through the frame hitch, etc. I will have the B- from the charger in the Oliver to the SB175 Anderson connector at the hitch. On the TV side I will have a short cable bolted to the frame. Also, another short cable from the front end of the frame to the B- starter battery post. Most do not include this additional ground. Agreed, I too have noted installations here that do not achieve full charging amperage. Not sure why since many details of their installations were not provided. I believe those examples did run B+ and B- cables end-to-end. I see negligible resistance in a solid steel frame and perhaps less voltage drop than 4 awg copper over another 20 ft of distance. BTW, is voltage drop even an issue when the Orion XS 50A charger can accept input voltage from 9V min to 17V max? Not sure. Given I get mine installed next weekend or soon thereafter, we're heading towards Tucson starting Monday 2/24. I'll make sure we leave at a lower SOC and will measure what the new system can produce! I'll ask Chris to take multiple VictronConnect app pictures (from charger and shunt screens) while I drive, so I can study them later. I should remember to turn off the solar charger during this test to isolate the DC-DC charger. I will start the test at the full 50A capacity of the charger (see if the 4 awg wiring gets hot, or other issues). On another day test after detuning the charger to 30A.
×
×
  • Create New...