jd1923

If you want things done right, … (you know the rest)!

Does it actually turn the EMS off, or just the display?

Get 4 new shocks and you may want to go Bulldog brand vs. Monroe. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/bulldog-hd-suspension/bulldog-hd-suspension-shock-absorber/bul0/hd12130656/ https://www.4statetrucks.com/bulldog-hd-shock-absorber-replaces-555001-19-050000007 From what I can tell in your picture, the upper bushings on the original shocks were badly over-tightened causing the rubber bushings to fail prematurely. Your picture shows too many threads up top leaving very little spacing for the rubber. You want to tighten these so that the rubber is just mushrooming and not much more.

Thanks, Bill & Martha What Mike explained in the first paragraph of this post is he was pumping water into the black tank, as part of a cleaning process. He got distracted and left the water running. In this case the toilet bowl dump valve was closed. So the water could not go up into the bowl. The pressure from the hose after filling the tank to capacity, would then push the water up to that vent junction and into the gray waste system. This is an abnormal use-case where this occurred. Operator error, and hose pressure forced the overflow. Normally, this would not occur when operating the Oliver waste systems as designed.

I'm having trouble seeing how this could occur. But given this "has occurred" in your experience, please elaborate. Wouldn't the toilet bowl overflow first? We had our black tank once right up to the top, tank full and up the neck, 1-2" below the bowl. Had to stop using it until we towed miles to dump tanks. There was no black waste in the gray water. We also had the grey fill once to where it came up on the shower floor. In this case, we dumped some gray while boondocking since this is legal in in the SW National Forest lands when 500 feet from others and water sources. In neither case did waste of one kind go up the vent and into the other. I'm failing to see the physics that would cause water to get up to knee height which I believe is the approximate height of the sewer gas vent junction. Let us know. Thanks

Yes, as Mike explained and as John wrote nicely in two short sentences. Perhaps you did not see bubbles in the gray waste since there was enough gray water to break down the soap, kill the bubbles, which did not occur in your black waste. For a fact, black and gray waste are two independent systems, except for the venting of sewer gases as @Townesw illustrated above. However, the vents are at a height, a couple of feet taller, where the cross-over of liquids simply could not occur. Gray water would fill the shower floor and overflow into the cabin well before the height of these vents could be reached.

Again, the first thing I would do is connect to a non-GFCI outlet. 30A outlets at campgrounds are not GFCI. I've heard new homes have nothing but GCFI circuits in the garage. What a pain! Our 1980 built home only has one GFCI breaker that feeds the outlets in three bathrooms. I wire outlets in the garage wherever I need one. Add a new breaker and run new wire. You could use a 10 AWG extension cord to reach a non-GFCI outlet for testing purposes. This first post below was started by @John E Davies. Check page 2 for the jack service I performed. I believe I'm the only one who has performed a full service where I disassembled the head, degreased all parts, and got new grease UNDER the gears. Your hull is 5 years old, so it's a good time. Do NOT follow the maintenance video shown in Oliver University! Do you know the saying, "**** on a bull?" It's better to leave it alone than to work this procedure! The second post is where I rebuilt the rear jacks which shows lubricating the full 18" lift gear.

It appears you are plugging into a 15A GFCI outlet in your barn, and this outlet blows. If so, this has nothing to do with the Oliver except that it is pulling more than 15A. @Steph and Dud B mentioned this above. A 15A household circuit may not be enough to handle the load internal to the Oliver. Also, don't ever use a GFCI outlet as a source for shore power as they are designed to blow in milliseconds. Throw ALL the 120VAC breakers in your Oliver panel under the dinette seat. Connect shore power to another household circuit. Not a GFCI outlet and if you have a 20A circuit choose that over a 15A. Many of us have installed proper 30A outlets where we park our Olivers. Something to think about, relatively simple to install or hire an electrician. After connected to a proper circuit. Turn on your 30A main breaker and then one at a time turn ON and OFF each other breaker. When ON see if the named appliance is working that is connected to that breaker. I don't know enough about GFCI outlets, but I'll bet @Snackchaser does! Hopefully, Geoff will chime in. Using a GFCI outlet as a shore power connection could be your sole issue.

Can't wait to see your finished installation and get feedback on it's capability, given your Central Florida location. It must be getting warm down there! I have yet to see enough heat, and of course no humidity down here, to truly test it's cooling efficiency and Ah usage running on batteries! 😎 Will you run your A/C on inverter or shore power only? Here's my final touch. We have a half-dozen remotes in bins mounted front of the nightstand drawer. With the new Chill Cube, I decided to wall-mount two important remotes (mounted with 3M VHB tape only). These are now in a great central location which Chris can also reach from bed when needed!

Before your model came to market, the ductless model that I purchased had no thermostat interface which the ducted version has. If your new model has such interface, you could study the interface and have one wall-mounted thermostat to control both the A/C unit and the furnace. My Chill Cube is operated by remote only which includes the follow-me temp control. Given yours does not have a thermostat interface, you could do what I did with mine or something similar. I removed the Dometic thermostat from the wall above the kitchen sink and replaced it with a simple 2-wire furnace thermostat which I mounted in a different location. I also ran two new 14 AWG wires I had on hand. Original wiring was just pushed into the wall unused, staying where it was. You could also remount a new thermostat in the same place, using the same wiring (grab the 2 furnace wires). BTW, I sold my P2 on Craigs and to sell a complete unit, the Dometic thermostat should really be included. I asked $500 for it, but after it was listed off-season for 2 months, a guy offered me $200 and my reply was CASH today, and he agreed. Glad to get that POS off my property which was sitting outdoors in the Vermont 2-wheel cart we use for yardwork! I always thought where OTT mounted the thermostat made little sense. So often at night, it was to hot or cold and you'd have to get out of bed to change temp. I mounted it in arms reach just under the pantry. I can reach it easily to change temp and Chris can see the actual temp reading from her curbside bed. It always frustrated me that the Dometic thermostat only showed set temp, not actual temp, so I had mounted a Ruuvi sensor above it. I wanted a new furnace thermostat that would display actual temp, so it can be compared to set temp. This is the product I purchased, simple and does the job well! It displays actual temp when idle and set temp when pushing the up/down arrows, go figure. One thing that seems backwards is the ON/OFF switch, where up is OFF and down is ON, where the reverse order would be intuitive. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H6ARNXO This build thread shows pictures of our new thermostat installed and the mask job to cover all the many holes in the wall above the kitchen sink! 😎

It "blows the circuit on the shore socket." What exactly blows? Does the 30A breaker on the pedestal blow? If so, you have a dead short in your shore power cable, the receptacle, or in the EMS (given you have one, more info below). The GFCI is after the fact. If wiring past the GFCI get a short, it will trip and all outlets are after a 15A circuit breaker. The jacks are 12VDC, so running off battery. If your jack has a short the yellow-jacketed 30A 12VDC fuse will blow. These items cannot be your issue. Do you have an EMS with a display? The display might be in the attic. If so, when you plug into shore power check the display for an error code. The display shows 4 readings for a couple seconds each. It shows voltage present and Hz, amperage being used, and error codes. If you see E0, it means no errors. If you have anything but E0, you have an issue with incoming power. The error code definitions are on the cover of the EMS. This is a picture of our EMS and our display (I installed ours in the trunk, readout in picture is showing 123V actual). We'll know more when you answer my first question and your EMS status...

When you're able to wait on a technology purchase, usually products improve over time and get cheaper. This one is not cheaper ($412 more than I paid for the Chill Cube w/o heat pump). Though heat pump functionality would be good backup heat for our hull and for Chris @CRM if this was available, he may have gone this route vs. the Turbro. For them, a heat pump was a mandatory requirement. Hope removal of your rear A/C platform goes well. Let us know. https://unitedrvparts.com/products/furrion-chill-cube-non-ducted-heat-pump-2025008214-18-000-btu-white-facr18hepa-ps-am-1

Paul, that's a strange "bump" or platform that mine did not have. You can see in my installation picture above the roof is smooth. On our hull they merely made the rear legs of the P2 taller, since the roof slopes down. Good thing is the Chill cube is almost a foot shorter, when installed it sits only on the flat forward section. Anything can be removed and my guess is it's just glued down. OTT doesn't suggest removing it! 🤣 Likely, only because they do not want to suggest a liability and nobody working there today has any idea of how it was installed. If it was me, I would take another day or two and delete that platform. It's not pretty! I would remove the silicone caulk, scrape and use acetone. Then I would slowly pry up around the edges, and spend some time cleaning up the roof. 😎

I’ve shared 100 new content posts to help others. You can’t help others here with the name of the store that actually stocks this part? And nobody has to agree.

What’s the name of the auto parts store and at what city location?