jd1923

Gorilla tape OK for a trip to Depot or True Value… Get this instead and at this price, buy two and keep a roll in the Oliver. Since I found this for you and the price dropped from $20, I just purchased an Oliver-only roll! https://a.co/d/dMG8apM

That is a nice shelf, John. And yes it's a "simplified approach" which are the best designs! I had not thought of that space before, but yeah it is a void. I'm thinking now of maybe a couple of wire baskets back there for towels, if that would work on the curve. Hmmm...? (and the list gets longer, when I thought I had done enough in 2 years.)

And the 2 5/16" ball will help. I just upgraded our Andersen ball to 2 5/16", new friction cone and Bulldog 12.5K coupler and will start a new post on that. Not going to grease our new ball since I can see what grease (from prior owner) did to the Andersen internals.

A 300A should be between the battery + and the inverter and a fuse is much preferred over a breaker since it protect both sides, the batteries and the inverter, where a breaker is directional. Our Victron Multiplus specs a 400A fuse for this (ANL or better yet a Class-T fuse). A 60A breaker or less (40A or 30A depending on your equipment) would be used for internal circuits like the 12V fuse panel or solar chargers, etc. I don't see any need for a 100A breaker in the Oliver circuitry, but maybe they're doing something different in newer hulls.

It’s just nice even at a campground to not bother with any hookups. We have all the water and electric we need. Just dump gray every 5 days, black every 10, and where we Boondock most places we can drop some gray in the BLM or NF.

These hand-held options don't work for us. We do not carry small water tanks to the rear of the Oliver. I fill a 35-gal FWT in the truck bed every time we fill water. With the onboard FWT full and our extra tank we can boondock, not worry about water for 10 days. I use a 25' and 10' rigid hose to connect the two while still being hitched. Fill about 18 gallons after a few days out and the rest of the tank after a week. I must use rigid hoses and never seem to have an issue stretching them out since I wind them in large 3' circles and curve them oval to fit in the Oliver trunk over other stuff. Flat hoses would be cool, but will not work for us!

Keep one if you ever need to use the boondocking port.

You are golden! My old Ram had 130A OEM, I replaced with a HO 180A and I’ve gotten as high as 48A outputted from our Orion XS 50A charger.

Glad for you that David @Coddiwomple reached out. I could not answer for an EI. Also check into the amperage capability of the alternator on your Jeep. Some of us have had to upgrade that to guarantee available amps.

Last year I purchased a Timbren bumpstop kit for the rear axle of my truck. When installing I had broken the u-bolt mount (a poor design since it did not fit flush and I had overtightened it not realizing this). I called eTrailer for a replacement part, thinking I would have to pay for it and/or shipping. The CSR took down my info, asked me to email a picture, and said she would speak to Timbren. She called me back the next morning reporting that Timbren approved sending me an entire new kit at no cost, no additional shipping. I got it in 2 days. That's why I continue to buy from them. I also purchased Timken bearings for the Oliver from them, knowing they would not be Chinese knockoffs! I don't see self-adjusters causing this issue in just 300 miles. I would first consider incorrect installation (which they would not admit) or perhaps the "bad batch" reason. Maybe they didn't get the top of the shoe on the post correctly. Also, smoke is not normal, or the shoe holders were not installed. And a minor smell of new materials can be expected, but visible smoke no! But who would think such a disaster would occur in just 300 miles.

How did you attach it, fix it so it will stay put?

Rob, don't think or use torque values for rubber mounts. I've seen some pictures here that look right and some showing over-tightened bushings. You want to tighten them enough for the rubber bushings to pillow nicely, not enough so that the rubber will mushroom beyond the mounting plate which will cause premature failure of the bushings. The nuts are Nylok locking nuts so they will stay put.

Make sure you purchase the Orion XS 50A charger that was not yet on the market when Geoff worked his install. I detailed my installation and charging performance. We love it, no more SOC% worries. Watch video to see why to spend on the 50A model and check out other installations. See mine below and there are at least 4 on this forum (search for Orion or DC-DC).

That hose must have been wrapped around the jack on purpose. The dang hose gets caught on something always. OTT should have it in a holding tube so that it can be pulled out and back in smoothly. OTT installs the shower head with hard 90 degree PEX and our gets caught on that often. I have to get under my bed AGAIN to free it before our next trip. I've wrapped the 90s with loom and it hasn't helped. I need to figure out something else this time. I need the FULL length of the hose to fit it into an exterior mount I added to get it held above my head height! Like to shower outside whenever we're boondocking in decent weather. The inside shower isn't tall enough and I prefer not getting the bathroom wet. Our wet-bath shower is mainly for Chris. I've only used it a few times.

Ours too, and like Mike’s and Steve’s still in very good cosmetic and working condition. I find it a pain to use and honestly have only used it once in our 2 years. I usually just park so that our entrance side is in the afternoon shade. We enjoy morning sun with coffee. I would likely use an electric model more often. If ours were to fail though, I would just remove it and all the brackets, patch the fiberglass, and the Oliver would look so aerodynamically cool! 😂