roguebooks
-
Posts
192 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Posts posted by roguebooks
-
-
Where exactly can I purchase this 40 amp fuse and what exactly is it called? Can someone provide a link? Thanks.
-
Progressive
-
2
-
-
17 minutes ago, BillATX said:
Has anybody repositioned the hanging rod in the closet? I have an Elite 1 (2021 model). The hanging rod is too close to the door to be very useful for hanging clothes.
I have searched the forum for various topics, but haven't found any threads on this topic.
I wonder if anybody has done this mod?
TIA - Bill
We actually had Oliver change it during one of our early maintenance trips for stuff under warranty. My wife hated where they had it and I believe they changed it for free. Ours is a 2918 Legacy Elite I
-
2
-
-
7 hours ago, BackofBeyond said:
It sounds like you don't plan to keep the Oliver more than another 4-5 years. Were it me, I'd go simple - buy the best replacement AGM's - and keep going. The Lifelines are good units. Good Luck.
RB
Will these Bright Way Group BW 62000 (Group 27) - 6V 200AH SLA Batteries work as replacement for my Lifeline AGM's? I like their smaller height.
-
8 minutes ago, John E Davies said:
What do you mean by best option? Those are no name batteries with no real reputation. Have you read their warranty terms?
I can pretty much guarantee you won’t get very much usable capacity and even two years of use in a rough riding travel trailer installation. Run, don’t walk.
Buy a name brand with a good warranty and a dealer network for future support while traveling. Your intended use (many days off grid) requires this! If your finances are so limited that you cannot maintain your Ollie properly, then IMHO you need to rethink owning it. It will only result in extra expenses and future heartache.
John Davies
Spokane WA
I am not concerned with spending money on something I need. I just want a system that is simple, good, and does what I want it to do. The AGM Lifeline batteries really did not live up to expectations. I am happy to use lithium but it gets more complicated. I am, and have been, maintaining the trailer. But not interested in doing it the rest of my life, whatever is left. Any suggestions for a reputable 6V AGM battery that isn't taller that 10 inches? I am happy to pay. And it isn't the money for maintenance, it is the lack of my know how. I do know my limitations.
-
Upon shore power inspection this morning the controller read 13.7 and the tank monitor read 13.6
I unplugged the trailer and will monitor throughout the day whether the batteries hold or not. Nothing is running, no lights or fans. One concern was the ah readout which said 0.2. Shouldn't that reading instead represent a full charge after being plugged into shore power for over 12 hours? Hmm
-
These batteries appear to be the best option for us if we need two new batteries (which I should find out today). Let me know what you think. Link below. Plus they are a bit smaller than my present ones which will help in these tight quarters. You all have been so helpful and kind. Thank you again.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F7NTQ29/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
-
6 hours ago, ADKCamper said:
We have a late-2018 Elite with the (2) Lifeline 6v AGM's... now in year 4 and still holding up well.
We will probably switch to lithium when these die.
Yes, as mentioned you can change the Zamp solar controller charge profile. However, our 60A Progressive Dynamics PD4060CSV converter (bundled in with the breaker panel under the side dinette) does not support a lithium charging profile. Battleborn (and I'm sure other places) sells a replacement PD4060LICSV converter with a lithium charge profile. The converter swap-out is pretty straight-forward. A year or so ago I saw them on sale for about $187... I haven't looked lately, and almost everything is more expensive now!
Thanks. That will be the deal breaker for us. Just when it was looking like a great idea. Any added expense at this stage is a no no. I am sure we have the same converter as you. I'm not planning on hauling a trailer around for much longer than four or five years so...
-
7 hours ago, katanapilot said:
As sensed by the EMS - 117 volts, 23 amp current draw, 60 hertz (cycles). E0 - no errors as you indicated.
Thank you!
-
13 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:
You will have to change the charging profile, on yourczamp, at the least.
How do you camp? Do you need/want lithium?
We boondock a couple days then head for more amenities but I’d like to know we could make it for four or five. The price for one 12v lithium is actually less than two 6V Lifeline AGM so yes, I think I want the lithium if I don’t have to do anything but hook ‘em up. I know I change the Zamp controller setting but not sure where the charging profile is.
-
1 hour ago, Chukarhunter said:
If you do have an inverter/charger installed in your LE , it almost certainly has a LifePO4 charging profile in which case there is nothing else to do to convert to lithium batteries besides removing the AGMs and putting the lithium (s) in and reconnecting the battery cables.
Steve
Great help. Thanks. I just might switch to LifePO4 if all I have to do is change the batteries. Our Ollie has solar and inverter and it was made in 2018. Is it really true? Nothing to do but change the batteries?
-
Update: We got the power back up and running today, installed the new transfer switch, and my electrician wants me to power up at least twelve hours before shutting down and seeing if the batteries hold their full charge (I am doubting they will). He is going to look at possible options regarding going with one 12V AGM versus two 6V AGM. My wife and I decided not to upgrade to lithium due to present expenses and we will both be happy if we have to replace our new AGM's in four or five years (meaning we got to live and travel some more). I will update as soon as I decide and we see what tomorrow brings regarding the present batteries. I did notice that the two 6V AGM's I had in my Amazon shopping cart were 1" taller than my current AGM's. That isn't going to work as the battery compartment is already way too tight.
FYI: The error codes flashing initially after powering up and rotating on my surge protector were as follows: 117; 23A; 60H; and E O. Can anyone translate this for me or tell me where to find this info? I know the last one means everything is OK.
-
2
-
-
1 hour ago, WandR said:
Here is what I did last year when I replaced my original Trojan AGM batteries. Take a look at this thread and see if it helps.
Thank you. Much to consider here. We got the power up and running today, installed a new transfer switch, and my electrician wants me to power up at least twelve hours before shutting down and seeing if the batteries hold their full charge (I am doubting they will). He is going to look at possible options regarding going with one 12V AGM versus two 6V AGM. My wife and I decided not to upgrade to lithium due to present expenses and we will both be happy if we have to replace our new AGM's in four or five years (meaning we got to live and travel some more). I will update as soon as I decide and we see what tomorrow brings regarding the present batteries. I did notice that the two 6V AGM's I had in my Amazon shopping cart were 1" taller than my current AGM's. That isn't going to work as the Oliver battery compartment is already too tight.
-
1
-
-
16 minutes ago, AndrewK said:
Roguebooks,
If you would like someone to discuss this further with and/or walk you through the process over the phone, I would be more than happy to help.
Message me, with your contact information, if you are interested in discussing.
Andrew
Thanks Andrew. My electrician just showed up so maybe I'll have something positive to write about tomorrow. When it rains it pours. I'll PM you if I need you to explain something better. My electrician is pretty sharp and also lives pretty much full-time in his RV on some land outside of Gainesville. He is also going to research some on what battery/batteries to purchase for my situation.
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, Frank C said:
If your batteries are only getting “up to 11.1 volts”, they are not charged. 11.1 volts is a dead battery (less than 10% charged). 7 volts is really dead. Sounds like your batteries do need replaced.
Yep.That's a far as I could get, 11.1 and I know that is also why I get the red lights and blinking. I'll have my electrician test the AGM's but I am quite certain they are ruined. This morning they read 4.1 before I set up the solar suitcase. Four hours later it is only reading 8.9 so the charging is working inside and out but the batteries won't hold a charge or get fully charged or get the controller to settle down. I still don't know where those darn 40 amp fuses are in my trailer from the panels to the controller and the controller to the batteries although I assume they are ok.
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, John E Davies said:
Another part of the lithium equation is vehicle charging. Your truck won’t charge them correctly (too low a voltage) (Oliver leaves that wire completely disconnected for the lithium packages), so if you need that capability you must add a DC to DC smart charger, that steps up the voltage. If you boondock under tree cover or on a gray day you need that capability, or else use your generator for a few hours, as needed. My Redarc charger will deliver 11 amps hour after hour when towing, that is a 50% charge for my two 100 AH batteries during a long 9 hour tow…..
John Davies
Spokane WA
I don't like that idea. I do like recharging my batteries with truck between boondocking locations and I doubt I have the people here to help me with all this technical stuff. Maybe I better stick to the AGM's. Not sure what the difference is between a 12V and a 2-6V other than I only need one 12V. Is it the same size as two 6V? I am thinking my trailering days will be over before the AGM batteries quit again.
-
4 hours ago, John E Davies said:
Are you sure you want 6 volts? If you do lots of camping while connected to shore power, cheaper 12 volts ones might be worth considering.
https://www.getawaycouple.com/6v-deep-cycle-battery/#overall
If you do boondock a lot, switching to lithium is expensive at first, but a no brainer in the long run. You would also save a ton of dead weight which gives you back more payload. It also helps tremendously with resale value. I don’t think anybody who has done this regrets the decision.
https://battlebornbatteries.com/product-category/lifepo4-batteries/
They have one called the Gamechanger. I think that is a great description for lithium RV batteries in general.
John Davies
Spokane WA
John,
Are you saying I could get by with just one of these?
https://battlebornbatteries.com/product/12v-lifepo4-deep-cycle-battery/
Do I have to change anything to the wiring or the inverter or anything else besides changing the solar controller to lifepo4?
Will this bugger fit in my battery compartment? I know the two 6V AGM's I have fit rather snug especially the headroom.
-
I am certain my two factory installed Llifeline gpl-4ct agm batteries need replacing as they won't hold a daylong solar panel charge. (My shore power is out at the moment.) I get them up to 11.1 Volts and within two or three hours they are down to 7 and slipping fast. What are the best replacement batteries for these two? I saw on amazon this option VMAXTANKS 6 Volt 225Ah AGM Battery: High Capacity & Maintenance Free Deep Cycle Battery for Golf Carts, Solar Energy, Wind Energy. I want to do what's best long term. I don't think I want lithium but will stay with AGM. Any suggestions or insight? (My elecrician still hasn't shown up. He says today.) I also saw this last double one but not sure if it is the right replacement. Ideas?
-
38 minutes ago, dhaig said:
@roguebooks, from your description, I would venture you have a low voltage condition, with the AGM batteries below 3.0V, or your batteries are disconnected. The 601 code appears if either condition occurs.
I knew my batteries were disconnected, since I had turned OFF all three of my Lithionics lithium batteries. As soon as I turned the batteries ON, normal conditions were observed.
Good Luck.
Don
The controller reads 11.1 which is below the 11.5 it says is the marker for the 601 reading. I no longer have the 601 code but we’ll see in the morning if it comes back.
-
1
-
-
16 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:
@roguebooksI would probably continue charging with a controlled portable solar, in cloudy condition, and/or agm specific charger, attached directly to the batteries, til I figured it out.
The portable solar goes directly to the batteries, via a fused line, bypassing the zamp controller.
Do you have any readings from your agm batteries, via multimeter?
If they're really low, you're better off with a low charge, anyway, to start. Imo. With agm
I do not know what a multimeter is but I’ll bet I don’t have one. Sure hope my electrician shows up tomorrow. I did a hard reset a few minutes ago so we’ll see if that helps. It might be those 40 amp fuses if I can find them.
-
1
-
-
On 6/23/2022 at 1:10 PM, Bill Reed said:
This turned out to be the problem. I had a blown 40 amp fuse, and I replaced it with a circuit breaker that I ordered from Amazon. Fixed the problem and everything is working fine now. Kudos to Mike at the Oliver service department for correctly diagnosing this problem and suggesting I replace the fuse.
Where exactly is that fuse? Under the dinette? I remember seeing three 40 amp fuses near the top of the breaker panel. I have a 2018 Elite 1.
-
Sorry to read of your issue Dan. To add more misery to my own 110 volt AC problem my solar/battery controller is now reading 601 as well, and I have no more juice in the batteries to run my fan (or lights) while I wait for my electrician. I am hoping this 601 code is due to all the rain and clouds we have had this past week in Florida as I have not had this problem before. I hooked up my solar suitcase today to help charge the batteries but it didn't raise the level very much. I am hoping it was because of too many clouds again, but it was working. When I hooked the truck to the trailer the batteries were charging fine but that is an expensive way to recharge my AGM batteries. My electrician is supposed to be here tomorrow to replace the transfer box, but if anyone has any words of comfort (or wisdom) I would appreciate hearing them. Is it possible I am getting this 601 code because one of the fuses blew that are in both positive lines running from panels to controller and controller to batteries?
-
2 hours ago, katanapilot said:
A couple of questions -
Is this failure preventing you from going on a planned trip?
Where in the Atlanta area are you? I am south of the city in Henry County. I'm not an electrician, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night 😉
In all seriousness, I can swap the transfer switch for you if you bring the trailer to me. I have wired a couple of houses, a hangar and two airplanes that I built (yes, I know the planes are all DC) - if you are unable to make a trip you had planned.
Thanks. We live in Gainesville, Florida. This problem is not preventing us from taking a trip. We just returned from a nine week tour out west and glad this didn't happen out there. My electrician called me right after my last response, He lived through his second Covid debacle. We are set up for Tuesday morning now. I appreciate your offer.
-
2
-
-
Still waiting on my electrician. He got Covid-19 almost immediately after receiving the new transfer box and arranging our appointment. He told me to wait for him if I could. So I wait. Thanks for the info.
Zamp Error Code
in General Discussion
Posted
Thanks