roguebooks

I-75 South is congested especially north and south of Atlanta. I drove up from Gainesville Friday and it was bumper to bumper and backed up for many miles. I was driving north of course and it took me over three hours just to get through Atlanta. I know nothing about I-95 or I-65 but it would have to be better. Gasoline is no longer a problem anywhere I’ve been.

Thanks everybody. We've washed and waxed and cleaned the interior and put our Ollie to bed for the winter. Thirteen weeks on the road over this hot and long summer just about did us in. Seven years of camping so far. Likely take shorter trips from here on out if we recover. Not sure what we'll do but just curious as to how to proceed now that our "classifieds" are kaput. Appreciate the help!

Thank you! (Even though I hate Facebook)

Since the classified section is closed I need to know how to sell my used 2018 Oliver Legacy Elite 1 trailer. It would be helpful to also learn how to determine what the trailer is worth and what it should sell for. Does anybody have any guidance for me? The forum's classified section was something I had great respect for and have no idea why Oliver removed it.

There’s a ACoE campground on a lake near my beloved Eureka Springs which is a splendid little town full of interesting surprises and great architecture.

I have new AGM batteries and I keep my Ollie covered the nine months it's not in use here in Florida. Last fall I had what can only be described as a parasitic drain on the batteries. I first trouble-shot the problem thinking there was something wrong with the electrical system, the different fuses, inverter, and on and on. After disconnecting the batteries and charging them up separately I decided the cheap battery disconnect my electrician installed was causing the most trouble with its corrosion and basic uselessness. The batteries did take a full charge and then kept it even when the temperatures turned cold this winter. Now I know that keeping the batteries disconnected completely from the system is key when the solar panels aren't fully charging them due to the trailer cover and the shore power stays disconnected as well. Plus I don't trust the occasional charge from the 30 amp shore power I was accustomed to doing. The solar console takes some parasitic juice as does the radio, not to mention the carbon monoxide alarm and my composting toilet fan. Of course, I am a DIY dummy and work hard at figuring things out for myself. But my hunch is you need to fully charge your batteries and totally disconnect them when the trailer is not in use. And installing one of those cheap battery disconnects is not the answer either. Completely unhooking the battery cables from the batteries is the way to go. But what do I know? Good luck. Hope I was of some assistance though there are plenty more informed people here than I am.

Thanks

Where exactly can I purchase this 40 amp fuse and what exactly is it called? Can someone provide a link? Thanks.

Progressive

We actually had Oliver change it during one of our early maintenance trips for stuff under warranty. My wife hated where they had it and I believe they changed it for free. Ours is a 2918 Legacy Elite I

Will these Bright Way Group BW 62000 (Group 27) - 6V 200AH SLA Batteries work as replacement for my Lifeline AGM's? I like their smaller height. https://www.batterywholesale.com/collections/all-batteries/products/bright-way-group-bw-62000-group-27-6v-200ah-sla-battery

I am not concerned with spending money on something I need. I just want a system that is simple, good, and does what I want it to do. The AGM Lifeline batteries really did not live up to expectations. I am happy to use lithium but it gets more complicated. I am, and have been, maintaining the trailer. But not interested in doing it the rest of my life, whatever is left. Any suggestions for a reputable 6V AGM battery that isn't taller that 10 inches? I am happy to pay. And it isn't the money for maintenance, it is the lack of my know how. I do know my limitations.

Upon shore power inspection this morning the controller read 13.7 and the tank monitor read 13.6 I unplugged the trailer and will monitor throughout the day whether the batteries hold or not. Nothing is running, no lights or fans. One concern was the ah readout which said 0.2. Shouldn't that reading instead represent a full charge after being plugged into shore power for over 12 hours? Hmm

These batteries appear to be the best option for us if we need two new batteries (which I should find out today). Let me know what you think. Link below. Plus they are a bit smaller than my present ones which will help in these tight quarters. You all have been so helpful and kind. Thank you again. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F7NTQ29/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Thanks. That will be the deal breaker for us. Just when it was looking like a great idea. Any added expense at this stage is a no no. I am sure we have the same converter as you. I'm not planning on hauling a trailer around for much longer than four or five years so...

Thank you!

We boondock a couple days then head for more amenities but I’d like to know we could make it for four or five. The price for one 12v lithium is actually less than two 6V Lifeline AGM so yes, I think I want the lithium if I don’t have to do anything but hook ‘em up. I know I change the Zamp controller setting but not sure where the charging profile is.

Great help. Thanks. I just might switch to LifePO4 if all I have to do is change the batteries. Our Ollie has solar and inverter and it was made in 2018. Is it really true? Nothing to do but change the batteries?

Update: We got the power back up and running today, installed the new transfer switch, and my electrician wants me to power up at least twelve hours before shutting down and seeing if the batteries hold their full charge (I am doubting they will). He is going to look at possible options regarding going with one 12V AGM versus two 6V AGM. My wife and I decided not to upgrade to lithium due to present expenses and we will both be happy if we have to replace our new AGM's in four or five years (meaning we got to live and travel some more). I will update as soon as I decide and we see what tomorrow brings regarding the present batteries. I did notice that the two 6V AGM's I had in my Amazon shopping cart were 1" taller than my current AGM's. That isn't going to work as the battery compartment is already way too tight. FYI: The error codes flashing initially after powering up and rotating on my surge protector were as follows: 117; 23A; 60H; and E O. Can anyone translate this for me or tell me where to find this info? I know the last one means everything is OK.

Thank you. Much to consider here. We got the power up and running today, installed a new transfer switch, and my electrician wants me to power up at least twelve hours before shutting down and seeing if the batteries hold their full charge (I am doubting they will). He is going to look at possible options regarding going with one 12V AGM versus two 6V AGM. My wife and I decided not to upgrade to lithium due to present expenses and we will both be happy if we have to replace our new AGM's in four or five years (meaning we got to live and travel some more). I will update as soon as I decide and we see what tomorrow brings regarding the present batteries. I did notice that the two 6V AGM's I had in my Amazon shopping cart were 1" taller than my current AGM's. That isn't going to work as the Oliver battery compartment is already too tight.

Thanks Andrew. My electrician just showed up so maybe I'll have something positive to write about tomorrow. When it rains it pours. I'll PM you if I need you to explain something better. My electrician is pretty sharp and also lives pretty much full-time in his RV on some land outside of Gainesville. He is also going to research some on what battery/batteries to purchase for my situation.

Yep.That's a far as I could get, 11.1 and I know that is also why I get the red lights and blinking. I'll have my electrician test the AGM's but I am quite certain they are ruined. This morning they read 4.1 before I set up the solar suitcase. Four hours later it is only reading 8.9 so the charging is working inside and out but the batteries won't hold a charge or get fully charged or get the controller to settle down. I still don't know where those darn 40 amp fuses are in my trailer from the panels to the controller and the controller to the batteries although I assume they are ok.

I don't like that idea. I do like recharging my batteries with truck between boondocking locations and I doubt I have the people here to help me with all this technical stuff. Maybe I better stick to the AGM's. Not sure what the difference is between a 12V and a 2-6V other than I only need one 12V. Is it the same size as two 6V? I am thinking my trailering days will be over before the AGM batteries quit again.

John, Are you saying I could get by with just one of these? https://battlebornbatteries.com/product/12v-lifepo4-deep-cycle-battery/ Do I have to change anything to the wiring or the inverter or anything else besides changing the solar controller to lifepo4? Will this bugger fit in my battery compartment? I know the two 6V AGM's I have fit rather snug especially the headroom.

I am certain my two factory installed Llifeline gpl-4ct agm batteries need replacing as they won't hold a daylong solar panel charge. (My shore power is out at the moment.) I get them up to 11.1 Volts and within two or three hours they are down to 7 and slipping fast. What are the best replacement batteries for these two? I saw on amazon this option VMAXTANKS 6 Volt 225Ah AGM Battery: High Capacity & Maintenance Free Deep Cycle Battery for Golf Carts, Solar Energy, Wind Energy. I want to do what's best long term. I don't think I want lithium but will stay with AGM. Any suggestions or insight? (My elecrician still hasn't shown up. He says today.) I also saw this last double one but not sure if it is the right replacement. Ideas?