herm
-
Posts
144 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by herm
-
-
There's obviously a lot of conflicting information regarding psi, and I don't really want to add to the confusion; however, this link from Goodyear http://goodyear.com/rv/tirecare/index.html supports the practice of inflating to the actually load requirement of the axle, not the maximum allowable psi of the tire. There's also a link to load/inflaction tables that give you the psi required to achieve a given load limit for various tire sizes.
Based on this data, my 225/75R15 Load Range D tires inflated to only 50psi are capable of 2150 lbs. per tire, adequate for my actual weight (or should I say, predicted actual weight...I haven't actually been to a scale yet). AFAIK, there shouldn't be any harm in inflating to the full 65psi maximum, but it shouldn't be required for the performance of the tire. I really have a hard time believing that the abnormal tire wear some are experiencing is caused by operating the tires at 50psi.
jam49, I'm curious. What type of tires did you get on your Oliver? Being that they have a max. of 80psi, I'm guessing they are Load Range E? Is that something you selected, or is this the new Oliver standard? If true, your CW technician is correct...it's way more tire than you actually need.
Herm
-
I haven't racked up enough miles to notice any uneven wear (actually no noticable wear whatsoever yet), but I think Kyle's analysis is spot on. I don't keep my tires at 65 psi either, largely because I don't need the full load capacity of the tire and it offers a little more cushioning (in theory anyway). I don't believe there's any requirement to maintain max. psi, unless it's for load capacity reasons.
Anyone else noticed the little 'kink' in the middle of the axle? On mine it points up, i.e. slightly more ground clearance in the center of the axle versus the ends. Any chance this could also produce the positive camber at the wheel which Kyle was referring to? I suppose this doesn't explain the curbside-only nature of the problem though.
Herm
-
I have not experienced this problem, but I will definitely take a look at this since I have the same unit. Out of curiosity, what material did you use as a spacer?
Honestly, I would have guessed that the Polar Cub's would be more susceptible to leaks due to the fan opening on the top side of the cover, and that's one reason I opted to keep the Duo Therm.
Herm
-
If I understand correctly, the problem is the diameter of the 225, not the width? If that's the case, perhaps a worn 225 would eventually fit, assuming there's a reasonable amount of tread left?
Also, I wouldn't even think twice about the little bit of added weight. If my memory is correct, there's a large aluminum backing plate glassed into the exterior shell. You could probably hang a bike rack off of that spare tire post...hmmm, now there's an idea.
Herm
-
Thanks for sharing your solution DCKiefer. I too am somewhat uncomfortable carrying a spare tire that doesn't have the same load rating as the others. I believe my mounted tires are only 225's (I did not upgrade to Goodyears, if that makes any difference), so my first idea is to try to fit a deflated full-size tire/wheel back there. I simply haven't had the opportunity to test this yet. Since I always travel with a small 12V compressor, it wouldn't be a big deal to inflate the tire when needed.
If that doesn't work, I may just leave it alone. After all, the spare only needs to get me to the nearest Discount Tire or whatever. As long as I don't drive 80mph on a 100+ degree day loaded to the max. 4500 lbs. while using that spare, I should be fine.
Herm
-
1
-
-
Looks great, Kyle! That's quite an impressive list of upgrades! Unless I somehow missed it, can you explain what that wall-mouted white box it to the left of the bathroom door? Smart decision to skip the popup and get the Oliver right away, IMO.
I'm jealous that all you southerners are already camping. We've got 6-8 inches of snow on the way today, so winter is not over yet.
Herm
-
Honestly, had I known the LED package was simply a lamp swap, I probably would've done it myself too. I incorrectly assumed the entire fixture was different. But considering these things are $18 each, I feel it was fairly priced. I also like the fact that they used the seemingly brighter 'cool' lamps over the kitchen, and used the 'warm' ones in the other areas.
Technomadia, according to your link to the lamps Oliver is using, it looks like the are 90 lumens and only 2.16 watts (180mA x 12V). Or, at least that's what they are now? Still not as efficient as the ones DCKiefer found though.
I was coincidentally just introduced to an amazing LED product here at work. It's basically a narrow (.31") ribbon of LED's with a self-adhesive backing that can trimmed and applied to just about anything. Common applications include under-cabinet lighting, cove lighting, etc.; however, I'm sure there are a lot of clever uses for it in our Olivers. Here's a link: http://www.gmlighting.net/index-4.html
Herm
-
1
-
-
Desmo, congrats on your new trailer. I'm sure it was worth waiting for! Hopefully, you'll be posting photos of the new baby soon (the trailer, that is)?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I assume the 'wheel well fixtures' you referred to is the trim piece that covers the wheel well area above the tire? Personally, I don't mind the look of the open well (especially with the black liner), but I guess they were going for a more 'sophisticated' look with the 22.
Herm
-
I don't know that you can really call this 100% efficient, given that fact that you need to open a window and a roof vent. I have to believe the heat loss through those openings could be rather significant on a cold day. However, I don't doubt that they can be more efficient than conventional heaters. And efficiency aside, I think the near-silent operation would be fantastic. What would worry me the most is making sure that CO levels are in check. And I probably wouldn't get a good nights sleep without first installing a secondary CO monitor with ppm readout near the bed.
Herm
-
Cherie, I can only assume that this cutting board area is a little more useful for you since you opted to delete the microwave. And for those kind of tasks, I can certainly understand your wishing for more light. For the rest of us, it really doesn't have much practical value as a food prep area, especially if you want to actually use the microwave. So for me, the lighting in this particular area is more or less a non-issue.
Herm
-
Sorry guys...I think I jumped the gun on this one. When I first read option list, I didn't realize that the "LED overhead lighting package" is referring to the lamp upgrade for the puck-style lights. I'm sure it's only a matter of time, however, until they add an overhead CABINET lighting package to the option list.
So, I guess that means I WILL be cobbling together a cabinet lighting solution sometime this spring...
Herm
-
In looking at the latest literature on Oliver's website, it looks like overhead cabinet lighting is now a factory option! Before I start reinventing the wheel, I'll probably call the factory and see what they're using. I'm sure their solution is better than anything that I'd cobble together in a weekend.
Herm
-
Chris and others, you should take a look at the brochures and spec sheet links on the Oliver website's home page. They've got info on all the models, including the 22. Those are the only photos I've seen so far, completed that is.
Herm
-
I can't believe I'm already looking at completed photos...amazing!
And I love those high-mounted running light! Is that a DOT requirement for trailers over a certain length? I remember my old 24' Innsbruck trailer has those too, except in a different configuration.
Herm
-
Tn girl, I wouldn't call it the perfect combination, but I don't see anything unsafe with what you are proposing. The Oliver Elite has a max weight of 4500 lbs., and you'd have a tough time exceeding that. Like you, I'm towing with a truck-platform SUV with a relatively short wheelbase, and I can tell you that the ride gets a bit bouncy on rough roads. Not sure what your towing package includes, but you'll need a standard 7-pin plug and a brake controller if you don't have that already.
Herm
-
Sherry, those photos are great! I'm a bit surprised to see that the floor plan is not much different than the 17'er, more or less a stretched version of the Oliver we all know and love. It looks like they've added most of the extra 4' to the kitchen and a new cabinet between the side dinette and rear dinette (replacing the infamous stripper pole), and also the rear dinette appears longer with a U-shaped design.
Interesting to see the Oliver is creating a buzz on the AS forum...
Herm
-
I realize I'm a little late on this conversation (been on vacation the last couple weeks), and the artic front has long since passed for mountainborn (I hope). If you want to look up my instructions, they're in a topic by meanderthal titled "Winterizing Instructions Excellent, but". However, that might be overkill for you. Since you've already drained the lines and tanks, the logical next step would be to blow the remaining water out with compressed air or pump antifreeze through the lines, or if you super paranoid like myself, do both.
Otherwise, you can probably just keep doing what you're doing - monitor the temps and add more heat as necessary. With a large enough heater, even I probably wounldn't need to winterize, but it would cost a fortune!
Herm
-
1
-
-
...and no bulldog hitch or telescoping tongue. Looks like the SPORT loses more than just a few options, but there's probably a larger market for a trailer in this price range. It's definitely a smart move on Oliver's part, and I'm excited to see the product line expand.
Herm
-
Great idea! I've been thinking about adding an LED ropelight myself, but those 'driving lights' are probably much brighter. One thing to consider...you could also switch the overhead cabinet lights from one the two spare switches near the door, an idea that Robert shared with me when we picked up our Oliver.
Herm
-
Oops...forgot to answer your question about temporary registration. Yes, Oliver will provide you with a temporary plate which is good for a month or so. You'll then need to register the trailer (and presumably pay taxes, etc.) once you return home.
Herm
-
Same story for me, though I didn't pay any sort of late registration penalty. I paid the usual 6.5% sales tax (just like any motor vehicle) plus some other minor fees. Though painful, it's a lot better than paying the sales tax in Tennessee, which is much higher due to lack of income taxes.
Hope you have a great time picking up your new trailer!
Herm
-
That's funny...my right side pin is also extremely tight. I've been able to get it out by pushing the bumper in tight with one hand while twisting the pin out with the other. I'm afraid to drill it out because I don't want to have the opposite problem...a rattling bumper. So for now, I'm leaving it as is.
Herm
-
No Pete, I haven't even considered naming the Oliver. Heck, we haven't even named our boat yet and it's 6 years old! I suppose that's bad luck?
I'm still trying to determine what it would take to run my 13.5 kbtu Dometic with a generator. The owner's manual which I downloaded states 3.5kW minimum, but that seems to be overly conservative based on what I've been reading...and there's no way I'm hauling around a big monster like that. Most people recommend a 3000 watt unit (also not small), but some get away with a Yamaha 2400. If anyone has every tried the combination of a Yamaha 2400 and the 13.5 Dometic A/C, I'd like to know how (or if) that worked. The Yamaha 2400 (70 lbs.) is probably the largest unit I would consider.
If that doesn't pan out, I may have to consider getting the smaller A/C after all, though I'd hate to lose the digital thermostat. And based on what Doug's reporting, it sounds like I'd also lose the heatstrip feature (or reliable use of it anyway). Though I must admit I always fire up the propane heater, forgetting that the heatstrip is even there.
Herm
-
Thanks for all the compliments, everyone! We hope to get some good use out it next year, as I'm getting ready to winterize it soon. Hopefully we'll make it as far south as FL again, but it all comes down to where our vacation time balance sits...seems like there's never enough. We usually burn up 10 days every winter on a sailing trip, so that doesn't leave much for camping unfortunately.
BTW, I did confirm that I have the larger Dometic AC unit; however, Robert has generously offered to swap it out for me. I'm still trying to decide whether it's worth the hassle and expense, considering we usually camp at campgrounds with hookups. I just thought it would be nice to have the freedom to camp anywhere with the aid of a small generator. What do you people think...should I let them replace it? The other thing that's making this decision difficult is that I currently have a rather nice digital Dometic thermostat, and based on some photos I've seen the Coleman thermostat looks pretty basic.
Herm
Got Watertight Rooftop Storage ?
in Ollie Modifications
Posted
Maybe it's obvious to others, but what exactly are you storing in there? You're taking about that corrugated black tube with the yellow ends, right?
Herm