Jump to content

herm

Members
  • Content Count

    144
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. I haven't had any monitor problems yet, but I find it annoying that water pump starts sucking air with 13-19% water remaining in the tank (with the trailer level). I assume tipping the trailer back allows you to pump the tank empty. Not really a problem...just an observation. Usually if the tank monitor fails it's due to "debris" on the sensors; however, since you're also having problems with the other functions on the panel, it may be something else. You should know that the battery level reading is not terribly accurate to being with, and I don't consider the readings meaningful unless I haven't been applying a charge or a load to the battery for a several hours. I believe a completely dead battery will display 11.7 volts, but I've never let the battery run down below about 12.2 (which I'm guessing is around 50% charge). I know this doesn't really answer your questions, but I'm sure others will chime in. Herm
  2. DougI, I could be wrong, but I think there is some sort of mechanical adjustment that can be made inside the thermostat. If I remember to take a look at it this weekend and learn anything, I'll let you know. Or, maybe someone else has already checked into this? Herm
  3. Yeah, we got 2 or 3 inches ourselves earlier this week. A little early...but it's all gone now. Herm
  4. I don't have a macerator, but I concur with others that the safest thing is to pour straight RV antifreeze (-50F is typical) into your empty black tank (I don't recommend grey because I find it's harder to ensure that it's completely empty), and pump it out with the macerator. I assume we're talking about just riding out a short-term cold snap in the 20's, where the rest of your plumbing is probably safe in a heated trailer. Anything colder, or if the trailer is not being heated, I would do a full winterization of the plumbing. I provided instructions in a topic a year ago, if you want to see how I do it. In fact, being that it's 30F right now and lows around 30F for the next three nights (and few degrees colder in the suburbs), I'm considering winterizing this weekend. Another camping season has come to an end.
  5. I'm afraid we're no help to you. The only thing we know how to "cook" over a fire is marshmallows and Jiffy Pop. I guess we have a lot to learn. Herm
  6. Just to add to Sherry's comments about the axle comparisons Paul & I made on Monday, it sounds like the defective axles were manufactured with way too much camber. And the replacement axles are likely the same product, just built with the proper (minimal) amount of camber. That's my understanding at this point. Our two trailers did in fact have the same axle product numbers; however, there was a subtle difference in wheel camber. Seadawg's tires met the pavement perfectly square, while mine are slightly leaning out at the top. Since the trailers weren't sitting side by side, it was difficult to compare axle camber in a meaningful way, but it appeared to me that Seadawy's axle was just a tad straighter. It seems that I don't have anywhere near the amount of excessive camber that those with blown or unevenly worn tires have experienced. And it's entirely possible that my axle is within an acceptable range of camber. Only time will tell, and thanks to everyone here, I know what to watch for. Herm
  7. Seadawg, we thoroughly enjoyed your visit as well. But, "grillmeister" is a bit of an exaggeration...seems that the size of the grill really fooled you. We've heard a lot of good things about Asheville, but have never been there. If the timing works out, we might join your little rally. Herm
  8. Pam, I've got #38, and it has the original axle. I don't have unusual tire wear after about 2400 miles, and it's not obvious to me whether or not the amount of camber is within tolerances. When I pointed out the axle camber to my local dealer a few weeks ago, he seemed to think it looked "normal". I may need to get in touch with Oliver in order to determine whether I have an issue or not. I will say that my axle appears to be symmetrical, with equal camber on both wheels. It sort of sounds like the defective ones had excessive camber on only the curbside hub. If I'm reading things correctly, it also sounds like the replacement axles aren't exactly straight, but rather have a very minimal amount of arch/camber to them, which could possibly appear straight once installed on a loaded trailer? Herm
  9. I have to admit, I'm wondering if the cambered/'kinked' axle is going to cause problems for me in the future too. Even when fully loaded, the camber doesn't flatten out, and that concerns me a little. I was led to believe by another forum member that the problem was a defective axle, not an improperly speced axle. This is the first time I've heard that the replacement axle is a straight axle. I'd be curious to know if it carries the same 5,200 lb. rating as the original one. Herm
  10. Oh yeah...forgot about that little breaker on the converter/charger...good suggestion, Seadawg. The only downside is I think you'll also lose the clock and radio presets on the Jensen, but that's only a minor inconvenience. Herm
  11. I'm not saying what I'm using is the "best", but I've been using the Camco products because it is readily available locally and is formaldehyde free. I believe there are even more environmentally-friendly methods out there, but I haven't tried them yet. Even though the Camco green TST has some coconut oil lubricant in it, I have also added the straight coconut oil separately once just for preventative maintenance. I can't say it was necessary, but I don't think it can hurt. Herm
  12. Gail, Your idea of disconnecting the battery between trips is a good one, since you don't have access to shore power. I try not to leave mine unplugged for more than 1-2 weeks max, as the voltage will have dropped to 12.4 by that time. Letting the batteries go completely dead is bad and will shorten their life. The only other option I can think of would be to connect a small, portable solar panel (if you have it stored in a secure outdoor area) to compensate for the continuous draws. Herm
  13. Well, I'm happy to hear that the handling of the trailer with a blown tire is not as horrible as I would have imagined. It seems that the only explaination for the nearly 2 blowouts is defective tires, so naturally it would have been nice to establish exactly what they were. I too was a bit leary of the chinese made BCT's, which were the standard tires at the time, but they've served me well so far. Thanks to JuniorBirdMan, I now know they will survive the Texas heat too. When getting hub temps, are you just measuring crome cap that covers the actual hub? I've always wanted to get one of those infrared thermometers, but never had a legitimate need for one. Now I do! Herm
  14. I guess now you'll need to expand your "states visited" map? Have fun in Canada, and we look forward to seeing you when you make your way through MN. Herm
  15. Thanks for sharing your experience, DCK. I too would love to know what brand/model tire is was that blew out. I haven't had any problems with my BCT load range D tires, but I don't think they've ever seen 100 degree temps yet. Since I've never experienced a blow out before, I'd be curious to know how difficult it was to bring the trailer to a stop (and from what speed). Herm
×
×
  • Create New...