DavePhelps
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Posts posted by DavePhelps
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23 hours ago, csevel said:
Dave,
What is your asking price for the charger? I bought one off of Ebay from Canada that included the 'Li' switch for lithium.. however, I'm disappointed because after install, I still have a high pitch sound coming from it when under load from lights, etc. I'm not sure if it was a defective part but I'm not going to go through the hassle of return.
I will mail it out to anyone who could use it FREE of charge.
PM me with your address if you are interested!Dave
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2 hours ago, MAX Burner said:
Just curious, @DavePhelps: does it have the "Li" switch for using with LiFePO batts?
Yes it does! You can see it in the bottom left of the pic. It's a small switch.
Dave
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Greetings all,
I bought this 30 amp charger from Etrailer a while back when I was planning to convert to Lithium batteries.
My plans changed in the end and I ended up using all Victron components. I'm sure it's too late to return it now.
So, if any one out there could use this brand new and never used/installed PD 30 amp converter/charger, I will mail it to you free of charge.
It does have the Lithium switch.Model Number
PD4045CSV
Serial Number
A24225FO325851
Cheers,
Dave
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Glad you discovered the problem.
Regarding the water filter o-ring, I like to lube it with a small amount of silicone based plumber's grease. It helps with the seal and keeps the o-ring in good shape. Also, don't over tighten the filter screen housing. Firm hand tight is all that is needed. No tools!
Cheers,Dave
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On 6/28/2025 at 1:21 PM, routlaw said:
I was starting to become a bit concerned regarding the reduced payload capacity at first due to the additional weight of the onboard battery but given how we travel I think the Powerboost will be fine.
I've read that the PB Platinum models have a payload capacity around 1250 lbs. The Lariat will be a bit more, but not sure how much. Do your calculations and be safe! Cargo weight adds up in a hurry with just the most basic things (passengers, canopy, hitch/mudflaps, tongue weight...)
The 6.5" bed would be what I would pick for many reasons including the longer wheelbase, which will improve your ride.
Living in the great state of Wyoming, and the inter-Mountain West, if I was towing with only a 30 gallon gas tank, I'd for sure carry an extra 5 gallons in the back. My tank is 36 gallons and I have already needed it! Good luck and hope the new truck works well for you.Dave
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So the rear Oliver lense strikes again....
I would also check those marker lights. The one under the O of the Oliver sign especially. If it leaks, the water would run down its supply wire where it looks like it touches your TV cables. The water would then continue down that cable and into the cabin. All those wires up there with no drip loops designed in are are major pathway for water to travel to far off places. I had drips out my rear speaker from one of those marker lights....
Cheers,Dave
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That connection can be a sticky one and I've had the same issue.
What works for me is to keep the leg attached at the floor, position yourself facing the window, up against the table, back straight, and give that table a good quick lift.
If it comes free I would recommend paraffin over trusty WD-40 to lubricate the connection. On my leg, it's just a plastic cap over the aluminum leg with a single metal spring clip. Rub the paraffin all over that and you should be good to go. Don't be afraid to reef on that connection to get it to come off.Good luck.
Dave
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The FWT drain is at best slow draining given the design constraints of the system.
One issue that can make it much worse is when bits of plastic end up inside the tank from drilling the various holes and not meticulously cleaning it out before installing. I have had these bits bunch up at the tank outlet and at the drain valve. When I added my new water supply draw tube, I cleaned and vacuumed out the tank best I could, and cleaned out the drain valve while I was in there as well. Now, not really wanting to go through that all over again, if it seems plugged up, I'll take my air compressor and blow up the outflow tube (30psi is good) into the tank. This usually clears the occlusions long enough to let the tank drain more normally, which is still slower than I'd like.
Hope that works for you.Dave
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21 hours ago, jd1923 said:
Love that I have over 3 years for this cost, and again thank you. 😂
It is my understanding that propane tanks under 100 pounds have 12 years before they need to be re-certified.
So you have until 06/2030! 👍Dave
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Here's a pic of a couple of "dummy" 200 amp/hr Victrons mocked up in my tray to see if they would fit.
Dave
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21 hours ago, jd1923 said:
Given this statement, why spend much more money than the 300AH Epoch, going to 400AH Victron batteries? Without an inverter these AHs are overkill! It's difficult to use 100AH running 12VDC only let alone 3-400AH. Your batteries will likely sit above 90% SOC most of the time. Another way of looking at it is you could stay off-grid and wait a week or longer for a sunny day!
Well, plans change! After deciding this whole conversion project was above my pay grade, I spent some time talking with my local solar company reps about my system. I have run out of battery several times with my old AGM's when camping off grid where the sun was rarely seen. Rain and gray here in the PNW, especially in the shoulder seasons. For my current needs, the 400 amp/hr Victron will have more than 3 times the power available to me compared to my old AGM's. Maybe overkill. But looking to the future where I may be getting a compressor fridge (when my 3 way gives up the ghost) then things start to even out. As far as I know, this is the most power one can pack in to the Elite 1 while maintaining the OEM battery box and tray. I also changed my mind and am getting a Victron inverter/charger. Mostly for the better charging compatibility with the Victron batteries. We'll see how this all pans out. The components are expensive but I believe Victron makes a quality product with stellar representation. Pics will be forthcoming when this all gets completed for Elite 1 owners (and anyone else) who may be interested.
Cheers,
Dave
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3 hours ago, 2008RN said:
Thats a horse of a different color. A return vent in the bathroom would make sense in the Elite I, since there is no Hot air output vent in the bathroom.
Not sure if there have been changes since my 2015 Elite 1 was built, but it has an hot air supply in the bathroom. Even still, a return air vent under the sink makes very good sense.
Dave
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I would recommend cutting in a small 4" return vent under the TP holder. I think this area would be good with no water intrusion from showering. At least, I have never noticed this area to be wet after I take a shower, ymmv. Not sure of your model or year, there have been changes made.
I don't get the closet vent at all. It is a separate space from the under sink area. I would rather have a return vent move air directly from the bathroom into that space, not from the cabin, to the closet, to the under sink area. I had great success adding new return vents in the rear of my trailer (my furnace is under the front dinette seat). I blocked off the OEM vent which was right next to the furnace. I had substantial temp increases between the hulls. I have also wanted to put one in the bathroom as well but got sidetracked with a pile of other projects. It is now on the short list however.
Good luck.
Dave
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21 hours ago, ADKCamper said:
Our 2018 Elite I battery bay overall dimensions (without the tray installed) are 17-1/4" wide x 11-3/4"H x 18"D (only 11-1/4"H where the 1/2" aluminum block hangs down for the door latch). The tray inside dimensions are 14"W x 14-1/8"D x 11"H (10-1/2"H where the 1/2" aluminum block hangs down for the door latch).
Epoch 460's (either variant) will still not fit, even with the battery tray removed.
Should be able to fit two Epoch 300's without the tray, or one Epoch 300 with the tray. There's only 1/2" clearance for cable/lug above the battery when using the tray... which *may* require laying the single Epoch 300A battery on its side to provide sufficient clearance for a fat cable on top.
Also note that a "without the tray" configuration will require engineering an alternate method for holding the battery(s) down.
My battery box tray is the same as your on my 2015 Legacy 1 trailer, 14.25" X 14.25" X 11"
I was ready to go with the Epoch battery but pivoted after consulting with a local solar company. I am now getting 2 of the Victron 200 amp/hr batteries. They fit beautifully in my tray, and together will give me 400 amp/hrs of battery power ( well, almost).These batteries have a remote BMS, so the room in the battery where the BMS is normally located can be used for more Lithium cells and/or the batteries can be comparatively smaller with more available energy than other brands. Not cheap by any means. The batteries are expensive and then you also have to purchase the BMS module separately. For me and my needs however, it was worth it.
I also elected to have this outfit do the install for me. The whole project just grew way beyond my comfort zone for a DIY job. After seeing their part list for the job, I'm really glad I'm going this way. My hat is off to all you folks who took this on yourself. You saved yourself a pile of money! When completed, I'll post a review with pics.
Cheers,
Dave
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Had similar issues with my Legacy1 trailer. Washboarded roads really puts these connections to the test.
I had Oliver send me some extra clips which I added in addition to the OEM clips. One or two per shade as I recall. I then used thin nylon washers to shim the clips out so they were all in plane and fully engaged the groove on the back of the frame (use a straightedge). Since then, I have also started towing with all shades in the up position (both sheer and blackout pulled up). This puts the drawbars (?) at the top of the shade frame, placing a little more weight at the top of the frame and not stressing out the clips as much. So far so good.
Dave
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Don't have a Clam shelter, but have been snug as a bug in my little legacy1 in very high winds. I can't imagine any of these shelters are up to the task of the high intensity winds and micro blasts of the inter-mountain West and other areas. Best to take them down at night. Also, there is a pretty good app called Windy that gives detailed wind information, both current and projected, worth looking in to.
Dave
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40 minutes ago, CRM said:
That main stack is needed to vent gases. An AAV on the stack would cause those gases to back up into the cabin.
Thanks for that. Now that I've thought this through, I can see that in this case, ability to vent both in and out would be best.
Dave
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Looking forward to your renovation JD.
You could add more solar panels up there if needed.Regarding the vent. I wonder if it could be replaced with an Air Admittance Valve inside the trailer. That would clean the slate up on the roof.
My vent goes up through the closet, a great place to put the AAV. Used them a lot in residential plumbing to solve difficult routing issues in old homes.
Any plumbers out there to comment? I know Oliver already uses one to vent the kitchen sink, so why not the main stack?Good luck and like your new scaffold!
Cheers,
Dave
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I have what rich.dev showed above and has worked great. Otherwise zip ties as Mike and Carole suggested.
56 minutes ago, DaveAndBecky_NorthernMI said:I find if I twist mine it makes it more taut and doesn't hang so low. Same for chains. I've always worried low hanging chains and brake cable could create a spark and possibly fire in dry conditions.
Twisting chains to adjust length is not recommended and can dramatically reduce their strength. Best to cut them to the required length with no twist!
Dave
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Revitalizing this thread with just a few more questions!
Yes, here I am again.....
Charger converter is 45A. All new wire will be 4awg.
Still considering either the 1, 300amp Epoch or 2, 100amp Battle Borns....
My new block plan including the solar details.
1. Should I replace the OEM 30A breaker between the SCC and the battery with an 30A anl fuse? If I keep the breaker, how would you orient the aux/battery connections?
2. Given these new Lithium batteries have their own EMS, do I no longer need the OEM temp. sensor wire between battery and SCC? It's easy to keep but don't want to create data conflicts.
3. Where to put a battery disconnect switch? Between the battery and the shunt? Assuming the negative lead is the correct one to switch. Is this step even necessary?
Any other comments very much appreciated. 🙏
Also included for your viewing pleasure is a pic of one of my leads off the battery. I sure hope Oliver has gotten a hold of better electricians. There are other crimps showing similar lack of attention. Any of you find similar crimps during your retrofits?
Dave
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A quick internet search revealed that 14-16 inch pounds is the correct terminal screw torque spec. But to be sure, I'd contact Furrion or whoever made your new plug to verify.
I'll be checking mine now! Glad you didn't sustain too much damage.
Dave
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3 hours ago, Coddiwomple said:
I just spoke to Derek at Hutch Mountain and he asked me to post this to clear up a misunderstanding. When installing their propane conversion kit, it is required that the large Demand Regulator is still used when connecting to the onboard LP quick disconnect.
Thanks for posting that! I was wondering if the regulator size was different. It makes good sense that it is. Curious that if one connects to the trailer's onboard LP quick connect, the propane is still regulated by the lower flow Oliver regulator.
I would think that you would still need a stand alone tank that had the high flow regulator separate from Oliver's lower flow regulated system. That's how I plan to run mine anyway.1 hour ago, ADKCamper said:Either way you'll need both receptacles; absent an additional Y-adapter of some kind... one receptacle to power the camper load and the other for the neutral/ground shorting plug to keep the Progressive Industries surge protector/power quality checker happy 🙂
This is very true for the newer Oliver trailers with the built in PI EMS. My 2015 Oliver has no EMS built in so I don't need the neutral/ground plug. I have the portable PI EMS, but would not be using it while boondocking and using the generator.
Please correct me if I'm wrong!-
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1 hour ago, jd1923 said:
If I was to run a generator it would be LP only. I would not want to carry gasoline in the TV since it is explosive and smelly, some always spills when I fill tard tools or you need a funnel that will also smell like gas. I would not want the generator to ever have the smell of gas. Also, gasoline as produced and sold today is of rather low quality.
This is all true JD. But I am also thinking emergency use of the generator at home where options of multiple fuel use would be an advantage. While having fun in my Oliver, I would only ever run the generator on propane for all the reasons you mentioned, and a few more! I also try to never run ethanol gas in any of my gas powered tools. Only high octane non-ethanol gas is used. Where I live, it is pretty easy to find. There is also a website that will list local "pure gas" locations in your area.
Dave
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Once we had the spade connector at the water pump switch come loose. So that is another area for checking out if this happens to anyone else.
Glad you solved your problem.Dave
Progressive Dynamics Converter/Charger needs home
in General Discussion
Posted
Right you are! I was thinking of the service rating for the trailer. It is a 45 amp charger.
Hope someone could use this. I was hoping to keep it "in the family"!
Cheers,
Dave