DavePhelps

Had similar issues with my Legacy1 trailer. Washboarded roads really puts these connections to the test. I had Oliver send me some extra clips which I added in addition to the OEM clips. One or two per shade as I recall. I then used thin nylon washers to shim the clips out so they were all in plane and fully engaged the groove on the back of the frame (use a straightedge). Since then, I have also started towing with all shades in the up position (both sheer and blackout pulled up). This puts the drawbars (?) at the top of the shade frame, placing a little more weight at the top of the frame and not stressing out the clips as much. So far so good. Dave

Don't have a Clam shelter, but have been snug as a bug in my little legacy1 in very high winds. I can't imagine any of these shelters are up to the task of the high intensity winds and micro blasts of the inter-mountain West and other areas. Best to take them down at night. Also, there is a pretty good app called Windy that gives detailed wind information, both current and projected, worth looking in to. Dave

Thanks for that. Now that I've thought this through, I can see that in this case, ability to vent both in and out would be best. Dave

Looking forward to your renovation JD. You could add more solar panels up there if needed. Regarding the vent. I wonder if it could be replaced with an Air Admittance Valve inside the trailer. That would clean the slate up on the roof. My vent goes up through the closet, a great place to put the AAV. Used them a lot in residential plumbing to solve difficult routing issues in old homes. Any plumbers out there to comment? I know Oliver already uses one to vent the kitchen sink, so why not the main stack? Good luck and like your new scaffold! Cheers, Dave

I have what rich.dev showed above and has worked great. Otherwise zip ties as Mike and Carole suggested. Twisting chains to adjust length is not recommended and can dramatically reduce their strength. Best to cut them to the required length with no twist! Dave

Revitalizing this thread with just a few more questions! Yes, here I am again..... Charger converter is 45A. All new wire will be 4awg. Still considering either the 1, 300amp Epoch or 2, 100amp Battle Borns.... My new block plan including the solar details. 1. Should I replace the OEM 30A breaker between the SCC and the battery with an 30A anl fuse? If I keep the breaker, how would you orient the aux/battery connections? 2. Given these new Lithium batteries have their own EMS, do I no longer need the OEM temp. sensor wire between battery and SCC? It's easy to keep but don't want to create data conflicts. 3. Where to put a battery disconnect switch? Between the battery and the shunt? Assuming the negative lead is the correct one to switch. Is this step even necessary? Any other comments very much appreciated. 🙏 Also included for your viewing pleasure is a pic of one of my leads off the battery. I sure hope Oliver has gotten a hold of better electricians. There are other crimps showing similar lack of attention. Any of you find similar crimps during your retrofits? Dave

A quick internet search revealed that 14-16 inch pounds is the correct terminal screw torque spec. But to be sure, I'd contact Furrion or whoever made your new plug to verify. I'll be checking mine now! Glad you didn't sustain too much damage. Dave

Thanks for posting that! I was wondering if the regulator size was different. It makes good sense that it is. Curious that if one connects to the trailer's onboard LP quick connect, the propane is still regulated by the lower flow Oliver regulator. I would think that you would still need a stand alone tank that had the high flow regulator separate from Oliver's lower flow regulated system. That's how I plan to run mine anyway. This is very true for the newer Oliver trailers with the built in PI EMS. My 2015 Oliver has no EMS built in so I don't need the neutral/ground plug. I have the portable PI EMS, but would not be using it while boondocking and using the generator. Please correct me if I'm wrong!

This is all true JD. But I am also thinking emergency use of the generator at home where options of multiple fuel use would be an advantage. While having fun in my Oliver, I would only ever run the generator on propane for all the reasons you mentioned, and a few more! I also try to never run ethanol gas in any of my gas powered tools. Only high octane non-ethanol gas is used. Where I live, it is pretty easy to find. There is also a website that will list local "pure gas" locations in your area. https://www.pure-gas.org/ Dave

Once we had the spade connector at the water pump switch come loose. So that is another area for checking out if this happens to anyone else. Glad you solved your problem. Dave

Yes! Thanks for bringing that up. If you want to run the generator on propane only, this could be true. But if you want dual fuel capability, then you'll need the kit. Rethinking the Hutch Mountain kit now in favor of the kit made by Grenergy. If you watch the install videos on YouTube, I think the Grenergy system is much better thought through, with better components. I'm also rethinking the need for the Companion model. The 30 amp plug would be necessary if running two generators in series, but for one gen, the two 20amp plugs would be fine. Dave

I put this on 6 or 7 years ago and it still looks like new. Check the thickness of your cover to be sure the trim will fit. There are different grip ranges available. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QAJJJ3Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&th=1

🙏🙏

Oh, forgot to add. After years of being anti-generator, I am softening my view. Especially for very early and late season camping where my solar setup can struggle after days of rain and low light. Currently considering the Honda EU 2200i Companion. The companion model has a 30 amp plug (as well as a standard 20amp) so no adapters needed for my Oliver supplied shore power cord. AC is not really a thought for me, have hardly ever used it. But if that changed, I'd get the soft start for that. I'd also convert the generator to propane with the Hutch Mountain kit, which has gotten very good reviews. As little as I would need the generator, propane would be a better choice over gas. https://www.hutchmountain.com/products/honda-eu2200i-propane-natural-gas-gasoline-tri-fuel-conversion-kit?srsltid=AfmBOop2BOyh5idW05vUOtzKeU9wfC8jIVGVypoD-M00sGuc3CFgqsxA Dave

Although hideously expensive, one could get an aluminum 30# propane tank, which, if I recall correctly, weighs the same (when full) as a steel 20 # tank. A lot of $$ though, but could be worth it for someone's special requirements. https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/30-lb-7-1-gallon-vertical-aluminum-lp-tank-vts-169/ And yes, as has been mentioned, the Elite 1 will only fit 2 20# tanks. Running out of propane has never been an issue with me. The stuff lasts a long time! Dave