DavePhelps

Well, looking at the diagram posted by Topgun2, I am unsure what to say! Looks to be 4 valves on the newer models! I have no idea how they configure. Glad to only have two! Mine are three way valves by the way, and they have been simple and effective. Curious to hear how AKPilot's hull is configured as its 3 hulls newer than Topgun's. Maybe the E1's are plumbed a little differently because of space constraints....

My Legacy 1 is close in age to yours, 2015 hull 107. I'm wondering if your water valves are configured correctly. Mine has only 2 valves. At some point Oliver went to three. If you have the two valve system, the "handles" on both should be oriented front to back of trailer. This would be the general use setup, which would include using the water pump while boondocking, or city water hookup. If you turn both valves 90 degrees (side to side of trailer), then the siphon inlet at the rear curbside will be engaged. You would then siphon water from an external canister or whatever and fill your fresh water tank. Turn the valves back when ready to use the system. That's how it works for me anyway. Dave

Don't forget that diesel engines and their ancillary equipment are much heavier than gas engines. That extra weight reduces your payload. With two exact trucks, one diesel and one gas, the gas truck will have around 800 +/- pounds more payload than the diesel.. Which for me personally, if payload was an issue, I would purchase a one ton diesel and not a 3/4 ton. Like Taylor.Coyote said, carefully assess your payload requirements! I must say I'm loving my gas 3/4 ton GMC. Just came down Cabbage Hill out of Pendleton, OR (I84), a six mile 6% grade, and didn't use the brakes once. I have the E1 however. Dave

Ron, My gate valve and the popup drain plug were all installed by Oliver. I've done nothing aftermarket save for removing the popup plug so I could use the mushroom plug. That screw should come out and your drain will look like mine. Try some PB Blaster lube on it. You could also try warming it up a bit to help the lube penetrate. Give it a few hours to work. That gate valve should stop any backflow. If you're still having that issue, then it is not closing properly. When you pull the handle do you feel some resistance? When it is pushed in does the shower drain still work or does it back up? (it should back up) If it just pulls out and pushes in with no resistance then the wire that attaches to the valve has probably come loose as Galway Girl mentioned. Unfortunately, for you and me, to access that valve, afaik, would mean removing the furnace. I would call Oliver and see if there is an easier way! Maybe that gate valve is somewhere else, I just have never been able to locate it. Hopefully the cable is still attached and the valve just need a good clean and lube. Hair is a real PITA with these valves, which is why I installed the mushroom plug in the shower. Good luck and let me know what you find out. Dave

Hey Ron, I've been offline traveling so sorry for late reply. I have hull 107, made 2015 so very close to yours! Do you not have the pull out handle for the shower drain gate valve in the bathroom? It looks like you do from your pic (it's on the right). Unfortunately, to access the valve itself, it looks to me like the furnace needs to be pulled. If you follow the cable, at least mine disappears under the furnace to parts unknown. Can't even get a light and mirror in that space.... I replaced my popup drain stopper with a Tub Shroom to catch any hair going down the drain to help keep the valve clean and I will say it has worked incredibly well: https://www.amazon.com/TubShroom-Revolutionary-Protector-Catcher-Strainer/dp/B01M0H7YC2/ref=sr_1_8?crid=12WS1LAY6YT97&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.g8t4bB4wE-ABrU2hIjG-OEf59IQDu4YYj74RxX4gRTRMO-pNC5YzIDgcdARM5gMkt3BeoqbZvhjC0tEboU3X7mtiNc5Z-RuOWtb48vaBAqBemKsaHlvIQ0yMVjT0EJE7b0NP8hNY4YhGsjs5sSIKkPnJokl_r4VPmEE919PljlNOccutEWvd_mtBsH4awR_DWdJz-VVEcBM33jVmOLN1eGtG4qOFgCW63nZ9_6rJ96Fo2y-rjo-OmLI_PFTg3Re2afIJ1G0H9gbnuK0IwlIAxxNYxKU-XUNAqircRMWU3DM.u6_Bk5YtKMGcGJKZ5RPjLbh4mWNzQwDDzzt0RzCjLnk&dib_tag=se&keywords=mushroom%2Bdrain%2Bhair%2Bcatcher&qid=1790815043&sprefix=mushroom%2Bdrain%2Caps%2C672&sr=8-8&th=1 That popup drain plug was not up for the job of resisting back flow, so the gate valve was added. I've never had a backup so far. Not sure but I may also have that HEPvO valve Bugeyed Driver was talking about. I have a vague memory about Jason telling me about it. I add gate valve lubricant to the drain maybe twice a year as I want to keep the valve happy as it's inaccessible. Push the handle in to close the valve like all the others while on the road! Not sure what else to add. If you do have the gate valve, run some house pressure hose water down the drain to try and clean it out and then pour some lubricant down the drain and work the valve open and closed to lubricate it well. A call to Oliver might enlighten you as the type of drain they used for your model. I think they were experimenting with different systems around that time so yours may be different than even mine. Good luck! Dave

What JD said. I'll have to try lifting the curbside of the trailer next dump. But I will say that because of all the afore mentioned design characteristics of the Gray tank, it is very slow to drain! Aren't the gray tanks also "L" shaped?? Which is why a curbside lift is a great idea to help things along. One thing I do is to open the back flow valve in the bathroom to help let more air in the tank when draining, I don't think there is a trap on that drain, seems to help. Dave

Craig, I would caution you about using paint to touch up your Oliver. Paint and Gelcoat are two entirely different coatings. I would suggest a quick google search or a visit to some boating forums to learn about the process of repairing damaged gelcoat. You didn't specify your issues, but if they are rock dings and such, I would not paint them. Paint will not age well, doesn't have the build of gelcoat, and cannot be polished with the rest of the trailer when that time comes (and it will). You will need to apply your 2 part gelcoat (it can be tinted and is a catalyzed product) to a properly prepared surface. Overfill slightly, wet sand flush, then polish out. Yes, it's a lot more labor than spraying on a coat of paint, but will give you far superior and much longer lasting results. My 2 cents. Dave

This is always a difficult question to answer as an "adequate" towing experience means different things to different people. Your 4Runner will be on the edge of safe towing in my opinion. You will be always having to worry about payload (895+ pounds?) Count on your tongue weight for a fully loaded Elite 1 being at least 400 lbs. Then add passenger weight, hitch weight, cargo weight, and any other add ons. Next, the 4Runner has a relatively short wheelbase which hinders stability, especially in wind. Braking on long mountainous descents will be harder and much scarier as the small displacement turbo gas engine in the 4Runner will not be able to deliver much vacuum braking (not like compression braking in a diesel) and you will be on your brakes a lot more. In fact, I've read turbo gas engines produce less vacuum braking than naturally aspirated gas engines due to their comparitively smaller displacement and lower compression ratios. The Oliver1 is a small trailer, but heavy for its size. You can try it and see how it goes, but every person I know who started out with a light TV eventually got at least a 1/2 ton truck/SUV or more. I tow my Elite 1 with a 3/4 ton truck and just love it. No drama, just a peaceful driving experience. You also need to consider how your TV would handle an emergency like a flat tire, or an animal running out in front of you, not to mention all the jack wagon drivers on the road these days. The Inter-Mountain West you describe as your target area is great country, but can be challenging for towing. One last item that comes to mind is that your range will be pretty limited with only a 19 gallon gas tank. Some things to ponder.... It's a great vehicle, but you'll be running it at its limit. My 2 cents! Good luck! Dave

I would personally stay away from the pipe cleaners. My main worry is the wire core might rust and streak your trailer. Paracord for the win! Its kernmantle construction wicks water very well. Google it! It also has tons of uses around camp. I think most every hardware store carries some form of it. Get the 1/8" version. Paracord Planet is a good online resource, I think they have an Amazon store.... Dave

I posted this pic a couple years ago in another leaky window thread. Those weep slots are just not up to the task of keeping water from building up in the tracks (capillary attraction really hinders water flow). Folks talked about using pipe cleaners and lantern wicks to help wick out the water (maybe they work as well) but I find that 1/8" paracord works great. Cut some 3" lengths and stuff them in the slots. It's amazing how well they work! Don't heat seal the ends! Easy to replace and everyone has some paracord around right? Some may think it's kind of ugly looking but better than a wet bed! Cheers, Dave

Man this is a real mystery. So glad it ended well and that you and yours are safe! I have been reading all the posts trying to make sense of how this could happen, especially to a Bulldog hitch. If the hitch lever was indeed pinned in place and didn't pop open when you hit that bump, then the options become limited. Some thoughts about this: You didn't show the ball in your pics, but I would have a close look at it for clues, including the possibility that it was out of spec and not the correct size. Or that from lack of lubrication, it was "ground down" to be out of round. This is unlikely but worth checking. If the ball doesn't give up any clues, I would check the pin on the Bulldog that creates the hinge that holds the two clamping pieces together. Do the two halve come together as they should? Did the pin somehow get bent increasing the closed opening of the hitch around the ball? It's just hard to imagine a Bulldog letting go of the ball like that if all was in spec. I assume your hitch setup with your TV is nice and flat, not nose up or down. Just throwing out these ideas to try and figure this out. Hope you will let us know what you find out. Definitely take JD's advice and get a new hitch! Sizing up would be good as you would get a new ball as well. Again, glad everyone is OK, and kudos to you for keeping control of your rig. Cheers, Dave

One other possibility is that if you fully drained your FWT for winterizing, the water pump may be sucking air because the siphon tube in the tank is not in water. This was an issue with the earlier Olivers (pre siphon tube) before they changed the design. Dave

Oops, forgot the part #: PR1022. But Check your door. My door is 11 years old! Dave

Just in case no one looked at Zarcor's website, the glass sold there is a Lippert product for their doors. My older Oliver Lippert door (2015) used screws to hold the window trim and the glass in place (along with some butyl weatherstrip). The newer doors use clips which complicate the switch but is still very doable. There are a few Youtube videos out there which I would advise watching if your door uses the clip system. The window I used from Zarcor was Tinted Glass, Lippert Style A, Valterra Style C Glass size: 21 7/16" × 12 7/16", Fits frame style A I would call them with your door information and they will set you up. The kit comes with the glass and butyl so nothing else to buy except maybe some spare clips if your door is that style, I've read that they can sometimes break during disassembly. Good luck! Cheers, Dave

I replaced my Opaque door glass with a clear tinted one from Zarcor. Really like it. Make sure to order the glass specific to the door used on your Oliver. There were changes made over the years that affect the glass specs. Their Airstream shades also have my attention.... https://www.zarcor.com/rv_products/rv-door-window-kit/spare-parts.php Dave