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DavePhelps last won the day on January 3

DavePhelps had the most liked content!

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My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Year
  • Model
    Legacy Elite
  • Floor Plan
    Standard Floor Plan
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  1. Yes, the older trailers had the Bargman fixtures. https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=Bargman+Porch+Light+Lens I replaced mine and sealed them with butyl tape. Don't get any solvent on that plastic "chrome" or it will come off. The amber lenses are awesome. Dave
  2. Oops, posted in wrong spot.
  3. Is this what you guys are talking about? https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=Bargman+Porch+Light+Lens The Bargman fixtures are what came on our 2015 Elite. They came with clear lenses but I swapped them out. I really like the amber lenses!! They are also available on Amazon. As far as the new fixtures go, I can't say. Dave Dave
  4. Yea, I saw that upper eyebolt right off. Ughh. You want to keep well away from rigs like that. Really, I think any passing Police Officer should ticket the owners of such negligent and dangerous setups. Dave
  5. Well it depends on how much you take with you and what accessories you have loaded on to your truck. For example, for my still unpurchased new truck, I use this personal list: Elite 1 tongue weight: 450 lbs (the Elite 2 is around 600 lbs for most I believe) 2 adult passengers: 300 lbs (generous for us wee folk) Truck topper on the back: 200 lbs Spray in bed liner and a mat: 100 lbs (guessing here) Canoe and rack on top: 50 lbs So adding all this up, before I have even put any cargo in the truck, I have accumulated 1100 lbs of payload weight! With the Elite 2, I would have 1250 lbs. This is how fast payload adds up, and each person needs to do an assessment of their particular needs and weights. Adding higher load rated tires, or airbags, or other "load enhancement" devices will not increase your payload capacity as it is written on the sticker of your door jamb. A double cab Tundra 4X4 Limited, with the 6.5 bed (my preferred setup) has a payload of 1570 lbs. The SR5 is 1630 lbs, so not much more. There is just not a lot to play payload wise with the 1/2 tons. Ford does better with their F-150 and they also offer a Heavy Duty Payload Package, but not on the Limited and above trims...go figure. As much as I don't want to drive a big HD pickup, that may be where I am heading, especially because we may someday move up to the larger Elite 2. I'd love to get the Tundra but am worried I'd overload it (based on the stickers). Maybe the Ford F-150 with the HDPP would do it. Dave
  6. Someone please chime in if I am incorrect here, but payload is calculated by subtracting the vehicle's Curb Weight (which includes the extra weight of all included options), from the vehicle's GVWR. While upgrading the P-metric tires (on the 1/2 ton trucks) to LT E load rated tires has many positive benefits, and is a good idea for towing, it will do nothing to change the payload rating. The GVWR is based on the frame strength, axle weight ratings, etc. I don't see how the tires factor in to that. For example, the axles and frame will be weighted the same whichever tire you use. I've been in the market for a new TV and the Olivers are kind of right on the edge weight wise between the 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks regarding payload. Makes for a hard choice, but either way, I don't see a truck having a payload below 1600 lbs, or more preferably, as being a suitable TV for an Oliver. That is for my particular use and ease of mind, for safety and keeping myself protected from liability in the event of an accident. YMMV. Very curious if Dodge will amend their payload sticker based on different tires. Dave
  7. A section of the chrome strip between the bathroom sink and toilet started to come loose. I used This tape to reattach it. It has held up great. Be sure to clean the area well before taping (remove all old tape residue with MEK), and then use 3M 4298 adhesion promoter as a "primer" so the tape bonds even better. You can buy them both together on Amazon. Dave
  8. What I have read is that 400 ft lbs of torque is available starting at only 1500 rpm. Looks to be a great engine for those not wanting/needing a diesel. Hope the mileage is respectable. It's floating to the top of my new TV want list.... Dave
  9. No problem John. I was happy to stumble across it. Very well presented and informative I thought. There's a lot to learn maintaining our trailers! Dave
  10. Routlaw, Check out this video, very informative. I think all you have to do for access is remove the exterior cover. The exhaust port tube slip fits into the furnace inside so just slide it out gently, then remove the large cover. But verify with Jason first!! I've not opened mine up all the way like this yet. Check out the LED flashing on the board, the codes are in the manual you should have gotten from Oliver: 1 flash w/3 second pause: limit switch, airflow problems 2 flashes w/ 3 second pause: flame sense fault 3 flashes w/ 3 second pause: Ignition lockout fault Dave
  11. Hmm. On my Elite1, the furnace is under the front dinette seat. All the electrical connections are on top of the unit. Don't know about the Elite2. Definitely give Jason a call. If the fan turns on before the igniter tries to light the burner, as it should, then perhaps your Tstat is OK. Hopefully someone else will chime in with more ideas. Good luck. Dave
  12. Hey Routlaw, All of my electrical issues have been with bad connections so I would start there. Oliver really should be using adhesive lined heat shrink connectors, given the nature of the environment these connectors live in, ie, moisture, dust, vibration. But alas. The 12v supply wire to my furnace had bare wire sticking out of one end of the crimp connectors.... So check to be sure all are tight, tape any bare wire with electrical tape to avoid potential shorting. Also check the frame ground, which is a female spade connector (it's attached to back of furnace, closest to exterior wall in the center). Since your furnace works intermittently, that suggests to me that there is a bad connection somewhere. The piezo igniter should also be checked, but can't tell you offhand where that is, I'll have to go and look. I'd give Jason a call and see what he says. I'm no electrician, but these have been my experiences. Dave ps: I'd also pull out the thermostat and check the connections on that end as well.
  13. That works! As Townesw posted above, however, the coupler lock is pretty easy to defeat if one has a mind to do so. What is important is that it is securely locked down when under way, any way you choose to do it. Dave
  14. This is very true indeed. I do feel though that perception is a key element to deterrence. One can take it as far as they are comfortable doing so. Dave
  15. I use these two locks for the hitch (lever) and the receiver: https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Pins-and-Clips/DeadBolt/40107.html https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coupler-Locks/DeadBolt/RC2SS.html You can get them keyed alike which is very convenient. The receiver lock is available in a longer length but it's not stainless steel. The coupler lock in the 1/2" length works great on the Bulldog lever. The fit is snug so there is no exposed lock pin that someone might be able to get a bolt cutter around. I like using the coupler lock when traveling so no one can mess with the coupler if I'm parked to shop or whatever. They both have worked very well with no sign of wear or corrosion. Good luck! Dave
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