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Posts posted by Dean

  1. You better get that clarification from Oliver and Life Blue.  My interpretation based on the warranties online there is no warranty.

    The limited parts warranty covers this RV for a period of two (2) years from the date of purchase by the original retail purchaser. The limited warranty covers manufacturer's defects in material and workmanship on parts manufactured and installed by Oliver.

    6. This Limited Warranty does not cover batteries sold by LiFeBlue or any authorized distributor or dealer to an Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM). Please contact the OEM directly for warranty claims.


  2. 8 hours ago, Susan Huff said:

    So Oliver does install the breaker switch?  

    I would like to discuss further, but am in the midst of canning peaches right now.  

    As we are still deciding which solar option to order - AGM or Lithium - it all comes down to which system will be less trouble.  We do dry camp often; with our current RV system (2-6v flooded deep cycle batteries, 200w solar and 1000w inverter) we have to continually monitor the batteries, even though we don't use a lot of power (no inverter use and onboard generator occasionally).  Under these conditions, our solar panels mostly keep the batteries topped off, depending on weather conditions. 

    That being said, here are some of my thoughts:

    1.  The Oliver lithium solar package would supply more power than we currently use.  Not to say we wouldn't use more if we had it.  We camp about 50/50 hookup/boondock but prefer boondocking as we enjoy remote outdoor camping vs RV resorts and overpopulated state parks.  

    2. The upfront cost is greater, but recovered over life of the batteries.  Cost is no object if our RV experience can be more enjoyable without having to think so much about batteries. 

    3. Our energy needs will change with the Oliver.  Our motorhome is not 4-season, so it stays parked, for the most part, 4 mos out of the year. 

    Just having more power is attractive, but less power management  is our goal.  Our decision rests on this factor more than the availabilty of onboard power.  It's nice to have reliable power when camping off-grid, but we there are still other limiting factors, the biggest being waste water holding capacty.  I've read about the differences in lead-acid vs lithium, but without experience with lithium power we'd like to know if we will see a big difference in the management of our batteries.

    I'll send you a message when I'm done canning peaches.  I do have a lot of questions, especially how lithium batteries are managed during down time.

    Thanks for reaching out.

     I don’t see how anyone could recover the cost of the lithium batteries.  They will reduce the dry weight by 140 lbs and increase stored energy by 33% eliminating management for those camping between the spring and fall equinox  Expanding the camping season ( the shorter days, less direct light and increased furnace use) make the lithium batteries more attractive.

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  3. So the 2021 F150 option for an onboard 2000 watt generator has me thinking.


    a.  Why did if take a manufacturer so long?

    b.  Does anyone really want a 2000 watt generator with a >200 cu in engine?

    c.  Wagers this is a >$1400 option? 


  4. 7 hours ago, mossemi said:

    Overland, thanks!

    Dean, no I am not sure it would fit.  I have never had my toilet out, but they are pretty standard.  But you have the toilet out and you could measure from a straight edge across the bottom to the toilets flange and compare to a none RV toilet.
    Have you removed any of the flange mounting screws or bolts?


    Dometic 310 Floor flange spec: “3 in ./76 mm ID, 1/4-7/16 in . (6-11 mm) thick” ( which is the average thickness of a toilet floor flange).  So you are probably correct.  Note the flange shown is not the correct size and shown for flange thickness example.


    The Oatey 43508 flange is .45” at the 7/16 limit.



  5. “IF” the Oliver folks advise the flange can be removed without too much grief, I d opt to replace with a Sioux Chief flange.  There are websites suggesting the RV flanges removal is not difficult.


    RV Toilet Flange Glued to Pipe

    Depending on your RV model you may run into a toilet flange that is glued or cemented into place. You do not have to worry because breaking that seal is not that hard to do.

    All you will need is a good chisel and a solid hammer. Just place the chisel between the flange and where it is glued to and give the chisel a good firm tap. The seal should break without causing any damage.


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