Dave and Dana

Thanks all. Dave

I am measuring to top of bulldog (per video instruction from Anderson, who then wants me to add 2 inches to that measurement to use for the height of the ball on my truck). My trailer is level, on level ground. Level by "eyeball", the bubble, and with a 4 foot level placed along the fiberglass seem that runs parallel between top and bottom half of the trailer. Assuming you use the Anderson WD hitch; can I ask, "What is the distance from ground to top of your ball with no trailer attached?" Oliver service says to set ball height of truck to 23n1/2 to 25 inch's. Dave

HI, I am converting my standard hitch ball to the Anderson WD ball. (2 inch ball, was towing with an Audi Q7, but upgraded to Tundra 1/2 ton). Soooo, Oliver says to set top of ball to 23n1/2 inch above ground. Anderson WD instructions say to level trailer, measure top of coupler and add 1n1/2 to 2 inches, and then use that measurement as your top of ball distance. With my Ollie level, using both the bubble and a confirmation by placing a 4 foot level along the seam between top and bottom half of Ollie, my bulldog is 18n1/2 inch off the ground. Using Anderson instructions my ball height on truck would be 20n1/2 inch off ground..... far from the 23n1/2 Oliver recommends. Which is "right", for people with Anderson hitch, installed by factory, how far off ground is the top of your ball? Thanks, Dave W

Thanks! Can’t wait to give it a try! Dave

I took delivery in 2022, so likely the newer one.

Hi, does anyone have tips/suggestions to easily put the winter cover on an Ollie II? Thanks

My 6 month old Ollie Elite2 has been sitting for 2 month, took it out yesterday for a short 3 mile spin. When I got home I noticed something on my wheel which was not there when I took off my tire covers.... On one of the 4 wheels, I could see a reddish/orange stain, looks like coming from the hub, and by the trails it left, I believe it started as liquid, and was centrifically being spun out onto wheels and tire. It was dry to touch, a very fine reddish/orange powder. It might be rust, but was more orange than "usual" rust. If it is rust, that doesn't seem "right" to me. Has anyone seen this before? Suggestions? IMG_0712.HEIC

Maybe it is 20 to 30% of original styrofoam gone......

Bird built a nest inside the housing of the AC unit, next to the compressor. I've cleaned it out, no major damage and unit works, but I noticed the bird chipped off some of the white styrofoam insulation.... See attached photo, more styrofoam removed from far left as compared to far right. I am not sure what it is insulating? (something under the black plastic housing). First question, I estimate about 10% of the styrofoam has been removed...... worth my while to fix/replace with either a whole new piece or just try to patch the missing area? Cost/difficulty/need for 100% insulation issues? Second question, Has anyone else had this issue of birds nesting in housing, and how to prevent in future?? (For now I have a metal "bird spike" repeller loosely attached to outside of housing while parked at home, will remove when I am on the go.)IMG_0502.HEICIMG_0502.HEICIMG_0502.HEIC

OK, thanks for everyones input and advice. I'll try to follow the Lithionix recommendations, As an aside, it would be nice if the Lithionics battery app could give an alert on my phone that it's time to 50% discharge and then recharge, or other battery maintenance as recommended/needed.

We have lithium batteries with solar. Is there any reason I should not "unplug" from my home shore power and just let my solar and lithium run on their own when it is summer time, waiting for our next trip? We use the AC when parked. The solar charge controller and Xantrex controller seem to be designed to keep everything in proper order. Is there any reason for me to check on the status of the system from time to time? If we get a hot spell, I could see running out of power, and then I can plug in to shore power, and would also plug into shore power two days before a planned trip to get the batteries back to 100%. It's better to "exercise" the lithium batteries anyway? Am I thinking right? dave

I can only address the CO/LP Detector issue. Do you have an "RV Safe" brand detector? I am in the process of replacing a defective detector, as mine recently started sounding and flashing, with no CO or Propane issue. If you have an RV Safe brand detector, if it is the same model as mine, a "FLASHING" red light indicates CO high, not Propane. Dave

To close my original post: The CO detector under the dinette just went off again today...... Ollie is on shore power, no one in or near camper today. Propane off for more than 24 hours; no heater, fridge not on gas, no cars or engines nearby. Detector by TV is not going off. I put a new Kidde CO monitor in the Ollie the other day, it reads ZERO CO. I think it is Safe to say original problem was a faulty sensor. OTT has already sent out a new RV SAFE, CO and Propane detector.

Thanks for the info on Fridge unit and combustion chamber seal. Sounds like everyone here and OTT is on the problem. I will monitor and look for a proposed fix/recall on this issue. Dave

So, correction.... I do have a CO/Smoke detector in rear by TV. It is functioning. The unit under the front dinette is the one which was indicating high CO. It is an "RV Safe; CO and Propane" detector. As CO is lighter than air, and as rear CO detector was not going off, I think it is a safe bet that the RV Safe unit was a false alarm or defective. I guess it could have been some other gas or propane, but I think unlikely. Will monitor with my sniffer when I need to turn gas back on..... getting cold again here. Thanks everyone for your input.