Jump to content

Alberta and Randy

Members
  • Posts

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

My Info

  • Gender or Couple
    Couple

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Hull #
    67
  • Year
    2015
  • Make
    Oliver
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan

Recent Profile Visitors

498 profile views

Alberta and Randy's Achievements

Contributor

Contributor (5/14)

  • Collaborator Rare
  • Dedicated
  • One Month Later
  • Week One Done
  • Reacting Well Rare

Recent Badges

22

Reputation

  1. To wrap this thread up from our perspective here is the final information. We reached out to OTT Service with a service request and Jason responded back that on our year trailer the ground on the 7pin trailer side used the tow vehicle. Jason explained how to test this by placing the multimeter ground wire on the aluminum frame of the trailer while testing, and we did, and we got an accurate battery reading. So this confirmed what he said was our setup. So at least we now know why the portable solar panel wasn't recognizing a battery being connected when it was plugged into the trailer 7pin. Thanks again to everyone who helped us with this!
  2. Rechecked our setup - looks like original equipment, no extensions. So we will have to do the mod if we want the capability to leave the hose attached during travel. Thanks again for the education. I was hoping for magic. Lol
  3. Would someone please show me/tell me what is used to connect their stinky slinky to the drain pipe that also allows the rear bumper to close? I don't know the names of the components we currently have on our trailer (2015 LEII #67) but if the hose is connected to the drain pipe the bumper does not have clearance to close (see attached picture). I keep reading about people doing this but I haven't figured out how yet. Thanks much.
  4. Thanks everyone for the quick replies. I continued researching after I posted and found mossemi previous post (thanks for your link again here! ) and spoke with scubaRx. I believe I have a path forward... will see if it's successful. Appreciate all your input!
  5. 2015 LE2 Hull 67 We are trying to figure out where the plastic tubing, shown in pictures, goes when it disappears from view? In hopes that will troubleshoot the real problem. Water is dripping at each location where tube goes behind fiberglass wall? The exterior drip hole on bottom street side does have water dripping out, sometimes slow sometimes faster. We pushed a wire up there and only got small black smears out, so didn't feel like it was stopped up from insect or other. Took the top cover off and didn't see anything eye catching (drip pan blockage). Appreciate any tips.
  6. SeaDawg - we used the multi meter to test the trailers 7pin charge wire, using the aluminum frame at the tongue as the ground connection. Our reading was 13+V. We understood that to mean yes the charge wire is working, as it read the battery voltage. Rideandfly - how did you check your Ollie's battery charge rate of 3.5A while connected to your TV?
  7. John, yes we believe our trailer brakes have/do work correctly (till proven otherwise). We have set the Gain value on our truck and used the trailer brake controller pinchers to test that the trailer brakes engage and stop the vehicle/trailer when traveling at slow test speed. I can't address why Oliver initially configured the trailer this way, however, it seems like they changed to a trailer grounding configuration at some point so that is good. I believe we will be looking at getting this issue changed over with a trailer ground point, as we would like to have the option to use a portable solar panel connected at the 7pin.
  8. I put in a trouble ticket with Oliver to see if they could provide information that might help with our issue, and Jason did. Here is his response: "I would check to see if the 7-pin trailer ground is grounded to the trailer frame. In 2015 the campers were grounded to the tow vehicle via the ball/coupler connection. When the tow vehicle is connected the ground between the two allows everything to work. If the 7-pin is not grounded to the frame then the portable solar may not work as it is not grounded with the trailer." We tested and confirmed that if we use the multimeter to read the voltage on the charge port and choose the aluminum frame at the tongue as the ground then we get 13.9V reading. I'm guessing that others who use a portable suitcase solar panel hooked to the 7pin, don't have this condition and the ground on their 7pin is connected to the trailer frame. That's sorta a question if anyone reads down this far. 🙂 Thanks for all the troubleshooting help!
  9. For reference, we have a 2015 LE2 and our drawer release is the black "handle" shown in the drawer slide photo below. Those handles had to be moved either up or down for the release to happen so the drawer could be pulled all the way out. AND the black handle on each side moved in opposite direction of other side. So if I pulled the left handle up then I pushed the right handle down.
  10. I did a direct reading on the battery terminals and got 13.7. So the 7pin reading should be the same. I will study John's link with the additional 7pin information and see what I can learn from that and troubleshoot on our rig. There certainly seems to be a disconnect with the 7pin plug somewhere.
  11. Thanks FrankC for the description of your setup, it helped. I've uploaded a photo I took of using the multi meter to test the 7pin readout. I know I'm going to get the terminology wrong here but hopeful you can still follow my description, especially with the picture. I used the top left 7pin contact as the positive and the bottom right contact as the ground, to take the meter reading. I believe that is the number 4 and number 1 positions on a 7 pin diagram I saw on another thread (sorry, can't locate immediately). The meter reading fluctuated around 460-470 mV (see photo below). I don't know what a correct reading should be. We have 4 (210Ah) AGM 6 volt batteries that are connected in parallel (two on the left in parallel and the two on the right in parallel) and then those two sets of parallels are connected in series. Which should be 12 volt battery with 420Ah. So....I said all of this battery description case it's useful for saying what the correct 7pin reading should be on the multi meter. Based on my burgeoning knowledge of electrical stuff - I'm thinking the solar panel troubleshooting guide is telling me that the battery voltage is < 3 volts and based on the multi meter reading that is a true statement. But I don't understand why that would be. Or what it should be. I don't know what or how to check the 20V amp breaker. There are three 2 amp breakers. One of them is labeled "Charger". Not sure what that is for. Is there a meter reading I can do there also? Thanks, Alberta
  12. 2015 LE2; roof top solar package (340w I think, 2000w inverter); NO solar port on the side This isn't an Oliver issue, I don't think. However, I'm wondering if anyone else is doing this setup and can offer any troubleshooting tips. I used to connect this Renogy 100w portable solar suitcase panel (Voyager series with 20amp charge controller) to our Casita through the 7pin connector to charge the wet cell battery. We had created a set of connections that got the MC4 connector on the solar panel to a 7pin connector that could plug into the trailer's 7pin. No problems. I am trying to do the same for our Oliver. I need to change the battery type setting to AGM for the Oliver setup. When I set the portable solar panel up in the sun, and connect to the Oliver through the 7pin I get the error code of "b01", which indicates no battery connected. I haven't found any online resource solution that has fixed the issue. I am trying to do this to allow for battery recharge when parked in shade. I know it has and can be done because I've read through the forum and seen others who have done similar. I am trying to determine if there is something different about the Oliver that doesn't allow for the same connection setup that we had on our Casita. OR if there is something "broken" on the Renogy panel. Any input, and tips, greatly appreciated. Alberta
  13. 2015 LE2 Hull 67 This story is evolving as we continue to remember and put together things that happened during and after the Rally. I'll try to distill the story to the essentials. 1. During rally went to charge phones on the 120v a/c plugs and they didn't appear to be working. Tried resetting the GFCI under dinette, no results. Opened the control panel under dinette and the 15amp circuit breaker was flipped to off. Didn't think anything of it at the time. We were plugged into a 30amp post at the site. 2. After getting home, plugging the trailer in, and unloading the Ollie went back out later and the CO2/LP alarm was goiing off. The LP light was flashing red. Hit reset, double checked the propane tanks were off (they were), tried to light the stove top to bleed out any potential propane in the lines (none). Alarm came back on couple more times. Back of the alarm has red date stamped of Oct 11 2019. Not sure if this is a creation date or expiration date. Guessing creation. 3. Went out to trailer little bit later to do/check something and heard this buzzing sound (first time), like something was humming from being on. Tracked it down to the Power Dynamics Power Control Center PD4045KA under the dinette, and next to the CO2/LP alarm. It was hot in the trailer, those 90 degree days. 4. Took the panel cover off of PCC and nothing looked unusual or suspicious. The only odd behavior was when we flipped the 2nd from the end 15amp breaker to the off position, the fan started to spin a little and then stopped. That is a consistent movement when we flip that breaker to the off position. 5. We've read the thread on "Buzzing noise from under dinette" which was very helpful. Uncertain if we have a bad fan issue or a bad board issue or other. The buzzing stopped at some point and haven't heard it again. Concerned this is the beginning of an issue we really want to resolve before more travel. We welcome input from all as to what the issue might be, things to check, or questions to ask Progressive Dynamics. We have not yet called them. Thanks much!
  14. I'm no expert but I've read on the forum other posts regarding plastic shavings caught in the filter. You might try searching on that topic as I've seen pictures of location and what to look for. Hopefully this helps a little. Good luck!
  15. Thanks for all the feedback ya'll! I did not comprehend that the screen had those little silver extensions that snap to the frame. Must pay closer attention to details next time, they matter! Screen is in place and seems to be functioning. The screen is missing one of the top silver extensions, but still seemed to attach.
×
×
  • Create New...