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Alberta and Randy

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  • Gender or Couple
    Couple

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Hull #
    67
  • Year
    2015
  • Make
    Oliver
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan

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  1. Yep, if we press slightly on the black lead wire at the connection/solder point it causes the tank reading at the monitor to jump numbers. So this may be the culprit! We are going to monitor on our upcoming trip and may end up trying to put a daub of solder back on to "tighten" that connection, if possible.
  2. Thanks everyone for your comments or suggestions! Tom and Doreen - thanks for the link, that was an informative read. I need to measure, visually verify, our tank to see if it is less than 14" tall, indicating there is only one sensor strip to go out. In my troubleshooting imagination, I could see two stacked strips and the top one went bad. 🙂 Jason Foster - we use the black tank flush port (multiple times), that sprays water into the tank. Geronimo John - I have not tried dusting the sensor, thanks for that suggestion. I'll get a can of compressed air to blow on the sensor, from a distance. Mike and Carol - we have put Dawn dish liquid in the tank before using the black tank flush port, to help break down whatever. We have not tried to soften the water so I can try that with borax....or driving around with a full-ish tank and dish soap & borax. We have regularly used Happy Camper for maintenance during our ownership. Two years of ownership and the readings started acting up in the last few months so I suspect this is nothing to do with the previous owners. SeaDawg - we regularly use our toilet, just not for poop. We will try using Mike & Carol's method, with more attention to detail on where our previous methods have differed from theirs and see (hopefully, fingers crossed) if we get different results. I would much prefer to clean then replace a part, if possible. Thanks again everyone for the input! We will keep plugging away on this issue until we get it resolved one way or another. 🙂 Alberta
  3. Hello from Hull 67, circa 2015! We are troubleshooting our black tank monitor that will only read as high as 35%. Starting with the tank empty, the monitor will display 0, all the way up to 35, and then stops no matter how full the tank gets (visually confirmed through the toilet). We've owned the trailer for about 2 years now and we are not in the habit of pooping in it, although we have a handful of times max. The monitor started acting up last fall. We have done multiple black tank flushes, in case there was some blockage on the walls of the tank. Any ideas to try resolving? Is it easy and simple to replace if the strip on the side of the tank has gone bad? I can't tell if there is one strip or two (maybe only the top one is bad...). Thanks for the guidance!
  4. Thanks for your original post SeaDawg. We've needed to replace our outside shower handle and I searched the forum and found your post. Very helpful. I also ordered an aerator head for the indoor shower head. Ours was leaking.
  5. To wrap this thread up from our perspective here is the final information. We reached out to OTT Service with a service request and Jason responded back that on our year trailer the ground on the 7pin trailer side used the tow vehicle. Jason explained how to test this by placing the multimeter ground wire on the aluminum frame of the trailer while testing, and we did, and we got an accurate battery reading. So this confirmed what he said was our setup. So at least we now know why the portable solar panel wasn't recognizing a battery being connected when it was plugged into the trailer 7pin. Thanks again to everyone who helped us with this!
  6. Rechecked our setup - looks like original equipment, no extensions. So we will have to do the mod if we want the capability to leave the hose attached during travel. Thanks again for the education. I was hoping for magic. Lol
  7. Would someone please show me/tell me what is used to connect their stinky slinky to the drain pipe that also allows the rear bumper to close? I don't know the names of the components we currently have on our trailer (2015 LEII #67) but if the hose is connected to the drain pipe the bumper does not have clearance to close (see attached picture). I keep reading about people doing this but I haven't figured out how yet. Thanks much.
  8. Thanks everyone for the quick replies. I continued researching after I posted and found mossemi previous post (thanks for your link again here! ) and spoke with scubaRx. I believe I have a path forward... will see if it's successful. Appreciate all your input!
  9. 2015 LE2 Hull 67 We are trying to figure out where the plastic tubing, shown in pictures, goes when it disappears from view? In hopes that will troubleshoot the real problem. Water is dripping at each location where tube goes behind fiberglass wall? The exterior drip hole on bottom street side does have water dripping out, sometimes slow sometimes faster. We pushed a wire up there and only got small black smears out, so didn't feel like it was stopped up from insect or other. Took the top cover off and didn't see anything eye catching (drip pan blockage). Appreciate any tips.
  10. SeaDawg - we used the multi meter to test the trailers 7pin charge wire, using the aluminum frame at the tongue as the ground connection. Our reading was 13+V. We understood that to mean yes the charge wire is working, as it read the battery voltage. Rideandfly - how did you check your Ollie's battery charge rate of 3.5A while connected to your TV?
  11. John, yes we believe our trailer brakes have/do work correctly (till proven otherwise). We have set the Gain value on our truck and used the trailer brake controller pinchers to test that the trailer brakes engage and stop the vehicle/trailer when traveling at slow test speed. I can't address why Oliver initially configured the trailer this way, however, it seems like they changed to a trailer grounding configuration at some point so that is good. I believe we will be looking at getting this issue changed over with a trailer ground point, as we would like to have the option to use a portable solar panel connected at the 7pin.
  12. I put in a trouble ticket with Oliver to see if they could provide information that might help with our issue, and Jason did. Here is his response: "I would check to see if the 7-pin trailer ground is grounded to the trailer frame. In 2015 the campers were grounded to the tow vehicle via the ball/coupler connection. When the tow vehicle is connected the ground between the two allows everything to work. If the 7-pin is not grounded to the frame then the portable solar may not work as it is not grounded with the trailer." We tested and confirmed that if we use the multimeter to read the voltage on the charge port and choose the aluminum frame at the tongue as the ground then we get 13.9V reading. I'm guessing that others who use a portable suitcase solar panel hooked to the 7pin, don't have this condition and the ground on their 7pin is connected to the trailer frame. That's sorta a question if anyone reads down this far. 🙂 Thanks for all the troubleshooting help!
  13. For reference, we have a 2015 LE2 and our drawer release is the black "handle" shown in the drawer slide photo below. Those handles had to be moved either up or down for the release to happen so the drawer could be pulled all the way out. AND the black handle on each side moved in opposite direction of other side. So if I pulled the left handle up then I pushed the right handle down.
  14. I did a direct reading on the battery terminals and got 13.7. So the 7pin reading should be the same. I will study John's link with the additional 7pin information and see what I can learn from that and troubleshoot on our rig. There certainly seems to be a disconnect with the 7pin plug somewhere.
  15. Thanks FrankC for the description of your setup, it helped. I've uploaded a photo I took of using the multi meter to test the 7pin readout. I know I'm going to get the terminology wrong here but hopeful you can still follow my description, especially with the picture. I used the top left 7pin contact as the positive and the bottom right contact as the ground, to take the meter reading. I believe that is the number 4 and number 1 positions on a 7 pin diagram I saw on another thread (sorry, can't locate immediately). The meter reading fluctuated around 460-470 mV (see photo below). I don't know what a correct reading should be. We have 4 (210Ah) AGM 6 volt batteries that are connected in parallel (two on the left in parallel and the two on the right in parallel) and then those two sets of parallels are connected in series. Which should be 12 volt battery with 420Ah. So....I said all of this battery description case it's useful for saying what the correct 7pin reading should be on the multi meter. Based on my burgeoning knowledge of electrical stuff - I'm thinking the solar panel troubleshooting guide is telling me that the battery voltage is < 3 volts and based on the multi meter reading that is a true statement. But I don't understand why that would be. Or what it should be. I don't know what or how to check the 20V amp breaker. There are three 2 amp breakers. One of them is labeled "Charger". Not sure what that is for. Is there a meter reading I can do there also? Thanks, Alberta
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