Gliddenwoods

I recently completed yet another replacement of one of the touch-enabled LED lights...again. This the fourth one I have had to replace and the others are fickle as to how one must touch them to turn on and off. Of course many of you know the hassle of having to drill out and replace the rivets. Why rivets? So I seek input on two options to at least reduce the pain of the touch-enabled LED lights...or make it go away. Option 1. Has anyone replaced the existing bloody rivets system with screws or pass-through small bolts with washers & nuts? The small bolt option would require counter-sinking/boring space for the upper nut and washer...but doable. Going forward when the lights fail again the rivet hassle will be gone. Option 2. Replace all the touch-enabled LED lights with 12v lights with individual switches. No more fickle on and off light touches...just an on and off switch on each light. Has anyone done this or considered this option? (I thought that Oliver Inc was considering this option at one time.) Does anyone have a recommendation of a replacement light that would work for such a change? Please share your thoughts as to the feasibility of either or both options. (Did I mention that I do not like the Oliver provided touch-enabled LED lights and/or the use of rivets to install them?) Thanks

Thanks for all the replies. However I realize that the replies have been about (since I was not clear in my first message) the cover edge when it is the lower compartment edge that the cover sits on that I am referring to. My error. There is a soft seal that is on the compartment edge....similar to a door seal. Mine is in bad shape and I need to replace. So...has any replaced the lower seal and with what?

Looks good. I assume it has been a secure tight for you. How long have have you had it applied? Do you use any glue? Thanks

Where have others purchased a replacement for the propane storage compartment cover seal? Any recommendations of brand, source and/or installation? Thanks.

Miss-print: Suburban. Too bad not connected to inverter with endless southern New Mexico solar charging.

Yes I also have the (2022) Platinum Package and never tried to run off the batteries. I planned to do the "test" you suggested when we returned home, but got lazy last night and posted the question.

Quick question. When not connected to shore power will the Dometic water heater operate off the lithuim batteries?

The proper way to dewinterize (per Oliver Travel Trailer written and video instructions) is to fill the fresh water tank 50 to 100% to dilute the antifreeze and flush the tank. After which one allows this water to drain out under the camper. So & thus, yes indeed, there is water in the fresh water tank to be drained. So...back to my original questions; any helpful suggestions?

When we depart from the cold north to begin a trip our Oliver is winterized. Upon a warm State the dewinterizing is to be completed. Two problems: 1.The fresh drain is so small it takes well over an hour to drain. Has anyone modified the drain outlet to speed up the process? How? If not modify the drain outlet are there other suggestions? 2. Draining the tank in a campground is prohibied. Are other owners driving down the road with the open? Or what? Thanks

Ordered two dust cap combos. In photo one set is (partially) installed on hose end and on my Oliver. Other uninstalled set on floor. They fit very nice

We actually do offer dust caps for our quick connect fittings, they can find found here: https://goblutech.com/collections/accessories/products/dust-cover-plug-blu-tech-quick-connect

SmartPlug...where did you purchase the kit from? Any install advice in addition to that the holes match and the use of Dawn lubicate?

Ahh...blue painter and duct tape; my go to tools.

That might work.