John E Davies
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Posts posted by John E Davies
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EDIT 12/16/20: see this thread for how to swap: .... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4812-how-to-progressive-dynamics-pd4045-lithium-upgrade/
$168 shipped, no sales tax. I just ordered one, and I plan to order a couple of Lithium batteries within a week. ETrailer.com sells this for $211, free shipping, plus sales tax. Quite a savings.
NOTE: Later units are already lithium capable, I do not know an easy way to tell if yours is, other than looking right at your circuit board or possibly by calling Oliver Service... You have to remove the front cover (1 small square drive screw in the center, snaps around the outside) and check. Be VERY careful if you are connected to shore power, there are lots of live wires in there that could kill you. If you are at all in doubt, disconnect shore power and the batteries, and work by flashlight! Here is mine (Hull 218, April 2016 delivery):
This was posted by another member, I edited it for clarity. This is a new Lithium capable board. Note the jumpers.
Here is a wide shot of my unit, you must look at the board in the very upper left corner. It is easier if you just take a picture to look at.
When I change mine I will post a full HOW TO thread with pics and info. “When” depends on when I get the converter part and the Victron batteries. I already have a Victron smart monitor installed, and the Oliver installed Zamp solar controller is lithium capable already.I hope this is helpful.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I considered it, but I think the risk of damage to the ports is too high, especially if your trailer has no mud flaps. A lot of road debris gets projected straight at that area. Imagine running over a truck tire carcass.... Plus it looks a little weird IMHO. I do however screw in a quick disconnect at home when I fill the fresh tank. mainly because it is much easier to screw in an adapter than to screw in a garden hose, and I already have these installed on all my residential garden hoses and accessories. They are SUPER high quality, ten year warranty and you can replace the 0-rings if they leak.
https://www.eleyhosereels.com/products/garden-hose-quick-connect-system
If you want to use any quick disconnect on an Ollie, it would be easy to find a rubber cap to cover JUST the male part, like a chair tip. It would look better than a bunch of extra stuff hanging out. Just make sure to measure first. ...https://www.amazon.com/Shepherd-Hardware-8763E-8-Inch-Diameter/dp/B076FN29LK/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=rubber+crutch+tip+1"&qid=1606500847&sr=8-8 ... or just go by your local hardware store.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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1 hour ago, Trainman said:
I don't see rounding off the end of the pin a problem, but modification to the actual hitch itself in an accident and lawyers today if they can find where modification have been done could cause you big problems in court.
Thanks for bringing this up. You are certainly entitled to your opinion. This mod does nothing to weaken the attach point of the whale tail. The shackles, chain or the welds on the fin would fail long before the solid steel bar it attaches to would break. If anyone is worried about liability, then skip the hole part.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I am looking for Victron deals. Northern AZ Sun and Solar has them for 10% off through DECEMBER 6, does anyone know of a better one?
https://www.solar-electric.com/victron-energy-lifepo4-battery-12-8v-100ah.html
Thanks,
John Davies
Spokane WA
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16 minutes ago, Ray and Susan Huff said:
I would hesitate to buy a first generation new model; spend the extra on a good portable generator.
I agree to both comments, and you can’t run your air conditioning off the Ford inverter, at least not without running its main engine also. Which really defeats the purpose.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Hi, welcome to the forum. I doubt you will find a GX owner towing an LE2, it is inadequate in many ways, the power from that small V8 engine is marginal and the tow rating is only 6500 pounds. OTH it would be an acceptable rig for an LE, especially if you wanted its stellar offroad capabilities. But an LX570 would be a MUCH better choice for the bigger trailer. Even that is not an “ideal” tow vehicle due to the short wheelbase and low payload rating. If you are determined to get an LE2 I would suggest either trading up to the LX or a Land Cruiser, or get a long wheelbase body-on-frame SUV or pickup truck.
I hope I don’t sound harsh, I LOVE the older GX470s, before they completely screwed up the looks with the shark grin grill. I would really like to have one of those with the (very rare) Sport Package with KDSS offroad package and subdued black maple interior.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I will start with the Furion port, but I really do not like the design, and I am already using it as a 14 volt power source for my fridge inside the truck. So I would have to share that connection. I may end doing that.
But really like the Power Pole connectors, they provide a much stouter/ reliable connection and will handle way more current too.
Thanks for all the comments.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Just use a good quality 7500 pound rated ball on a plain ball mount of the correct drop; no worries with the 2” Bulldog. Unless you plan to grossly overload the trailer, then worries.... or buy a bigger trailer.
I switched because of the horrible ball wear from the forward thrust of the Andersen chains, the bigger ball is definitely better in this respect. I have no regrets whatsoever.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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The outside hot water heater “shore power” switch is there mostly so you do not accidentally fry the heating element when the tank is drained for winter. If the circuit breaker inside is not turned off, the element will burn out in a few seconds unless it is completely surrounded by water. When winterizing, or any time the tank is emptied (for a flush or anode change) it is a really GOOD idea to trip the breaker inside under the dinette, and also turn off the outside switch, to avoid a senior moment and the inevitable swear words. The element is not expensive and it is easy enough to replace, but it is a hassle best avoided entirely.
There is a little white plastic tab that secures the outside door in place, at the top. It has two sides and rotates. I colored one side with a Sharpie, when the element switch is ON I turn that side OUT, when it is off I turn the white side out. Simple and effective, you can tell at glance the status of the switch as you walk by. It takes all of ten seconds to color one side. Another thing I do to avoid a burnout is to leave the anode lying on the bottom of the heater and not reinstall it until spring. It is a very strong reminder that the tank is empty and out of service.
I call this stuff Red Flagging, we used to do that on aircraft routinely when we stopped in the middle of a job for lunch, or to go home for the day. It was literally a long red streamer looped around a nearby support, to alert anybody that “this repair is not finished yet!” or “this engine has no oil!” It was mainly in case you got sick and somebody else had to complete the job, but it also prevented very expensive mistakes, like running a Beechcraft Baron’s two freshly rebuilt piston engines without oil, and destroying them both in a couple of minutes. Uh ohhhhhh. Which happened where I worked, but not to me fortunately. I still red flag things, like the gearshift lever every time the trailer is hitched while the jacks are lowered. Or the ARB compressor fridge inside the truck is connected to the Ollie’s solar port. Uh ohhhhh!
John Davies
Spokane WA
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39 minutes ago, RnA said:
“The Recreational Vehicle Industry Association’s Low-Voltage similarly requires venting for all battery locations, whether or not batteries are actually installed, and prohibits installation of other potentially spark-producing equipment in the same compartment (e.g. inverters, charge controllers, disconnect switches):.....”
regarding Li, i wouldn’t want any electronics (fire potential) co-located.
Thanks, I was aware of that link, and about venting. I personally would have zero concerns with a controller plus lithium batteries. But I suppose a future buyer might not be as accepting of a code violation. I guess this is a good reason to mount the parts inside the hull itself. I do plan to cover those vent holes though, and insulate the door itself.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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RnA, why should the controller not be located inside the battery compartment? I will be switching from four bad AGMs to two 100 AH lithiums, there will be plenty of room. I was actually thinking of mounting it and an inline fuse upside down on the door itself, so it would drop down out of the way when opened, to allow the tray to slide out. With the door open you would have easy access to the controls and be able to view the display. Does this present problems? I don’t need to see it other times since I have a Victron Connect app that will show me what is going on at the battery bus.
OTH It would work just as easily in the electrical compartment just forward of there. BUT I was hoping to not drill any extra holes through the outer hull; holes in the battery door could be remedied by a simple door replacement, if a future owner was unhappy with it for some reason....
John Davies
Spokane WA
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12 hours ago, mountainoliver said:
I put together this tester at the suggestion of another Oliver owner and keep it handy in my truck door pocket. The voltage display was ordered from Amazon and is advertised as a night light as well. This combination tests the pedestal for not only the typical wiring problems but also for over/under voltage issues. It does not however check for incorrect cycles (above or below 60). I do this very quick test before plugging in.
I use pretty much the same setup, except I used a pivoting three way adapter.
It is very handy. When “Mouse” is plugged in during storage, I insert the tool, with just the voltmeter, into the outside 120 volt outlet, near the hot water heater, facing the front of the trailer. The glowing display shows at a glance that it is getting power. I experienced a failure of the shore power adapter and the converter was not charging the batteries. This way I know the power is at least getting to the main AC circuit.
Highly recommended!
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Since it is rated at 5.5 amps, I think it would give me usable power at 50 feet. I am not trying to maximize the charge current so much as to be able to get a decent amount from a sunny spot far away from where I am parked under trees or beside a building... Normally the panel would be pretty close, but if it could be fairly remote and still be putting out 4 or 5 amps in bright sun, I would be happy. That calculator gave me this, for a PAIR of 100 ft conductors:
Dropping the panel voltage to 16 volts still gives 14.9 volts at the controller input terminals. Is that enough?
Having the controller sitting in the shade, or hard mounted inside with my batteries, should help significantly because one sitting out in the sun, baking at 120+degrees F, is not going to be very happy.
I haven’t read any articles or forum threads about a long distance panel with a close in controller; if somebody has a link I would really appreciate seeing it. I don’t mind doing R and D but would feel stupid if somebody has already done it for me.😳
Thanks.,
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I have AAA RV coverage with 200 miles towing. I have never needed the Roadside Assistance for the trailer, so I can’t say how good it is. I have been an AAA member for many decades, and only had a couple of calls for a flat tire and a wreck, both were not answered for many hours .....😢 in both cases I paid for a tow truck and then got reimbursed by AAA. No worries, it just pisses you off at the time.
I have full coverage with Progressive for $435 per year, and declined their RA coverage ($17) since I already had the AAA coverage. Be sure to look for full replacement (for 5 years) then after that they will pay you what you paid for the trailer. More than fair I think.
Of course rates vary wildly by state and city, your past RV experience, and if it is stored at a risky remote location or in your secure garage. Mine is out of sight in an attached RV bay.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Mike, I don’t understand the chart, it is missing the X axis so I don’t really know how to interpret it. Really, I just need to know if 50 + feet extension with 10AWG stranded wire from an unregulated panel would be workable..... how much voltage drop is OK for the controller to do it’s thing?
I do know you have to figure both wires, there and back, as a complete circuit, when calculating voltage drop. I also (now) know that the cable from controller to batteries should be as short as possible. Or step up the wire size to compensate..... there is 3 feet of 12 AWG (?) wire that Oliver installed going from the inside of the solar port to my positive battery bus. I could increase that to say 6 AWG easily enough, so in effect the controller would be “closer” to the load.
Heck, I might even just add a dedicated controller inside the battery box, with an Anderson bulkhead feed through on the door, down near the hinge... and bypass the Furrion port entirely, which I do not trust as much as the other type.
Thanks.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Gusty winds are so common and unpredictable out West I hardly ever deploy my manual awning. It just shakes the trailer too much, especially since I prefer to not deploy any stabilizers unless required.... I have been thinking about removing it entirely. I tend to scoot my camp chairs around the trailer, following the shady patch. One time at Moab (White Rim Road, boondocking) a violent dry microburst came down out of nowhere, sending up mini dust devils and rocking the truck violently. This was pre-Ollie, but I did have a small awning deployed from the truck roof rack. It basically disappeared, never to be seen again. ..... the tent stayed put, probably because I had anchored all the pegs with large rocks.
https://wasatchweatherweenies.blogspot.com/2013/06/the-microburst.html
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Your choice of campground has a lot to do with the quality of your neighbors and the general “feel” of the place. If you choose a fishing access spot on the weekend near a big city, expect a bunch of jerks who drink, play loud music, hoon around on jet skis and drive too fast through the campground. If you find yourself there, just move on the next day, it is not likely to improve.
When I see a campground full of picnic tables packed with gear, blue tarps spread for shade, a bunch of kids bikes lying all over the place and older cars, I just move on. Generally that crowd is there to meet up with family, drink and party.
More remote spots usually don’t have those kinds of issues. Certainly boondocking sites don’t.... and the price is way better.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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3 hours ago, Landrover said:
I actually get more confused with the outside hot water heater switch is Off up or down?
LOL, it makes no sense, the switch is bass ackwards..... in the USA up is usually ON for a toggle switch. But the Suburban switch is actually labeled the other way, so they did it on purpose. The very first week I had the trailer I wrote down the correct direction. You certainly cannot see the switch itself without bending way over and looking under the box. This is a really good example of a dumb design.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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After four camping seasons I still get the direction wrong the first few times I use the jacks. After that my mind accepts that “Up” means “Trailer Go Up”. Which really does make sense, especially for the rear ones where you cannot see them moving. And for clueless owners who don’t know better. 😀 For the tongue it is harder to accept because you are watching the ram come down. I guess I could rewire just the tongue switch, that would make things really interesting....
I too find that stuff just takes a whole lot longer to accomplish than it used to, in say 1990. I mentally think “1 hour to do this... no worries!.” - it usually takes me half a day or more. And I have to watch closely for mistakes that would never happened long ago. There is a reason old people retire from working.....
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I already have two 25 foot and one 50 foot 120 volt 10 AWG extension cords, primarily for use with my generator and Makita chainsaw. I have a Renogy 100 watt suitcase solar panel coming for Christmas with onboard 20 amp smart controller. I made a Furrion adapter cable for charging my compressor fridge inside the truck, so I already have tools, parts and a head start.....
Sooooooo, hypothetically:
Remove the Renogy onboard controller, add two short pigtails to it with Anderson Powerpole 30 amp quick disconnects.
Add Anderson connectors at the suitcase panel’s 21.6 volt (unregulated) wires.
Make one male and one female three pin adapter for the 120 VAC extension cord, using only the neutral white and ground black pins. Remove (cut off) the unused (hot wire) male pin. Add a pigtail with Andersen connector to each.
Connect the controller output cable directly to the exterior Furrion solar port with a 5 foot adapter cable (already made). Lay the controller on the tire, under the fender, to stay out of the direct sun and weather.
Now the adapter harnesses can be plugged into ANY 120 VAC extension cord to use it as a solar panel low voltage cord. Length would be a non issue since the controller would be located right at the trailer. I could choose 25, 50 75 or 100 feet total length of cord by connecting them together different ways.
If somebody was silly enough to plug the male end of the extension cord into a live 120 VAC socket, nothing would happen at the far end because the hot pin on that adapter plug has been removed.
If I wanted to use the controller with it directly on the panel, for use charging a car battery, for example, it would be a simple matter of installing two screws and plugging the Anderson connectors together.
Any reasons I should NOT do this? I know it might possibly freak out some folks who see a regular extension cord running from the solar panel to the trailer. I am fine with freaking out people 😜 I would rather not buy and make a long 12 volt solar extension when I have these other cords sitting unused....
Does anyone know the maximum distance for the solar panel, using 10AWG wire, to get a satisfactory amount of current at the controller?
Snowed in, too much time on my hands. Please comment! Thanks.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Jim, not all bubble levels are created equal..... some leak.
https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2082-how-to-install-a-big-bubble-level-no-drilling/
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I have a huge level mounted on the front, I try to position the trailer so it is dead level left to right, by moving forward or backward a few feet, then adjust the other way if needed. You can see the level from the drivers seat, it is much easier than that teeny bubble on top of the tongue jack. Ideally you don’t need to do anything else, if the tongue is a few inches low you can raise it and the TV up without unhitching. If the back is low, use the rears. I really prefer not using any jacks at all, and leaving everything fully hooked up. It saves lots of time, and in an emergency you can hightail it out with minimal delay.
If you do this, flag the gear shift with something bright, to remind you to raise any jacks before leaving. You really don’t want to drive with them near the ground...l
John Davies
Spokane WA
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You should have received one, it would be unpleasant to transport without one..... especially if nearly full. File a service request and they will send you one, but check all drawers first, it may be there in the galley.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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It is prewired for solar. I would like to crawl around under one for a while, the main frame looks slapped together and less “finished”, not sweetly engineered like an Ollie. Lots of open tubes for dirt and moisture to collect.
John Davies
Spokane WA
Simple to add 100 extra Watts of Solar
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
Nice looking panels, I like everything but the price ($500). Are you using the supplied mounting feet or something different? They make quick release mounts which would be helpful for when you have to do work up there, since these can't be tilted. Or can they?
https://store.zampsolar.com/collections/mounting-hardware/products/omni-mount-feet-quick-release
I do want to comment, adding extra panels up top is great for when you are actually exposed to the sun. I am going with a suitcase portable unit for when that is not the case.
Please post a full write up when you are done, I am sure lots of folks are interested. Thanks,
John Davies
Spokane WA