John E Davies

The hose is 1/2” inside. The actual hole in the ball valve is less, tho I have never actually looked at it. This is pretty common, look at your garden hose squirt nozzle or shutoff valve sometime - it is pretty restricted unless it is made by Eley. Extension hose...... hmmmmm, let me think. Oh yeah. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4267-how-to-fresh-tank-drain-line-extension/ John Davies Spokane WA

Woah! Seems a little pricey at $25 per pair. A quick search shows you can order direct for $3.37. Shipping adds $12 to the cost. (Sometimes Amazon Prime prices are criminally high.) Maybe Oliver should buy a few hundred and offer them for $5 to owners through the mythical and much hinted about Ollie Store.... Add a $1 to ship in a USPS envelope. https://shop.southco.com/en_us/latches/rotary-latch-systems/actuators/m1-546 John Davies Spokane WA

Southco offers a gazillion types and sizes and they are pricey. I have no idea of what size (thickness) you would need, but something like this, added to the existing factory latch, would be pretty secure. https://www.amazon.com/E3-55-62-Action-u00AE-Compression-Latches-Southco/dp/B07MC91X22 OTH a second “special” lock shouts STEAL ME and advertises that there is something special in there. Replacing all the OEM ones so they look the same probably would be better in this respect. The Oliver supplied key is a very sad thing made of stamped sheet metal. I suspect that every owner

I’m sure Overland while chime in, as far as I know he is the only one here with an off-road coupler on an Ollie. He tows a LE2 with a Raptor. Search his posts. I have used a Treg coupler before, but it was on a dinky aluminum utility trailer (750 pounds loaded). I towed that trailer for maybe 30,000 miles over all kinds of surfaces. I personally would be VERY uncomfortable towing off pavement with a single axle Elite and a 4Runner. You don’t want any bars in that situation, so your TV has to be stout enough to deal with the load and the jerking without using them. I would be happy with a

Installing a bigger valve will help, but just a little; the problem is not really the size of the opening, it is the lack of head pressure. If your water tank were located up high, say on the roof, the water would shoot out of that little valve like a fire hose.... well, almost. To get a really fast drain you would need a great big dump valve, like 1/2”. Big, expensive, clunky, heavy. Raising the front of the trailer helps a little to increase the head pressure (at first) and gets rid of those few last gallons. Since the Ollie tank is so very low, maybe the best solution is to accept

This confuses a lot of folks. Legally you have to carry chains for those passes. You do NOT have to install them if the signs say “Chains Required” if you have 4WD/AWD and traction tires installed and are not towing. Normally if things are bad enough that all vehicles must chain up, the DOT closes down the road until it gets cleared of spun out vehicles. Traction tires, not the same as M&S, have the snowflake/ mountain symbol on the sidewall and have a little different rubber that won’t slip quite as much when the road is freezing cold. (However they are not true snow tires, which mus

Update to an old thread. I am now running 42 psi which seems a decent compromise between tire temperature, tread wear and cushioning. I do notice a negative effect on fuel economy when they are not rock hard. Coincidentally, that value is the exact same as in my Land Cruiser LT 10 ply tires. The truck and trailer weigh about the same and that makes it easy for me to remember .... If you don’t have TPMS in your Ollie, run a higher pressure for a better safety margin. John Davies Spokane WA

You are very welcome, we are glad to help. Be prepared to be shocked at the massive current draw you see on the VictronConnect app when you switch on your microwave.... John Davies Spokane WA

Looking good, I am glad you got it working. It is a very nifty application. I like it a lot. I do suggest that you separate the red inverter wire from all the ground wires. Shift it over to the right, away from your new bus. Normally you should maintain separation between hot wires and ground wires, in case a terminal fails, or a wire chafes through. And add some nylon wire ties to reduce wire motion when towing. Tie the red temp sensor wire to the nearby black inverter cable, that is OK. If you worry about chafing you can add some plastic split loom material to it. I bet you are relieved

No, these are light duty. For the weight of your truck and the need for serious towing traction, I would get one pair of heavy duty truck chains plus rubber tensioners, for just the rear axle. This will be fine for 99% of the situations you might encounter. For anything worse, don’t drive. I have two sets of heavy chains that I could use to get around in a disaster, or drive through bottomless mud, or Snowmageddon, when you have to get the gal in labor to the hospital, no matter what, through two feet of unplowed snow. With studless snow tires I have never actually had to use them on my

I don’t have any for “Mouse” because I won’t tow in winter. I am not sure what size tire they are installing. Call your sales rep and ask. Then get a single set of Z-Chains (or a clone) in that size. They should have a zig zag pattern rather than straight across. That ensures that there is always a wire in contact with the ground for best braking traction, and it reduces the thump thump thump if you have to tow slowly on a hard surface. Some local auto parts stores offer free return of unused cables in the spring, that might be worth looking into. If you plan on camping in very marginal weathe

The world is awash in cheap Chinese counterfeit bearings and seals. Dexter Axle Company most likely attempts to buy from a valid distributor , but mistakes in the supply chain do happen. OTH Dexter bearings are not even close to being quality parts. If you buy a complete set of wheel bearings plus seal and hardware for $10, expect it to be garbage. I experienced an inner seal failure that ruined one brake and almost cancelled the trip at around 5000 miles. Buy a cheap blister pack as an emergency item, the next time you get your bearings serviced put in genuine Timkin or SKF parts. They will

It depends on where you plan to connect them to the frame. They should form an X when hooked to the receiver, to catch the coupler if it disconnects. The factory location does not allow for this. If you drill new holes about a foot back at the bottom of each frame rail, that should be fine. Decide where they will attach, measure across diagonally to the receiver hole, and add another foot of length for each one, to allow them to droop under the Andersen plate, if you have one. Trim the chain length as needed to get rid of any excess after you have tow tested the mod. You can support the c

I agree with BackofBeyond and Bill. Worrying and fretting makes you generate stomach acid, but it primarily wrecks the pleasure of a road trip. Most system failures that an RV shop would have to fix can be deferred until you get home - just do without. The furnace, not so much in December. Bring a small 120 volt AC box heater. The number of things that can fail and strand you is actually very small, mostly a blown tire, a blown bearing or a binding brake due to a grease seal failure. (If a brake gets contaminated with grease, it locks up; the only remedy is complete replacement of both brakes

By splitting up the path the “returning” electrons take, you just confuse the Victron Connect and, I suspect, the solar box. I agree that all the old ground connections at the battery negative posts should be moved to your new ground bus. Just make sure the “new” ground cable going to the batteries from the shunt is a large enough gauge for the combined current. The inverter cable is so very oversized that it can carry the max load without overheating. (I cut 18” off my inverter ground cable and installed a new terminal. The remaining scrap was used for the inverter jumper to the shunt.)