John E Davies
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Posts posted by John E Davies
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Back to Black is simply a die that penetrates into the plastic, it isn’t at all slippery. I use this vinyl and rubber dressing on tires and plastic or rubber parts, it is not oily and stupid shiny like most others, nor does it make the tires turn brown when you drive on a dirt road and the particles get stuck to it. Spritz it on, wipe it around, wait five minutes, wipe off the excess with a rag. The tires look great, and it doesn’t streak onto the paint, so you can use it on car body parts.
Griots Vinyl and Rubber Dressing
They have an actual tire dressing, I have not tried it.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I have been using a mid range NextBase 422GW camera for a couple of years, the mount is struck to my windshield below the rear mirror. I spliced into a “switched” power wire (on with the ignition) under the dash and ran the cable up the left A pillar. It works extremely well, the video is high res (so you can read a speed limit sign or license plate number). This is VERY important - if the plate is blurry, the video is worthless. I have never had to use a recording in court, tho I have had a few near-collisions while it was going. Mine is set to run all the time, and it shuts down 30 seconds after losing power when the ignition is switched off. At night the video quality is impressive, especially when there is some additional ambient lighting like street lights.
It has a few quirks, such as their Park setting, which activates the camera for 30 seconds after a big bump, which hopefully will record the bad guy driving away, unless the hit was from behind, in which case you need a second camera, in back. Unfortunately just entering and exiting your car a few times (slamming the door) activates this mode and it quickly depletes the too small onboard battery. I leave this feature off, I might engage it if I parked on a nasty urban street.
You must use a very premium VIDEO memory card, if it has too slow a read/ write speed it will not record correctly. It needs to be big so there is plenty of room for video without it constantly over writing the data. A small card will work fine for recording accidents, but if you want to go retrieve a pretty section of your mountain trip a week later, you may find that it has gone...
If your car experiences a hit, like running into car, or into a monster pothole, it will save one minute of video (first 30 and last 30 seconds) in a protected file that will not be over-written. All the settings are programmable using the touch screen or their app, you can have it add geodata and time stamps, you can edit and send a low res or hi res clip via email to the cops or your insurance company. You can view the video with the gps track overlaid onto a satellite map, with another side window showing g forces and road speed (computer only). You can insert your own comments too. Lots of cool features, but there is a really steep learning curve to all the editing features!
I really wish that it would record time lapse video at 5 seconds per frame, for scenic drives like Going to the Sun Rd, but so far the software will not allow it. I have gone into the files and extracted and combined the short (up to 2 minute) clips into a very nice real time movie, but the camera is not really intended for that either. A Go Pro would be excellent.
I do recommend these cameras, but OTH I have not used another brand. I decided based on reviews and videos.
I carefully positioned the cam so it was 100% invisible to the driver, but he can still duck his head to see the blue power and red recording leds. At night they are not a distraction. Normally you set the actual display to be black when driving.
I left a cable loop, so I can pop the cam off the magnetic base and plug the cord directly into it, to operate it off the truck’s power, tho it is easier to just use the Bluetooth app.
I also added an adjustable polarizing filter to the lens, this really helps to cut glare on a sunny day.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/best-dash-cam/amp/
Watch this and it’s additional videos, it shows what is so good about these. You can then compare features with other brands. I hope that helps.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Bill, most owners never think about rock hard tires until they find their blinds shaken loose, the drawer contents jumbled, or in the case of older trailers, entire drawers broken free to lie on the floor. It is not just a minor inconvenience, on rough highways it will definitely shake the heck out of the entire trailer. This generates a lot of unnecessary ill will toward Oliver. I think we should keep after them at the very least to explain it to the new owner at delivery day. The manual is full of required technical warnings like sidewalk codes and speed ratings, but not a single word about setting the pressure correctly based on the tire manufacturer’s own published load recommendation chart. Light truck LT tires on a trailer are cool, but you cannot operate them as if each one was carrying 3000 pounds of weight, when in a fully loaded LE2 each carries 1500... The whole situation is mind boggling to me.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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1 hour ago, SherMica said:
FWIW the state inspector here was *horrified* to see my tires at 85 and 90. Reduced to 55. He wanted to go lower. He’s been towing all his life. He is in his 60s. “YMMV.”
We forum members are also horrified, why does the Service Dept not adjust them correctly right before delivery??? This has been a well kmown issue for many many years. Have you bought a TPMS kit for the trailer yet? It should be at the top of your Honey Do list. Get one that also shows the tire temperature. A properly inflated tire flexes a little (it is not rock hard), cushioning the frame and hull over rough surfaces and bumps. It will heat up a little as you cruise the freeway, as will the pressure increase slightly. It is neat to be able to check each one to see what is going on, plus the spare tire, which obviously won’t react like the ones doing all the work.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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8 minutes ago, topgun2 said:
While not practical in the bath of the Oliver, I'm now using a blower (electric) for the major drying of my vehicles to include the Oliver. Its quicker, doesn't leave water spots, and doesn't scratch (unless your careless and hit the vehicle with the blower). If I have the time I then go back over the vehicle with a good "detailer" with clean microfiber cloth and it looks showroom new.
This made me smile.... I pre-dry “Mouse” by firing up my gas blower, followed by a wipe down with cotton towels. The first time I did it the new neighbor kid was totally freaked out when he saw me clinging to the step ladder with one hand and blasting the water off the roof and solar panels with the other. It does work pretty well! I also bring it along on trips where dusty roads might be encountered, to blast the dust off the trailer sides and back, and the truck. It looks better then, and if it should rain, it won’t look so diseased with spots. The blower is also great for clearing needles and leaves from the ground at the site, way better than a broom or rake.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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9 hours ago, Ray and Susan Huff said:
the toilet area does get rather wet. But it's nothing to dry it. We use a synthetic car washing "chamois" - sort of a sponge towel. It works great, and you don't have to dry it after using; just wring it out and store in it's container as it is supposed to be kept damp.
🙄 I am not happy about your method, not unless your goal is to cultivate a lot of bacteria. Even when used on a car, it should be washed afterwards. Since it will inevitably pick up some grit that will damage the finish, I gave up on this way of drying cars twenty years ago. I was seeing too many fine scratches. In the shower I use an old cotton hand towel after first using a Water Blade (which stores overhead). The towel hangs to dry and gets washed at the next opportunity. For my cars I do the same but I use 100% cotton bar towels, one time, then into a bucket, then when the bucket it is full, into the wash. Your gel coat is quite soft and easy to scratch, so you need to be aware of any material that could mar it. These ... Zeppoli Auto Shop & Car Wash Towels - 36 Pack - 100% Pure White Cotton ... work great, but they take a few washes before they become super absorbent. They are also great for general Ollie cleaning.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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17 hours ago, Liana said:
the holes for the screws that are loose are actually stripped. So, exact opposite of the holes being too small: one of the screws pulled all the way out of the window frame with the clip still embedded in the shade frame. Should I just go hunt down some bigger screws?
Please submit a service order about what appears to be an ongoing problem with how these are being installed. It sounds as if the pilot hole in the frame was drilled too big, which is an easy mistake to make, but it does present problems; the next larger screw diameter may fix it, but the head will be a little bigger too. If they are using “self drilling” screws instead of regular ones, that is OK but only if the clip holes are larger, so that the clips can pull down tight and flat to the frame. The clip must be free moving in relation to the screw threads. Post some closeup pictures here for a more detailed opinion😬
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Bob, I would love it if you would do the disc brake mod. At least one other owner has done it, but I would like to see lots of pics with a list of materials and recommendations. The axles Oliver uses on the LE2 are bastards, pardon my language. They have the small bearings and drum brakes of a 3500 pound axle with the bigger six hole lug pattern of a 5000 pound axle. Oliver must order these axle assemblies special from Dexter so they can use a common wheel on both models. It really does screw up an owner who wants a bolt on kit that will allow him to retain those pretty wheels. None of the disk kits will match both the bearings and the hole pattern.
If I ever do this, for sure I would upgrade the axles to regular 5000 pound units. Ideally pick a drop axle type so I could under-sling the springs, to give frame clearance and room for rubber bump stops without getting the frame too high off the ground. I am also very interested in the Timbren independent suspension kit, it is close to “plug and play”, and it could be very cool and would eliminate most drivetrain maintenance if you combined it with hydraulic disks.... The Timbren would be possible in your garage, if you are willing to spend hours grinding off shackle brackets to make room, while lying upside down on the floor. A hoist would make it really easy.
There have been suspension discussions in the past, do a search and ask if you can’t find them. Here is the Timben one:
John Davies
Spokane WA
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And here he discusses with the head of Battle Born a whole, bunch of issues that any lithium buyer should at least be exposed to, even if he doesn’t understand everything.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ywn-vBjKblI
John Davies
Spokane WA
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That video is wonderful, the guy is so enthusiastic. He was wondering about the “wierd foam stuff” in the bottom of the case. I wonder if that is intended to dampen road vibration and shocks...? It would be cool if they would offer an extreme duty model with even more padding.
Thanks so much for posting that! I love knowing what is inside things.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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The American boat is out after the Semi Finals Day 2, they crashed hard in an earlier trial and put a big hole in the hull. They were fast though, they posted the fastest speed of 53 knots (61 mph) on Day 1 in very strong winds. This is pretty good coverage of that day.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rPmeg70tVtM
I love watching these pull away from the support and camera chase boats. Those have to cut across the course before the marks to catch up.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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48 minutes ago, Jps190 said:
Yes I am aware. Unfortunately it is quite difficult to deal with those 4 westernmost states. Georgia has reciprocity with most places I will be going but I will have to find a solution to deal with CA,OR,WA and NV.
You are pretty much screwed when visiting CA and OR, the latter does issue non-resident permits, but you have to visit in person one of the few friendly county (rural Eastern OR) sheriffs who are willing to do that, and you have to also renew it in person after four years. Which is kinda difficult if you live 3000 miles away as you do.... You should check out theUtah Non Resident Concealed Carry Permit, it is easy to get and renew by mail, as long as you take and pass a certified beginner’s shooting class (they require a signed certificate when you apply). It is good in WA and NV, plus NE which is not on your list. That is a lot of hassle and expense for just three more states....Here is a screen shot of the states that honor your GA permit.
And here is the UT map:
I have both a WA permit and a UT non-resident one, and I try to travel just where they honor them. Keep in mind, a WHOLE bunch of western states allow open carry, though some cities restrict it by local ordinance. When you are boondocking or hiking in the mountains, use a side holster and don’t cover your gun when you are around anybody. When I open carry, it is with a Ruger SP101 .327 Federal Magnum in a tan leather OWB holster, since it is bright stainless steel it looks fairly innocuous and not at all “scary” to the uninformed onlooker. But it is big medicine for human and smaller animal predators with the right ammo, it has about 500 ft lbs muzzle energy. You need something a lot bigger for a remote camp, a .44 Mag or bigger long gun works. ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/1994-how-to-santa-cruz-locking-shotgun-mount-in-the-closet/
John Davies
Spokane WA
Spokane WA
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FYI, for anybody who is new to these weird fridges. On DC power, the heating element for the cooling coils is on all the time (I think, this not confirmed), and it draws 15 amps at 12 volts. That is a huge drain over a day, especially if you do not have solar and lots of sun for it to work as intended. 15 amps will essentially flatten, and possibly damage, a 100 amp hour battery in about seven hours.
So, be really aware of this heavy load and do not use the DC option unless you know the battery bank is getting replenished soon. The small amount of current coming from your tow vehicle is not nearly adequate! I am one of those who travels with it on Gas, and have never had a problem, but I am very aware of wind direction when refueling the truck, since there may be an open flame twenty feet away. Though the flame does cycle on and off....
Little House Customs makes a neat little clear cover for fridges, to preventt the DC button from accidentally getting pressed.I highly recommend it, and it takes maybe five minutes to install.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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29 minutes ago, Nan said:
OK, I have reported this. John Davies, I do not know how to do a screen cap, so please tell me how. Thanks
Check your Messages, I sent you some tips and also a screen capture of the bogus RV Trader ad.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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Nan, for your own protection and peace of mind, keep at least one screen capture of the page for when it goes away, which it definitely will. It may reappear in the near future with a few changes. I am surprised that RV Trader has these bogus ads, but Craigslist is swarming with them, and I flag them daily. If you don't know how to do a screen cap, ask here and I will send you one by Forum Message.
Doesn't this make you MAD?
John Davies
Spokane WA
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21 hours ago, Jps190 said:
That’s what Glocks are for. 😉
I know that was said with a wink, but are you fully aware of all the carry laws? If you don't already have an app, this one is very excellent, and there is an Android version. It has an easy to understand map showing where your permit(s) are valid, and it is updated at least monthly.
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/ccw-concealed-carry-50-state/id443321291
John Davies
Spokane WA
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1 hour ago, Jps190 said:
The camera plug has 2 o-rings on it so it should be water tight.
That is pretty nice, not one but two orings, I am impressed. You should still carry a proper solvent ... CRC Electronic Contact Cleaner ... to spray it and the receptacle to get rid of external crud that might tear those pretty rings, and find some replacement orings that will fit, for your spares kit. Sometimes you really do get a much better product by paying extra for an OEM accessory. Not always though, for example an OEM Toyota Ball mount and ball is $$$$ and not much different from a $20 one from Amazon in quality.
Thanks for posting that pic!
John Davies
Spokane WA
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3 hours ago, Overland said:
something rattling around in each
That doesn't make you feel very inclined to go bombing down a washboarded ranch road, does it? ; Battery failure is yet another reason we should be able to order a better factory installed suspension for our Ollies....
Did Battle Born pay shipping for both directions and did they use FedEx? Thanks.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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21 minutes ago, BackofBeyond said:
Now - if we can get Battel born, or a competitor - to just manufacture a single 400 amp hour LIfepo battery - with just one set of neg/pos terminals , that fits neatly into the standard Oliver tray - our lives will become much improved.
That is very excellent from an installer’s point of view, but if it fails you are dead in the water for possibly a very long time. An installation where a failed battery can easily and quickly be removed for service, while maintaining full functionality at a reduced capacity, makes more sense to me. Several small ones connected by easily accessible cables, in other words. For an RV that gets jounced and jolted, this seems to be a prudent design. A fixed bus bar installation would be perfect for a home, but how long will it remain working in the rough world of a camper? Even if this one proves to be bullet proof, I personally would never stop worrying about it.
Battle Born batteries have no way to read onboard cell voltages and their condition, so the only way you can test one to see if it is OK is to separate it from the others, fully charge it, then do a load test with a Battery Monitor to see if it is giving you the right amount of amp hours. Repeat for the next one.. And the next one.... until you find the bad one. If BB wil update their onboard BMS to allow individual cell monitoring, a solid bus installation will be more practical, but still fairly vulnerable to shaking damage. Which IMHO would NOT be covered by their excellent 10 year warranty. “This warranty does not cover negligence or misuse of the battery. If it is deemed that the battery was used improperly, you will be subject to a $150 an hour repair charge plus parts and shipping.”
John Davies
Spokane WA
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40 minutes ago, Minnesota Oli said:
Battle Born did advised me to disconnect the temperature probe from the Zamp solar controller.
Did they give a reason for this? I don’t have the Zamp probe any more, I removed the Zamp unit and installed a Victron MPPT controller, which absolutely requires either a Victron temp probe or alternatively one connected (and networked to) the BVM battery monitor (ground shunt).
I am curious about why a temp probe might be a problem.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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How well is the GM camera port sealed when its cable is plugged into it? The standard round one is open to water and road grit, and since that is a low pressure area, all the road spray gets sucked into that spot.
Something to research and consider maybe? At the very least, buy a can of electrical contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, and spray both parts regularly.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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9 hours ago, Ray and Susan Huff said:
It's sad that RV components are designed to last the useful life of ordinary RVs (only a few years) . . . . . . If more were built like Oliver trailers, we might have better choices.
Do you think the average Ollie buyer would be willing to pay an extra $5,000+ premium for a fully integrated system of compact, reliable, high efficiency diesel and DC powered components? One that essentially forced them to abandon the established RV supply and repair chains, and would be very expensive to fix if a part failed? One that most likely forced them to also buy solar panels and a large lithium battery bank and more expensive chargers to run it when not plugged in at a campground?
DC compressor refrigerators, DC air conditioners, and diesel marine heating systems are great, but they require the owner to have very deep pockets.... My guess is that most people do consider the purchase price of an Ollie as a major part of their buying decision for what is really a very small trailer. Oliver can’t build these with high end systems for just the 1% who might be willing to pay extra. And we have not yet addressed the low-end electrical panels, and the junky brakes and suspension....
My point of view, of course. 😬
John Davies
Spokane WA
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4 hours ago, rideandfly said:
We really admired newer Ollies with white framed shades. During the last visit to the mother ship during 2019, had a new set of white frame shades installed! We really like them!!!! 🙂
How much did they cost please? Did they charge you anything to install them? The labor time is maybe one minute per blind, once their boxes are opened. What did you do with the old ones? If they are in good shape they could be sold on eBay, easily if you saved the packaging....
Thanks.
John Davies
Spokane WA
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I have a full flow gauged regulator set at 60 psi, the cheap “cigar” ones do not so much regulate, as they do restrict the flow. They do not allow full flow at that non-adjustable reduced setting.
Screw a brass 90 degree garden hose adapter onto the side City Water port, attach the regulator with the gauge facing you, and then a blue Camco inline filter, and lay the hose horizontally over the top of the bumper. This keeps the parts out of the dirt (about to turn to mud if you get a leak) and provide some strain relief for the fittings. And it makes your trailer look even more cool. Dirty hoses and cords lying haphazardly in a pile on the ground makes it look as if you don’t care about your equipment.🙂
Never leave the site faucet turned on when you leave the trailer unattended for more than a very short time. “Danger Will Robinson!” A supply hose failure will make a mess on the ground, and hopefully a neighbor will shut it off, but an internal failure like a line rupture or snapped elbow may severely flood the trailer. An Ollie can withstand a small leak, but a constant spurting geyser could flood the channels where the wires go, ruin electronics and the wood cabinets and might electrocute you too, if you are on shore power. I turn it off even for a short walk.
FYI: the two side water ports, the shower and their plumbing are very close to the inverter and electrical components under the street side bed. Maybe not the best location for water lines....
John Davies
Spokane WA
Anyone using a TPMS?
in Towing an Oliver
Posted · Edited by John E Davies
Many vehicles do not have a true TPMS, the only thing it looks for is low pressure in any tire, then the idiot light flashes. My Land Cruiser shows all four pressures (to the nearest 1 psi) plus the spare tire. It would be nice if the TV system showed everything, including temperature. Having not owned a Big 3 truck later than model year 2006, I can’t comment on the newest ones. Do they show pressure for each tire? Is the alarm setting adjustable, for example if you changed tire types, or aired them down to 20 psi for off-road?
John Davies
Spokane WA