csevel
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Posts posted by csevel
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Husband is an electrical engineer..I'm pretty sure he can troubleshoot it. He's just not with me this trip. My trailer has the fan held on by rubber bumpers in the upper outside fridge compartment. I know because I replaced the washers holding it in with stainless. Maybe I bumped something when replacing although it worked yesterday. I will have him look at the thread you sent. Maybe it's a bad fuse.? We had a ton of rain here so maybe something shorted?
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I guess I'm not following about the manual switch in that thread. I can replace the fan if necessary with the exact model but I want to troubleshoot this one as it was just working yesterday!
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4 hours ago, SeaDawg said:
Very nice article. Thanks for sharing the link.
Yes, it's all a nice, glossy, airy white. It's not brown paneling.
I can change up the color scheme any time, with textiles. And, so very easy to keep clean.
I wax the interior, every year or two, with the same uv resistant paste wax we use outside. (Not the floor tiles, obviously) Cleanup is a snap.
14 seasons, and still loving our choice.
Ive been using a ceramic spray.. Nice and easy!
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On a trip and the fridge fan quit. The interior switch lights but the fan doesn't run. It worked earlier today. Is this just an easy replaceable computer fan?
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Good article.. sums it up nicely! I've had more interior likes than dislikes..but the ones who dislike it, are few.. AND incidently, are not invited to camp with me anyway!.. LOL.. Thanks for sharing.
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15 minutes ago, Time2Go! said:
Where did you find the corner drainer? I've not seen one like this. I have a full sink roll up drain similar to this at home. Looking for something small for the Ollie.
Thanks,
Cindy
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14 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:
I don't see a problem with removing the fridge in the future. With our former dometic, I think there were two trim panels, top and bottom, that had to be removed , then some screws on the face of the fridge cabinet. I don't remember anything in the sides that would mess with your new tile. I hope not, anyway. You did a lovely job on the installation.
Thanks for the compliment! Just as I did with the Casita, I have mod fever and it's steadily draining my camping funds! I wish that I had some of the skill set that a number of members here have! Good to know about the fridge. I was starting to worry about my Casita and it's removal as the rear window has to come out to replace it! If I only had to tear a backsplash out, that would be a lesser worry!
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4 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:
Is it this tile, cslevel? Real metal, not vinyl, so safe to use in the stove area?
It's metal and is actually this one SeaDawg:
There were three different designs in the nickel finish. I am really happy with it so far. We'll see how it holds up bumbling down the road. The adhesive was really strong. I decided to use construction adhesive to the left of the sink and cut the tile at a slight angle for the corner. I'm hoping I don't ever have to remove the fridge as this piece will be destroyed and the rest have to come down!
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9 hours ago, Kevin and Theresa said:
Hello! That looks super! I love my Dremel. Is that Hempz lotion I see back there? It's one of my favorites!
Thank you! The lotion is a 99 cent knockoff... Im nearly broke after my mod fever!
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I decided to brighten up the area behind the sink by adding a nice backsplash in a brushed steel finish. I bought the backsplash at Menards but they are available on Amazon. They come in a variety of finishes. I used two packs. The beauty was in the peel and stick feature. They are about a foot long and can be cut with a jig saw.. Although I used a dremel cutoff wheel which worked fabulous. I also used a sanding tip on the dremel to finish the edges nicely. The area to the left of the sink was tricky and slightly uneven so I used a good glue and leveled that area first. I plan to seal with clear silicone on the top and bottom edges. I'm pleased with the result!
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6 minutes ago, BackofBeyond said:
The Oliver sign.
Its now the ILOVHER sign!
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I guess I assumed the light functioned as a brake alert. Mine is definitely an LED strip. I will test when I hook up to go home to see if the light is illuminated when lights are turned from Auto to ON.
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OK, good to know!
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I posted a brief reply in one of the other threads but looking for anyone with tips on troubleshooting the rear upper brake light assembly. I removed and resealed the outer lense due to water leakage and of course now it doesn't work! I realize we can tackle from the inside and it probably shorted due to water intrusion but besides a voltmeter..any tips on where to look are greatly appreciated!
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So if anyone is still following this thread or is remotely interested...after all that fuss and muss over the lens install, on my state park shakedown trip, just 10 minutes from my house, my husband noticed that the brake light is not illuminating! Holy smokes, I'm irritated! I realize we can troubleshoot from the inside of the trailer but still! I imagine something got wet and shorted.
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8 hours ago, John E Davies said:
A big stone or piece of tire carcass thrown up by your trailer tires onto a QD fitting might break the whole thing clean off. Those three side connections are quite vulnerable, the rear winterization one is not. Install mudflaps on your Ollie and TV, they will completely protect those areas, and prevent stuff from ricocheting off the front of the bumper and onto your tail lights.
John Davies
Spokane WA
I love your mud flap install and have studied it. Sadly, its out of my wheel house. Maybe someday I'll find someone willing to duplicate and fabricate them as I think it is a much worthy mod! For now, I'm not planning much off roading (although thats more my style) with ILOVHER. As far as a blowout, I've had one in ten years and my opinion is the fiberglass in that area is more at risk for serious destruction. At that end, my fittings are the least of my worries.
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To put the sealant conversation to rest, we had a significant rain all day yesterday and the sealant held well! No leaks.. So far!
Here is the silver lining in all this ~ The land yacht got a name!
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These are the products I used but the quick connects can be purchased anywhere.
And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MY68JKD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_05TBWQ6KRM244F20J1B3
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On 4/14/2021 at 1:27 PM, rideandfly said:
dewdev,
We use Meguiar's Flagship marine wax for cleaning and waxing. It will remove some stains/spots and make new spots & stains where waxed easy to remove.
We had some water spots that could not removed by waxing. Called Meguiar's and they recommended using their #67 one step compound, then using their Flagship marine wax. This process took care of the spots. We purchased Ollie used and now looks better than when purchased.
This is the way to go! I like the 3M Perfect-It line of cutting compounds too!
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I don't know about you, but my back isn't what it used to be and I'm not keen on bending/kneeling for longer than necessary. Attaching water hoses on the Ollie is a little awkward at best. I'm sure this is not a novel idea but I thought I'd share my new mod that will hopefully be faster and also save that crick in the back.
I found a pack of 3 hose quick connects on Amazon and covers/dust caps for all of my hoses. The covers/plugs are actually for tractors or skid steer hydraulic fittings. It took me a few (let's say many) returns to get the right size ordered but I'm pleased with how they fit. We'll see if they stay on to keep the road debris out. The original chain caps can be used to plug the female ends of your basement stored hoses!
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Welcome to the forum! I too am an Oliver newbie. I recently scored with a LE2 not an hour and a half away from home! I'm not new to fiberglass or RVing but one of the things that makes owning these trailers, as I'm sure you've researched, is the resale value. If you end up not liking your Oliver, you can almost certainly get all of your investment back! The camaraderie and knowledge of this forum has already proven itself to me in my quest to fix minor things on my new ILOVHER!
I owned my previous FG camper for ten years and I didn't know a thing. I now consider myself pretty knowledgeable and many times, travel alone. The empowerment is huge and when you have desire to learn, the sky's the limit! I figure if I mess it up, I only have myself to blame! This forum will be a handy tool in your quest to figure things out. Again, welcome!
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I never thought I'd ever own an Oliver and last year we bought a 2020 Tundra TRD Sport 4x4 1/2 ton. I really thought it was overkill for my Casita but since Ive owned three 4th generation V8 4runners , I couldn't bring myself to go back to a V6~5K towing capacity. The truck performed beautifully on our trip out west with the Casita. It will remain to be seen how the Oliver does. The main issue will always be payload now as I'm limited with all of the hardware/suspension that they put on this thing. Thankfully, I like to travel light. I can always put the hubby on a diet, right?
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3 hours ago, John E Davies said:
Great job, that repair looks great. FYI everybody, this dirt pattern is the classic indicator of a water leak. The gaps are one reason I really dislike using any kind of tape. The odds of it leaking in the future are significantly higher IMHO.
Also FYI, the rear egress window comes from the factory with huge gaps in the lower seal, it may leak a little water when towing but that should go back out the gaps. Dust however will not, and you will see significant dust accumulations along the inside of the window and traaack, on the rear of the blind, and above the chrome belt line strip. Oliver Service told me that they were all made this way and they don’t bother fixing the problem. I guess it isn’t a problem until the day you venture off pavement…. which bothers me because the trailer is prominently advertised as off-road capable. Unlatch the red handles and swing the entire window up to inspect or fix the seal.
John Davies
Spokane WA
Thank you. This is why I pushed the egress window out and thoroughly cleaned all the tracks. I even lifted the rubber up and cleaned everything and toothbrushed the weep holes! Now you can understand the reasoning behind naming my Casita 'OCD' ~ Obessive Casita Disorder!
I'm hoping that I don't get too much dust now that I finally figured out how to pop the screen back in. Looks like such a poor design to use those metal clips to hold it in. I had no idea that screen is stationary which is why I couldn't figure out how to put it back. There's at least a quarter inch gap and a dust collector there. Certainly something to keep an eye on.
Now ~ On to installing the MaxxAir Window Vents that I purposely took off my Casita before selling her to use on the ILOVHER!
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37 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:
That looks great! I think you need to give yourself a HUGE pat on the back. And, enjoy an evening with your feet up.
None of the really good adhesive sealants are easy-to-use, imo. Nor, do they store well. Short shelf life, even sealed with foil and refrigerated.
Next time you need it, loctite marine can be ordered from Lowe's. They don't stock it on the shelf. We can get it at our local store within a day or three. With a fresh julian date.
I did in fact use the Loctite Marine from HD in the big caulk tube. I won't be buying it again as it was a bear to get flowing and it was not particularly easy to work with. I'm sure it's a great product, just wish I would have bought the smaller hand held tube.
Fridge Fan quit
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
Yeah, I don't stress this kind of stuff unless it's a major appliance. I'm just working the bugs out as this is only my second trip in ILOVHER. I will say this fridge doesn't stay as cold as my old 2007 Dometic (although same model). I never had a fan for it in my Casita and never needed one, even in the desert. I usually would take the vent covers off in hot weather, maybe clip a small electric fan on it and call it a day!