Boilermaker Chemist

I am posting this in case anyone else has the same problem. The gooseneck on one of my reading lights came loose. The flange is attached to the ceiling with two rivets. I drilled out the rivets with a 1/8” drill bit to get access to the lock nut that holds on the gooseneck. I removed the lock nut, coated the treads with Blue LocTite and re-tightened. Then simply reattached the flange using 1/8” diam x 3/8” long rivets. Problem solved.

Awesome info, thanks so much!

Thanks for sharing, I was thinking about doing something like this but just with suction cup hooks. But DW said it would be too complicated putting it up and taking it down each time and be in the way of using the toilet while drying. Command hooks would definitely be more secure than suction cups and no holes need to be drilled. I'm gonna show her this, maybe she won't think I'm crazy after all!

Thanks for the suggestion. I have to admit, I kind of like that approach. What is the hardware that you used and where did you buy it? I guess your curtain doesn't cover the door - do you ever get any leaks into the main cabin?

Looking to add a shower track in our new-to-us rig without drilling any holes. Appreciate any feedback that you can provide. Thanks in advance! Mike

I ended up buying the Blue Sea Systems 6006-BSS 300 Amp switch since the main fuse in mine is 300 amps:

Haha, reminds me of what my brother-in-law said he learned in the marines about assume - it makes an ASS out of U and ME. I hate to admit that the older I get, the more I am reminded of that quote!

The way I read it, TWO 1/0 cables would be required, which is equivalent to a single 4/0 cable. Admittedly, I am not an electrician, so if I am missing something, please feel free to correct me.

4/0 is what was factory installed on our 2023 model. Since main fuse is 300 amp, conductors have to be rated for that amount of current.

Since this disconnect switch will be handling a lot of amps I wanted to be sure to use the proper size busbar for this application. So I did a little more research and found a very helpful document on the Victron Energy website entitled “Wiring Unlimited” by Margreet Leeftink. Assuming that I did my calculations right, a 1/8” x 1” copper busbar only has a surface area of about 80 mm2. According to the table below, the surface area for my 4/0 cable is 107 mm2. So I am going to do a little more investigating before I order those parts.

Thanks for that warning, I guess that is one reason there is a disconnect from the solar panels!

Thanks for the detailed info, I like your approach rather than using a cable. Now I can order my parts . . .

Thanks for the photo, it is pretty close to what I am looking for. Exactly what is the connector from the battery terminal to the battery switch? Where did you purchase?

Thank so much for the offer, Mossey. I actually have a local shop nearby that has made cables for me in the past, so it will be quicker and more cost effective should I decide to go the cable route. But thanks again.

I am a new Oliver owner and am surprised to find that there is no main battery disconnect. Since we will be making frequent, short trips in and out of storage I would like to add one. I plan to purchase a Blue Seas 350 amp switch and connect it on the negative side. I have seen posts about using a short cable or small bus bar to connect the switch directly to the battery post. That seems like a simpler solution than others I have seen. I would appreciate hearing your comments about exactly how to do that – parts needed and where to purchase. We have the solar package with AGM batteries connected with 4/0 cables. Thanks in advance for any and all advice on this!