Boilermaker Chemist

I’m contemplating doing that. Can you describe your installation?

I have the same issue. When I had my OE2 in for service at the factory Jason told me that the drain pan on the Truma is very shallow and can easily overflow at the front without flowing out the drain line. Note Truma manual states operation at an incline of over 4% can cause damage to the unit due to running the compressor dry.

Thanks for the tip on checking the compression fittings. I will do that.

I would assume that it is Marine Grade Tinned Copper UL1426.

Well, it says WAGO on the side of the connectors. Here's what Xantrex tech support says: "As for the levers, you may be able to get one or 2 to stay open, but usually they do not, and they have a strong spring. It is normal." Thanks for the tip on the ferrules, I was thinking about something like that but wasn't sure what to use.

I don't think so. But the locknut on the romex connector was loose so I speculate that may have allowed some movement as we traveled on the bumpy interstate highways.

I am posting this in case anyone else has the same issue. Recently I noticed that my Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 2000 was not charging my batteries when hooked up to shore power. However, the microwave was working so the inverter portion of the Xantrex was working properly. The EMS showed good shore power voltage, 60 Hz and no errors. No errors were shown on the Xantrex external display. However, I learned on this forum that there is an app for the Xantrex (FXC Control). Upon downloading and launching the app I saw the following alert: “Utility Power Not Available/Qualified”. This indicated that there was a problem somewhere with input power. I removed the small cover at the back of the inverter. The input and output AC connections are made by WAGO lever connectors. There is a small hole in each lever to allow the voltage to be checked with probes and a multimeter. I measured 120 V at the output of the inverter but no voltage at the input. It turns out that there was a bad connection at the WAGO connector, perhaps caused by road vibration. After disconnecting shore power and upon removal I found that the stranded AC input wires were rather mashed together rather than twisted together. I cut those ends off, removed 10 mm of insulation as specified in the install instructions and used electrician’s pliers to gently twist the wires together. (Note: the install instructions also specify that the exposed copper wire should be tinned with lead-free solder). I found the reinstall to be very difficult because the levers are spring loaded and will not stay open so each wire had to be inserted in sequence. The short length and heavy gage of the wire combined with having to hold the lever open with one hand made this a very difficult task. Nevertheless, I was finally able to insert them properly using a pair of needle nose pliers. This resolved my problem and everything is working properly again. I will also note that the app makes it much easier to check or change the settings on the Xantrex unit compared to doing so on the external display. I highly recommend it.

I am posting this in case anyone else has the same problem. The gooseneck on one of my reading lights came loose. The flange is attached to the ceiling with two rivets. I drilled out the rivets with a 1/8” drill bit to get access to the lock nut that holds on the gooseneck. I removed the lock nut, coated the treads with Blue LocTite and re-tightened. Then simply reattached the flange using 1/8” diam x 3/8” long rivets. Problem solved.

Awesome info, thanks so much!

Thanks for sharing, I was thinking about doing something like this but just with suction cup hooks. But DW said it would be too complicated putting it up and taking it down each time and be in the way of using the toilet while drying. Command hooks would definitely be more secure than suction cups and no holes need to be drilled. I'm gonna show her this, maybe she won't think I'm crazy after all!

Thanks for the suggestion. I have to admit, I kind of like that approach. What is the hardware that you used and where did you buy it? I guess your curtain doesn't cover the door - do you ever get any leaks into the main cabin?

Looking to add a shower track in our new-to-us rig without drilling any holes. Appreciate any feedback that you can provide. Thanks in advance! Mike

I ended up buying the Blue Sea Systems 6006-BSS 300 Amp switch since the main fuse in mine is 300 amps:

Haha, reminds me of what my brother-in-law said he learned in the marines about assume - it makes an ASS out of U and ME. I hate to admit that the older I get, the more I am reminded of that quote!

The way I read it, TWO 1/0 cables would be required, which is equivalent to a single 4/0 cable. Admittedly, I am not an electrician, so if I am missing something, please feel free to correct me.

4/0 is what was factory installed on our 2023 model. Since main fuse is 300 amp, conductors have to be rated for that amount of current.

Since this disconnect switch will be handling a lot of amps I wanted to be sure to use the proper size busbar for this application. So I did a little more research and found a very helpful document on the Victron Energy website entitled “Wiring Unlimited” by Margreet Leeftink. Assuming that I did my calculations right, a 1/8” x 1” copper busbar only has a surface area of about 80 mm2. According to the table below, the surface area for my 4/0 cable is 107 mm2. So I am going to do a little more investigating before I order those parts.

Thanks for that warning, I guess that is one reason there is a disconnect from the solar panels!

Thanks for the detailed info, I like your approach rather than using a cable. Now I can order my parts . . .

Thanks for the photo, it is pretty close to what I am looking for. Exactly what is the connector from the battery terminal to the battery switch? Where did you purchase?

Thank so much for the offer, Mossey. I actually have a local shop nearby that has made cables for me in the past, so it will be quicker and more cost effective should I decide to go the cable route. But thanks again.

I am a new Oliver owner and am surprised to find that there is no main battery disconnect. Since we will be making frequent, short trips in and out of storage I would like to add one. I plan to purchase a Blue Seas 350 amp switch and connect it on the negative side. I have seen posts about using a short cable or small bus bar to connect the switch directly to the battery post. That seems like a simpler solution than others I have seen. I would appreciate hearing your comments about exactly how to do that – parts needed and where to purchase. We have the solar package with AGM batteries connected with 4/0 cables. Thanks in advance for any and all advice on this!