DBL-R

Thank you Dave there is definitely resistance when you push and pull the lever. Still working on getting that drain stem out if I can do that then I’ll just use a stopper in there when traveling hopefully that will eliminate the problem. Thanks for the help. Ron

Any idea how I can remove the center piece/stem in the drain (see photo)? I tried a a little penetrating oil and flathead counterclockwise but it wouldn’t budge a Thank you Ron

Hi Dave, Yes, I. Have the pull handle near the toilet, but it doesn’t seem to stop backups from the shower drain. You are correct about the cable disappearing into the abyss. I am assuming that you had someone install the gate valve? Once you had the gate valve installed, I am assuming that you eliminated the shower drain pop-up and then installed the TubShroom, is that correct? I am headed back into the city tomorrow for our next trip, I am going to raise the from as high as possible prior to closing the valve and then head to HomeDepot and pick up a new pop up seal, We’ll see if that helps. Once you remove the pop-up cap how to you remove the stem that the pop-up screws onto? Thank you Ron

Thank you Peter, I took all of the drawers out and removed the sink faucet and sure enough the clog was due to calcium deposits. I cleaned it all up and everything is working great again. Little by little, we are resolving all the little bugs that come with a new camper. I am hopeful that if I fully drain the gray tank, close the valve and seal the shower pop-up, we may mitigate future shower backups, fingers crossed. Ron

Hello, any chance that you have photos of the installation? Ron

Sorry about the confusion, it’s our first Olli! Yes, it is a 2015 Legacy Elite I Ron

I’mmmmm back! So I was able to access my Oliver today and attached is the photo under the seat closest to the bathroom. The circled area on the lower right is the cable that attaches to the pull handle in the bathroom. I tried to follow the cable but there is no what that I can get my hand under there. I am assuming that the circled area on the left is the black tank valve. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated Ron

Thank you both for the advice this si very helpful, the gray and black tank valves appear to be working fine. The back flow valve pull. In the bathroom is always somewhat difficult to push/pull. Ron

Hello, I am hoping that someone can provide a diagram of the shower plumbing. I want to replace the pop up drain washer and a looking for the right washer to replace it with. We have had several instances when traveling that the shower pan backs up with dirty water and yes the back flow valve is closed. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thank you Ron

Yes it has the electric heat strip and the gas furnace both controlled by the thermostat. The difficulty is the interior shroud size and extending too far to the rear where the light is. Thermostat.heic

Thank you, I don’t think that I have the garage height for that unit. It appears taller than the existing unit

Hello everyone, we’re looking for some advice on which A/C unit to replace our original Coleman Airxcel 47201A876 with. We started this adventure by going to what was our local Oliver dealer here in Denver. Based on their recommendation, we were going to go with the Premier Products Eco-Cool unit. That was until we discovered that the Eco-Cool’s shroud would cover one of the rear interior lights. Based on Oliver’s recommendation, we decided that wasn’t something we wanted to do. The dealer is willing to install any other unit we recommend—but, sorry, we don’t do this for a living! 😁 Hence this post. We’d really appreciate any recommendations from those who have replaced the original Coleman unit, particularly if you’ve found a replacement that fits without modifying the existing installation. Thanks in advance for any advice. Ron

Hello everyone, I bought a new converter (PD4045CSV) and installed it this afternoon. Now everything is working as they should and batteries are charging. this was an easy do-it myself project. When I removed the old converter it appears as though a resistor (R24) came unsoldered (see photo). I wonder if I were to resolver the resistor in place, if I would then have an operable spare. Next project will be to replace the shocks and the repack the wheel bears and we will be ready to hit the road. Ron

Thank you

Thank you for the advice, I will certainly look at them. Ron

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Everything appears to be wired correctly and the fuses are good. I spoke with OTT and other than the batteries loosing voltage, there is no way for me to test it. The suggested taking it to a service center and having them do diagnostics. Since it is in the garage, on a battery tender, and not winterized I will do that this spring. Since it is new to us, it will be worth a piece of mind to have it check out. While we are at is does anyone know the make and model number for the shocks? I want to replace those and all I could find was the Monroe 555001, not sure if that is correct or not. I am waiting on a call back from the parts department. Thank you all for you assistance. Ron

Thank you, I am using a Deltran battery tender, it’s a smart charger and it has not fully charged the batteries (yet). My panel does not match what was in the manual!

Thank you Mike I think the issue is that when plugged into shore power it doesn’t charge the batteries and if there is no sun to charge them they will die. Ron

Thank you everyone, this forum is awesome support

They are now at 12.4 v and still chaarging, the batteries were replaced in December of 2023, with deep cell marine batteries. I still don’t know why it isn’t charging when on shore power and it lights and other items are only running off of the batteries.

Great news! Overnight, the batteries charged and are now at 12.2 volts. Everything works as it should—lights, TV, stereo, and so on. It’s not connected to shore power. My new theory is that the 12-volt batteries supply power to all those items and charge properly when sunlight or solar power is available. When plugged into shore power, the 120-volt power will power the fridge, microwave, heater, and air conditioner. However, the other items continue to draw power from the 12-volt batteries and don’t switch over to the 120-volt power source and ultimately drain the batteries. Looking st the owner’s manual there should be 3-25 amp fuses, looking at the panel there are 2-30 amp fuses and one empty slot (see photo). Any thoughts? Thank you Ron

I put the batteries on a battery tender we’ll see if that helps out. I also tried a second 30 amp 120 V circuit on the outside of the house that made no difference. I thought maybe my power cable was bad but when I plugged that into 120 V the microwave works, but all the lights are still very dim. That was just an update. Thank you for all your help. It’s time to get some rest. Good night.