2 of 5 Main Power Panel rockers don't rock

[chamcadd]

The 2 right main power panel rockers to left of the door, do not rock to the top. My 2008 Oliver 17' just got 2 new batteries. I've checked all the circuit breakers and fuses in the panel under the side table. They are all fine. I reset the GFI outlet on the outside. What should I do next? I sent Dustin B. at Oliver pictures of the main power panel and the 2 rockers switches that refuse to rock to the top. I will talk to him again on Monday. Please let me know if you have any ideas.

Thanks, Charlie

[bugeyedriver]

Early Elite models were often very unique from on another due to our personal requests or production line changes. What is your hull number? Could you post a picture and tell us what the functions of your two malcontent rocker switches might be? This might be a question for our resident electronic guru, Scubarx, to handle.

[chamcadd]

I don't know where to find the hull # of my Oliver. It was made in late 2007 and called a 2008. The 5 rocker panel are labeled from left to right: 1 - radio 2- blower 3- fan 4-water system 5- mast light. Again # 4 and 5 will not rock to the on position. You can see pictures of the panel at:

 

http://s192.photobucket.com/user/cham43 ... t=3&page=1

 

I do't know how to put pictures in this post. Can attachments be posted?

 

I has notice that no lighting in the trailer will turn on with the # 4 and #5 rockers not on. Hopefully someone with have a answer.

Thanks,

Charlie

[SeaDawg]

Charlie,

I think the panel in your trailer is a replacement, not oem. I've not seen one like it in any Oliver. Boats have "blower" and "mast light" swtiches (which may themselves contain additional breakers), but Oliver trailers do not have blowers or mast lights. Unless, of course, someone has modded one, for some arcane and unkown reason.

 

Sherry

[bugeyedriver]

Charlie,

 

Your hull number should be found as the last two numbers in your VIN. Yours is likely 12 or earlier.

 

It looks like the Water Pump switch and Master Light switch are the ones affected. Did you go from twelve volt batteries to six volt Trojans? Were the switches functioning normally prior to getting new batteries? Have you confirmed they are wired together correctly? Could it be two old switches with under-volt protection that are overly sensitive (since the others did not quit working)

 

Has Dustin or anyone else gotten back with you yet?

 

Pete