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Everything posted by SeaDawg

  1. Won't change my mind. It has adhesion, but not a true adhesive. Imo. it's self healing when adding mechanical fasteners. I wouldn't drive with vents open in the trailer,if thie light is only held by synthetic butyl, as we sometimes do. Glad it has worked for you, and as I said, not familiar with the brand. Imo, synthetic butyl is the very best bedding compound for windows and lights. It stays flexible for a long time (maybe forever.?) We'll see.
  2. Set your fridge to propane (cycle the button) and let us know how it works.
  3. If by Scubarx post it means that Oliver has gone to silicone caulk everywhere, I'm not happy. I hate that stuff, except where in contact with lexan or polycarbonate, imo. Too difficult to remove, and even silicone won't stick to old silicone residue.
  4. @DavePhelps, you'd probably be interested in this article by Practical Sailor. Your fave, sika 291, and mine, loctite marine pl fast cure, tied for first place in extensive testing. 😃 https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/marine-sealant-adhesion-tests Practical Sailor is my go-to source for all things fiberglass. Back in the day, when it was print only, we kept issues in binders, with an index. (Far before Google days....) When we replaced our Oliver sign/third tail light, our sign was crazed, and broke when we tried to remove it to rebed. I think Oliver used epoxy tabs, and 4200, old school. Loctite is very thick, but I think you may have had an old tube. I always look at the Julian manufacturers date. It's only good for a year. Six months (maybe) in the garage fridge, sealed.
  5. Dave, bed-it is advertised as a sealant, not adhesive. I've never used it, so can't comment, but we've always used mechanical fastening with butyl. Their website seems to indicate need for mechanical fasteners. It's not strictly butyl, bit a proprietary synthetic. I'm going to look into it further. https://bed-it.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmMayBhDuARIsAM9HM8dXGcsPUM4Q1gkegJ1KqTXDP31KkBDpG1tTgV8nhpgRL4YtIdHdlxAaAihcEALw_wcB We've used a number of great sikaflex products, in specific applications. Sikaflex makes amazing products, and a huge array of them, for specific applications. 291 is polyurethane, not polyether, so not recommended for bonding to plexi or polycarbonate. I don't know what the Oliver sign is, but guessing plexi, so I went with a polyether for caulk, (after butyl, for perimeter) compatible with plexi. Just in case. https://usa.sika.com/en/industry/global-industry-content-pages-to-keep/commercial-vessels/elastic-sealing-bonding/watertight-sealingbonding/sikaflex-291.html?_gl=1*1b55yh0*_ga*MTM3NzMwMDk0OC4xNzE2Njc4NzAy*_ga_K04G1QB2XC*MTcxNjY3ODcwMi4xLjAuMTcxNjY3ODgyMi4wLjAuMA.. The loctite marine has been a good "all arounder" for us, for the last few years. None of these adhesive sealants have a long shelf life, so keeping one around for most projects ( fiberglass to wood, metal, plexi, etc.) has worked for us. We'll see how it plays out. Works in progress, avoiding silicon. 🙂
  6. Hi, and welcome to two venerable "clubs," the Oliver family, and the Every Day is Saturday Club. We've been lucky enough to enjoy 17 seasons in both. Here's to your adventures! 🍾
  7. And, start with small, sharp bit at low speed. Expand.
  8. Our 2008 connection is not furrion. Don't know about future years. Could this have been a previous owner mod?
  9. You know my feelings on the Oliver light. Permanent solution is remove, rebed with butyl, and add mechanical fasteners/ screws. Butyl is a wonderful, pretty much permanent sealant, but not an adhesive. That said, loctite marine sealant, fast cure is what we've been using as a polyether flexible sealant adhesive for a number of years, ollie and boat. No yellowing in Florida sun (yet.) Polyethers play well with fiberglass, wood, and plastics. Def no to 5200. Either of the 3m 4000 or 4200 are difficult to remove, later, imo, though 4000 has better uv resistance, so I've read. Pick your poison. And, add an eyebrow of rv Eze gutter over the light, as a bonus. The loctite product is "reasonable" at about $17 at lowes or Depot. Do read the date code. It's sometimes out of date at big box stores, and then it's tough to work, and useless.
  10. I like the white marinetex, as I've suggested many times, for minor projects. It's always in our supply locker, as in most boaters. It's "pretty close" to our Oliver color, "pretty close" to the boat color, to fill in screw holes. If you cover the filling with saran wrap or tape (remove promptly after set), it stays fairly glossy. And smooth. Wprk on cooler days (70s) No need in inobtrusive areas to gel coat, as you would need to do with bondo or fiberglass paste. . Which is a pita. If you don't like the end result, it's easy to drill out and redo. There are many videos out there on YouTube.
  11. I'll look forward to your posts. You can compare heights on any low profile toilet. Our 2008 Aqua magic has been great. All the composting toilets are tall. If you like that concept, buy/get a footstool. If not, retrofit, and join the rest of us with the stinky slinky.
  12. Morning coffee = camping lifeblood, for many of us... brain food.
  13. Any time we can help, we're here.
  14. The powder calgon has been discontinued in the US and Canada, for a number of years. (Hence, the Polish version in gj's photo.) Liquid has limited availability. Washing soda (not baking soda) has the same major active ingredient. Many dishwasher pods also use it. (Sodium carbonate.) Or, borax (different chemical, same effect.). Or powdered laundry detergent. Lots of good choices.
  15. Thanks! We have a FanTastic vent, but a number of reviews mentioned that they had other brands than MaxxAir, and it worked! I'll download the install manual and see if it looks like it could work for us.
  16. It fit our 2008, with a bit of filing of rough edges.
  17. A few threads for your reading pleasure:
  18. Hi, Fernando. You now own a little piece of history! #6! Wow. Hehr was the original window manufacturer. Some years ago, they were bought out by Lippert. I do not believe that the exact same size windows are available, anymore, but slightly larger is . I would open a new ticket, and specifically ask Jason, as they refitted #1 as original, a number of years ago. That said, there may be nothing wrong with your original windows. The mildewed seals can be replaced. Do they all open and close properly? The back window may or may not actually be the leaking culprit . Most of us early hull owners have found that the true problem was the Oliver sign above the rear window. You'll know if that's the culprit if you tape all around it with clear or white duct tape. That said, our rear window did leak at one time, fairly early on. We corrected that problem by removing the window, cleaning up all the old caulk (not an easy job with all that silicone smeared everywhere on yours), and reinstalled it using synthetic butyl "tape" as a bedding material. Our rear window rough opening was pretty "rough" indeed, and a tiny bit larger for the window than it should have been, but since carefully reinstalling with butyl many years ago, we've had no leaks from the window. If any of the double pane windows have fogged, there are a number of places around the country that will remove and repair fogged windows. I can highly recommend Suncoast Design in Hudson Florida, should you want to travel. There are still a handful of original 2008 owners who are friends of mine. Some, like Pete (bugeyedriver on the forum) are still active here. We're all happy to help. Sherry/Seadawg
  19. That's an interesting, and lovely toilet, as toilets go. Small footprint, fairly modern appearance. Reasonable price. Wish I'd seen that before I bought the Separett for the barn. (I thoroughly hate the Separett. ) How long have they had the Ogo?
  20. If you're treating grey tank with pinesol, be prepared for a lot of heavy pine smelling vapors coming from the sink drains, etc. I often use pinesol to clean my toilets at home. But, I run the exhaust fan, afterwards. Otherwise, I smell pinesol for days. Pinesol was on the list of agents that killed covid back in 2020, so I started using it again, then, since disinfectants being very tough to find... but, I scored a gallon of pinesol. 🙂
  21. Since 2008, we use the cushions, plus a topper. Latest version is linenspa, from Amazon. I liked it so much, i ordered it for the second guest room. Everyone has different comfort levels.
  22. Hi, @NomadLife, and welcome to the forum. I've seen the photos of the canopy you shared, and I doubt it's a good option for your Ollie, if you're trying to run your ac while shading your Ollie. Are you a full timer? Are you looking for a portable shade shelter? What are your goals? To protect the gelcoat from the florida sun, we've successfully used a couple of great marine paste waxes over the years on our 2008, applied twice a year. Do you have the solar option on your 2020? Could you amend your profile and signature to reflect your status, please. happy camping.
  23. @CRM, the original demo Oliver had red and black graphics, shown at Q in early 2009. Yours may be the one sold in August of 2009 to a couple in California and Arizona, as it has blue and grey graphics? Not sure. The last one made before the hiatus in December, 2009, went to Jim Oliver, if i remember correctly. . However, I can't really trust 15 yeat old memories. I only remember three, and maybe jims was the demo, so two???. But, maybe Scubarx knows of others. He spent a lot more time at the factory than I did on those days (and still does.) You definitely own a piece of Oliver history. Lucky find!
  24. Unfortunately. You'll need more truck than the cybertruck or the Rivian to pull one of these. My understanding is that even the 24 footer Living vehicle starts out at a whopping 11k dry weight, max towing capacity of either of these electric trucks, and goes up from there. I see they have a new cyberTrailer coming on their website. Hopefully it will be light enough...
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