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SeaDawg

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Everything posted by SeaDawg

  1. Gotta love those impromptu mini rallies! How fun that must have been!
  2. @viola, congratulations on your new to you Ollie, and welcome to the forum. We've enjoyed our Elite so much, now in our 15th camping season! You said that you were afraid the lit leds were running down your batteries. What readings are you getting on the zamp solar monitor and the seelevel? (You should be seeing something at or slightly above 13. 2 in full sun, and something like 12.6 or so at night, even if you're not getting shore power, if you're not running any other loads like fans,, fridge, etc. Those led tail lights don't actually use a lot of power.) Even if you're not getting a charge from the house circuit, imho your solar should be enough to keep the batteries up, if you're not using a lot of other things in the trailer. Tell us about the house circuit you're plugged into. 15 amp? 20 amp? Anything else in your house using power on that circuit? Anything else running in the trailer? @John E Davies is correct, if your connector is corroded, its best to replace. However, we've also had new owners who left the pigtail up in the rain or condensation, and moisture caused the "ghost" lights. Their issues disappeared when the connector was allowed to dry out, by hanging the connector so the openings are down, out of the rain. A photo of your connector would help. As John said, you may have tripped the house circuit breaker or its gfci, or you could have tripped the gfci of the trailer. When you plug the trailer into the house circuit, you should hear a "click" inside the trailer when the transfer switch kicks in, and the microwave (if you have one) makes a chirping sound. Sometimes, all it takes is disconnecting the trailer, and reconnecting, with someone inside the trailer listening. Guessing you've already done so, but first step is to check the house circuit breaker, see if it's tripped. If there's a gfci on that circuit, test and reset that. Make sure you actually have good power coming from the outlet you're plugging into . And, check that outlet for proper ground, and reverse polarity. I think you have at least two separate problems here. Possibly three. Best to just start from the beginning, and rule things out.
  3. We're all very happy for you, @MAG! No one is born knowing any of this stuff, and there are always plenty of people here to offer help and advice from their experiences. And, Ryan at bluesky is one if the best tech support people I've ever had the pleasure to work with. You've learned some things along the way, and now it's time to get out there and enjoy some camping and relaxation time in your Ollie. You've earned it.
  4. Ralph, did you put screening on your fridge vents? That cuts air circulation. We always had them, but didn't routinely camp in high temps. Do you run fridge on propane or dc while driving? Are the fins clear or frosted over, and fridge not packed so tight that air can circulate? On our older dometic and norcold fridges,, the thermostat could be adjusted a bit by sliding the thermistor down the fin. I'm not sure how the new ones operate . Someone else will have to chime in on that. I'm guessing you have the norcold fridge. 45 is not a good temp for foods. Ok for produce, meats won't last as long. Any ground meat, and raw poultry, I'd put in the freezer. If it's 90 to 100 daytime, your fridge may take awhile to cool down a bit after nighttime temps. A fan inside the fridge can help circulate air. A clip on fan outside top vent while camped can help pull exhaust . You can also just open the top vent, for awhile, to allow more exhaust area.
  5. The anode is intentionally made of a metal that erodes more easily than your tank material, to keep the tank whole. Your anode did its intended job. It doesn't matter whether you run the water heater on gas or electric. Dissimilar metals will create a chemical reaction called electrolysis that will eat away at metals. Better that it eats the anode than your tank. I suspect your hard water has more to do with the anode's rapid demise than anything else. Draining your water heater tank before storage will help it last longer, as well. And, as a bonus, you'll see how much your anode has eroded, and replace it as necessary. ($20 for an anode is much cheaper than replacing a water heater. Don't buy the super cheap ones. They sometimes aren't made to erode as quickly as they should.) You'll likely want to start using that filter to fill your tank.
  6. Go to the three bars/"hamburger" button. From the drop down, selrct account, then account settings, then settings area, then signature. It's quite the treasure hunt to find it....
  7. Even the least effective camco cuts out a lot of solids. Not all, of course, but it definitely helps. Good question, Mike. @Imelda, I'll look for instructions in another post, but basically, you'll want to pull a strong vinegar solution in like you are winterizing. do not draw it in to the water heater. Pull water through the lines by opening one faucet at a time, just like you do when winterizing, but you won't see pink, you'll smell vinegar. Don't forget the showers, and the toilet. The acid in vinegar can mess with valves and seals,, so let it sit for twenty or thirty minutes,, and flush very thoroughly with plain water, everywhere, every faucet. (That's my opinion. Others may think otherwise. )
  8. Geo, in your photo, it looks like you might be using stacked patio blocks/pavers to support your jacks? I'd be extremely uncomfortable with that, as well. I had a bad experience once with a concrete block shattering under the weight of a jack. Never again. We always use wood. Sometimes, you can't see the hairline cracks, or internal cracking, in those formed concrete blocks.
  9. Or, if codes allow, you could dig a pit, and build one of these: https://homestead-and-survival.com/18-outhouse-plans-and-ideas-for-the-homestead/ My cousin in Alaska has three cabins, and three outhouses, on her property. We helped her set up and build an outdoor shower room on the back side of one of them. The eccotemp portable propane units are awesome. We've used one for 14 years, on our camping property. (We have a spring collection system for washing water.)
  10. You were probably/hopefully out camping when we discussed this again a few weeks ago. Here's a link.
  11. Liana, the portable tanks are mainly used to slowly transport contents from your trailer to a campground dumpstation. Some people just roll them along, pulling behind them as they walk, some tanks are made to attach to the ball of the truck and be slowly towed. If you don't have a septic system at your camping property, you probably want to look at some alternative methods for handling waste, like a composting toilet, luggable loo, wag bags, etc. for long term camping without moving the trailer. Or, perhaps that rv park you mentioned before as being nearby has a honey wagon service that would come by your spot and pump out your black tank, for a fee?
  12. @Liana, did you reprogram/ change settings on your solar controller for lithium? Congratulations on the upgrade.
  13. We're rather partial to silicone, as it doesn't attract and trap dirt as much as many other lubricants. And doesn't smell as bad as wd40
  14. I saw this yesterday, and doubt we have anything to worry about. I went through the list of manufacturers, though, in case i had any friends with sob trailers or coaches who didn't see the alert. Thankfully, I don't. If you do, you might send an email. Looks like none of those manufacturers intend to notify owners til summer is half over.
  15. There's not much info for troubleshooting a blank display. What you did - removing the fuse to cut power and reboot- is about it, and checking connection at the panel and power source. I "think" if you have a loose connection at one of the sensors, you would normally show an error signal instead of digits, not a blank display. (Opn or sht/open or short) A blank display would probably indicate no power, because of a loose connection to the power source , or the panel, or a blown fuse. Or a bad or failing panel. (Or a tiny gremlin inside your panel, tugging at the wire and reseating it while you mowed the lawn, put out the awning, and started up the fridge... 🤣 🧟‍♂️) Outside possibility that your continued punching of the buttons knocked out a tiny bit of corrosion or debris that limited contact, and you'll be just fine in the future... (remember how we used to "fix" touch tone phone buttons that wouldn't work by holding down the hook at the phone, and pushing the buttons repeatedly till they once again made contact?) We actually like our seelevel, enough that we installed the same seelevel system on the boat when we installed new tanks. Among those available, it has great reviews, and many people consider it an upgrade to other cheaper systems, and it was a relatively simple install and calibration. Used to be made in Canada, and probably still is. 15th season with the trailer, and fingers crossed that I didn't gump us by saying we liked the seelevel, and its reliability...
  16. Are you getting no (dark) display, on all the guages on the seelevel?
  17. NPS put this out on social media, in a humorous attempt to make more people aware of the dangers. Every year, we see reports of folks trying to interact or take selfies with wildlife, with disastrous and sometimes fatal results . None of us, I'm sure.
  18. It does look lovely. Close to Newland, 30 minutes or so from Banner Elk. We love Banner Elk. Love that they will offer dog walking.
  19. Welcome, and hope you have a great camping season. We are sailors as well. There's a lot of carryover, but obviously, other things are different in a land yacht. When you visit NY, I hope you will find space at Letchworth s p for a few days. It's a beautiful park, and worth several days. (My husband hails from western NY.)
  20. Pretty heavy, at almost 100 pounds. I'd look at something lighter, personally.
  21. I use Samsung notes on my android, all the time. Not as extensive as your use of apple notes, but it seems I always have my phone with me, and paper lists seem to get lost...
  22. You've had excellent advice so far. I'll try to consolidate,, in one routine, which was ours when we had 3ways. I have a dc compressor fridge now in our Ollie, but had two different 3ways in our Oliver, 3ways in other campers, and this was our experience, fwiw. Your friend was correct. Solar is plenty to run your fridge on gas, even in crappy weather, if all that is running is the fridge. (Gas mode does require dc power, but very little. The fridge won't shut down for low battery til you're almost flat. ) check your battery level when you enter the trailer, to make sure you're all good before you begin, since you have no power at the storage unit, before you turn on the solar and battery disconnect switches. If you have the norcold, make sure you are set to gas, not auto, because if you run out of gas, it will revert to 12v operation on its own, and that not only uses a lot of battery, but is the least efficient (and most power greedy) mode of the fridge. It will run your house battery down, even with solar, imo. In our experience, we found the fridge cooled faster if we loaded a couple frozen water jugs and cold, non perishable items in the fridge after turning it on, in the fridge compartment, not the freezer. (Cold water, beer, sodas, unopened chilled condiments, etc.). These cold items provide a steadying cold sink, just like your home fridge. The frozen water jugs went back in a cooler after fridge was at temp, and we loaded the food we wanted to take, and we used the thawing jugs for drinking water on the road. Resist the temptation to jam the fridge to the max. You need air circulation to keep the fins clear of ice. Especially, leave free space near the fins. Pack stuff close together, but not high items, there. Before you turn the fridge on, turn your gas valve on SLOWLY if you've had it turned off. Then, light a burner on the stove and run for 30 to 45 seconds, or longer, with a clear blue flame, to insure gas line is free of air pockets. (If you have air pockets in the line, you'll see a lot of orange or yellow, or sputtery flame, but that's ok. Wait til it's all blue flames, none missing, with tiny yellow tips above the blue, steady, and then you're all good to turn on the fridge. ) If you don't have one, I'd recommend a thermometer for the fridge. One with an outside wireless readout is great. After you've turned on the fridge, you'll hear it light off. (It usually clicks a few times, that's the igniter, then you hear a little whoosh as it lights. (It may do this a couple times, with a pause between attempts.) I could usually hear this from inside the trailer, if I wasn't running fans, and there wasn't a lot of ambient noise. After the fridge lights, if you go out and put your hand near the outside upper vent, you'll feel some heat exhaust after a few minutes, and you'll know it's running/flame is good. (Its hard to see the fridge flame, as its really small, even with the bottom vent off) After five or ten minutes or so, open the fridge, put your hand on the freezer bottom, and you should feel it's cooler than before, though not super cold. That lets you know it's started the cooling process. (30 minutes in, you can probably sense a bit of frost on the freezer floor with your hand.) Our gas fridge took about 6 hours empty to cool down to foodsafe temp of 41, three or 4 hours depending on ambient (outdoor) temperature if we preloaded with the frozen jugs and cold nonpershiables. Winter in Florida it obviously took less time. Summer, more. Working with a 3way is very different from a home fridge, but you'll soon find it's easy and routine, and a great asset for boondocking. It does require some getting "used to." If your subdivision allows overnight in the driveway for loading, like ours, I'd go get the trailer day before, start the fridge, and get on with enjoyment. It saves a lot of load tv/unload/ load trailer time. I'm sure others will find things to add. Steph and dubs alarm is great, if you camp with ac, which we rarely do. Fridge runs great on ac power, so if that's your plan, get their alarm.
  23. Well, just wondering if the remote falls down somewhere sometimes, if it might turn the radio on? I think carnivore is likely on the right track. Especially if it turns on at the same time each night.
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