ScubaRx
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Posts posted by ScubaRx
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We bought a Yamaha EF3000iSEB soon after we bought our 2008 Elite. It has served us well for these past 10+ years and now rides on the front of our 2014 Elite II.
It will be claimed that it is too much generator and a smaller/less expensive one will do.
If I were to do it all again, I’d do it the same. I’m all about overkill. That way nothing is ever marginal.
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Every night, Reacher (the 100+ lb Doberman), gets the side dinette made down into his bed. The two little dogs sleep on our beds.
When we had our Elite (one of the rare twin bed models) the big dog slept on the floor.
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Yea.....
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Do you have a switch panel in your rearmost upper cabinet?
When was the last time your water pump was operational?
There is an additional pump switch in the bathroom. I believe it is under the upper ledge of the caddy type insert in the sink vanity. It will act as a 3-way for the pump.
You can check the wiring on the back of the switch in the cabin. Make sure the wires are all still connected. There should be three. The one in the bath is probably more difficult to check but I would try that one too.
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These pumps are capable of being run with no water for some time. That alone should not blow a fuse. Do you have a multimeter?
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The pump does sense water pressure but only to the extent that it comes on whenever you open a faucet. It can not tell whether there is actually water in the tank. It appears that this problem is that there is no power getting to the pump therefore it can’t come on.
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Ok, that tells me what happened. The overflow is in front of the tires. The drain is behind the tires. Apparently, the drain valve was open. The drain valve is not one of the ones located around the water pump. It is located on the the floor below the water pump. Make sure this valve is closed and refill the fresh water tank.
As for why the pump light does not come on, that would be an electrical issue. First check the fuse and we’ll go from there.
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Just parking on a slope seems an unlikely scenario for making the freshwater tank drain. There is no way it can drain through the overflow. Please let us know exactly where the water you saw draining was coming from. Was it in front of the curb side tires or behind them?
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mdernier, welcome to the forum. From your post, it’s apparent you’ve been doing a lot of prospective and intelligent thinking about your future Oliver, particularly the aspect of towing. That is wise and fun to do. You are going to have the time of your life come April and it will be here before you know it.
Your profile does not have any information listed about you or any potential tow vehicle you plan to use. Do you actually need the Andersen system? If your tow vehicle is big enough, it is unnecessary. Personally, I’ve never seen the need for it in ten years of towing two different Oliver’s with four different vehicles.
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So you’ve established that your barn outlet is wired incorrectly. You need to reverse your neutral and ground on that outlet. That should solve the issue.
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None of the early models had this valve installed under the dinette seat. When they, all of a sudden, appeared a year or so ago, I questioned the need for it to the folks at Oliver. Nobody was ever able to give me a reasonable answer as to why it was being installed since there was and is a backflow preventer in that line. It made no sense to have both. Now, as I understand it, they have eliminated it. Now that makes sense.
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Steve,
What temperature gauge system are you using for your 8 gauges all reading to the same display?
Alison
This is the one we are using. The way it is shipped it requires being plugged into 110VAC. To me, this is never optimal in our trailers. The unit is supplied with the “wall wart” and cord. Close examination of the wart reveals that the output voltage is 5VDC. I bought a USB cord with the proper end on it for the monitor so now it gets its power from the trailer via one of the USP ports. As you probably already know, USB output is 5VDC.
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I believe the casters could be considered "just cause" for law enforcement look into your intended usage of said milk crate. Be careful out there.
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Just make sure the law doesn't catch you using it for any nefarious purpose and I think you'll be OK.
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Your system is preforming normally, no need to unhook anything. Change your fan off "auto" and it will work as expected.
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That's darn cold, Pete. Eight degrees for 3 days should freeze the balls off a brass monkey so I'm not surprised the plumbing bummed out.
In our experience, with the coldest we've been in around the mid to low 20's, if the interior temps are comfortable the spaces between the hulls are OK. I have a system of eight temperature sensors installed in and around the OO-II with three between the hulls that all transmit to a single console so I can monitor them at a glance.
FYI everybody, wind chill has no effect on inanimate objects. The trailer will never go below ambient outside temperature no matter the wind speed. However the wind speed will affect how rapidly the temperature of an object will reach ambient.
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My custom front graphic is about 20 inches across.
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We run into the same problem (albeit at the other end of the temperature spectrum) when we spend a month or so camped in the desert near Quartzsite ?. However, the solution is exactly the same - we take water to the trailer from another source and pump it into the fresh tank with the onboard system that is built into your Oliver. Although we dump our gray water on the ground in the desert, presumably in a commercial campground that has full services (even though the water is off) the sewer connection should be open for occasional use.
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Thank all of you. I will get the 25’.
I’m getting you’re all saying it’s better to unhook the city water hose, then drain everything between clean water tank and outside, rather than stay hooked up heating the hose.
My concern is when traveling to a ski resort for 3-7 days where the temps could dip to -10F to +15F at night, then rise to 15-32F during the day.
Any recommendations for keeping the system from freezing under these conditions?
We were camped in Tombstone, AZ several years ago in January. This was our first night to ever camp that early in the season. The first night there the temps fell to below freezing and not expecting the drop or knowing any better we left the hose connected that night and it froze solid. There was no damage but the next day at a Camping World we bought one of these. We used it several times on that same trip with great results and have not had an opportunity to use it since. If we were traveling in the areas you camp with your winter activities, I’d carry it with me and use it every time. Notice the double-male fitting that comes with the hose. Mating it with either of the female ends on the hose will allow you to have the 110VAC plug at either end of the hose, a very nice feature. Most of the time with hookups there is a 110VAC outlet near the hose bib. We have a 110VAC outlet in our basement and can plug it in there if needed.
As long as you have heat going inside your trailer your system will not freeze with the conditions you describe. Make sure to open some access ports to the basement areas to allow them to warm from the ambient cabin air. The furnace and water heater will put heat into that area also.
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Going to Muncie, IN to be with one daughter. Probably will not take the trailer. That way we can go in the GMC Canyon diesel instead of the Silverado Beast. The Canyon gets 35 mpg vs the Silverado's 22 mpg.
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...The water from the front scupper hole has continued to drip. Would condensation be more likely to occur in the front bathroom corner? There are no other drips except this one...
My suspicion is that the water stopped at the rear due to you removing the source (water from the city inlet.) Further it is probably still dripping from the front due to the amount of water that has collected along the length of the trailer. Lower the front end slightly and see if the water won't run out quicker. The quicker you get the bulk of the water out, the better off you'll be but there won't be any lasting damage.
Probably just a small leak. For the repair, some of this or this might be easier than dealing with the teflon tape.
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...This experience convinced me the carefree awning was poorly made & just a piece of junk...
...I went to the dump station. Dumped my black water tank....proceeded to the next camp ground...Again went to dump & realized the sewer hose was full of waste water. ..realized the...black water valve was still open & it wouldn’t close. I was extremely disappointed in this Oliver ELITE travel trailer. Since we have found numerous small annoying things wrong with our trailer that should have never been allowed out of the factory. I attribute it to poor quality control.
I have the Fiamma awning and have no experience with the Carefree brand so I defer to those comments from those that do. However, at the time your trailer was built there was no choice in awnings due to the shooting/massacre at the Orlando, FL distribution center for Fiamma.
The black water valve is a simple 5 minute job for you to adjust. There is no way to pressure test the black tank and valve at the factory. Due to the fact that yours was a cold weather delivery, to test the valve, it would have required putting water into the black tank and then winterizing afterward.
Sorry for your disappointment.
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We have a legacy eliteII ‘18. Water is dripping from the rear and front “vent” on the dinette side only. I don’t know their proper names. We are in Las vegas so it has been dry, but we are heating at night. The dripping is from only those two vents. I had to replace a fitting on the fresh water inlet because it cracked. It could be that it is leaking and needs to be tightened? But that doesn’t seem to explain the dripping from the front vent and before I take apart the “cellar” I thought I’d ask. This is my first time posting so if I’m in the wrong place or doing it incorrectly let me know.
Let me see if I can help you. You state that "...Water is dripping from the rear and front “vent” on the dinette side only..." From that, I gather that it is dripping from two places (front and rear of trailer.) Does it drip constantly and consistently? I suspect that IF there is a leak it is coming from a single source. But based on the size of the puddle in the picture you included, I would expect a lot more water from a constant leak. A single leak could cause water to run out at both ends of the trailer due to the fact that the collection channel runs the entire length. If you are going to chase after a leak, I would start with the last fitting you replaced.
On the other hand, it could merely be condensation between the shells. You state you are in Las Vegas and have been using heat at night. The outside humidity is probably very low but if it is cold enough to require heat then the temperature differential between the two shells will be significant. Every time you guys exhale you are releasing moisture into the air. Two people could easily put out a couple of quarts a day. If you are cooking inside on the propane cook-top, there would been even more.
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It does not appear that the hooks on the current safety "chains" would fit through the holes in this optional equipment.
Best Generator for ‘18 Elite?
in Ollie Boondocking
Posted
If you don’t have the neutral grounding plug yet, don’t panic. Just turn the electrical management system off at the display. This is safe under these circumstances since your generator is your source. We are assuming that generator is putting out electricity in the correct manner.