ScubaRx

I think there was a mis communication between you and Oliver. I think that they thought you were suggesting covering the inside of the vent covers or the hole (openings) that they fit into. I think that you were referring to any gaps in the insulation (as I was) that seal the refrigerator to the hull.

This is not the first time lately that I've heard a new owner complain about air entering the cabin around the refrigerator. Take off the upper outside cover and see if there is a gap in the insulation or the metal tape used to seal everything. Cover any holes with duct tap until you can get something better. I would start a service ticket also.

In both of our Oliver's, a door binding has meant we have twisted the frame due to a poor leveling job. No damage has ever occurred, Just raise or lower one of the rear jacks.

I've had no problems with my Mopeka system for the past three years or so. I do not like using my phone as a monitor for anything. I bought the wireless display and mounted it inside the trailer. I have to change the batteries at least once a year.

On the surface, this looks like a good deal. It's only $30 more than on Amazon and you don't have to buy all the fittings and assemble it yourself. However, this is the warranty you get with the Airstream model: "Airstream is selling the Weber Q1200 Gas Grill AS IS, WITH ALL FAULTS. THERE IS NO EXPRESS WARRANTY COVERING THE GRILL; AND, AIRSTREAM DISCLAIMS ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY AND IMPLIED WARRANTY OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. Airstream also excludes all consequential damages. If you decide to purchase the grill you agree that Ohio law applies regardless of conflicts of law. You also agree that any legal action against must be commenced in state or federal courts sitting in Ohio."

What a great idea. Everyone should take note here.

John Davies, that bad boy is a real hoss. I have the same one except mine is the DCF899HB (hog ring anvil) and it has more available torque (700 ft-lbs) than my pneumatic DWMT70773 (650 ft-lb). I needed to remove some 3/8" lag bolts that had been embedded in oak for many years. the DCF899HB got the ones that were not buried too deep right out, the rest, it just snapped off where they went into the wood. I don't leave home without it.

For very few $ Barker will sell you a new lower tube and you can fully repair that jack. It's an easy fix once you figure out how to get the two tubes apart.

He couldn't smell it?

This one big enough for you? We traded up to a 3500 from our 2500 to get more cargo carrying capacity this past fall. We are waiting on the topper for it. We ordered it in mid June and picked it up the end of September. Since we ordered on the first day that 2022’s could be ordered, we got it before they ran out of parts. We’ve had an electric lift in the Oliver garage for the past five years. We use it to lift and place all the heavy stuff. Like the generator… Or the toolbox… And those propane tanks… We also use it it lift the 12 volt Dometic refrigerator into the truck.

I realize the OP is talking about her AGM FLA batteries. But, for anyone that might not realize the difference, the resting voltage of a fully charged LiFePO4 battery is 13.6V

We own a 2017 Colorado SLT with the 2.8L Duramax. It has a towing capacity of 7600 pounds. I have always said that it would make the perfect towing vehicle for an Elite. Want to trade even?

If you haven’t already bought this truck, at least get the model that’s rated for 7000 pounds of towing capacity. If you already own this truck, my guess is you’ll keep it a season then trade it for something that’s actually suited to comfortably tow with. Look at your cargo carrying capacity in either case.

Very nice truck, you didn't ask (as there was no need to), but I can assure you that you won't have any trouble with either towing or cargo carrying capacity. My SIL and BIL live in Sandy Hook and they said they got a bunch of snow with more coming. You need to head South to the land of Mint Juleps and Tennessee sipping whiskey. Congrats on your upcoming Oliver acquisition from Hull #050.

Dudley, you probably already know this, but for the benefit of newer owners who's 12VDC electrical knowledge may be a little rusty. In Oliver's 4 x 6 volt battery package you have two sets of two 6 volt batteries. Both batteries in these sets are wired together in series to make a 12 volt battery (one wire from the positive terminal on one battery to the negative terminal on the other battery - think as if you're putting batteries in a flashlight, each battery's voltage is added to make the total). The voltage doubles for the set but the available ah remains the same. Then, the two sets are wired together in parallel by connecting the positive and negative terminals. This keeps the voltage the same for the four batteries but doubles the Ah capacity of the pack. This wiring scheme gives you a 12 volt system with a aH capacity of double the stated aH of any one battery. This is how many aH you can use before reaching the dreaded 50% point of no return. Then, to properly connect the battery pack to your trailer the positive and negative wires should come off the opposite corners of the set of batteries. This will enable each battery to be discharged and charged equally.