ScubaRx
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Posts posted by ScubaRx
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At the Hiawassee Rally in Georgia, there was a couple parked right beside us pulling their Elite II with a Colorado/Canyon (don't remember which) with the Duramax 2.8L. It can be done, as the tow capacity is 7700 pounds.
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There are lots of systems out there that will do what you describe. BUT, you will need a wi-fi hotspot (which requires a separate cellular phone line and will incur a monthly fee) inside your trailer and a good cell phone signal wherever you're parked. Then you can use any of these systems.
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Her Yamaha 2000i is a 2000 watt PEAK generator, it only outputs 1600 running watts. It may start her AC but lacks sufficient power to keep it running. (1600 watts = 13.333 amps). Don't know which AC unit we're talking about here but it could be drawing as much as 18 amps, therefore the shutdown.
As Ken noted above, the easy start only reduces the start up load, the running load remains the same. Her only answer is more output wattage IE another or a larger generator.
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I've been searching about a year for a system that I could monitor multiple points in the trailer all reporting to a single display. I was in the process of designing my own when I stumbled onto this system a few weeks ago. I don't have an interest in remote monitoring so this outfit would serve all my needs. You can buy it configured for 3, 5 or 8 remote transmitters.
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Pull the gasket completely out all around, top to bottom. Push the slider until it’s nearly closed and it will pop out of the frame at the top.
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Any chance you’ll be at the Oregon Coast Gathering at Bullards Beach this month, or Winnipeg next month for the Boler anniversary?
Sorry for the slight hijack. We are going to the Boler Rally to help represent Oliver. Are you planning to attend too?
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I always take the sliding window completely out. Then you can really do a great job with the gaskets and the trough in the bottom of the window frame.
Before replacing everything, I spray the gasket with silicone.
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...I had started the winterizing process on my 2016 Elite II and when I removed the heating element I found that it was corroded very badly...
Grayson, that’s your sacrificial anode rather than the heating element. It is doing its job and is still in good shape. Nothing to be concerned about at this point.
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...Without seeing at least one overturned Oliver for comparison, overturned under similar conditions like at similar speeds, the picture alone is not persuasive to me...
The only ways I can interpret this statement is that you either did not read my post about the overturned Oliver or you read it and did not believe me. IF you didn’t believe what I said and need your own visual proof before making a purchase decision, then I submit you probably will never own an Oliver because you are unlikely to ever be in a position to witness such.
I believe you will be hard to please but I still wish you luck
I’m done...
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Bill, I have never rebuilt one of these valves but that kit does look like what you would need to do so.
On a further note, I believe you stated that you were able to manually push the blade valve down into the seated position. Is that correct? If so, that makes me wonder how that is possible if the gasket is rolled.
At any rate, taking the valve apart and rebuilding it is not a bad idea. Hopefully, this will get your problem fixed.
Oh yes, make sure you have the black tank completely emptied and clean before taking that valve apart
????
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In the original design stage of the Oliver Elite II, the plan was to employ molded-in ductwork. Unfortunately, the RVIA nixed that idea. Personally, I thought it was a great idea.
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With all due respect and gentle kindness.
Apparently, you are saying that an Oliver would not flip over?
Or are you saying that if an Oliver flipped over there would be no damages or just a few scratches or minimal damage?
I don’t know if John meant to imply that an “Oliver would not flip over” but I do know I didn’t gather that. Of course, simple physics would dictate that anything will flip over if enough lateral force is applied.
Reading...from the Oliver website, I see no representation that an Oliver is better or any less destructible than any other trailer when it comes to mishaps...
Obviously, any manufacturer that claimed in writing what you said would be opening up a can of litigious worms. But to add some information as to what would happen to an Oliver if it were involved in an accident I can offer a few facts.
There have been “several” incidents involving Oliver’s. One accident involved the coach flipping over and sliding down the pavement for some distance. When the wrecking company personnel finished putting the Oliver back on its tires they commented that they had NEVER seen a trailer survive an accident that took it off its wheels. In fact, the owner continued on his way albeit with some serious road rash. So yes, there is evidence “that an Oliver is better or any less destructible than any other trailer when it comes to mishaps...”
We understand that you are looking to buy and are (wisely) exploring choices. An Oliver Travel Trailer is different from other trailers in so many ways it’s hard to enumerate them all. We are all here to answer any questions or address any concerns.
Good luck in your quest.
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Most likely the reason your gate valve is not closing completely is because the cable has slipped slightly where it attaches to the vertical slide on the valve.
To fix it: loosen the set screw where the cable attaches to the gate valve slide, manually push the gate down to firmly seat it, push the cable handle completely in, tighten the set screw.
This will re-adjust the blade where it is completely down when the cable is pushed completely in.
Whenever you have to do this process, it is a good idea to lubricate the cable and the inside of the housing also.
To lubricant the cable: while the set screw is loose, pull the outside handle to remove the entire cable from the housing. Wipe the cable with a clean rag along its entire length. As you re-insert the cable, spray with a lubricant such as silicone or WD-40. Work the cable back and forth a few times to distribute the lubricant. Tighten the set screw.
This process will be a four-handed project. You will have to be inside to guide the cable back into the gate valve while someone outside is easing the handle into place.
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...BTW my water heater has been working fine since I swapped out the burned board for the free used one the tech gave me.
John Davies
Spokane WA
John, will Suburban not warranty the old board? You’ve still got it to send back. Then you’d have an extra. The same board will work in the water heater or the furnace.
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The anodes are attached after the frame and sub-frame are mated. Nothing critical, just drill a hole and pop riveted on.
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We made friends with a couple from Winnipeg when we led the Southern Utah Tour last year. They were traveling in a 40-something year old Boler. Coy has asked us to attend the Rally with him. I’ve spoken with our friends and they will be attending.
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Oliver makes the subframes. They then send them out to be hot-dip galvanized.
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I should have named this thread, dog in the truck.
Voilà
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The installation of these valves is high on my list of to-do’s. They are manually operable in case of failure (mechanical or electrical).
You do not have to remove or modify any of the plumbing to install.
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My door will close with the handles pulled. You can always install the electric valves and eliminate having to pull the handles at all.
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The couple parked next to us at the Hiawassee rally was pulling their Elite II with a diesel Canyon or Colorado (sorry I can’t recall which). They claimed it did a fine job.
Based on this information, pulling an Elite should prove to be a spectacular combination. And very cool, in my opinion.
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Was this not the exact problem the Cash’s were having at the rally? He posted about it here, but I don’t recall ever reading a solution.
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As Bill stated, that is a Golight Wireless Remote Control LED Spotlight.
It is mounted on a custom mast. We use it to help us get into spaces after dark. It comes in real handy if there’s a need to spotlight wildlife like Sasquatch and such. Also, if we are boodocking someplace, I will pre-aim it to light up an area (such as the entrance to where we’re parked) in case something goes bump in the night.
It’s just fun to use, and it’s bright, it will light up the dark side of the moon ?. Not really...
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Parked beside this guy overnighting in a truckstop in Greentown, PA.
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LPG Tank Monitor
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
The original product was only calibrated to read accurately for 20lb tanks. It would WORK on a 30lb or 40lb tank but would read 100% until about 1/3 or 1/2 (depending on which size tank) of the propane was gone. Does the sensor now have the ability to be calibrated for the 30 and 40 pound tanks and if so, how does one accomplish that?