ScubaRx
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Posts posted by ScubaRx
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Mike, you’re fine. The neutral to ground bonding is happening in the house.
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Based on less than 500 units sold in the past ten years, if Oliver were using marine appliances costing more money than the industry standards, how many thousands more would the units have cost and how many fewer people would have been willing to plunk down even more money than they did in the first place? No one will ever know. I’ve owned two Oliver Travel Trailers over that period of time. I understand that there are those that have had, and maybe we’ve been fortunate, but we’ve never had an appliance issue with either one.
At about $265K for the Earth Cruser (you could spend from $580K to $720K and get one of the really nice ones) I’m willing to bet not a single Oliver owner was willing to buy one - better appliances not withstanding. I’m happy with what we have, but if I had a another million or so in savings I’d get an Earth Cruser as a tow vehicle.
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The wire chase between the top and the bottom is in the rear on the street side. I pulled a tape thru there right after Hull # 050 came off the line. I leave a length of weed-eater cord permanently there to facilitate any future wire pulls.
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I would consider that to be bad Ju-Ju. Where are you? If you are at a campground, I would report this to the owner/host. And unplug the trailer. This is exactly what that unit is supposed to do.
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Mike, at one time, I looked into using some solenoid activated cam locks that would hold the lids down. Release would be accomplished through a hidden switch. I didn't pursue it so now I just store stainless steel hardware, extra batteries, fuses, suction cups, and lots of little misc stuff in there divided among seven little plastic totes. Nothing valuable. The valuable stuff is stored behind the M18A1 Claymore mine.
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You need to check that backflow valve and make absolutely sure it is open. You will have to look under the front dinette seat and physically look at the valve there. Make sure that the control cable has not slipped. Does the shower pan back up if water is running into the shower drain?
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During the build of our Oliver back in 2013, I proposed that a “hidey-hole” be created in a certain area. It later became standard in most of the builds. Owners, you’ll know if it’s in yours, not everybody has it. I was not satisfied that there was enough security with the result that the factory provided and modified it to be a real safe. Even though, by John's definition based on price, it would have to be considered "junk” it has four times the capacity of the front opening gun safes and I would challenge you to find it and remove anything from it in less than four hours. Of course, that assumes two things:
(1) You’ve made it past Reacher
(2) I’ve not come back and caught you at it and then had to call a good friend.
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Aww shucks, twern’t nothin’.
That’s why we’re here and not trolling Facebook.
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Apparently you have the translucent doors? The other three options (black, white and mirrored) don’t have that characteristic. The only solution would be to change that door’s ability to transmit light. You could paint the backside!!!
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I doubt there’s a problem. A piece of fiberglass will squeak when flexed or moved while in contact with another piece. The shower pan is a separate piece fiberglass and is in contact with the interior hull. In addition, if there is any grit under the pan it may create a noise when stepped on.
The shower pan on our first Oliver cracked and I replaced it. The pan in the newer models are about 5 times thicker.
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... Any other ways to cut power to it without killing power to essential other things?
At some point in time Oliver started putting a separate 12vdc fuse/breaker panel in the upper rear cabinet. Check that to see if there's a fan circuit. If so, it will kill power to both the Maxxfan and the bathroom fan.
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Check your temperature setting on the fan.
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I’ve also bought the WS-3000 system with eight remote sensors. We’ve set it up around the house and it works very well. I hadn’t realized that the console wasn’t designed for wall mounting — it has a base for standing on a flat surface. More importantly, the console is powered by a 110V adapter — not by battery. The adapter outputs 5VDC and someone on this forum (I think) suggested that it could be replaced by an USB to Barrel Jack cable, thereby allowing the use of the Oliver’s USB outlet instead.
I’d like to do this but the cable I ordered has a Barrel Jack that’s much too large and I can’t seem to find a source for a suitable cable.
Twas I that posted about the USB/Barrel Jack cable.
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Agreed, I think window visors would be a great way to cut down on some of the water ingress problems. There has to be a source for these. I can find images online but no way to buy any.
Watch video here - https://www.camperidea.com/runaway-camper-window-rain-guards/
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Gwenne,
You are not alone with the need to use a CPAP machine. Both myself and my wife now use machines at night. When we owned our previous 2008 Oliver Elite, I had not yet been diagnosed with sleep apnea and was not using a CPAP, but Tali just placed her machine on the floor and plugged it into a 12vdc outlet installed under the side dinette. This was always a hassle as it needed to be packed away each morning to get it out of the way.
During the build of our twin bed Oliver LEII back in late 2013, I knew that we needed a place for the machines to live.
Here’s what I did.
I had the guys on the line install 12v outlets inside each of the overhead rear cabinets.
I drilled a 7/8” hole up through the bottom of the cabinets over each of our beds.
I ran a short (about 4.5 inch) piece of 1/2” PVC pipe through each hole and glued it in place.
Now, the machines reside in the upper cabinets. Their power comes directly from the batteries so no need to carry the 110vac converter. We use a short hose to go from the Machine to the top of the PVC pipe inside the cabinet. The hose attached to your mask is plugged into the lower end of the PVC pipe on the outside of the cabinet.
We have used this system for four years now and have found it to be a very elegant solution to the problem. In the mornings we simply unplug the hose from the PVC pipe and store our mask and hose inside the cabinet during the day. Out of sight and ready to go the next night.
As a side note, when I attempted to purchase the 12vdc cords for our particular machines, I found that they were $50 apiece. Not being willing to spend that much money on a simple cord, I decided to make my own. I bought two 12vdc plugs and then realized that the plug that goes into our machine is proprietary and unavailable. After brainstorming on this for a few days, I went down to our local dealer that furnishes our breathing supplies and asked if they had any inoperable power supply’s. She brought out a box full and I went home with a couple. I cut off a short length of cord with the plug attached , soldered the 12vdc plug onto the other end and voilà, free power cords.
Sorry about the pictures being sideways, that always happens when I post from my phone.
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Apparently, Mike and I were working at the same time… I removed the entire post...
Sherry
Did you remove his account?
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Generator isn’t sending power to Ollie. Progressive Dynamic has error and other codes flashing.
Anyone know what I should do?
If you don’t have the neutral grounding plug yet, don’t panic. Just turn the electrical management system off at the display. This is safe under these circumstances since your generator is your source. We are assuming that generator is putting out electricity in the correct manner.
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We bought a Yamaha EF3000iSEB soon after we bought our 2008 Elite. It has served us well for these past 10+ years and now rides on the front of our 2014 Elite II.
It will be claimed that it is too much generator and a smaller/less expensive one will do.
If I were to do it all again, I’d do it the same. I’m all about overkill. That way nothing is ever marginal.
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Every night, Reacher (the 100+ lb Doberman), gets the side dinette made down into his bed. The two little dogs sleep on our beds.
When we had our Elite (one of the rare twin bed models) the big dog slept on the floor.
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Yea.....
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Do you have a switch panel in your rearmost upper cabinet?
When was the last time your water pump was operational?
There is an additional pump switch in the bathroom. I believe it is under the upper ledge of the caddy type insert in the sink vanity. It will act as a 3-way for the pump.
You can check the wiring on the back of the switch in the cabin. Make sure the wires are all still connected. There should be three. The one in the bath is probably more difficult to check but I would try that one too.
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These pumps are capable of being run with no water for some time. That alone should not blow a fuse. Do you have a multimeter?
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The pump does sense water pressure but only to the extent that it comes on whenever you open a faucet. It can not tell whether there is actually water in the tank. It appears that this problem is that there is no power getting to the pump therefore it can’t come on.
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Ok, that tells me what happened. The overflow is in front of the tires. The drain is behind the tires. Apparently, the drain valve was open. The drain valve is not one of the ones located around the water pump. It is located on the the floor below the water pump. Make sure this valve is closed and refill the fresh water tank.
As for why the pump light does not come on, that would be an electrical issue. First check the fuse and we’ll go from there.
“RV Industry Death Spiral” articles
in General Discussion
Posted
http://www.thedrive.com/new-cars/8175/the-mighty-265000-earthcruiser-4x4-is-a-preppers-fantasy-machine
https://www.caravancampingsales.com.au/editorial/details/unimog-earthcruiser-tops-780000-111445/
Sorry, my info came from these two sites. I’ve never researched them as there is virtually no place in America that needs their capability to get to and I’m not planning a trip to Australia