ScubaRx
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Posts posted by ScubaRx
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I called Oliver and the rear window is 36″ and the 3 larger sides are 48″ Reed
That is correct...
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Has anyone considered installing disc brakes on their Oliver?
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We were at the factory for a few days this week to meet with a couple that was buying a new Oliver. During our discussions the option of the key-less lock came up. He stated he has owned several RV's in the past and found that the composite paddle handles on these locks tended to break in cold weather (they live in Colorado.) I don't think he ordered one. I have considered buying the model that they're installing (pretty sure it's the one that Rhett referenced) but as yet have not done so.
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Bill, very nicely done...Well documented and explained.
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Open Carry is now legal in Texas (as of Jan 1, 2016) but you must have a License to Carry issued by Texas or a permit/license Texas honors. If open carrying the firearm must be either be in a shoulder holster or a belt holster. These are the only two accepted ways to open carry under Texas law. I don't personally have any inclination to open carry so this info is for those that do.
The most accurate site for handgun information is the one Topgun2 mentioned: handgunlaw.us. The two guys that own it are constantly updating it and it always contains very up to date info.
Regarding the transportation of firearms across state lines and through heavily regulated states (think Illinois, California, New York) you should be aware of the Firearms Owners’ Protection Act, or FOPA. The NRA has an explanation that is easily understandable by the lay public.
We spent a couple of months this fall up in the Northeast, a week in Massachusetts, a week in Connecticut, a week in Maine and time passing through the other states in that region. A close examination of a map will show you that it is virtually impossible to get there without passing through New York state.
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It will show 13.5V almost immediately after plugging in so I didn’t think that was an indication of a fully charged battery….but just and indications of power available (from the landline cord)...Carole
That 13.5V is DC volts and there is NO DC power available from "the landline cord." That cord supplies 120 VAC to the charger/converter which in turn charges the battery and supplies 12 VDC to all the accessories in the trailer. It also supplies 120 VAC to your outlets and the AC side of the inverter.
...I plugged in a space heater to run during the cold spell. The voltage moniter went CRAZY!! Quickly up to over 100 amps then the heater shut off/and amps down then up and down again very quickly several times. Then the heater quit working – I figured I had blown a fuse in the trailer but turned out I just needed to reset the plug in outside. Obviously I didn’t use the heater so I’m hoping my trailer lines haven’t frozen and blown ( I did empty the water lines). Has anyone had this problem? I used it a little heater like this in a class c I had and it worked like a charm. CaroleThis sounds as if the heater was plugged in while the trailer was disconnected from outside power and was getting its power from the batteries through your inverter. That would quickly run the batteries down, make your inverter go into a low voltage state and shut down, which kills the power to the heater as well. In order to use a high current draw accessory like a heater, you MUST have the trailer plugged into an external power supply and make sure the outlet that the heater is plugged in to is not drawing off the batteries. (This would assume that you have some outlets that are ONLY connected to the inverter--not likely.)
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While this is a well thought out and very useful product for many SOB owners, I fail to see a need for these as they relate to Oliver Owners. The rear jacks are for lifting, leveling and stabilizing our trailers and they fulfill all three functions admirably without the need to carry additional equipment. Your needs may differ from mine.
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I stated this in another thread but I will reiterate it here. I vote that the OTT Rally be held next Fall. I would loved to have been able to come to the first rally but it came up on short notice and we had made prior plans that could not be changed. Once again, it's too late to start planing for something that is timed just a few months away. For us, we will be gone most of the first 6 months of next year on trips that were planned many months ago. I expect there are others that have already started planning next year's sojourns.
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It look like I’m shaking the cables hard but I’m not. This on and off of the picture also occurs when I’m just driving. Connection is lost and the moniter keeps re-connecting itself to camera. You can see the useless picture I get on the moniter at the end of the video. *Also there is a lot of lost connection – the wires seem to be loose. The standard hand connections are fine – it seems to be those jumble of wires. If the get touched or moved the picture goes on and off. Any suggestions for that?
Since the connection between the camera and the monitor is wireless there is no way to lose connection by jiggling the wiring, so it's power to your monitor that's being lost not connection to the camera. The female 12 volt "power ports" in most cars/truck are a piece of junk. The male plugs just won't stay seated in them (watch the video and you will see the power button going off and on as it loses power.) You'll have to find a way to keep the connection hot.
You can alleviate some of the night time glare by tilting the camera up so you do not "see" so much of the trailer. The IR LED's that come on after dark are seeing the reflection of the stark white gel-coat and closing down the lens, so glare is normal for night time (I just turn it off after dark.) The vacuum created behind a moving vehicle causes rain water to collect on the plate covering the lens of the camera and makes it blurry. If you figure out a solution to that please let me know.
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...When I plug in it will say ~13.5/~+4.0 then within minutes changes to ~13.5/~0.2. It has done this consistently...
If you are getting a reading of 13.5 V you are fully charged. I understand your IPN-Pro is telling you you only have a 75% charge. That calculation is incorrect. If you could pull your trailer out into full sun for a few hours it would reset your IPN-Pro and it would read properly. My trailer has been under cover for the last 30 days or so and it is doing the same thing. I cannot tell you why it is like this, it seems to be some idiosyncrasy between the Progressive Dynamics charger and the Blue Sky system. I will let you know when I get this sorted out.
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Did you have to relocate the cable, and if so, how did you hide the old hole? A plug like you might use to hide an unused hole in a kitchen sink?
Our TV was mounted in the center during our build, so no old hole. I did have to enlarge and move the original wiring hole for a bunch of new cables going thru. Hole saws are your best friend for this type of work. I have a set of about forty DeWalt bi-metal saws ranging from 9/16" up to over 4". They have proven invaluable in making nice clean holes in fiberglass. There are several tricks using a hole saw that will allow you to offset a hole to another place or simply make the hole bigger in the same place.
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Tali and I hope everyone is having a Blessed and safe Thanksgiving.
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...What’s a good source for a sheet of 1/4″ aluminum?
Mike, I buy all my steel and aluminum for my various projects here locally at a dealer called Tigrett Steel. I'm sure there are similar places all around you. What you should ask for is a piece from their "drops." These are pieces that have been cut from larger jobs and end up in their scrap pile. They will usually shear it to size for you for nothing. Anything from 1/8" to 1/4" thick is sufficient. The mounting holes for the bracket itself are in an approximately 3.5" x 4" rectangle so the plate will need to be somewhere around 6" square, again this is not critical, it just needs to be larger than the mounting hole pattern. If anyone can't find this material and make it, I will be happy to fab it up and ship it to you.
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...ask them to reinforce the other side...
Reinforcement is as simple as bolting the mount through a 1/4" thick plate of aluminum on the inside of the upper cabinet. In 20000 miles this has proven to be a completely sturdy mount. If the factory is unwilling to do this, just have them provide the plate and drill the holes (or you could do this yourself if you choose.) The inside mat and insulation completely covers the plate and all the wiring making for a very neat installation.
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This is the mount that we specified for the build of our Outlaw Oliver back in 2013. Oliver won't tell you about it because of the regulations about the rear egress window. We have had zero problems with it for over 20000 miles. It is available on Amazon for a much better price. It is mounted directly in front of the rear window and we travel with it in the stowed (up) position. It does not block the rear window so it could still be used in an emergency. Realistically, I would rather take my chances getting past whatever "emergency" might be happening to get out the door rather than risk life and limb trying to get everybody and the dogs out through that window. We are using the standard Jensen 12vdc TV that Oliver puts in all their trailers.
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Mike, know you had a bumpy start and glad everything got worked out. No more issues with the solar, I assume? Looks like you guys had a great maiden voyage.
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Buzzy, You should visit Utah! Don
We will be participating in the Southern Utah Tour this coming May. Not our first visit to this area, but one of our favorite parts of the country.
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I vote for sometime in September, don't really care where.
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While at the factory recently, management told me that the Dexter EZ Flex system will probably become standard equipment in the future.
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I noticed in your picture that the solar panels appeared to be partially covered. I offer this information in case you were not aware of how your solar panels output electricity. You may well have known all this and taken it into consideration.
Partial shading of even one cell on a 36-cell solar panel, will reduce its power output. Because all cells are connected in a series string, the weakest cell will bring the others down to its reduced power level. Therefore, whether 1/2 of one cell is shaded, or 1/2 a row of cells is shaded, the power decrease will be the same and proportional to the percentage of area shaded, in this case 50%. When a full cell is shaded, it can actually consume energy produced by the remainder of the cells, and trigger the solar panel to protect itself. The solar panel will route the power around that series string.
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Try placing the level on the outside under the edge that forms the belly band.
You can also measure the distance from the bottom of the frame to the ground in the front and back.
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I have a question? Why the need for big blocks? Is it that the Ollie revelers don’t extend far enough? Shouldn’t a reinforced pad be enough?
Good morning Canoe12 and welcome to the Oliver Forums. The Oliver electric jacks do extend far enough to not use any blocks at all. It's just with the use of a tall block we have discovered several benefits:
1 - Time saved in running the jacks as you don't have to run them all the way down (and back up)
2 - Energy saved in not running the jacks so much (they are hogs)
3 - Less chance of accidentally driving off with them fully extended and bending the jack (you will simply drive off the block)
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Steve, I’m interested in your statement about removing this vanity insert attachment at least half a dozen times. Why did you need to remove this vanity insert attachment? Dennis
Dennis, in every case, I took it out to run or inspect wiring. The easiest way to route wires from outside the front of the trailer to the inside is thru this area. From there you can go under the black tank or into the closet. In each of our trailers, I ran a remote switch for the front jack allowing me inside control. In our first Oliver all the switches for the outside lights were outside on the driver's side. I turned these outside switches into 3 way switches and put the second set inside by the entrance door.
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...As a consumer, I think it is very wrong that you would have to basically disassemble the entire vanity, then reassemble it again with expensive and difficult to find adhesive, to access a piece of plumbing. This design makes it virtually impossible for the average owner to fix a leak in the boonies. Every, EVERY SINGLE plumbing joint and connection should have relatively simple access. Inspection hatches are the answer, not the method described above....John Davies Spokane WA
During a recent trip to the factory to have all our bathroom drains rebuilt they re-did my vanity insert attachment to current standards. This is the way it looks now. And BTW, it is not hard to remove and replace. In the two Oliver's we've owned, I've probably removed it at least a half dozen times. I agree with John, it's not the most accessible place in the trailer but it's not impossible to get there.
Fiamma Privacy Room
in Ollie Modifications
Posted
Reed & Karen: I hope you don't mind that I created a new thread for this and moved your post.
This
I've included some pics of our initial set up and a couple taken during a recent trip to Maine.