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astrocaster

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  1. I have repacked the bearings on our Oliver several times now, and this time I decided to replace the bearings and races as a preventive maintenance measure. I've watched videos on YouTube showing how to drive the races out of the hub using a drift punch, which seems to be the standard way to remove the races. So, today, when I got the hubs off and bearings removed, I set about driving the races out. I was able to remove the inner races without too much difficulty; however, the outer races on both hubs fit flush to the inner opening of the hub. As a result, none of the race is exposed from
  2. Thanks, Larry. I'm enjoying getting caught up on the FB page. Steve
  3. Pete, Thanks for the information regarding the FaceBook pages. On the group page, I clicked the button to join the group and nothing happened. Perhaps I need to be approved as a member and will be contacted by a moderator. A Spring 2014 gathering of Oliver trailers near the "factory nest" sounds interesting. I look forward to hearing more. Do you know if dates (even tentative) have been set? It would help us a great deal to know the dates as soon as possible. We would have to come (and return) a loooong way. To answer your question regarding the batteries: Since the Troja
  4. Hi, Pete, Yes, we do have a solar panel; it is not attached to the trailer, and we carry it in our tow vehicle and deploy it when the conditions are right. I believe that the panel and controller are the same make and model as on your trailer. We often camp deep in the forest where the trailer is in total or mostly shade, so being able to have the solar panel set up in a patch of sunlight ten to forty feet away, sometimes comes in handy. At other times, we use the generator. On the other hand, when we camp in non-wooded areas on sunny days, the solar panel supplies all of the power we
  5. Here's an update: I obtained two T-105+ batteries and installed them back in June. The installation is very tight and I had to modify the hold-down system a little to make it work. Since then we have taken the trailer out for a couple of trips, and these batteries take a charge, hold the charge, and maintain output much, much better than the 12-volt "marine" batteries that we had used before. I am glad that I made the change. Steve
  6. Pete, Glad to hear that the Wonder Egg is riding smoothly again. Would you please post the specifics regarding the upgraded shocks you had installed--brand, model #, etc. Thanks, Steve
  7. DC, Thanks for the suggestion that I consider building my own battery tray if necessary. Thanks, as well, for the link to your posts showing the tray that you built. It will provide a good example, if I find that I need to build one myself. Steve
  8. I would like to install two Trojan T-105 six-volt golf cart batteries in our Oliver (replacing our existing batteries), but I am concerned that there doesn't seem to be enough height to accommodate them in the battery compartment--particularly at the rear of the compartment. I would appreciate it if any Oliver owners who have installed this particular battery in their Olivers would respond to let me know whether any modifications of the compartment were necessary (such as cutting off the top of the compartment) in order to fit the T-105's height. It also seems that two of the T-105 batte
  9. Thanks, Sherry, for mentioning that there is an inline fuse. I see it now, and I have found mention of it in the owner's manual we got from Oliver. Tom, its interesting that you have been told by someone who should know that the front jacks on all camper are wired directly to the battery. Any idea why this is the case? Steve
  10. Thanks, Sherry, Steve, and Pete, for suggesting that the switch was the problem. I have replaced the switch and the jack now works fine. I did discover one thing, though, that I need to share with you all: it is that--at least on our Oliver--the tongue jack is wired directly to the batteries, bypassing the 12-volt cutoff switch, and, perhaps, all fuses. I was surprised to discover this when I was in the process of installing the new switch. I had hit the button to disconnect the batteries, so there was no 12-volt power in the cabin, and I had unplugged the shore power, so I assumed th
  11. Steve and Sherry, Thanks for the follow-up! I'll look locally for a heavy-duty DPDT momentary contact switch. Steve
  12. Those do look like some great trips. There are so many beautiful areas in this country! Steve
  13. Tom, Sherry, and Steve, Thank you all for responding. Glad you haven't had any trouble with your tongue jack, Tom. And Sherry and Steve, thanks for encouraging me to look more closely at the switch. I took the cover off this afternoon and inspected the switch and couldn't see any obvious problem. After I reassembled everything, I found that if I press in hard on the switch when I toggle it to the up position, it usually will supply power to the motor, but it won't supply power, if I just toggle it in the usual fashion one toggles a switch. Therefore, it seems that the switch is the p
  14. Hi, Everyone, The tongue jack on our Oliver no longer responds to the switch to raise the tongue of our trailer, and it sometimes is hesitant to lower the tongue. We are wondering if anyone else on the forum has had this experience, and whether anyone has had to replace the tongue jack. I am getting tired of having to use the hand crank to raise the tongue! Thanks, Steve
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