astrocaster

I have repacked the bearings on our Oliver several times now, and this time I decided to replace the bearings and races as a preventive maintenance measure. I've watched videos on YouTube showing how to drive the races out of the hub using a drift punch, which seems to be the standard way to remove the races. So, today, when I got the hubs off and bearings removed, I set about driving the races out. I was able to remove the inner races without too much difficulty; however, the outer races on both hubs fit flush to the inner opening of the hub. As a result, none of the race is exposed from the back, and therefore, there is no surface on the race to be used to punch it out. It actually seems like the hub was designed to prevent the removal of the race. Have any of you who have the 5200-pound axle, as we do, removed the outer race yourselves by driving it out with a punch? Do you change out the races when you change out the bearings? Any thoughts or advice on this? Thank you, Steve

Thanks, Larry. I'm enjoying getting caught up on the FB page. Steve

Pete, Thanks for the information regarding the FaceBook pages. On the group page, I clicked the button to join the group and nothing happened. Perhaps I need to be approved as a member and will be contacted by a moderator. A Spring 2014 gathering of Oliver trailers near the "factory nest" sounds interesting. I look forward to hearing more. Do you know if dates (even tentative) have been set? It would help us a great deal to know the dates as soon as possible. We would have to come (and return) a loooong way. To answer your question regarding the batteries: Since the Trojan T-105 golf-cart batteries are flooded lead-acid batteries, just like the 12-volt marine batteries that they replaced, no changes needed to be made in the settings on the solar controller and no additional equipment was required. The only difference is, as you point out, the 6-volt batteries are wired in series, and the 12-volt batteries in parallel. Steve

Hi, Pete, Yes, we do have a solar panel; it is not attached to the trailer, and we carry it in our tow vehicle and deploy it when the conditions are right. I believe that the panel and controller are the same make and model as on your trailer. We often camp deep in the forest where the trailer is in total or mostly shade, so being able to have the solar panel set up in a patch of sunlight ten to forty feet away, sometimes comes in handy. At other times, we use the generator. On the other hand, when we camp in non-wooded areas on sunny days, the solar panel supplies all of the power we need. Regarding the batteries, the advantage is not that they are 6-volt; in fact, that's probably a disadvantage, and you are correct in wondering whether if a battery suddenly goes bad, we would lose 12-volt power. We would, indeed. I am counting on that not happening. What I like about these batteries is that there is no question that they are true deep-cycle batteries, and that makes a world of difference, at least in our Oliver. We have had two pairs of 12-volt marine batteries--big ones, group 31 (from the Oliver factory) and then a pair of group 27--with lots of amp-hour storage capacity. Neither of these pairs of batteries held and delivered the current that we would expect, given our frugal use of electricity. Marine batteries are just not true deep-cycle batteries--they are a compromise of starting battery and deep-cycle functions, and that is reflected in their designs. True deep-cycle batteries have design features, including considerably thicker plates, that suit their purpose of providing a lot of current over a sustained period of time. These design features make deep-cycle batteries much less suitable for providing the surge of current needed to start an engine, and so, you will only very rarely see a "cranking amp" specification on a true deep-cycle battery. One needn't get 6-volt golf cart batteries to get true deep-cycle batteries. There are a few 12-volt true deep-cycle batteries to chose from. (Again, though, from all that I have learned about this, I would not expect any true deep-cycle battery to have a cranking amperage listed or associated with it.) For us, it was a matter of battery dimensions and their availability in our area that drove our choice to get these batteries. In addition, the Trojan T-105 batteries have a very good reputation for reliable use in golf carts in our area. Regarding a "family gathering" of Oliver trailers in Tennessee next year, we have no plans to travel east. If something is being planned, though, please let us know. Safe travels to you and Oscar, Steve

Here's an update: I obtained two T-105+ batteries and installed them back in June. The installation is very tight and I had to modify the hold-down system a little to make it work. Since then we have taken the trailer out for a couple of trips, and these batteries take a charge, hold the charge, and maintain output much, much better than the 12-volt "marine" batteries that we had used before. I am glad that I made the change. Steve

Pete, Glad to hear that the Wonder Egg is riding smoothly again. Would you please post the specifics regarding the upgraded shocks you had installed--brand, model #, etc. Thanks, Steve

DC, Thanks for the suggestion that I consider building my own battery tray if necessary. Thanks, as well, for the link to your posts showing the tray that you built. It will provide a good example, if I find that I need to build one myself. Steve

I would like to install two Trojan T-105 six-volt golf cart batteries in our Oliver (replacing our existing batteries), but I am concerned that there doesn't seem to be enough height to accommodate them in the battery compartment--particularly at the rear of the compartment. I would appreciate it if any Oliver owners who have installed this particular battery in their Olivers would respond to let me know whether any modifications of the compartment were necessary (such as cutting off the top of the compartment) in order to fit the T-105's height. It also seems that two of the T-105 batteries might be a little too wide for the tray, but perhaps not. Thank you very much, Steve

Thanks, Sherry, for mentioning that there is an inline fuse. I see it now, and I have found mention of it in the owner's manual we got from Oliver. Tom, its interesting that you have been told by someone who should know that the front jacks on all camper are wired directly to the battery. Any idea why this is the case? Steve

Thanks, Sherry, Steve, and Pete, for suggesting that the switch was the problem. I have replaced the switch and the jack now works fine. I did discover one thing, though, that I need to share with you all: it is that--at least on our Oliver--the tongue jack is wired directly to the batteries, bypassing the 12-volt cutoff switch, and, perhaps, all fuses. I was surprised to discover this when I was in the process of installing the new switch. I had hit the button to disconnect the batteries, so there was no 12-volt power in the cabin, and I had unplugged the shore power, so I assumed that there would be no power to the switch. However, I happened to bump the toggle as I made the last connection, and the jack came to life! I could have been severely shocked, had I not been careful in the way that I handled the several wires and connections. So, I have learned that the battery disconnect switch does not disconnect everything, and the only way to make sure is to actually disconnect the battery yourself! Steve

Steve and Sherry, Thanks for the follow-up! I'll look locally for a heavy-duty DPDT momentary contact switch. Steve

Those do look like some great trips. There are so many beautiful areas in this country! Steve

Tom, Sherry, and Steve, Thank you all for responding. Glad you haven't had any trouble with your tongue jack, Tom. And Sherry and Steve, thanks for encouraging me to look more closely at the switch. I took the cover off this afternoon and inspected the switch and couldn't see any obvious problem. After I reassembled everything, I found that if I press in hard on the switch when I toggle it to the up position, it usually will supply power to the motor, but it won't supply power, if I just toggle it in the usual fashion one toggles a switch. Therefore, it seems that the switch is the problem and I will need to replace it. Steve, I see from your post that you got a replacement with from the company (I assume that you mean the manufacturer of the jack--H&H Engineering/Barker Mfg. Co--rather than Oliver). Sherry, it might help me to know if Paul also got the replacement switch from the manufacturer, and if not, perhaps he could recall the specifications for the switch. What seems unusual to me, looking at the switch on our jack, is that pin #6 has two spade connectors on it. None of the similar switches I can find online have two connectors like that. Thank you for any additional information you can provide regarding the switch, itself. Steve P.S. Steve, your remote switch for the tongue jack seems like quite an interesting project. Thanks for including the pictures!

Hi, Everyone, The tongue jack on our Oliver no longer responds to the switch to raise the tongue of our trailer, and it sometimes is hesitant to lower the tongue. We are wondering if anyone else on the forum has had this experience, and whether anyone has had to replace the tongue jack. I am getting tired of having to use the hand crank to raise the tongue! Thanks, Steve

Yes, thanks, Sherry. Steve