Jump to content

choied

Members
  • Content Count

    25
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

My Info

  • Gender or Couple
    Male

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Year
    2017
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Standard Floor Plan
  • Hull #
    253

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Just got a chance to look at this post. The 400s are definitely cleaner and neater than the 200s...oof.
  2. In addition to the items above, I am figuring out what I believe others have already figured out 🤪- which is I need to change/upgrade my Progressive Dynamics Converter. At this time, Progressive Dynamics is recommending that I go with their newest version, the PD4045CSV, which has a switch to allow users to charge Lithium or LeadAcid batteries. Also, the PD representative pointed out that I would need to upgrade any fuses related to charging the batteries to 60AMP.
  3. Thanks for the picture - Mike & Carol. Very nice and clean! Was wondering if you used a distributor to consolidate the other cables/wiring, i.e., how did you handle the other connections? I cannot see any other lines. And to confirm, the battery connections to and from each other are with 1/0 wiring? Looks to be less than 4/0 gauge on the connections to the cutoff switch as well, correct? Then 4/0 wiring for the mains?
  4. I am currently beginning the process of switching over to LI batteries from the AGMs and actually ended up asking the BattleBorn rep about this issue. He told me that changing out batteries and reprogramming the Solar and Converter to the LI setting should not impact any of the appliances if the RV was wired properly. I guess I will find out in the not so distant future..lol..
  5. Hey folks, I am new to all things solar/battery-related. So please forgive me for any mistakes/errors. I welcome and would very much appreciate any comments/suggestions. I am about to replace my AGM batteries with Lithium Ion (LI) equivalents, specifically Battleborn (100 Ah 12V GC2 LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery). These LI batteries have the same/similar footprint as the 6V AGMs I currently have, so the battery layout on the tray will be much the same. In my limited research, there are at least two possible routes to go on the number of batteries and their respective layouts. One is to go w
  6. After getting the materials to do this job more than a year ago, I finally finished it this past month. Thanks John.
  7. Seems like many of you have gone the Lithium route. My 1st two AGMs petered out this past month, so I am glad to read here that many of you successfully retrofitted. I will likely follow the trail blazed here and do the same.
  8. Oh boy, I am about to upgrade my AGMs to lithium batteries. Do I need to get regulators for all the appliances and splice them in? For some reason I thought leaving the Converter and Solar Charger at the AGM setting would be okay as well vs. changing them to Lithium settings.
  9. Nice recommendation, will gather my stuff and do the same...I have lots of PEX tubing and fittings, etc. collecting dust. I wonder why/how your elbow failed though? Was it a cracked elbow, or a failed crimp, i.e., leaking at the connection point? Not sure, if Oliver used "crimps" or "clamps" back in the day, but my trailer used the plastic-like PEX ring. Your photos in the other post made me believe that "crimps" were used. Using "crimps" requires a check after the crimping to ensure a proper install has been done. To me the PEX ring is the way to go, so much simpler to use/install.
  10. Ken_Judy, My experience with PEX tubing is that the tube and white tubing PEX ring are simply installed over the fitting by expanding them both and then sliding them over the fitting. The only practical reasons for failure would relate to a bad install (i.e., insufficient overlap of the tubing/ring over the fitting) and/or too much pressure in the line. The tube is designed to be able to turn/spin on the fitting without losing its seal. Now, if the movement is more akin to a wobble or slide, then I would be worried. The only way to remove the fitting is to carefully slice into the PEX rin
  11. Ken_Judy, Are they leaking? The lines are allowed to spin after installation; the white connectors and tubing are simply heated and expanded then allowed to tighten over and onto the fitting itself.
  12. I wonder if you could simply get a thermostat plug, e.g., HEATIT ET-21 Freeze Thermostatically Controlled Outlet On at 38F /Off at 50F, plug it into your inverter, and then plug in a heat cable and wrap it around your pipes with some pipe insulation (used often to insulate hot water pipes)...e.g., a 30 ft. Automatic Electric Heat Cable Kit. It should conserve on the use of power, and you could check on it periodically. The cable only takes 7 watts per foot; so not a huge power requirement to run it.
  13. I have carried mine in the truck bed for years. It takes up a fair amount of space as I have a 42 gallon tote, so I have recently considered purchasing a rooftop system so I can strap it on a roof top carrier going forward. The tote is not light though and its size makes it fairly unwieldy....I may need to improvise adding a handle or two to it to decrease the chance of dropping it and cracking the tote.
×
×
  • Create New...