Fritz
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Posts posted by Fritz
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14 hours ago, John E Davies said:
I built a system just like this, except I used a Blu Sea marine rotary select switch instead of a big control relay, and I went with fat 00 welding cable from the truck’s alternator positive and battery negative posts, to self resetting relay, to a double Andersen 175 amp winch disconnect at the bumper. For two regular 100 amp hr lead acid batteries in my “stick and staple” Nash, it charged much faster than traditional smaller gauge wiring would have. I would start the truck, let the truck battery charge for five minutes, then switch all the output to the rear for half an hour of flatland highway towing, then I would hop out and switch to Both for the rest of the trip. Crude, yes. I never flattened the Suburban’s battery. This was In 1988.
So, would this be a reason to order the 30-amp convenience connection? The heavy gauge cable could run from the alternator (via relay or switch) to the back for the bumper and then be plugged into the 30-amp connection (assuming it could be done in some sort of weather-resistant manner).
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I started this thread a couple of years ago, but given the recent twin vs standard bed discussion, and the fact that there are many new OLE2 owners, I'd like to check again: How many of you are 6'2" or taller, and do you find the twin beds comfortable (with heads toward either the front or back of the trailer)? Thanks!
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For those of you with composting toilets, how difficult is it to turn the crank as the chamber begins to fill (i.e., after using the toilet for a couple weeks)? The context here is one of arthritic hands. In advance, thanks for your comments...
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Thank you everyone that contributed to this thread. If we order I'm sure we'll be happy with the the Girard (especially in that it can't be deleted from the build). But perhaps today's posting about a dead Dometic awning illustrates the benefits of a simple, sturdy, high-quality manual-crank alternative -- a simpler awning that gets the job done with less risk of failure...
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Along these same lines, an app that I really like is Windy (https://www.windy.com/). The app shows world-wide wind patterns; you can zoom into local areas and look at projections for 7+ days into the future. It may not show local events (for example, it did not show the derecho that we drove through in eastern Iowa this week on our way to Idaho), but it does a pretty good job projecting general wind direction and intensity. We use it to plan travel days (or times of the day) to avoid strong headwinds or take advantage of tailwinds.
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While it may be possible to manually retract the awning in an emergency, I believe that extension and retraction of the Girard awning is intended to be done electronically with the remote.
Although Oliver or those of you with electronic awnings might still convince me that the electronic awnings are better, I think my current preference would be a simpler, manual awning with side support arms. Seems like it would be more stable in wind, could be set at more of a tilt to shed rain better (to provide cover for a least one partially open window in the rain), etc.
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8 hours ago, Jairon said:
Fritz, did someone at Oliver tell you they are switching to Girard awnings? If so, did they say why and which models they will be using?
Yes, I understand they are going to Girard, but I don’t know which model. I also understand that there will not be a manual option; the only options will be electric or auto-electric with wind sensor.
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No, the Girard does not appear to come with support legs. There was an earlier thread about adding support poles (e.g., adjustable REI poles) and guy lines to secure an awning, and perhaps this could somehow be made to work with the Girard.
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Perhaps better stated, in your experience does the convenience of electric operation and auto retraction in wind outweigh the stability that comes with older-style awnings having support arms and the ability to tilt for shedding rain (but that require manual operation)?
Fritz
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I’m curious about your experiences with the electric awnings that Oliver is using (I understand that 2020 awnings are Dometic brand, and that the 2021 models will have Girard awnings). Do they provide sufficient shade, do they retract reliably, do they seem stable? Do you use them in the rain, and if so, does water pool in the awning? Given your experiences, would you prefer an automatic electric awning or go back to a manual awning with trailer-side support arms for stability? Thanks!
Fritz
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Thanks for the report. How fast are you typically driving to get to the 17.6 mpg average? Is the 50+/- mph going up passes truly comfortable (or is the engine straining)? Last week we drove our 9,000 lb Sprinter up a long driveway with a 10-12% grade — do you think your combo make it up the hill? I realize the 3/4 ton would likely not strain at all, but I’m highly encouraged by the fuel mileage and the range that you’ve achieved with the half-ton. Thanks again.
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BigTexas, I’m curious about your experience in towing with the ecodiesel. Has it provided sufficient power? Do you have sufficient payload? Do you have sufficient engine braking on syeep downhills? Have you tracked average towing mpg? If you were purchasing a new tow vehicle, might it be a new ecodiesel (or the Ford equivalent)? In advance, thanks for your insights.
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Carl, I apologize for the delayed reply. It looks like you are doing your homework. My only point was that Sprinters come in many sizes and weights, and ours (2500, and outfitted as a camper) is close to 9,000 lbs when loaded for a typical trip with passengers, water, gear, food, etc. (I stop periodically at closed weigh stations to check axle weights). This van weight and an Ollie in tow would exceed the CGVWR of 13,500 lbs. (so no, we do not tow an Ollie with it). However, your van, if substantially emptier, or configured differently, could be just fine with regard to weight limits. Good luck!
Fritz
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To clarify, I meant a combined weight limit of around 12,000 lbs. Ours has a gvwr of about 8,500, which is approximately what the van weighed when outfitted. We've upgraded suspension to safely handle the 9,000 lbs. Point is, all of these numbers may be substantially different with your van, but there are other criteria than the simple 5,000 lb towing capacity. Good luck!
Fritz
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As others have mentioned, just as important as towing capacity is gross vehicle weight and hitch weight. The size of your Sprinter (e.g., regular wheelbase, extended wheelbase, etc) influences these other criteria. Our Sprinter, (2008, extended wheelbase, has a gross vehicle rating of around 12,000 lbs (if memory serves), but weighs about 9,000 lbs when traveling (with RV interior, water, normal amounts of food and gear). This, in your case, would leave about 3,000 lbs for towing, insufficient for any Oliver.
Fritz
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Thank you, Bill and John, for your comments. I've seen one LE2 (thanks to Carol and Stan) on a trip back east last fall, but it was not a twin bed version. I recognize that the bed length is the same, but the twin bed version has less space to hang one's feet over the edge. So yes, we'll look for an opportunity to see a twin bed model in the future.
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I'm curious if you tall folks (e.g., 6'2" or 74" +/-) find the the "twin" beds comfortable, given the 75" (6'3") bed length. Do you end up sleeping slightly sideways? Does the rounded corner feel like a space constraint? I apologize if this has been asked and answered, but a search on this topic didn't result in an answer for twin beds...
In advance, thanks for your insight. BTW, I've enjoyed lurking in this forum; I've been impressed by the number of thoughtful, engaged owners and the abundant, useful information.
Fritz
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LiFeBlue Battery Representative
in Introduce Yourself
Posted
So how inefficient would you expect it to be if you're driving anyway, and just charging while traveling?