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  1. Better to have them separate, IMHO. There are often more options for emptying the gray-water tank when plumbed separately from the black-water tank. Some users will rely on public facilities for extending black-water tank capacity; you may have options for emptying the gray-water tank without going to the dump station (e.g,. bucket to drain, etc).
  2. Thank you all for your responses. John, thank you for directing me to the March discussion -- I had missed that. I'm adding some weight to the truck, and will then weigh the truck, trailer, hitch, etc. next time I see a closed weigh station along the freeway. Then decide on something, or not. Thanks all.
  3. An additional question: does the Anderson WDH create undue strain when driving through dips (for example, like those found pulling out of a parking lot onto a crowned road, or across Tilly-humps on a Forest Service road)?
  4. Thanks, Bill. I don't think there are any lasting issues, in that it didn't sling tar. There is very little to clean from the trailer. Plus, it occurred on only one side.
  5. I will be adding a cap on Monday (perhaps 250 lbs?) and rock tamers (~32 lbs) -- do you think that might be enough to help? For a while about a month ago I had an extra 20 gallons of diesel fuel (perhaps 160 lbs in four 5-gallon diesel jugs) in the bed during the recent Colonial pipeline episode. Didn't notice any obvious difference then, but perhaps with a bit more weight from the shell ....
  6. Yes, John, that is a very genteel way of putting it. I called 911 and the Dept of Transportation (took several calls to get the right DOT person late in the day). DOT sent an inspector and the pavement contractor, and the contractor then sent a mechanic to help scrape tires. We worked on them for 2 1/2 hours. At first the inspector would not believe that this came from the interstate, because the pavement had been down, with traffic, for several hours. Then they went out and found the spot where we picked up the tar and gravel: it was along the seam between two lanes where I had done a low-speed (~15 mph) lane change in nearly stopped traffic; the inspector thought the contractor had not sufficiently cleaned dust and debris from the old pavement before laying down the new tar and gravel, allowing the new stuff to peel up. This was also more than the average chip seal, where they just coat the road with a thin layer of tar before applying gravel; it was a thick layer of tar (I assume so that the gravel becomes embedded in the roadway). Here is another pic with tar just dripping from a truck tire (and this was taken after having slowly driven about a mile to get away from what I thought was a dangerous freeway merge zone).
  7. Here is, I believe, a working link to Jason's video:
  8. Here is another Anderson question: We're towing Hull 792 (LE2) with a 2021 3/4 ton Ram with Cummins diesel, with a standard BW adjustable hitch. The trailer weighs 5k lbs empty, almost certainly less than 6k lbs full, and is well within the truck's towing and payload capacity. The trailer tows well (we've towed it about 4,000 miles so far), the engine is relaxed, there is no sway, but there is a bit more porpoising than I would like. It's ultimately secure, but I feel the trailer jounce a bit on uneven concrete freeway or highway-bridge transitions. Perhaps the porpoising is normal, perhaps not. The 3/4 ton rams have coil springs, which may be a bit softer than leaf springs on GMs and Fords, although I understand that GM and Ford are using longer leaf springs in newer trucks to soften the ride. Seems there are 3 options for reducing jounce: the Anderson WDH, stiffer shocks, or air bags. I've resisted the Anderson because of the forum comments about hassling with the WDH. Shocks would stiffen the ride all the time, even when empty, and the air bags would reduce sag (of which we don't have much, perhaps 1.5") but not necessarily add jounce control. The Ram manual recommends (but does not say "require") WDHs with trailer weights over 5k lbs, but it's a rather generic recommendation (it does not, for instance, distinguish between diesel and gas engines, the diesel being substantially heavier). If I were towing 12k lbs there would be no question, but 5,800 lbs? Anyway, this topic has been discussed in a variety of ways, but I'm interested in your thoughts about reducing porpoising in a 3/4 ton Ram, perhaps by adding the Anderson WDH or other measures. (I'm reluctant to do this, knowing that some of you have celebrated ditching the Anderson!) Thanks, Folks.
  9. It's orange-barrel season out west, and in the last 5 miles of a 6,500 mile trip we picked up some newly chip-sealed pavement from I-84. Not just a little tar, but an entire piece of roadway. Thick, gooey stuff. It incapacitated our rig. After removing the worst of it, we drove about a mile to an off-freeway parking lot, where the road contractor (responding to my substantial fuss) and I removed another 14 lbs of tar and gravel from the left side TV and trailer tires. Next day I went to the Commercial Tire store, which sells Cooper tires, to make sure there was no lasting tire damage. The fella told me that the tires were OK, but that the Oliver tires are truck tires (no surprise -- I knew that) but that truck tires shouldn't be used on trailers. He said they are not designed for the sideways scrubbing that occurs when turning, and that excess scrubbing can lead to tread separation. He said trailer tires ("ST" for "Special Trailer," instead of "LT" for "Light Truck) are meant to handle sideways scrubbing, but do not come in the size of tire that is installed on the Oliver. I wanted another opinion, so I took the rig to another tire dealer (Les Schwab, a regional shop), and the guy said "don't worry about it." He said they see truck tires on trailers all the time, without problem. So there you have it, FWIW. Just thought I'd share. Opinions? p.s., tires look clean again, after driving a couple hundred additional miles. I drove very slowly both prior to scrubbing (had to: the tires were too unweighted) and after scrubbing, to avoid slinging any remaining tar onto that new, freshly waxed hull. There are mudflaps in our future. p.s.s: The first tire dealer also said that they'd recently seen a couple cars with so much tar in the wheel wells that the wheels would not turn, and if the tar sets up (which in our case it did not) it completely ruins the tires.
  10. I'm sure this is not the case, but just to be sure: the hitch size is the same size as the ball, right? A 2 5/16" ball in a 2" hitch would be difficult to separate (if it fits at all...).
  11. Please help me understand... When the 120V breaker under the dinette is off and the trailer is plugged in to shore power, are the fridge (when set to AC) and the A/C running on battery (inverted?) or on shore power? If I understand this discussion, setting #26 to off uses the inverter to invert, but not charge? Is there any way to plug in to shore power and use the 120V system without using the inverter to invert or charge? Thanks! ps: I don’t love the inverter yet. It doesn’t communicate well with the remote, is loud, and keeps tripping the 12V breaker under the streetside bed. It’ not intuitive for me. Electrical schematics for the trailer would help!!
  12. No Bluetooth thermostat on hull 792 either, despite the manual describing one. At delivery, Hannah mentioned that they always upgrade to something better if making a switch, but perhaps in this case…. Service did suggest that Bluetooth and compatible thermostats are available from other sources.
  13. We too found that a partially extended Girard forms pools in the rain (we have the sunbrella material). I noticed that a partially extended awning does not have as much of a front-back angle as a fully extended one (which could contribute to the pooling), but I'd be reluctant to leave the awning fully extended in a rainstorm.
  14. I too asked about electrical diagrams at delivery about a month ago, and was politely told no. And was also told that they change frequently, other trailer manufacturers don't provide them, and most technicians can figure it out. The 2020 and 2021 manuals do have battery wiring diagrams, but not for lithium.
  15. Thank you, SeaDawg. I did open a ticket about 2 weeks ago; Jason said he would explore the noisy fan with Xantrex. I'm just wondering if this is an isolated problem, or if others (especially those with the lithium package and 3000W inverters) experience excess noise. Just checked the periodic maintenance-charging noise level (i.e., periodic charging when batteries are full and the fan kicks on about every 15 minutes fo a minute): it's about 50 dB.
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