MarkC

Ordered a OTT and will be delivered Sept. with lithium battery package. I've been reading about the neutral ground plug and not sure how it works yet...only that I need one. Looking at the Honda e2200I companion generator...it has 1ea, 125v and 1ea, 30v receptacle. I plug the neutral ground plug into the 125v and the 30amp into the trailer. Correct, so far? My question is...what if I want to run a 125v tool at the generator while hooked up this way? Can I plug a Y into the 125v receptacle, plug the neutral ground plug into one leg of the Y and the tool cord into the other side of the Y. Does that allow the neutral ground plug to still do what its suppose to do? Or should I disconnect the 30 side from trailer first? Not sure why Honda only put one 125v receptacle on this unit as it has two on the E2200I regular unit. Must have to do with amp/volts.

Thanks John! Much appreciated!

Ordered a Ott coming Sept. 22. Would like to put a design with letters on front of trailer. I’m sure there are good and better materials used for this application. Looking for suggestions on what type of material works best and what to avoid.

With this on going virus epidemic we are all concerned about sanitation. I was wondering if you should store your trailer with tank full or empty? Some of my thoughts...1. Fill tanks with a bleach solution before storage to prevent germ and bacteria growth. 2. Wondering if empty tank or full tank and lines are more susceptible to germ growth? 3. Are there other advantages to an empty or full condition during storeage? Seals, rings, washers drying out? Rving has been around a long time and I haven't read about this being a problem. But, with all this time on ones hands, your mind sometimes drifts to the extreme. Stay safe and healthy!

Was reading wyofilm post about his new trailer furnace not working. I'm I correct in assuming the Oliver heater is not suppose to work above a certain altitude? But some of them do work? And, if you are one of the unlucky and yours won't work, you can get a high alt. kit for it. How much do those cost? If you get the kit does it function at lower altitudes ok? Wondering why Oliver isn't installing a furnace that works everywhere or just puts the kit on each unit. I'm guessing you can't have a furnace that will work in both low and high altitudes. Otherwise, I would think Oliver would be using that brand. Are those of you that have a furnace that doesn't work in high alt. using a generator with a small space heater? I live out West and most of my camping will be at high elevations and even in summer a little heat in the AM is welcome. This is a concern for me as I don't like the idea of using a generator every time. What is everyone one doing for a solution. I've never owned an RV and maybe this is just the way it is and you live with it. But gezzzz, we put a man on the moon, cant there be a furnace that works everywhere? I'm missing something here.

After reading about solar systems and generators I still am trying to get my head around the electrical. Here's what I think I know thus far...but not positive. 1. You need a generator to run AC off the grid. You need two 2000w generators if you want to run AC and something else at the same time. 2. You need a generator to charge batteries if there is no sunlight. Guessing here...bigger the generator , faster the charge? 3. Some parks won't let you run your generator at certain times. Is this common? So, no AC at night unless you are hooked up to power, Wondering if parks in the warmer climates let you run your generator at night if its 90 degrees? 4. If you are hooked up to a 30 amp. are you using any of your battery power for other stuff. 5. If you are hooked up to 30 amp. and run your AC all night do your batteries get charged at the same time? 6. Thinking with today's technology that much of the power identification is automatic but this is all new to me. Do you have to manually flip switches to tell system if its using solar, battery, or ...not sure what you call it, shore power, park power, grid power. I like the idea of having a generator. Can I get by with just one 2000w to run the AC with the soft start up ? Thanks for your advice!

I got the long bed. It fits my needs and have always owned one. But definitely a challenge parking and turning around. I've always said you have to back up twice to turn around. If you've never driven one it can be intimidating at first. I like the space...dog kennels, waterfowl decoys, coolers, etc. Never seem to have enough room and only use half of what I take. What's that saying..."be prepared." I probably take it too far. Again, get what you like. I must say, two trucks ago, my wife and 3 boys talked me into getting a gas, short bed, 2500 chev. I was driving an F350 diesel at the time. I let them talk me into it. Pretty blue one. The boys thought it was much sportier than the old ford. First week I had to tow a tractor on a heavy trailer. First time I had to accelerate from a stop light convinced me I shouldn't of listened to them. No power and I filled it up 3 times in a week! Following Monday, took it back to the dealer and got a 3500 long bed duramax, black. Just what I wanted!

Just traded my 2005 duramax in on a 2020 Ford F350 diesel. This will be my 4th diesel p/u. Over kill for an Oliver but you don't have to worry about weight.I don't like all the emission stuff and went round and round with gas vs diesel debate. Finally threw my hands up and said what the hell and bought the diesel. I like the torque...so much more that the 05 dura max. Like the fuel tank...range guage says almost 900 miles after fill up just an est. and not towing. The 10 speed transmission is great...turns about 1400 rpm @ 55 mph. It does have a camera, tpms system option that you can add to your trailer and can read on your dash. Which I liked until I found out the camera only operates when in reverse. I think I will opt. for the Oliver camera. The ride is stiffer than the Chev. but I think that is generally the case. Had a F350 before I purchased the duramax and was impressed with the ride of the chev. over the Ford at the time. But put a trailer on it or weight in the bed will make a big difference. I don't think you'll go wrong with any of the big 3 makers. Just get what you like. Good luck and good health.

I read John Davies post from 2017 regarding the 2" Bulldog hitch and Anderson ball and sway system. Am I correct in assuming that the wear was normal and was caused by the Anderson system. And, if you eliminate the Anderson system there will be no wear. I will be towing with a 1 ton pickup and have been told that I won't need the Anderson system. I guess, just hook up ball and safety chains and go. My next question is...would I be smart to go with a 2 5/16 bulldog with this TV rather than the 2" setup? I think I read where the 2" bull dog hitch just meet specs. I'm thinking the 2 5/16 would give a better safety margin, or am I thinking too much. Thanks for any thoughts!

Doing toilet research. Compost vs reg. toilet. Another dumb newbie question...Never been to a dump station. Just wondering how long the whole process takes? Does one just dump the black tank? Or is this where you fill your water tank too? I'm trying to imagine what the lines are like in Aug. at National parks. Is it such an inconvenience that you have to plan your trip around when your going to dump. I have no idea. I can see myself the first time fumbling around with 10 trailers backed up and honking. Like launching your boat at a popular ramp labor day weekend and it jack knifes on you as you try to hurry because there is 20 other boats waiting. Do you have to leave at 3am to avoid the rush at the dump station. Is this a strong factor for choosing a compost toilet? Also, are these stations serviced regularly by the agencies? I suppose it's like rest area toilet facilities. All new territory. Any thoughts would help me to make a decision on the toilet choice...Thanks!

Researching TV and trailer purchase. Ford has a rear view trailer camera that will sinc with its monitor inside the truck. It is a hard wire unit. I was thinking I could send the unit to Oliver and have them run the wires inside when they build the trailer. They said they could do this for an additional fee. Was wondering if anyone has done this? I understand the unit will only work while the truck is in reverse. Don't understand why that is, or if I like the idea. Seem like one might want to take a peak while go down the road. However, maybe not a big deal. I don't know if the camera that Oliver offers as an option works all the time. But it does require a separate monitor. I like the idea of only one screen but not the fact it only works in reverse. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Also, Ford offers a TPMS unit that works with it's monitor. However, I read that the valves don't fit on all rims. Can you get adapters that will make the valve work? Or purchase another brand that fits the Oliver rim? But, will it work with the Ford software? Has anyone experienced this problem? Probably a question for Oliver service. Geeez, somethings are not easy. Maybe just a pocket tire gauge and one of those oval mirrors like the mail trucks have. Thanks for your thoughts!

Thanks for responding! Over the years I became aware of how different the water tasted in different areas of the country. Some good and some really bad. I'm going to use the bottled water method for drinking as you suggested. And, just use the fresh tank for bathing and dishes.

Thanks for your input. I'd read some suggestions putting the filter upstream of the softener. Then others stated downstream which made me think the softener may effect the taste of the water. I agree with you in placing the filter before the softener. And thanks for the smaller softener size tip. I tend to think bigger is better. I think after a few camping trips I'll be throwing that theory out the window.

Reading about the benefits of a softener and am convinced it could save you money down the line. Was wondering if they effect the taste? Do you install a filter down stream from the softener? I'm guessing there are water filters and there are water filters from looking at the prices...$30 to $300. So if you like to chew your water get the $30 unit or if you want artisan go for the $300. I'm unsure about such a big spread in price vs performance. Maybe the water softener is all I need. I'm also wondering if most people prefer to carry bottled water for drinking? Thinking just another thing to take. But don't know...first time.

Thanks so much for your response! This was exactly what I was hoping to hear. I think this trailer will be a good fit for me. I plan on being in Montana and the Dakotas in fall and early winter every year. After reading your reply I will feel comfortable being there in an Oliver. Thanks again!

Will have a base to return to...restock, laundry, recharge my personal batteries then hit the road again. Never done this before but thinking 2-3 week trips at first, return to recharge then take off again. Then increasing time on the road. I have lots of places I'd like to see!

First of all I should qualify myself...Never been RVing before but just put my house up for sale and will ordering an OliverII when sold. Been searching the forum for answers about cold weather camping. I was told by Oliver that the heat ducts go around the tanks and keep them warm. And, people in Montana and the Dakato's own these trailers. (But do they camp in freezing temps.) Also the owner of the company camps during the winter. These were not the answers I was hoping for. Then, I read that someone has put addition space heaters in areas. One I think was under the bed on street side. My question is...Can I camp in freezing weather, say down to 10 degrees, with just the heater going an be safe from freezing? Do I need to cover the outside fittings, ie city water connection, shower nozzle? Do I need at additional heaters in voids under the floors, bed, bath, cabinets? I'm not planning prolonged winter camps. But, sometimes the weather can change rapidly at high elevations and in some areas of the country in late fall or early winter. Do I winterize and go without water in the winter. Do I need extra heaters. I'm hoping all I need to do is leave the heater on and not run out of propane. I realize that there is no definitive answer as the conditions vary but was hoping some of you have experienced cold weather and pass along how you deal with the experience. Thank you!

Having a addition portable panel was suggested by a friend. Said it was a good backup if you park under trees or shade. I'm thinking that Oliver can install the hardware for hook up out side the trailer. I'm wondering if the connection are all standard or do each manufacturer have their own style. If so, I guess I should purchase the unit before ordering a trailer. The other question that come to mind is...when the portable unit is hooked up can both the roof top and portable unit work together if I was parked in full sun? Or is each one on a separate circuit. Thanks!

I won't have the opportunity to try one out before purchase. But, was just wondering if most people are happy with the 4" foam standard mattress or do most opt out for the upgrade? And the condensation mat yes or no? Sounds like a good idea but don't know. Thanks!

First off, I'm not considering attempting traveling on western mountain passes. I have experienced driving in winter conditions, Just not pulling a trailer. I like to travel in North and South Dakota in the late fall. Sometimes you get a snow storm, Does one just sit it out or can you operate safely on compact snow and ice with an Oliver. Do you go as far as putting studded tires on your trailer? I know they restrict trailers sometimes on passes. Just wondering what people do in the winter months. Head South or store the trailer until spring?

Been scouring the web about this topic and what an assortment of possibilities. Meguairs, collinite, Mothers, Rejex, Griots, Duragloss, Sea Shield, to name a few. Then there is cleaners, wash and wax, oxidation removers (light, moderate, severer), one step does all, polishers, wax ( paste, liquid), on and on. Electric polisher, orbital or non, cordless? Foam pads or wool? By now you can see my quandary. I enjoy the research but have yet to come to a solid conclusion. I like the powertool rather than elbow grease method. I'm thinking one steps products don't do as good a job and multiple steps. Don't know which is better...foam pads or wool (I think some of these thread refer to auto paint jobs rather than fiberglass). If you begin with a new trailer can you get by with just washing and waxing with a periodic oxidation removal? Depending on use and exposure. Definitely a big job and looking for the best solution.

Thanks, John! I saw on a previous post that showed multiple olivers on their lot. One looked like it had that black bed liner on the propane cover and front lower section. I'm sure that must be a permanent application but cant tell by the photo.

If you get minor damage to the exterior (rock chips, etc.) is there a DIY method to repair. I'm thinking of a compound or spray one could apply to smooth out the body. Or, is this a factory or professional issue.

Thanks David! Will now research sharkbite and Pex. All new territory. Part of the fun!

Has anyone created a list of spare parts one should have on hand. I've read where people carry fuses, wheel bearings, and hot water heater rod. Everyone has their own level of being prepared. I'm interested if someone wants to share experiences where they wished they had a certain part when camping. I'm thinking...spare plumbing hose, plumbing fittings, filters, wiring and electrical stuff, etc. Thanks!