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WhatDa

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WhatDa last won the day on November 29

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My Info

  • Gender or Couple
    Couple

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Year
    2019
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Standard Floor Plan
  • Hull #
    529

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  1. You could also look at a propane tank heater. They will take some of your electricity away (~150 watts) but your gas performance will be much better. If it's really cold, you might also look at insulating your propane lines.
  2. With a 6'5" bed and decent real payload, the biggest thing holding the Tesla Truck from camper greatness is the C-pillar extending so far back. As a chassis, it'd make an interesting class b/c motorhome.
  3. My needs would be different if we weren't still working. Our trips are usually less than 300 miles total range this year (ie quick weekend getaway), but we live 10 miles away from the start of an obscene amount of national forest service land in the Cascades. Each of the "gateways" that lead into the Cascades either already have a supercharger or will by next year. Our week-long off-grid trips are either covered or will be covered by superchargers by next year - for example: Glacier (Kalispell and Shelby), Teton/Yellowstone (Cody, West Yellowstone, Jackson), Yosemite (Groveland, Fish Camp, Mammoth Lakes), Arches/Moab (Moab has its own supercharger), etc... The nice thing about Tesla is it can figure out the supercharging stops for you, all you need to do is input where you want to go and navigation is handled for you. It will be interesting to see how they account for towing though. It even knows you are getting close to the charger, so it conditions the battery for optimal charging. If there isn't a supercharger close enough to meet our needs in and out, then we'll have to rough it and spend a night in a campground the first night of the trip. If that doesn't work we can evaluate going trailerless with the 500+ mile range and sleeping in the back (6'5" bed for the win), or just renting from Enterprise Trucks and rolling coal. Then to put it all in perspective: for us the week-long trips are about 4x a year, weekend trips 1-2x a month, but commuting is a ~200x a year thing now. So while I am definitely making some concessions vs my ecoboost setup or a Duramax, the net win for commuting pays off for me -- but probably doesn't for many. Finally, the driving experience of electrics: no shifting, nearly limitless engine braking, great low-speed torque/control, and despite all the doodads and geegaws described above, the overall package is LESS complex than a modern gas/diesel. Closing anecdote: The AGM upgrade for the Oliver costs $1200. The Tesla with approximately 200x the useable capacity costs $70,000. That's getting the batteries at 70% off with a free truck 🙂
  4. Been "offline" as I started a new job. But I did pre-order the cyber truck. It's refundable so I can see how the details work out. 1) It's got a 6.5" bed with what looks to be an actual weather/dustproof design. 2) It's a hair shorter than an F150 with a 5.5" bed. 3) standard air suspension 4) Price parity with any of the big three trucks by the time you get them to adaptive cruise/blindspot/forward collision/ lane departure. Lariat is 65k, Laramie is 61k, LTZ is 62k. These will sell for less, but by the time you figure in the savings in fuel costs, they probably cost more than the 500 mile Tesla. 5) Convenience - it is a bit of a toss up, but if I have a 50A receptacle when I pull in for the night, that's 160 kWh that I could add overnight without having to make a fuel stop as either the first thing in the morning or last thing at night. However, it means my midday stop for most days will be confined to where a supercharger is, and lunch will be whatever is close by. It does mean for "travel" days we probably don't want to boondock as ending or starting the day on the supercharger isn't ideal. Where it wins is for my day to day life, it means never going to a gas station. 6) it says it's coming with a 240v receptacle and a 120v. If the amperage is higher on these (it sounds like it might be), then I just got a nice power bank for my trailer. Like enough to run the AC for a couple/few weeks. It will also have an option for its own solar that is capable of ~15 miles/day of charging 7) even if Rivian or Ford come out with an electric truck that matches this in every way, the Electrify America/non-tesla network of fast chargers just sucks right now. I'm hoping that this works well with towing with the existing supercharger network as well as the buildout tesla is doing for the tesla semi. 8 ) Tesla is the only manufacturer that has made their cars better over time. My FoMoCo product is pretty much the same as when it was released with only a few buggy updates. The maps refuse to update (which required going to a website, formatting a USB properly, copying files over, renaming a .tar.gz file to get it to copy, and then still failed). In the meantime, Tesla dropped dog mode (keeps doggo cool in the car while you go shopping), sentry mode (records action around the car using the 360 camera), dashcam mode (duplicates having a gopro front and rear (and then updated it to include sides too)), upgraded charging to 250kW, Navigate on Auto Pilot (car chooses proper lanes and handles interchanges), and a bunch of other features. Lincoln came out with the Nautilus that supports lane centering (enhanced lane keep assist), but not even the 2020 Navigator supports it. What remains to be seen is how well this is adapted to towing (anti-sway/reversing/does blind spot cover the trailer/etc..). How they expand/improve their superchargers for charging. The looks don't really strike my fancy, but the same goes for about all new trucks sold. At least this one doesn't come with watercolor paint that will die at the first blackberry bush/branch/fingernail it meets. In the end, if it doesn't work out -- I will get my $100 back.
  5. I think the one for sale today doesn't differ much from the one sold when you bought. We need something to get some of the crevices/cushions in the oliver and clean out the tow vehicle. The corded ones just seemed like too much trouble to undo a cord, move it to do the TV, and wind the cord again for 5 minutes of vacuuming. I was picturing having to keep whatever we get in the basement, but forgot that we still have plenty of room in the closet shelves, which would make it more accessible.
  6. An anecdote for us at least. We packed for ~6 month long trip and I had anticipated needing to overflow into the tow vehicle for extra room. We were very selective in what we took and in the end the Oliver LE2 had room for my stuff, wife's stuff, and dog's stuff and we still have extra basement and overhead room. If you are coming from a fifth wheel with slides, you may not feel the same - but for us it works out to more than we need.
  7. I ordered the autoformer. About $300 and a bunch of bulk. It makes the site we are on usable, abut we are still limited to about 2000W of draw before we start dipping below 110V. The big change is we can actually use the microwave/convection oven now with out getting a low voltage cutoff. The switch between passthru and 10% boost is pretty quick. For a fixed site it works fairly well, but I'd like a more mobile/adaptable solution for the long term. In my research, I've seen a ton of underperforming campgrounds in the summer, so looking at something where I have the ability to use the AC to charger the batteries, with solar help, and use an inverter for clean and proper power to everything else might be the end solution, even if its less efficient than a straight passthrough.
  8. Anyone use one of the portable wet-dry vacs like the DeWalt https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCV581H-20-Volt-Cordless-Wet-Dry/dp/B00DD1UQ3Y/ or Milwaukee? https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-0880-20-18-Volt-Cordless-Vacuum/dp/B001AHMQ90/ Being able to share batteries with all the other tools is a plus, seems a little beefier than the smaller vacuums, with the addition of maybe also doing some light leaf blowing duties to clean the awnings?
  9. below freezing is also very relative. The heater will keep most things warm, but the highest risk is the outside shower. Ours didn't freeze up, but there was definitely frozen water inside the door that I had dribbled before putting it away. At some point I will put an isolation valve/drain on those lines. This was at 20 degrees with probably 80-90mph wind chill while in motion (quartering headwind).
  10. I have no inverter now as I planned on getting a multiplus anyways for my lithium battery upgrade. I skipped on the Xantrex as the pricing (from oliver) was about the same as the multiplus from another vendor. From what I see of the multiplus is I could set a current at which it kicks in the inverter to help, but it doesn't appear to do any voltage sensing to determine when to do this on its own? The way I see the cleanest power a phoenix charger to provide constant DC and a phoenix inverter to provide the clean AC to the chassis. This might just move the timing up a bit for Lithium and Victron electrics. I am going to take a power strip, some heaters, and a 30a adapter to test the more sites to see if any are better. The spot we are on is perfect from a privacy/view/location standpoint, but with power issues. The few I tested with the trailer either had the same, or maybe only slightly less worse issues (my guess is undersized cables but shorter runs on the "better" sites). The autoformer, from what I can tell, is a switch with either a direct line or 10% boost transformer. If power goes below 113V, it switches to the 10% boost (bringing Voltage up to 124v at 113, or at the 103 I see with a load back up to 113). This obviously means at least 10% more current. Seems like it'd do the trick, but with unknown efficiency I'm probably limited to ~25A before the breaker trips. I agree the power runs here are likely undersized, since we are starting at 120-124 and dropping from there, I am guessing it is the individual campsite runs that are undersized as all the other campers are already running their space heaters and if whatever main circuit were already sagged, it wouldn't have as much as an impact from a 1500W heater. None of the neighbors anything about low voltage. 50A sites are here, but very limited. There'd be some very hurt feelings when fifth wheel owners see a little Ollie on their site. Maybe if I do my 50A conversion they would feel less so?
  11. Park outlets test at ~120V on the Fluke DMM, when I plug in the Progressive says 120V. But as I add loads voltage drops until the progressive cuts things off at 104V. Guy in the park says to get/use an autoformer. We do really like this park... Would any of the Victron goodies help as well? Thoughts on the autoformer? Go solar only?
  12. Yes we really wanted a 3/4 ton, but the size is an issue due to spending lots of time in/around cities and ferry restrictions as well. The Navigator has been in every major city on the East Coast and Seattle as well.
  13. How to weigh your truck and trailer at a CAT scale: CAT scales are at most rest stops frequented by truckers. They provide your steer axle (front wheels), drive axle (rear wheels), and trailer weight. This lets you know if you are in limits or not. 1) find a cat scale - they have big yellow signs that say CAT scale on them. https://catscale.com/cat-scale-locator/ can help 1a) Sign up for Weigh My Truck and download/setup the app if you want to use this service. It lets you get the weight and a PDF of your results without ever having to go into the store and interact with humans. https://weighmytruck.com/ "create driver account" - you'll need to add a payment method. Sign into the app on your phone afterwards and make sure it's working before you are sitting on the scale. 2) drive to the scale - I try to use them when there aren't a bunch of truckers queued for them. 3) drive onto the scale, you will see two yellow lines on them - put your front wheels just past the furthest line, and make sure the second line is between your trailer and rear wheels. 4) shift to neutral, use parking brake - this prevents weights being skewed by loads from brakes being applied. 5) either press the button the app (you are done) or press the button on the intercom (it'll probably be a little higher than you'd like unless you have an MDT). 6) get off the scale - get the receipt inside if you didn't use the app. If you want to get an idea of your tongue weight, disconnect in the parking area, and reweigh just the truck. I strongly advise against dropping your trailer on the scale.
  14. I see it here and on FB, the question of whether a particular vehicle can tow the Oliver. In the end, it depends - a lot. As part of our little cross country run in the Oliver, I weighed it more than a few times as it was hitched to my Navigator. The specs that are on the doorjamb of my navigator are: Payload 1500lbs (ie factory computed actual curb weight subtracted from GVWR) Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR): 6800lbs (Total weight on my truck should not exceed this) Front Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR): 3625lbs (the weight on my front axles should not exceed this) Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating: 4380lbs (the rear limit) The problem is none of this shows up - besides the 6800lbs - in any material available before purchase. Even the axle weight ratings are pretty useless as I have no idea how much of my "5300lbs" of curb weight are on the rear axle to begin with. To really understand capabilities, I need to take this information with me to a scale to see. I haven't had a chance to weigh the empty/loaded truck by itself, so we'll go with the full up loaded truck+loaded trailer scenarios. First we weighed in with our base load including driver, co-pilot, and rest stop dictator (doggo) in the second row: Total weight in Tow Vehicle: 7420 - 380lbs below max gross - plenty to spare Rear axle weight: 4340 - only 40lbs under the limit - but legal So I removed a piece of luggage from the rear of the SUV and put it in the back of the Oliver - we also gained some other stuff before my next scale date: Even though we gained overall weight (40 lbs), the rear axle of the SUV lost weight -- due to the distribution of weight in the trailer. We still had well over 10% weight. But I needed to carry my all season tires+wheels in the trailer - so I adjusted the Andersen and did a re-weigh: Not only did this lower my rear (drive) axle weight by 80 lbs, but it pushed some of that weight not only to the trailer - but to my front tires so that I have a little more steering authority. So I added the all season tires (and now winter tires are on the SUV): Total weight: 7600lbs -- 200lbs under gross. Rear (drive) axle weight is now exceeded. I moved two of the tires to the trailer for the rest of the trip (it was fun moving them back and forth after every stop) and then adjusted the Andersen again - which brought us well within specs on the re-weigh (which I had to get manually printed so it's not included in this post. So what I learned: I'm probably not going to hit max vehicle gross weight before I hit my rear axle weight. Not without really using the Andersen at max potential to push more weight to the front or without carrying more of the load in the second row floor/where doggo is. Pilot/Co-Pilot are pretty light in our case. What this means for you: whether your vehicle can tow or not will depend on your vehicle, how it's specifically configured, your weight, your stuff's weight, and where you put your weight. The Navigator works brilliantly for us, as long as I don't have 340lbs of tires+wheels in it. It might not work for someone else who needs to carry more stuff in the truck. The same goes for someone in an F150, Tundra, etc... Some trucks just won't work - Honda Ridgelines need not apply. For those that want to know how to weigh in - that will be my first reply to this topic. Please include your results below.
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