nrvale0

So when I went to NAPA to get grease today they had one of the air-driven grease guns on sale. Y, I gotta say, that was a good purchase. The angled zerks I installed previously actually gave me more problems than the new gun. I guess I'll be keeping it. ;)

There was quite a bit of plastic shaving in the filter -- I assume I must have hit some rough roads that shook things loose that didn't shake loose when I first set sail. Cleaned that out and it does seem to have helped a little bit but see attached video. I'll order a rebuild kit today and maybe film the service to post here after I'm done. VID_20201226_135906.mp4

My trailer suspension starts to creak a bit if I let it go more than 3k miles. Its like clockwork. I figure a tube of grease is cheap.

I know you weren't asking me but I have a hand-pump that's nearly the size of these charged ones and I carry it and a couple of tubes of grease with me (FTer). Home Depot has small black+yellow plastic lid bins and I dedicated one to all of the "dirty stuff" and then also double-wrap the gun and the tubes in gallon ziplocks. Usually have a box of HF garage gloves knocking about as well. 3k mile service intervals on that axle goes fast. :\

Thanks for the tip. No whooshing here. Sounds more like a woodpecker. I'll record it when I get a chance. Going to order a new pump and a repair kit today. The pumps are not that expensive to have on the shelf and one thing I've learned this year is parts on a shelf beats relying on the "supply chain". ;)

Those are the same ones I picked up. I have a big bag of them now. I've had a hard time getting them to seat and stay on if i'm honest.

So this is a topic near-and-dear to my heart. There are few things on this planet what send me into a blind rage but grease zerks are one. And the ones on the Dexter axle in particular. 1) I've not used one of the pressurized guns but perhaps that'd be a good New Year's gift to myself as the various hand pumps I've tried do not deliver satisfactory results without spiking blood pressure. 2) I replaced all of the zerks with various 90 or 45 degree zerks depending. Makes it easier to get a locking nozzle in there. 3) I ordered some snap on plastic caps to cover the zerks with the idea keeping them very clean might help them take grease. 4) I'm due for greasing this week and as prep work I hit everything down there with liberal amounts of Krud Kutter (Home Depot), a plastic brush, and a little bit of WD40 to remove the remaining film of crud. Then followed that up with a pressure wash blast from a few feet away. Looks like new down there now so hopefully the job won't be so bad once this rain stops.

Hey, folks. I'll admit I've yet to read the entire section(s) of the manual relevant to this topic. I'm about to go do that now. My water pump has been chattering a bit at the end of its cycle. Just for like the last second or so but its pretty loud and sounds like it could be less-than-healthy for the pump. I use the pump most of the time as opposed to relying on shore pressure so it occurred to me if might just need a rebuild/new seals. Another thought is that something between it and the accumulator (2019 E2) might be losing/have lost prime. Anybody have any tips?

Due to some shoddy wiring at a park last summer, I now rock EMS at the post as well as the one integrated in the trailer. My post EMS has an LED so that problem is solved. One of the reasons I'm thinking about mounting the LED for the integrated EMS near the thermo is because one could open the door and poke head in to see status. I suppose that might also be visible fromthe street side windows as well depending on glare. Not quite as convenient as opening the basement door but also would remain out of the elements that way.

Super! Thx!!

I think I'd prefer it was mounted next to the thermostat. Handy there but also would not blast a bunch of red light toward the bed. I suspect that would be a pretty straight-forward mod too (like the pantry).

I swear I ran across a thread about moving the Progressive LED display out of the attic and to somewhere easily visible but I'll be darned if I've been able to find it even leveraging a Google site search. Am I nuts? Does anyone happen to have a link? Or maybe advice on the topic?

Kinda of tangential to this thread but now that I've been FT for 1.5ish years and had some time to experiment... Attaching shelves and similar to the walls... You can see the dollar store baskets I've been using for shelves above. I've tried a couple of things to attach them to the walls with no real luck until(!) now. I've been through suction cups, industrial suction, cups, command strips, industrial velco, and a combo of velcro and command strips without much luck. Temperature cycling in the winter really seems to do a job on the suction cups and if you go anywhere bouncy then the velco + command strips option eventually fails as well. The area that has been hardest is above the sink + stove where there's lots of moisture and temp changes. A possible solution? Yes: "Nano Tape". It appears as though Nano Tape may just be a trademark name for a particular type of clear, double-sided, directional tape. Aka: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Nano+Tape&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 and in particular, the one I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=EZlifego&ref=bl_dp_s_web_0 There are some YT videos of this stuff with mixed reviews so let me tell you what I did. It appears surface prep is pretty important. 1. I roughed up the plastic on anything that I needed to attach to walls with a piece of fine grit sandpaper. 2. Cleaned and dried both the plastic basket/shelf and the wall with generic "windex". 3. Mounted the shelf. Press firmly! 4. Left it in place 24 hours before "loading" it up with the usual contents. So far both I've loaded the baskets up with sizeable salt and pepper shakers, spices, keys, pocket knives, cell phones etc to the point where I thought sure it would come off the wall the next time I pulled but everything has been holding up. No spills yet and it has been 2-3 months for the stuff above the sink.

Thanks, folks. I already have a Clam. Like I said, I use it as a motorcycle garage. Even with the sides (which I also have) it would be too cold/drafty in the winter. Also, most of them are not big enough or are just barely big enough to fit around a table. After someone reminded me that Clam makes thermal hubs for ice fishing and so I went down the trail for a bit and I'm seriously considering an Eskimo Outbreak because of the large door which goes all the way to the ground: https://geteskimo.com/products/outbreak-650xd This Vortex would be another option except that like most of the thermal hubs it uses a door configuration which is not very kid + motorcycle compatible: https://www.otteroutdoors.com/product/vortex-monster-lodge-hub/ Relative to the prices I've seen for "California rooms" which attach/supplement an awning, the prices on the thermal hubs is not so crazy. Probably the bigggest disadvantage of the thermal huts is they don't have much in the way of windows but that's to be expected given their intended use-case.

About 130" to play with for clearance of the vent on the water heater if I move it right up against the trailer. I hardly every run the fridge on LP so no worries there.

Oh, I totally forgot about their thermal huts. That's actually a great idea. Running outside with a tape measure right now to get the distance between the edge of the door and the vent for the water heater...

I have one of those I use as a motorcycle garage. :) Barring something square, I'm thinking that might be another option. I know they are super easy to up/down.

Various vendors seem to call them by various names. I'll check that user's history out. Thanks.

I'm just happy that a thread I started has eventually evolved to the topic of Shower Beers. ;)

Anybody bothered with an add-a-room/enclosure with their Elite II? Oddly enough, now that we are getting into colder weather I'm interested in enclosing the area just outside the door. You think it would make more sense to do so in the Summer but my daughter and I try to sit outside when we eat and it'd be nice to enclose that area and maybe even figure out a way to get some heat out there so we aren't forced inside completely. Thx

Yes, that's right. This particular park was built back in the early 70s. I suspect the 50A circuits are quite a bit newer. The park is also sort of sorted into 30A and 50A sections and I suspect the 50A section got a bit more design consideration. I guess it'd be interesting to plug into 30A on the post in a 50A section and compare the voltage versus that coming from the 50A plug and through the dog bone. Over the last year or so I've noticed that the scenario I've described is pretty common at many other parks as well...if I'm plugged into 30A the AC kicks off so frequently that its basically not effective but if I dogbone into 50A all is good.

The same here. I've only noticed that fan kicking on when the batteries are charging. It did *not* kick on when the temp was up above 100F. Now that the temp has dropped (thanks to clouds/smoke) I've not been noticing the smell. I will keep an eye on it though.

Hey, folks. QQ about something I've noticed this weekend... If I run the overhead fan in exhaust mode (while cooking on the range top, for instance) with the AC running I notice a smell that I will call "hot electricals". Sort of ozone-y, I guess. If I turn the exhaust fan off the smell goes away. I started pulling panels and sticking my face in the cubbies to identify the source and it does seem to be coming from the compartment with the Progressive unit. I also have the AC quickstart option on my trailer. Now, its been ~110F here for the last few days so I expect the electrical system is working hard. I'm hooked into 50A power with dog bone adapter (not a cheap-o adapter; it appears to be pretty well made) because 1) the AC runs a lot better (no power cuts && voltage is a lot more consistent) and 2) this park definitely has spots with low voltage as confirmed by some other folks with trailers with a less robust electrical setup. I've not been out to the post with the multimeter on this trip because I've done so in the past and know that some posts are better than others. I'm keeping a close watch on things but curious if others have had similar experience. My primary concern is cooking the compressor on the AC (low probability due to Progressive + 50A) and/or cooking the AC quickstart as I've read posts here from others about it giving off a smell when it is failing. Thoughts?

This may be an option : https://dancarrphotography.com/blog/2017/08/04/how-to-wire-goal-zero-solar-panel-zamp-connector/ Another project on the pile of projects...

Clarifying just in case anyone stumbles on this thread later... solar generator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CRQX9KW charge controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076631RKH/ suitcase: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3TC113/ That setup has two(?) issues with connecting to ZAMP system in Oliver: 1) Would require an 8mm-to-SAE adapter except ZAMP wires their SAE connectors backwards because "single vendor". 2) It's unclear that the external solar port on the Oliver passes through the on-board charge controller. Thanks, everyone.