nrvale0

Those are the same ones I picked up. I have a big bag of them now. I've had a hard time getting them to seat and stay on if i'm honest.

So this is a topic near-and-dear to my heart. There are few things on this planet what send me into a blind rage but grease zerks are one. And the ones on the Dexter axle in particular. 1) I've not used one of the pressurized guns but perhaps that'd be a good New Year's gift to myself as the various hand pumps I've tried do not deliver satisfactory results without spiking blood pressure. 2) I replaced all of the zerks with various 90 or 45 degree zerks depending. Makes it easier to get a locking nozzle in there. 3) I ordered some snap on plastic caps to cover the zerks with the idea keeping them very clean might help them take grease. 4) I'm due for greasing this week and as prep work I hit everything down there with liberal amounts of Krud Kutter (Home Depot), a plastic brush, and a little bit of WD40 to remove the remaining film of crud. Then followed that up with a pressure wash blast from a few feet away. Looks like new down there now so hopefully the job won't be so bad once this rain stops.

Hey, folks. I'll admit I've yet to read the entire section(s) of the manual relevant to this topic. I'm about to go do that now. My water pump has been chattering a bit at the end of its cycle. Just for like the last second or so but its pretty loud and sounds like it could be less-than-healthy for the pump. I use the pump most of the time as opposed to relying on shore pressure so it occurred to me if might just need a rebuild/new seals. Another thought is that something between it and the accumulator (2019 E2) might be losing/have lost prime. Anybody have any tips?

Due to some shoddy wiring at a park last summer, I now rock EMS at the post as well as the one integrated in the trailer. My post EMS has an LED so that problem is solved. One of the reasons I'm thinking about mounting the LED for the integrated EMS near the thermo is because one could open the door and poke head in to see status. I suppose that might also be visible fromthe street side windows as well depending on glare. Not quite as convenient as opening the basement door but also would remain out of the elements that way.

Super! Thx!!

I think I'd prefer it was mounted next to the thermostat. Handy there but also would not blast a bunch of red light toward the bed. I suspect that would be a pretty straight-forward mod too (like the pantry).

I swear I ran across a thread about moving the Progressive LED display out of the attic and to somewhere easily visible but I'll be darned if I've been able to find it even leveraging a Google site search. Am I nuts? Does anyone happen to have a link? Or maybe advice on the topic?

Kinda of tangential to this thread but now that I've been FT for 1.5ish years and had some time to experiment... Attaching shelves and similar to the walls... You can see the dollar store baskets I've been using for shelves above. I've tried a couple of things to attach them to the walls with no real luck until(!) now. I've been through suction cups, industrial suction, cups, command strips, industrial velco, and a combo of velcro and command strips without much luck. Temperature cycling in the winter really seems to do a job on the suction cups and if you go anywhere bouncy then the velco + command strips option eventually fails as well. The area that has been hardest is above the sink + stove where there's lots of moisture and temp changes. A possible solution? Yes: "Nano Tape". It appears as though Nano Tape may just be a trademark name for a particular type of clear, double-sided, directional tape. Aka: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Nano+Tape&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 and in particular, the one I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=EZlifego&ref=bl_dp_s_web_0 There are some YT videos of this stuff with mixed reviews so let me tell you what I did. It appears surface prep is pretty important. 1. I roughed up the plastic on anything that I needed to attach to walls with a piece of fine grit sandpaper. 2. Cleaned and dried both the plastic basket/shelf and the wall with generic "windex". 3. Mounted the shelf. Press firmly! 4. Left it in place 24 hours before "loading" it up with the usual contents. So far both I've loaded the baskets up with sizeable salt and pepper shakers, spices, keys, pocket knives, cell phones etc to the point where I thought sure it would come off the wall the next time I pulled but everything has been holding up. No spills yet and it has been 2-3 months for the stuff above the sink.

Thanks, folks. I already have a Clam. Like I said, I use it as a motorcycle garage. Even with the sides (which I also have) it would be too cold/drafty in the winter. Also, most of them are not big enough or are just barely big enough to fit around a table. After someone reminded me that Clam makes thermal hubs for ice fishing and so I went down the trail for a bit and I'm seriously considering an Eskimo Outbreak because of the large door which goes all the way to the ground: https://geteskimo.com/products/outbreak-650xd This Vortex would be another option except that like most of the thermal hubs it uses a door configuration which is not very kid + motorcycle compatible: https://www.otteroutdoors.com/product/vortex-monster-lodge-hub/ Relative to the prices I've seen for "California rooms" which attach/supplement an awning, the prices on the thermal hubs is not so crazy. Probably the bigggest disadvantage of the thermal huts is they don't have much in the way of windows but that's to be expected given their intended use-case.

About 130" to play with for clearance of the vent on the water heater if I move it right up against the trailer. I hardly every run the fridge on LP so no worries there.

Oh, I totally forgot about their thermal huts. That's actually a great idea. Running outside with a tape measure right now to get the distance between the edge of the door and the vent for the water heater...

I have one of those I use as a motorcycle garage. :) Barring something square, I'm thinking that might be another option. I know they are super easy to up/down.

Various vendors seem to call them by various names. I'll check that user's history out. Thanks.

I'm just happy that a thread I started has eventually evolved to the topic of Shower Beers. ;)

Anybody bothered with an add-a-room/enclosure with their Elite II? Oddly enough, now that we are getting into colder weather I'm interested in enclosing the area just outside the door. You think it would make more sense to do so in the Summer but my daughter and I try to sit outside when we eat and it'd be nice to enclose that area and maybe even figure out a way to get some heat out there so we aren't forced inside completely. Thx

Yes, that's right. This particular park was built back in the early 70s. I suspect the 50A circuits are quite a bit newer. The park is also sort of sorted into 30A and 50A sections and I suspect the 50A section got a bit more design consideration. I guess it'd be interesting to plug into 30A on the post in a 50A section and compare the voltage versus that coming from the 50A plug and through the dog bone. Over the last year or so I've noticed that the scenario I've described is pretty common at many other parks as well...if I'm plugged into 30A the AC kicks off so frequently that its basically not effective but if I dogbone into 50A all is good.

The same here. I've only noticed that fan kicking on when the batteries are charging. It did *not* kick on when the temp was up above 100F. Now that the temp has dropped (thanks to clouds/smoke) I've not been noticing the smell. I will keep an eye on it though.

Hey, folks. QQ about something I've noticed this weekend... If I run the overhead fan in exhaust mode (while cooking on the range top, for instance) with the AC running I notice a smell that I will call "hot electricals". Sort of ozone-y, I guess. If I turn the exhaust fan off the smell goes away. I started pulling panels and sticking my face in the cubbies to identify the source and it does seem to be coming from the compartment with the Progressive unit. I also have the AC quickstart option on my trailer. Now, its been ~110F here for the last few days so I expect the electrical system is working hard. I'm hooked into 50A power with dog bone adapter (not a cheap-o adapter; it appears to be pretty well made) because 1) the AC runs a lot better (no power cuts && voltage is a lot more consistent) and 2) this park definitely has spots with low voltage as confirmed by some other folks with trailers with a less robust electrical setup. I've not been out to the post with the multimeter on this trip because I've done so in the past and know that some posts are better than others. I'm keeping a close watch on things but curious if others have had similar experience. My primary concern is cooking the compressor on the AC (low probability due to Progressive + 50A) and/or cooking the AC quickstart as I've read posts here from others about it giving off a smell when it is failing. Thoughts?

This may be an option : https://dancarrphotography.com/blog/2017/08/04/how-to-wire-goal-zero-solar-panel-zamp-connector/ Another project on the pile of projects...

Clarifying just in case anyone stumbles on this thread later... solar generator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CRQX9KW charge controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076631RKH/ suitcase: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3TC113/ That setup has two(?) issues with connecting to ZAMP system in Oliver: 1) Would require an 8mm-to-SAE adapter except ZAMP wires their SAE connectors backwards because "single vendor". 2) It's unclear that the external solar port on the Oliver passes through the on-board charge controller. Thanks, everyone.

This reminds me of Apple hardware versus everyone else. Are there no standards? And where there are can you please follow them! 😉 Thanks for the info. I guess I'll likely have to give up on the idea of having a single suitcase for all use-cases.

The controller is an add-on installed in the "generator". I was hoping to carry the panel back and forth between my Oliver and my overland rig. Sounds like that'll require some creative wiring at the least. Glad I asked! Thanks for the info!

Howdy, folks. I did a quick forum search and didn't get any results so perhaps its time for a topic? Anybody hooked up a Goal Zero panel to the ZAMP controller using the 8mm-to-SAE adapter here: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1366342-REG/goal_zero_98063_8mm_to_sae_connector.html/DFF/d10-v21-t1-x851970/SID/EZ Is it safe/smart to assume the ZAMP controller is "downstream" of the external solar connector and will thus do its thing for this non-ZAMP panel?

Not sure if you mean in the current incarnation but attached a pic. Nothing fancy...some 3M product basically. May never ever ever come off of there though. 😉 I've been joking that I'm just going to lay the stainless over top of it instead of spending hours with a heat gun and plastic scraper. At the time I just wanted to break up some of the white.

Ok, so I'll finally contribute to my own thread. Thanks for the suggestions, folks. I don't have much to add except perhaps re the closet. I was on my way down to LA to spend some time with a buddy with a 3D printer and a wood shop when govt lockdowns started. The plan was to prototype some free-standing shelves for the closet. So that project is on hold for the time being. In the meantime, I picked up some hanging shelves from Amazon. They stunk and ripped out after a matter of weeks. I kept the cloth drawers and ordered a different set of hanging shelves with metal loops and that has worked well for clothes storage. What you can't see is that there's plenty of space behind them and back there I have vacuum bags full of out-of-season clothes, a small steam cleaner for the upholstery, and other odds-and-ends. It's a pain to get behind the hanging shelves -- basically have to remove one -- but then that's why I store infrequently used stuff back there. The baskets are just dollar store finds and I find they keep cleaning supplies etc from moving around while on the road. I also put up a command strip hook on the left-hand side and that's where I hang shower stuff once its dry. Similar command strip hooks in the bathroom for cleaning brushes etc. Generally I prefer copious use of command strips to suction cups. Even the command strips need fairly regular "encouragement" to stay put. I think Oliver is leaving money on the table by not coming up with a modular closet organizer and a better solution for attaching baskets and stuff to the walls. This year I'm planning to replace the decorative back splash I put up behind the range with a large sheet of magnet-capable stainless steel. Maybe one sheet of solid stainless for using various magnetic spice containers and knife holders and another section with some sort of pegboard-like holes for hanging shelves etc.