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nrvale0

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Everything posted by nrvale0

  1. Seems like we have some folks around these parts with a lot of experience. Anybody ever owned one of the GMC motorcoaches from the 70s with the Olds powertrain? If so, what're your thoughts aside from "Well, its a 40yro coach." Particularly, how do they compare in terms of storage and table top space compared to your Oliver? There are a couple up for sale around my area and I may pay a few visits.
  2. I was under the impression that you were not supposed to run the AC off of the batteries because they wires aren''t quite spec'ed for that sort of a load?
  3. Sitting here with guy lines ratcheted to a picnic table to keep the awning from peeling back. Thanks for the post about the Carefree poles. Might order some this weekend.
  4. I took my Oliver to an RV wash a couple of weeks ago and they must have dislodged the awning end cap because its gone on Walk About. Other than direct order from Dometic, anybody know where to source them? I've had no luck with Amazon, Ebay, nor campinworld.com.
  5. Just looping back on this to confirm a fix until I can get a cap...popping the plug of the pigtail against my hand a half dozen times was enough to dislodge/dry the contacts in the plug and turn the lights out. It looks to me like the housing on the plug is fine but I went ahead and sealed it with silicon anyway. Thx for the advice folks. I probably should have known this one from working on wet, muddy, old dirt bikes. 😕
  6. Wow, that was fast and enthusiastic response! I guess, like me, everyone is locked up and bored! 😉 I do always make sure the pigtail is facing downward and I have made a pretty regular habit of cleaning it and shooting with di-electric grease but I will give that another try. Will also make sure there's no ability for water to run down the wire and through the housing. My last trip to current location was definitely wet and dirty so it seems like a distinct possibility that something might be knocking around in there. Given all the stores being on lockdown, I'll likely just seal it off with a ziplock and rubber band until I can figure out if I can get something a bit less janky. Thx, everyone! I will let you know if it continues to be a problem.
  7. Perhaps someone else has seen this. It has me flummoxed. A handful of times in the last year I've gone outside at night and noticed that the brake lights on the trailer are on -- faint but on -- even though the trailer is chocked + x-chocked and disconnected from the tow vehicle. The last time it happened I had a theory it was that the brake safety wire had fallen off the tongue and the weight of the carabiner was pulling the mechanism to engage the emergency brake. After placing the biner back on the tongue and putting a little slack in the wire the lights did turn off by the next evening, however, I sit here now with the passenger-side light (and only that light!) faintly lit for like 2 days now. Thoughts? I don't see anything in the manual(s) on this topic.
  8. Hey, folks. Just a quick tip about a situation I ran into this week. Symptoms were: - no working AC power outlets and oven down when disconnected from shore power despite the inverter LED being green when enabled - working AC power when connected to shore power - no error codes on the inverter LED in the attic (status "E 0") I checked the GFCI in the dinette area, toggled all of the breakers in the fuse box under the dinette, and checked the fuses + fuse block with multimeter, and then called Oliver Service. Solution: It turns out the inverter (street side, under the bed, and mounted against the wall of the walkway) has a built-in GFCI which had tripped. Simple matter of resetting it. I read through the manuals and never noticed any mention of this GFCI but its possible I overlooked it in my haste. Big thanks to Jason @ Oliver Service for his help!
  9. FWIW, I found the Dee Zee linked from somewhere here on the forum and it looks a LOT smaller in the pictures than it does in real life. Thing is huge. I'm going to roll today and when I do I'm going to jack knife the rig in a parking lot so I can set the DZ up on the tongue to check fitment/clearance. I might have to return the darn thing tbh. As near as I can tell, they don't make a smaller box : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OCTKEA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I tow with a 3500 Express van so I don't have to worry about tailgate though even the doors might be an issue with the size of that box.
  10. @MontanaOliver There we go. I was thinking about some sort of wire mesh just to keep the platform/tray from collecting dirt. Those fasteners look pretty perfect. That grip looks like it would eat the Dee Zee in no time but I can put some horse mat or similar between the mesh and the box or just find some less aggressive grip. Thanks for the link to the fasteners!
  11. I know this is an ancient thread but I thought I would throw in on this one since I've been towing for about a year with an Express 3500 extended 6L + 6spd. It's been no-drama situation. I looked at the Transits too but to get to the desired rating involved, IMO, pushing that platform to its ragged edge. They really are light duty trucks. Sure would be nice to have that big "euro" box though. Hoping GM revs the Express platform soon but I'm hearing it's still several years out.
  12. I picked up one of the DeeZee plastic molded boxes. Like others, not interested in carry much weight up here...just chocks and stuff. The box is bigger than I expected and when I placed it on the tongue to check fitment I don't think I'm comfortable using just the self-tapping screws to drill through the glass and into the Al frame. I'd much rather prefer to put together a metal "platform" and then U-bolt that platform to the frame for a more rattle-proof setup. Anyone been able to put some sort of trustworthy attachment together using off-the-shelf stuff from Fastenal/Graybar/etc etc? I'd prefer not to custom fabricate anything just out of lack of time as well as interest in making this "field serviceable" via most hardware stores. Thx
  13. Ooh! That's getting somewhere. That suction cup hatch fan is really close. Too bad its $250(!). I think I'm going to try modifying the USB fan I posted earlier in this thread. Suction cup mounting where it can reach a power port and a latch to attach an external battery where it cannot.
  14. This has never appeared in search but popped up on the sidebar after your suggestion, @topgun2 : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q1GWVX5/ref=twister_B07R5HF9NP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Getting pretty close. I could probably figure out a way to attach a suction cup...
  15. That's getting there. I'm hoping to find something with wire shroud. I have a plugged unit now that's a little too big for what I like which I use as supplemental air movement in the kitchen area and bathroom to keep things dry. Not so much worried about keeping cool with it.
  16. I've been looking for a small white fan with suction cup mount (possibly even USB-charged) for moving around the trailer for various purposes and haven't had much luck finding anything via the usual suspect (Amazon, Walmart, Target, dollar stores). Anybody found one? Most of the ones for use on a desk in an office are black or are huge. I'd like to be able to pop it on the underside of the light rails and above the kitchen area as needed. Thx
  17. So, just to close the loop on this one... Was able to get to the zerks on top of the axle by crawling underneath the next time I was on asphalt. Definitely a lot easier than trying to get to those zerks with the wheels in place and crouching. As to non-leaking grease guns...I just double seal in ZipLocs and put a paper towel over the coupler and attach with a rubber band.
  18. Oh, also, @rideandfly, at least on my '19 the zerks are facing outwards. I replaced them all with 45s and 90s in addition to them facing out.
  19. Hey, folks. Thanks for the ideas. Particularly on raising the front axle. Don't know why I didn't think about that at the time time except that I was probably distracted thinking about ways to NOT lay on the ground due to those goat's head thorns. 😉 I have a LocknLube coupler but it doesn't have a 90deg on it. The LnL actually works against me in trying to get to that top zerk because it extends the length of what is non-flexible at the end of the flexible hose. Not sure if the 90 is worth the $60 but if I can't find another option... I'll be rolling again tomorrow so I'm going to try to stop on some asphalt and use the levelling blocks to see if that makes up the difference. Will let you know. As to greasing intervals, yes, the Oliver folks said 3k miles. I'm a bit over on that equalizer zerk due to not noticing it on my previous go-around.
  20. I installed 45 and 90 degree zerks all over the Dexter axle today and, let me tell you, what a difference! Mostly... There's a zerk on the top of the axle mounting assembly -- I think that might be the equalizer -- which through no bending of flexible grease gun hose, permutation of coupler attachment, cursing, and warping of space-time was I able to access. It looks like they only way to get access to that zerk is to crawl under the trailer and come at it from that angle but the campsite was infested with these guys: Curious if anyone has come up with a clever method for getting to those zerks without taking off wheels or crawling around under the trailer. thx
  21. Hey, everyone. I just wanted to thank everyone for keeping this thread going! I've not had a chance to comment in the thread -- heck, I've not had a chance to read the thread in detail -- because I'm just finishing up getting the last of stuff sold off or in storage for going full-time. Have spent several stints of 7/10 days, and longer, in the trailer already. As of tomorrow morning I'm officially full-time though! I will say that I've used several of the ideas posted over the last few months and made a few tweaks. I'm not quite happy with the arrangement I have now but I'm finding I also have been using maybe 50-75% of the storage available in the trailer (It's just me.) so perhaps I'm not going to have to be as clever at some of this stuff as I thought. I'm helped by having a large van as tow vehicle so some of the stuff others might keep inside I have in the van. Anyway, thanks again! Looking forward to catching up here soon and perhaps I'll even throw in some of my own successes.
  22. Re the quoted lifespan of a wrap, I've had longer conversations with some folks here in CA. They didn't make a distinction whether it would be the wrap or the adhesive which would age less well but they did say that they estimate on the conservative side assuming folks will be traveling around RV parks in the West where things are not always well shaded and sun can be intense. My take, even if you choose a color which will last 5 years before it needs re-done that's still a lot of money for what it is. I'm with those who say painting is probably the best option. My dad built and raced his own fiberglass racecars for years and he always painted them himself. He was careful with the surface prep, was very particular about the primer, and was cost-for-value minded on the paint and they always looked great. Of course he changed colors every ... maybe 5 years ... and the car wasn't sitting out in the sun unless it was at the track so YMMV. Man, I sure would like a flat dark earth brown TT and TV to blend into chaparral, sand, etc out West but I'll definitely have to save up for the paint job. Not something I care to undertake myself. Nasty stuff.
  23. So this is a topic I've been investigating lately... Quotes I've had for a wrap have ranged from 3k to 10k for a matte wrap. Varying mostly by geography ( high: CA, low: Ohio ). Universally, I've been told I should only expect 2 to 3 years max out of top sections due to sun/UV. So a wrap seems like a non-viable solution unless you REALLY need a color.
  24. This was shared with me today. Thought it made a decent post here...
  25. Hey, Mike. I'll check my '19 tonight to see if I get the same result.
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