Hokieman
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Posts posted by Hokieman
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41 minutes ago, mountainoliver said:
Because my lithium batteries don’t require ventilation (I don’t know if all lithium batteries are similar) I sealed the ventilation holes in the battery compartment door and insulated the door with 1/2 inch thick closed cell neoprene foam.
Agreed, LifePOH batteries do not require ventilation as they do not generate gas. My comment was intended to clear up what might be a misunderstanding by some readers. Lead-acid batteries generate gases during charging which may vent into the battery compartment, these are corrosive and flammable. That’s what the external vents in the door are for, and Oliver is required to put them there to meet RVIA standards. SeaDawg recommended sealing the external vents, which many of us have done, along with extra insulation. Venting into the basement isn’t required, as you have experienced, but it may help in temperature extremes, as many previous threads have discussed. For example, parking with the street side in full sun in Arizona in the summer @ 115F ambient. All I have done is cut two 2” holes in the sides of the battery box. I’ve noticed it is cooler inside the battery box on very hot days with the street side in the sun.
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10 hours ago, Danno and Donna said:
I need to re-check but I think the manufacture indicated no venting necessary
I’m assuming Seadawg suggested venting to interior for temperature stabilization. Many owners have vented battery compartments to the basement, and some to the inner cabin. This helps the batteries operate closer to their optimum range, not too hot, nor too cold. You’ll notice a significant difference when monitoring your battery temps.
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2 hours ago, jd1923 said:
I cannot believe OTT installed these valves! The opening in only 1/4" WT*!
Thanks for pointing this out! In my recent repairs on my water heater I did not remove this valve, so didn’t know. I will be going back in and replacing with higher flow valves.
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On 10/25/2023 at 7:10 AM, topgun2 said:
I view Sharkbite fittings as an emergency plumbing part.
I keep a couple of 3 foot lengths of Pex and a small assortment of Sharkbite fittings in my Ollie - just in case.
I also carry some spare Pex A tubing & a few Sharkbite fittings. Last trip we lost water pressure after a long day of highway driving. A look outside revealed water draining out one of the scupper holes. A look under the curb side bunk showed a broken plastic elbow on the bottom connection of the Suburban water heater. I did not have the correct Sharkbite fitting on hand (I needed a 1/2” el), but found a Home Depot 10 miles away open until 9 pm. The repair was made quickly, and camping continued. When I got back home I re-plumbed both the bottom and top water heater fittings with simple 1/2” brass els, as the plastic elbows are not the best, and they restrict the water flow when compared to similar 1/2” brass. I used Sharkbite copper crimp rings and a compression tool I already own. I’m familiar with the benefits of Pex A tubing & fittings used in residential plumbing. Since OTT used Pex B and copper crimp rings throughout my trailer, I did the same. It’s easy to do, and it’s the most common DIY method. These Pex B parts are readily available at most good hardware stores. Some time ago, I removed the restrictive plastic T-fitting used for the flush toilet water supply under the bath sink. I removed that supply line as well as the valve behind the toilet. Since I have a Natures Head toilet, the water supply line and valve is not needed, and is another item to winterize. I also removed the black tank flush linens and vacuum break fitting. The result of replacing the restrictive plastic water supply fittings is a noticeable improvement in water flow, especially in the shower.
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On 7/24/2023 at 8:03 PM, Hokieman said:
On the Oliver Trailer Owners Facebook page today, Edward Stroetz wrote that at this years rally, Jason T from OTT advised all the wheel nut torque should be 100 ft-lbs. I was not at the rally, and don’t know who Jason T is. Can anyone that attended the rally confirm? The 2023 manual online continues to show discrepancies.
Unfortunately I did not get a response to my question about what was allegedly said by Jason T or maybe Jason E at the rally about torque specs. Perhaps it didn’t happen. I’m writing this response because some new readers may not have seen this older thread, and if not, I encourage them to go back and read as it is a very important safety issue for all. Several of us ME’s including Geronimo John and @mjotto did some research and the findings are in this thread. GJ and I turned in Service Tickets on the issue, read by Jason E., and GJ reported back on it. GJ was able to persuade OTT to reduce the torque value, which is better, but they apparently didn’t want to go lower for reasons unknown. They updated the newer manuals, but made errors, and did not send out a service advisory to those of us with older trailers. I have been using 100 ft-lbs and 45-50 psi in my trailer tires since Mile 1, which I understand contradicts OTT instructions. I periodically check my torque wrench calibration (I have several) and never use lubricant on the threads.
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6 hours ago, topgun2 said:
It was probably actually Jason Essary (Service Manager).
I figured it was Jason E, not Jason T, whom many of us know.
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Camping World description for Dometic Freshjet 3 states that Dometic heat strip accessory can be added with Universal ADB. It also mentions that Dometic SmartStart can be added to allow 2000W generators to be used. As already mentioned, the unit bolts right on without mods to the trailer body, uses the existing condensate drain lines, ADB, and thermostat, and is very quiet. Extensive dealer service network. I don’t need the heat strip as I use a small portable heater when on shore power. This checks all the boxes for me. Comments?
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This previous thread has the link to the Oliver video plus a link to John Davies excellent documentation of the process
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21 hours ago, Dean Rowland said:
Searched around some, can't find this so if there's a previous post on this please let me know.
This topic has been discussed, and several owners have made this modification successfully. I did a quick search and came across this link. I suggest you consult with Service to ask if and where the wires are placed on your specific model. Oliver has made changes in their process over time.
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9 hours ago, Townesw said:
I’m not saying my hull moves on the frame, I’m saying my hull flexes.
OK I understand what you mean now. My comments not just intended for you, some seemed to suggest the body may be flexible mourned to frame. Just responding to your request to give you feedback. I could not get mine to flex like what I see in the video. Maybe my Jack blocks are absorbing the shock, might look different if I was on concrete like in the video with a wood support.
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21 hours ago, Townesw said:
Has anyone else looked at their Oliver and seen this movement? Surely hulls 92 and 313 aren’t the only ones that exhibit this condition?
I see no movement of the body relative to the frame on our #797. Considering how the body mounts to the frame (see @ScubaRX comments), I’d be concerned some bolts are loose. I assume Oliver is not mounting the bodies any differently on later models. I’m camping for 2 weeks on gravel, and in addition to the 3 stabilizers down, I’ve got 2 Camco 3 ton jacks placed firmly under the frame at the forward Jack Points, and X-Chocks between the wheels on both sides, so 5 stabilization points in all, not counting the 4 wheels. This keeps the trailer fairly stable, especially when going up and down the stairs. I do not use the 3 stabilizers to lift the trailer. They are firmly placed on jack blocks but just enough to stabilize the trailer motion. I think there is some confusion about your question, perhaps they have not watched the video carefully. Of course the trailer moves quite a lot when moving around inside, but the body is not designed to move relative to the frame. I’d be interested in reading what Oliver Service would say about this.
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John, Many thanks for your contributions & common sense mods to make the best trailer even better. I am grateful you spent countless hours documenting your mods, your tech library will be a valued knowledge base for Oliver owners for many years to come.
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On the Oliver Trailer Owners Facebook page today, Edward Stroetz wrote that at this years rally, Jason T from OTT advised all the wheel nut torque should be 100 ft-lbs. I was not at the rally, and don’t know who Jason T is. Can anyone that attended the rally confirm? The 2023 manual online continues to show discrepancies.
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57 minutes ago, ScubaRx said:
would not pack worth a tinker's dam
Yep, my main complaint about the Weber Q. The grease is always oozing into the drip tray while traveling, and sometimes gets messy when moving it’ around. The Blackstone griddle cleans up easily, packs much smaller, and has more cooking options. I’m probably going to carry that one most of the time going forward.
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Most camp stoves will require the removal of the pressure regulator as the Oliver gas pressure is already reduced at the regulator mounted at the propane tanks. Lots of YouTube’s and articles on this. See this forum link for more details.
I have a Weber Q1000, with a Torjik conversion kit. I also have a Blackstone 17” griddle, with a low pressure hose connector. I take one or the other, not both, but they both work well. And last but not least, I have a 30 year old Coleman Classic that’s been used countless times. I’ve not found a safe low pressure conversion for it nor any reference from anyone that uses one connected it to their Oliver via the low pressure QC. We often take the Coleman along for cooking outside with pots and skillets. I use small disposable propane bottles or a 20lb tank if I have room for it.
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We camp with our female Labrador retriever. She is not a typical pet in that she is an ADA certified guide dog in training, legal to take in public places, airlines, public transportation, restaurants, etc. She is well behaved and does not bark. We never leave her unattended inside the trailer, she goes everywhere with us. We take her on extended hikes on dog friendly trails (she can go a lot farther than most humans), she carries her own water in a dog pack. She swims when and where we allow her, and chills out when needed. One limitation is that my wife and I cannot go on bike rides together. One of us stays behind with the dog and reads or putters around, not a bad compromise. Outdoors, we have a long nylon tether to the steps, and a large mat to keep her out of the dirt and away from pine cones, acorns, sticks, and fire pits. Caution should be used when tethering to keep camp chairs and tables out of their zone. If they get their tether wrapped around a chair or table and see a squirrel or another distraction, a lot of damage and injuries can occur, especially with outdoor stoves or grills. We keep her out from under the trailer for same reason, and they can get grease on them from the suspension. We have an outdoor water bowl within reach. Indoors we keep the indoor water bowl in the bare shower pan because she is a sloppy drinker. We mop up after with quick drying microfiber “dog” towels. We feed her the same way, in the shower. When we take a shower, we just set the bowl near the closet door temporarily. First we clean her bowl to get the water hot to the spray nozzle. Our dog is not allowed on beds or dinette seats. We have a thick fuzzy microfiber dog bed that stays in between the twin beds. At bedtime, I can reach down easily and pet and talk to her. The rug goes to the coin laundry with us about once/week when we wash our clothes. When we get out of our bunks, we have to be very cautious we don’t step on her. She has come to trust us and does not move. We don’t wear shoes inside our trailer, so it’s easier to not step on the dogs paws and tail. We sweep the floor several times/day, and if we have shore power, we have a small Shark vac. When walking her, I always carry a can of potent pepper spray to protect her from negligent dog owners that don’t keep their dogs on leashes, or if they do, cannot control them. I have had some close encounters with aggressive breeds. It would be a lot less hassle to not have a dog with us camping, but she’s part of the family, so leaving her home is not an option for us.
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Newer trailers have 2 rubber covered toggle switches, behind the basement door, near the outdoor shower. They might be good quality, don’t know, but mine work well.
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12 hours ago, John E Davies said:
That is irritating, has anyone asked for a wiring diagram?
Many of us with models newer than 2019 have formally requested wiring diagrams from OTT, with no success. It’s been discussed in the forum several times. I checked the last wiring diagram I can find in Oliver University, the 2019 manual. It shows separate switches and wires for street side porch and entry porch side. I only have one switch on my 2021, turns both sides on. The porch lights are rarely used because of this limitation.
On 6/6/2023 at 11:34 PM, mossemi said:I’ll see if I can find a wiring diagram for a 2022 LE2 and work on a plan.
Let us know if you can locate one. Before I go poking around behind that switch panel, I’ll just be patient. I’m confident one of you electrical experts will develop a solution.
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On 2/6/2022 at 8:11 PM, ShallowGal said:
Or, if you have a dog - or dogs - you can clean & refill their water bowl while waiting on hot water to reach the faucet.
This is our method also. The dog water bowl stays in the shower pan because our two full grown labs are sloppy drinkers. We clean it and set it outside on the floor before showers.
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7 hours ago, MAX Burner said:
Try some CRC Brake Parts Cleaner
Use caution with this spray around painted surfaces as well as yourself. It contains acetone & heptane.
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9 hours ago, Wayfinder said:
What would you experts do here?
This link will provide you feedback from several experienced owners, as well as supporting evidence from a few major tire manufacturers including Michelin, Cooper & Goodyear. They all show similar results as your table. Oliver has reduced their recommendations from 80 psi to 55 psi in 2022 & 2023 models. As you know, those newer models weigh about the same as your 2016, depending on options and loading. If you are unsure about choosing a tire pressure, certainly you are safe with what Oliver recommends.
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7 hours ago, Geronimo John said:
My note to Jason was to update the other location where the 120 torque is STILL posted.
Apologies for drifting from original post, but this is sorta like the tire pressure issue. Oliver reduced the tire pressure in new LE2 models from 80 psi to 55 psi but didn’t officially inform the rest of us. My Service Ticket request for a replacement sticker was politely declined. Regardless of the 80 psi sticker on my trailer, I’ve been running 50 psi on the Interstate from Day 1, could probably go to 45psi with good results. I’ve learned a lot on this forum. Thank you!
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4 hours ago, LeBill said:
I was referring to small twigs and leaves and seed pods being rolled up into the awning, without a ladder, short of parking next to a picnic table, there's not an easy way to brush it off.
Yup, I get that, it’s a hassle. I stand on a picnic table, or my truck tailgate if needed, and brush it off with a light broom. Usually most of the stuff seems to blow off unless it’s wet. If you do take the awning off, you could go with a lightweight tent awning such as the MoonShade XL. I got mine for $445 in a Kickstarter sale. My plan is to use it on the street side, since I don’t have the optional awning on that side.
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7 hours ago, Geronimo John said:
I have sent a note to Jason about this. I recall it being reduced.
GJ
The value was reduced to 110 ft-lbs GJ, thanks to your previous communications to Oliver. See link.
That snip from my older post was taken out of context. It was a direct quote from the 2021 manual. I personally have been running 100 ft-lbs since Day 1 with never a loose wheel nut.
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Simple AGM to Lithium Conversion question(s)
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
I would be happy to oblige, but I parked the trailer in storage this morning and then drove home about 600 miles away. I’ll try to remember to get pics when I go get it in a few months. I recall I cut one hole (used 2” holesaw) in the same spot on aft wall where a battery cable had been routed through but now unused, while doing my Battleborn battery install. The other 2” hole is on the forward wall, down lower I think. I also cut several other 2” holes in bulkheads throughout the basement on street side and rear compartments to facilitate convective flow. I’m still brainstorming future plans to introduce warm cabin air to basement in extreme cold, which might include small, quiet 12v blower fans. We camped several nights this winter out West in low teens with no freezing problems or battery issues. Last night in mountains it was 24. So I’m wondering if I need to worry much about additional mods, as I’m not really planning on camping any colder than that.