Hokieman
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Posts posted by Hokieman
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My wife found the following post on “Oliver Trailer Owners” Facebook page 2 days ago. Seems like good feedback to your questions.
“Ann Barklow 8/18/2022: We have almost completed our cross country trip. We left on June 28 from South Carolina all the way to Bainbridge Island, WA and then back to South Carolina. We will arrive home this Sunday after four days in Tennessee. We had reservations all the way to Washington and on the way home we did not. Even though there is great advantages to having reservations we both enjoyed the spontaneity of traveling without. We never had trouble getting in anywhere and on weekends we did call a day in advance to make one just in case. One day we set out driving through Bighorn mountains in WY and even though we had planned at least six hours of driving we only made it an hour and a half and found an amazing campground and stayed three days. One camp ground we found later on was apparently abandoned so we had it to ourselves and it was beautiful. A little eerie and I wouldn’t have stayed there alone but it was an adventure. So my research is over and though we will still reserve sites we definitely liked it without better. Hull 1010 with over 8,000 towed miles since February.”
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Reminder that replying to the OP is useful, however it is not responding to the poll. Please participate in the poll by checking the box and submitting your vote. It will be useful to all if we can see where we are, and the results might be beneficial to Oliver, if we can get enough data points.
14 hours ago, John E Davies said:IF YOUR PLACARD IS DIFFERENT FROM THIS PLEASE POST A PICTURE.
The placard decal on 2021 Hull 797 is exactly the same as JD’s 2017. I’ve already voted above, but I run 45psi, check frequently with digital temp gun. I have a TPMS. I have tested the tire pressure several times by running them up to 60 psi for awhile on the highway, measuring temps, then airing down to 45, and checking temps again at next rest stop. No noticeable temp increases. If you are reluctant to reduce psi this low, you could try this test yourself. If your tires do not increase in temperature, your data confirms you have made the right choice. And more importantly (as JD pointed out), it is in accordance with the tire OEM. Based on JD’s reported good performance, I’m going to try lowering to 42 psi. Running this low may not be for everyone, as we all run at different weights, speeds, and road conditions.
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One of my hose fittings came unscrewed during a campsite setup. I didn’t have the tool on hand so I hand tightened as best I could. I found the 2018 post and ordered this socket on Amazon (same as recommended by @ScubaRX above).
Water hose connection socketOn 8/11/2022 at 12:05 PM, John E Davies said:There is no need to buy an L shaped wrench, just get a square drive bit and use your 1/2' breaker bar, Oliver even includes a bar in the spares kit for the wheel nuts.
Another use for the Oliver supplied 1/2” breaker bar is a socket for removing the water heater anode from the standard Suburban water heater.
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On 8/10/2022 at 10:02 AM, John E Davies said:
Let’s keep our numbers straight, please. There have been small annual increases but almost always they have included some additional standard features.
The base price for my 2021 Elite 2 was $57,500, ordered September 2020. I made a list of the LE2 base prices that folks have posted in this thread.
2017 $48,500
2018 $54,100
2019 $53,900
2020 $55,000
2021 $57,500
2022 $65,000
2023 $73,500
Unfortunately, you cannot use these base prices alone to do a cost increase analysis. As John D pointed out, there were many popular optional features in previous models, that were included in the base price as standard in subsequent years. If you wanted to do a good analysis, you’d have to dissect the build sheet on all model years and factor it into the cost. I’m happy with my decision to buy an Oliver.
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Thank you Steph & Dud! I really appreciate posts like this one, because it gives me an opportunity to figure out a better solution before I experience a similar problem. I’m disappointed that it is necessary, but it comes with owning any RV (or boat), even an Oliver. John Davies mentioned the shortcomings of AC Romex and the residential junction boxes in a recent post. This prompted me to make a note on my task list to inspect all AC wiring that is accessible, and improve the installations if feasible. This post confirms that concern. I did a quick check on RV best practices and came up with a good article and reference to marine codes.
WHAT Type OF WIRE IS NEEDED FOR 120V OUTLETS In a Camper?
ALL wire in a camper must be stranded wire. This includes circuits for 120V outlets. Wires in a camper must be stranded wire because solid core wire (like the Romex used in the walls of your house) will, when subjected to the vibrations of rattling down the road, will work harden and break over time. For this reason, solid core wire like Romex is EXPLICITLY forbidden in marine applications (boats) by ABYC E-11.
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We have left our awning seal installed for same reasons. It rains often in the Southeast, daily this time of year. My trailer has drain channels in the awning brackets, so not too much stuff collects up there. I get up top periodically to clean the solar panels anyway, so no problem cleaning the ditch created by the awning. The new J-channel strip Oliver is using now looks like it might be an improvement. I look forward to reading some feedback on how well it works.
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3 hours ago, PapaBiker said:
I’d be interested in more detail if you have time. Thanks.
My trailer is in storage about 500 miles from home, so I can’t provide any detail pics until I get back to it in a few months. I did find a few pics that might help. I installed this while enroute on a camping trip, it was easy. Initially I got common plated steel bolts at the nearest Home Depot, they didn’t have them in s/s in the correct lengths. I ordered the s/s locknuts, bolts and washers and replaced later.
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This link discusses some tote carry options. If you do a search in this forum, you’ll find several threads that show methods for carrying these totes, including strapped to top of storage box in front carry tray.
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On 5/15/2022 at 1:27 PM, Mike D. said:
Four 1/4” SS bolts through 4 holes drilled in the bottom of the basket.
To be more specific, there are 4 bolts per upright support, a total of 8. The 1” square tube upright supports come with two 1/4” steel backing plates, with 4 holes in each. I insulated the painted steel uprights from the aluminum storage tray with rubber strips. I do not have a pic that shows the attachment details, will get some when I can if anyone is interested. There is enough room left in the tray to carry the chocks & levelers, which is just about all the weight I want to carry. We carry the gray water tote nearly empty. I squeeze some Calgon in there with a bit of water to slosh around while towing, so the tote stays relatively fresh smelling.
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Another spec will confirm you need the Andersen WDH. See the table John Davies posted earlier. It states the Maximum Tongue Weight capacity for a Titan XD hitch is 500lbs (no WDH). Your vehicle might be different, but probably not. That spec is not on the door stickers, it may be in your owners manual. The Oliver LE2 Tongue Weight is 490 lbs, empty & parked, without the front basket. Therefore, you will likely be over capacity without the Andersen WDH. If you are ever involved in a crash (your fault or not) your insurance contract could be voided, because by law you must adhere to OEM towing specifications.
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On 6/21/2022 at 4:12 PM, Keith-n-Jill said:
Given that our Ollie will be under cover three weeks out of the month, should I disconnect the batteries?
I have a similar pole barn storage situation, it is heavily shaded, no direct sunlight. Despite this, my panels get a charge during daylight. In your situation, it might be enough to keep your batteries charged up. Given that it’s only a 3 week period of storage, perhaps you could not bother to disconnect batteries and check on it periodically to see if it’s doing ok? If you have a generator, you could charge up the batteries in a pinch. As a future mod, you may want to install a battery disconnect switch. Several posts on alternative ways to do this in this forum.
On 6/21/2022 at 4:12 PM, Keith-n-Jill said:Will I need to boot up and program the Zamp solar controller every time the batteries are disconnected?
Your Zamp controller does not require this. It will boot itself up quickly and work fine as soon as it gets sunshine.
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I don’t have an inverter so perhaps that’s why I have 4AWG.
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13 hours ago, mossemi said:
That cable does not look large enough to be a 4/0 cable which has an O.D. of 13/16".
Apologies, I had a senior moment while typing, I meant 4AWG. Not sure about that wire size, just guessing from my pic. I edited my post.
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9 hours ago, Jim_Oker said:
One of the things I learned from my woodworking boss was to treat both sides of any panel the same way.
In John D. Original post he mentioned the upper sides of the drawer panels were already clear-coated, hence my suggestion the bottom could be done likewise to seal & stabilize. It was just a thought, I may do nothing to my drawers until it’s necessary.
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20 hours ago, mossemi said:
Does anyone else have liquid tape on their frame ground stud or connections? My second question concerns the 4/0 x 5/16” lug attached to the ground stud. Does anyone also have a 4/0 ground cable connected to the frame ground? Are these now common methods on units coming from the factory?
Looks like I have some black stuff sprayed on the ground stud. Another easy task on my list, check this out and improve this ground connection as needed.
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4 hours ago, Jim_Oker said:
It would help a bit with any spills or leaks as long as you catch them reasonably quickly.
Yep, I get your point. However I meant the underside of the drawers (the side you don’t see), just as an overkill measure for those not in agreement with the glue.
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Would clear-coating the drawer bottoms with polyurethane help reduce moisture absorption?
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2 hours ago, topgun2 said:
Seriously, there have been a few cases where these lights have "issues" within the first year (or less) of operation. A quick call or Service ticket will get it resolved for you.
I’ve had only one light stop working in galley. Could have been my fault as I was tapping them instead of touching them, my wife finally trained me. A quick call to Service had a new one sent immediately.
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36 minutes ago, Landrover said:
The up side is the service Oliver provides.
Case in point, consider Jason spent 2 hours via phone helping to resolve a non-warranty situation for a second owner.
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19 hours ago, Rivernerd said:
Tires on new cars and trucks are balanced, why not tires on new high-end trailers? You pay $65K+ for a brand new trailer, then get to take it to a tire shop to have all 4 tires balanced?
I checked my 2021 on pickup, all 4 were balanced. It seems some slip through. This has come up before, Oliver will reimburse the owner for the balancing, but it’s still a hassle. Also, just to confirm, 2019 & later are using Cooper Discoverer HT3 LT 225/75R/16 tires.
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2 hours ago, geO said:
I found using Frank's method of lifting the trailer to be the easiest!
I agree geO, Frank’s method is very good. I haven’t had to do it yet, but if I were removing wheels at home to do maintenance, I’d use the equipment I have, which includes large floor Jack, Jack stands, wheel chocks etc. all on a level concrete floor. However, your original post and objective wandered off into roadside repairs, which is what my posts referred to. How I will change a tire on the side of the road is different than how I will change it in my garage, due to the equipment & conditions.
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1 hour ago, Piney Woods Ranch said:
Is a neutral grounding plug exactly what it sounds like - the neutral and ground prong are jumpered together at the plug?
Yes, this is correct. The way I read your post, I cannot tell if you are asking if you need a neutral ground plug. As mossemi advised above, the answer is yes. If you have a neutral ground plug, but it is malfunctioning, it can be easily checked with a simple circuit tester. I have an older Honda EU2000, and I have no trouble running the same AC you have, with the Micro-Air Easy-Start. I cannot run it in Eco mode. Your EU2200 should have no problem. If all your equipment is functioning, it could be as simple as too many loads as mentioned in previous posts. Some things to check if you have not already…Inverter Off, Charger Off, Refrigerator on propane or Off, Suburban hot water heater (if equipped) AC switch OFF. To test, just turn off all AC breakers except the AC.
To confirm your trailer indeed has the Easy-Start option you paid for, turn off the AC when connected to shore power, then turn it back on. The AC fan will start up, but warm air will come out. There is a 3 to 5 minute delay before the compressor kicks in. This is a built in system safety feature of the Easy-Start.
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2 hours ago, MobileJoy said:
Sorry, I left the area before I saw this.
That’s Ok, I’ll give it a try and send Jason & Rodney an email.
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13 hours ago, SeaDawg said:
I have a huge storage space, and can't use a microwave anyway, most times, as we rarely have power.
Same with us. We do have solar panels, but opted out of the inverter also.
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Doghouse Attachment Bolts Loose
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
I think you misunderstood this post. No bolts were buggered or replaced, just tightened. 🙂