katanapilot

Does the Dometic noisemaker A/C have an evaporator temperature sensor? I'm not an HVAC expert, but I would be concerned about operating the fan at too low of a speed and freezing up the evaporator. Sorry, I didn't take the time to read the attached file.

Be really careful with these inexpensive, rental spring compressors. Changing coil-overs can be dangerous. If you aren't comfortable with this type of repair - pay someone to do it. You may also be able to buy fully assembled coil-overs (strut and spring already assembled). It's quite often less expensive than buying all of the individual components and then assembling them plus you get all new parts. Replacement is much easier as well in most cases.

Nice installation. Do you know if (2) Honda 2000/2200 watt generators will fit in this box? I could do the math but I'm a bit lazy.

Add Wilwood front (6 piston) and rear (4 piston) brakes, OME suspension and a Magnuson supercharger and it's even closer! 😉

While I understand the stated reason behind deleting the classified section, I'm not sure that was entirely valid. Given that the market for used Olivers is pretty solid and most sellers want to maximize their return - who is going to trade their Oliver to a dealer for them to resell? In some ways it's like trading your car to a dealer (a really bad financial deal in most cases) versus selling privately through a site like Auto Trader. I know that selling a car can be pretty sketchy sometimes though, but I think most people buying used Olivers are above board and those transactions occur without too many issues.

Not difficult for you. I am challenged with complicated tasks like this 😉

Nice installation. I'm about to do this install as well, as I finish up the Victron MP2 and other components. Were you able to fish the #4 cables under the bathroom floor and into the drivers side chase without removing the shelf under the bathroom sink? I have a similar fish tape along with some fiberglass rods that work well for these types of challenges. I would prefer not to remove the shelf unless absolutely necessary. Thanks.

If you are anywhere near the Atlanta area, you can come by and look at my installation. Plus I now have a 2000 watt Xantrex inverter/charger you can buy (cheap) that I just removed from my Oliver. As to the Bright Way batteries - I'm not a fan. Mine (AGM) only lasted a couple of years and were never deeply discharged.

Appreciate the tip on the use of ferrules for stranded wire. Planning to do that on my MP2 install. Our 2020 E II (Hull 628) also has 12/2 romex throughout and 20 amp circuit breakers. As an aside - the National Electric Code allows 15 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuits provided there is more than a single 15 amp receptacle. Our Ollie’s have 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit as an example.

Although UF cable is probably fine to use here (and I have a bunch of it leftover from a former building project), the solid core wire is not at all flexible. I'm in the middle of the Victron upgrade right now and will either use SJOOW cord or the marine grade cable similar to what Oliver used originally - simply for the ease of installation.

Probably another example of the need to check your 120 volt connections at the various lugs throughout your trailer. This isn't the first burnt wire found and reported on this forum. So far, I'm not aware of any fires that have been caused by these failures - but it's certainly a possibility. I will be going through our trailer and checking all of these connections when I install the new Victron components.

Toyota already did. https://www.autoblog.com/2007/10/30/sema-2007-toyota-tundra-dually-diesel/

Likewise. It's not like these bearings or the spindles are highly loaded and require the best grease available. That being said, I use Amsoil synthetic grease for almost all of my components - but I'm a dealer and it's easy to obtain.

And it's possible you may be eligible for a Lemon Law buyback. Certainly an avenue I would consider versus having an engine replaced on a nearly new vehicle. Or try to negotiate a buyback without resorting to the Lemon Law process. Could be better situation for Toyota as well. I wonder when the hybrid models will be included? Same engine, but less of a safety implication since loss of the ICE is somewhat mitigated by the electric motor.

Why would you not just remove the PD charger completely? The Victron is so much more capable. For example - you can limit/inhibit charging based on battery temperature. So if you have lithium batteries with no heater blankets, you can prevent charging at low temperatures.

+1 for the L&L.

Don’t believe that’s the case in my trailer. My Xantrex inverter/charger acts as a pass through when on shore or generator power and the GFCI outlet is powered - which then powers (and ground fault protects) everything plugged into it. In my case, that’s the microwave and all the 120 volt receptacles.

You are absolutely correct. What I don't know is if Victron requires the two cable connection - to spread the load over the two input studs - or if a single 4/0 connection would be sufficient. I will reach out to them to ask. I looked again and my OEM cables are indeed 4/0. That being said, I currently (pun intended) believe the 2/0 battery interconnects are sufficient given the very short length of these cables and the 300 amp fuse I have installed. I am going to consider piggybacking an additional 2/0 cable between the 3 batteries. Thanks for being persistent and forcing me to RTFM a couple of times.

Understood, thanks. I have no GFCI receptacles except for the one on the Xantrex. Obviously a lot of differences between hulls. As has been discussed in other threads, the lack of a hull-specific wiring diagram is a definite negative.

Here is what I understand. Please correct me if I am wrong. With the OEM wiring and the 2000va Xantrex inverter, there is a 30 amp feed from either of the external 30 amp twist lock receptacles to the transfer switch (if so equipped) ,through the EMS and then to the main feed of the circuit breaker panel. One of the circuit breakers is a 20 amp feed to the AC input of the Xantrex. This powers the Xantrex for battery charge capability and also feeds the included GFCI receptacle on the top of the Xantrex. On my trailer, there is an access port under the drivers side bed to allow you to reset said GFCI. This GFCI receptacle has a plug on a 12/2 romex cable, which then goes to the microwave and all of the 120 volt receptacles in the Oliver. If I trip this breaker, I lose the battery charger, the microwave and the 120V outlets (on my trailer, Hull #628). I believe that by removing the Xantrex and installing the Victron, unless you have replaced the first receptacle in the line with a GFCI receptacle - you now have NO ground fault protected outlets in your trailer. Given my understanding of the wiring topography, I will either need to install a GFCI breaker in place of the microwave/outlet breaker (if one is available for this style panel) OR install a GFCI receptacle in the first one downstream of the C/B and then feed all remaining outlets downstream from the load side of the GFCI. Again, if I misunderstand how this is wired, please correct me.

Appreciate the schematic. Installing the Victron actually simplifies the AC wiring compared to the OEM wiring with the 2000va Xantrex. Still unanswered is how you provide GFCI protection. Your upper (OEM) schematic shows a GFCI outlet being fed from a switch. Unless yours is different from mine, all GFCI protection came from the GFCI outlet on the Xantrex receptacle. I can only assume you have now swapped out the first receptacle being fed from the plug (now directly connected to the upper C/B on the panel) with a GFCI and are now feeding all downstream receptacles from the load side of the GFCI. Correct?

"No kill like overkill" 😉 4/0 cable and connectors are just harder to install and bend radius is higher. Victron is perfectly happy with 1/0 cable up to 5 meters long and a 400 amp fuse. I'll use 2/0 for 4 foot run and feel perfectly comfortable with that. And I am typically the king of overkill.

I have to ask why so many of you are using 4/0 cable? My Oliver came with 2/0. Victron specifies 1/0 for the feed to the 3000va Multiplus 2 inverter for lengths less than 5 meters and 2/0 for 5 to 10 meters. Just concerned that I’m misunderstanding the wire ampacity tables.

Question about your GFCI comment. At least with my factory wiring, the GFCI protection for all of the trailer outlets came from the GFCI feed at the Xantrex. Removing the Xantrex (which I am doing shortly) removes the GFCI feed to all of the outlets. I haven’t dug in yet, but it appears I need to either add a GFCI breaker in the panel (don’t know if that’s even possible), or install a GFCI outlet at the first outlet from the panel and then feed all others downstream on the load side of the GFCI. How did you do this?

Following. Our Victron MPII just arrived, along with all of the other Victron equipment. Install to commence next week. Like others, the power assist mode was the primary driver. I found when running on generator power (dual Honda EU2200i) paralleled and in ECO mode, the generators could not start our Houghton heat pump. So I had to run them with ECO mode off all the time. I'm hoping that with power assist from the Victron, I can run the Honda's in ECO mode and still start the Houghton. Considered adding soft start too, but will wait and see if the power assist works as advertised.