katanapilot

Just a quick note on the use of twist drills - while they will cut through mild steel and do an adequate job, the use of an annular cutter is likely to yield better results. As these cut only the outer "annulus" of the hole versus a twist bit that removes all of the material in the hole - they cut quicker and cleaner. At least that has been my experience with them on several steel and aluminum projects. The smaller sizes are not terribly expensive and have been a valuable part of my shop's tool collection for several years now. One project I used them on was the replacement of the stock Bulldog coupler with the 2 5/16" size when we updated our Andersen hitch. https://www.hougen.com/cutters/annular-cutter-kits/annular-cutter-kits.html

Only because I didn't find any other Truma AquaGo recalls on the NHTSA website besides the one for Oliver trailers. Maybe I didn't look hard enough 🤷‍♂️ And yes, I’m aware that the recall notice received came from Oliver. My question was why there wasn’t a “global” recall for all Truma AquaGo units installed by other manufacturers. Hard to grasp that only Oliver received defective units.

Truma AquaGo recall notice received today. Has anyone asked and received an answer as to why the recall is for Olivers only? I assume these water heaters are used across the RV (and maybe marine) industry?

Without a doubt. However, our trailers are (or should be) designed and manufactured for how they are used. A few lockwashers and/or threadlocker installed where needed and connections torqued to their proper value would mitigate some, if not most, of these issues. Apologies for being too lazy to research - but does Oliver suggest in their manuals for owners to retorque electrical connections periodically during ownership?

I didn't say the issue was with Progressive Industries. OTT wires the trailers and connects the components. It's issues with these connections that have been reported here multiple times. That being said, there are component level issues as well - some due to failures of the components themselves, some due to improper installation. I stand by my comment of less than stellar QC "at the factory".

Glad you were able to get your issues fixed. However, this is yet another report of burned wires in the AC power system on these trailers, which is very concerning to me. Seems more like a QC issue at the factory than anything else. Also, one would think they would do a little more troubleshooting before throwing parts at the issue. Finding a bad connection/burned wire should be relatively straightforward versus replacing an inverter. It's reports like this (and very similar ones from car dealers) that make me very wary of repair shops. They start R&R of expensive parts before doing any real troubleshooting.

Tundras are like the Timex watches of old. At least for the first and second generation. Third generation has been a bit of a disaster for Toyota so far... I'll get rid of mine when someone pries it out of my cold, dead hands. 😉

Modern fuel injected gas engines absolutely shut off fuel when the throttle is lifted and the vehicle is coasting. With the torque converter locked up (on an automatic) the engine is driven by the wheels. Do a little homework and you will find this to be true on many vehicles. Here is an article from 2014 - https://newatlas.com/bosch-start-stop-coasting/30380/

Hopefully someone that has done this modification can help you. It's kind of difficult to troubleshoot via a forum without a lot of details as to what modification was done and how it was installed. Sorry you are having issues while out on the road.

Does the Dometic noisemaker A/C have an evaporator temperature sensor? I'm not an HVAC expert, but I would be concerned about operating the fan at too low of a speed and freezing up the evaporator. Sorry, I didn't take the time to read the attached file.

Be really careful with these inexpensive, rental spring compressors. Changing coil-overs can be dangerous. If you aren't comfortable with this type of repair - pay someone to do it. You may also be able to buy fully assembled coil-overs (strut and spring already assembled). It's quite often less expensive than buying all of the individual components and then assembling them plus you get all new parts. Replacement is much easier as well in most cases.

Nice installation. Do you know if (2) Honda 2000/2200 watt generators will fit in this box? I could do the math but I'm a bit lazy.

Add Wilwood front (6 piston) and rear (4 piston) brakes, OME suspension and a Magnuson supercharger and it's even closer! 😉

While I understand the stated reason behind deleting the classified section, I'm not sure that was entirely valid. Given that the market for used Olivers is pretty solid and most sellers want to maximize their return - who is going to trade their Oliver to a dealer for them to resell? In some ways it's like trading your car to a dealer (a really bad financial deal in most cases) versus selling privately through a site like Auto Trader. I know that selling a car can be pretty sketchy sometimes though, but I think most people buying used Olivers are above board and those transactions occur without too many issues.

Not difficult for you. I am challenged with complicated tasks like this 😉

Nice installation. I'm about to do this install as well, as I finish up the Victron MP2 and other components. Were you able to fish the #4 cables under the bathroom floor and into the drivers side chase without removing the shelf under the bathroom sink? I have a similar fish tape along with some fiberglass rods that work well for these types of challenges. I would prefer not to remove the shelf unless absolutely necessary. Thanks.

If you are anywhere near the Atlanta area, you can come by and look at my installation. Plus I now have a 2000 watt Xantrex inverter/charger you can buy (cheap) that I just removed from my Oliver. As to the Bright Way batteries - I'm not a fan. Mine (AGM) only lasted a couple of years and were never deeply discharged.

Appreciate the tip on the use of ferrules for stranded wire. Planning to do that on my MP2 install. Our 2020 E II (Hull 628) also has 12/2 romex throughout and 20 amp circuit breakers. As an aside - the National Electric Code allows 15 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuits provided there is more than a single 15 amp receptacle. Our Ollie’s have 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit as an example.

Although UF cable is probably fine to use here (and I have a bunch of it leftover from a former building project), the solid core wire is not at all flexible. I'm in the middle of the Victron upgrade right now and will either use SJOOW cord or the marine grade cable similar to what Oliver used originally - simply for the ease of installation.

Probably another example of the need to check your 120 volt connections at the various lugs throughout your trailer. This isn't the first burnt wire found and reported on this forum. So far, I'm not aware of any fires that have been caused by these failures - but it's certainly a possibility. I will be going through our trailer and checking all of these connections when I install the new Victron components.

Toyota already did. https://www.autoblog.com/2007/10/30/sema-2007-toyota-tundra-dually-diesel/

Likewise. It's not like these bearings or the spindles are highly loaded and require the best grease available. That being said, I use Amsoil synthetic grease for almost all of my components - but I'm a dealer and it's easy to obtain.

And it's possible you may be eligible for a Lemon Law buyback. Certainly an avenue I would consider versus having an engine replaced on a nearly new vehicle. Or try to negotiate a buyback without resorting to the Lemon Law process. Could be better situation for Toyota as well. I wonder when the hybrid models will be included? Same engine, but less of a safety implication since loss of the ICE is somewhat mitigated by the electric motor.

Why would you not just remove the PD charger completely? The Victron is so much more capable. For example - you can limit/inhibit charging based on battery temperature. So if you have lithium batteries with no heater blankets, you can prevent charging at low temperatures.

+1 for the L&L.