tripmushrv

Hey Topgun2! Get idea about per 3-1. I will add that change! I just wonder if rain would wash out the mark I make....but still a great idea! Yeah - per 5-9: Let me see what Oliver says, or if I can find it the torque values somewhere on this site. Edited: Founds it, and it is 90: Thanks!!

Not sure if anyone is interested, but I have been updating my checklist as I learn more. Attached is the newest version. Again, if you see any issues, please let me know. And if you are interested in it, just move on to the next post. Thanks! Check List (for everything!) - April 2023.docx

Thanks Jumper69. I am just glad at least one person find it helpful - this doc is really geared toward the newbie or people who need explicit instructions. Anyway, I have make a very couple of minor changes to it, but one big change is that I sanitized the water system yesterday...so I have finally completed those instructions (#14). Again, if anyone see any errors or see a way to make improvements to it, I would love to hear from you! Have a great day!! Check List (for everything!) - July 24, 2022.docx

Just what I wanted to hear, John! Thanks! I have a Renogy 20A Voyager, which as your know, is a PWM charge controller. I bought it because it was a cheap way to dip my feet in the 'solar waters', and I knew it would fit in the waterproof box I bought (same as Galway Girls), and it wasn't too expensive....but I know it would be better to have a MPPT one. So I totally agree with your advice....I will keep the Renogy for emergencies, but buy a nice MPPT one to put under the bed (that has bluetooth so I can monitor it with my phone).

Hi all! I recently set up a portable solar panel that connects to a charge controller that connects to my ZAMP outlet (big THANKS to Galway Girl for the post on how to do it, and for answering a lot of my questions!). But could I install my charge controller AFTER the ZAMP outlet (so it would be under ones on the beds inside the Ollie) but before the 20 AMP fuse, or must the charge controller be installed between the solar panels and the ZAMP outlet? Thanks.

John and Jodi....let me first say congrats on the new Ollie! You are gonna love it!! Personally, my memory it absolutely terrible! I will also admit that while I consider myself of at least average intelligence, I sometimes lack a little bit of common sense (pains me to say it) - probably because I always rush through things. So I still use the checklist religiously. We have done 4 trips so far wit the Ollie, so I MAY be able to get to a campsite and set up the campsite and unhitch the trailer; and breakdown a campsite and hitch up the trailer without using the checklist, but could easily forget to do something important and screw things up. So I use my checklist. Plus, my list also has instructions for things I don't do very often (like winterize or de-winterize the Ollie) - so in those cases, I will probably always follow the checklist. Plus, in case something happens to me, my wife could use it (in fact, we usually work as a team to get the checklist done). To answer your questions....yes, I definitely feel alot more confident about doing many things now that I have had time to play with the Ollie. But not enough to get rid of the checklists. How has the checklist changed? Well, in terms of hitching and unhitching, it probably has a couple of changes, but I don't think it has had any radical changes since I started the checklist (plus, I have done minor rewording, or rewriting to make things a bit clearer). But I have added new checklists, like the winterizing/de-winterizing ones, and am still working on the 'sterilizing the water system' checklist. Thanks for the kudos.....let me know if you helps you, or if you would make any changes to it! Trey

Thanks Boudicca! Again, probably most people don't need to have it so detailed, but I will attach the latest version of my doc here. If you see any errors or have any questions about it, let me know. Thanks! Check List (for everything!) - Copy.docx

Ok - after actually owning my Ollie for a couple of months now (and taking some trips with it), I have updated my checklists. Here is the newest one....for those that are interested. Check List (for everything!).docx

Thanks bhncb! I should have said that I ordered the tires, but they are still in transit and not installed. What tire installers would you recommend I go with so that I get the addendum added? Or should I just ask whomever I am thinking with going with if they will add the addendum?

Ok - so I finally landed on the MICHELIN LTX A/T 2 - LT275 /65 R18 123R E1 RWL for my Toyota Tundra. I did NOT go with the P275 /65 R18 114T SL BSW TM as they are not 'E' rated tires. What are your thoughts....did I buy a good tire for towing? I know the ride will be a little rough because they are 'E' rated tires, but that is ok. I did hear that I should keep a higher pressure when towing, and lower the pressure when not towing. Any thoughts on that, and maybe some ideas on what PSI's? Thanks!

Thanks for the info, guys. John - I checked out your master battery cutoff switch post - and it looks very nice! But am looking for something a bit simpler. Do you think something like this would work https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Horizontal-Vertical/dp/B07Z4R7W2D/ ?

Sorry to hijack this thread....but would this work for the Ollie I will be getting (that will have 4x 6V AGM batteries): https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Vehicle/dp/B07413JWLD/ ? The specs say: 275 A continuous at DC 12V, 455 A intermittent at DC 12V, 1250 A momentary at DC 12V But I think that 4x 6V AGM would give me 400 amps, right? (Edited - sorry, that would be maybe 400 amp hours...I'm confused!) Or do I need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Vehicle/dp/B07PN9DR6C/?th=1 ? It says: 600 A continuous at DC 12V, 2500 A momentary at DC 12V.

Thanks John and Jim. Yeah, I have heard these torque wrenches should not be used as breaker bars, and should be handled delicately. Thanks for the info.

Thanks Jim and Mike/Carol. I just bought a torque wrench, and have watched some Youtube videos (along with reading the instructions that came with it), so I feel with a little practice I will be able to check them with the torque wrench.

A big thanks to all that have looked so far....I know, this is mind numbing. I do enjoy researching and writing these up, and will enjoy actually going through the checklist after I get my Ollie....maybe I am a bit weird. Haha! Mike – great advice. 1) I thought that I read of some issue when allowing the refrigerator to auto switch – hence while I know it is possible, I think I will just do it manually. 2) I have been told that it is fine to keep the pump on 24x7…but would love to hear what other people do. 3) I will have the Truma On-demand water heater. Maybe someone can chime in on if there is anything to do with that when arriving or leaving? 4) Great idea about walking around the site for trailer placement. I will add it to the checklist. 5) I thought I read that if the site does NOT have a breaker (or off/on switch), then it was best to attach electric cable to RV first, then to campsite electrical box. So I figured I would just plug in trailer first, then campsite electrical box. But I could be wrong…either way, at the worst, it shouldn’t matter if I put into camper first. 6) Good point about gray/blackwater being on the same outlet. I have updated checklist. I agree that at the when I use the last dump station on a trip, that I should flush the black tank a couple of time. I will update my checklist with that info. 7) I will add ‘check lug nuts’ to pre-trip checklist. Can you tell me how I actually check them? Should I just use my hand and verify they are tight? 😎 I heard it is best to travel with less water….for gas milage. But I do agree that I don’t want to have to top it off near the boondocking site. I will update my checklist to fill all of the way. 9) Great point – I have changed ‘white water’ to ‘fresh water’. 10) Ray – thanks for the rewrite. I separated that outside and inside sections (1a/1b and 2a/2b) because I am blessed to have a wife that will be helping me….so she will take the inside stuff and I will do the outside stuff in parallel. Although we do plan on switching it up sometimes so we can have a better understanding of how to do it, just in case one of us is sick or traveling solo. I agree that sometimes the order does make a difference. I tried to be very mindful of that, ad tried to order it correctly – but if order did not matter, I tried to order it so it was done efficiently. That being said, yes, please let me know if it could be better. Great point about checking power and water before unhooking…I will update the checklist. I changed the unhitching process by changing some of the terms I used – yours were better. I think one of the big differences between your and mine, though, is the fact that in mine, I remove the hutch coupler pin (but do NOT pull up on it) a lot earlier. That is because I followed the most current ‘Anderson hitch – instructional guide’ video put up by Oliver (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPT_-4rBDbo). In that video, they run the 7-pin through the ‘metal clip of the bulldog coupler’ – so in my checklist, that would need to be done very early on. Anyway, my #7 (now #10) looks like this: 10) To unhitch trailer (after you are sure you are close enough to water/electrical/sewer): A) Unlock hitch lock. B) Detach safety emergency brake cable from truck and stow. C) Remove hitch coupler pin (that has 7-pin electric pigtail under it) from hitch coupler lever and stow. D) Detach 7-pin electric pigtail from truck and stow. E) Detach safety chains from truck and stow. F) Put leveling blocks under front jack leg so it doesn’t sink in. G) Lower front jack leg so tongue is raised about 2-4" until chains are slack. H) Pull cotter pin from WDH triangle pin. I) Pull WDH triangle pin from WDH (you may have to wiggle triangle back and forth while pulling out). J) Insert cotter pin back into WDH triangle pin (so you don’t lose it) and stow WDH triangle pin. K) Drop WDH triangle and chains on ground. L) Raise front jack leg so tongue is level with truck hitch. M) Pull up on hitch coupler lever. N) Lower front jack leg to raise tongue and release tongue from ball. If necessary, use foot to push down on hitch to help separate ball from hitch. O) Lock trailer hitch with hitch lock. Good point about opening shower drain when dumping….I have updated the checklist. I have removed the A/C cover reference. Jim – yes, I have spent hours poring though those checklists, but found that I, being a newbie (and maybe a bit mentally challenged) needed a lot more in-depth info.