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Geronimo John

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Geronimo John last won the day on May 20 2020

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  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
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    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan
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  1. Just to head off a small stampede of owners that think otherwise....... the issue is not strength of any of the Anderson components. But rather wear of the ball itself. This is especially the case of those needing extra weight distribution (Ergo high chain tension) such a Sequoia's, Land Cruiser's, and some half-ton trucks. The increased size of the 2 5/16 ball provides a larger contact wear surface at the ball.
  2. For those of us that cover a lot of miles and worry about running the 3-Way on 12V there is another solution: Per John D's info, the 3-Way needs 15 amps. A Victron Orion 12 |12 -30 DC to DC charger (for example) run with 4 AWG cables from the TV to Ollie's Lithiums will provide just short of 30 amps. So all of folks with solar suit cases don't need to duct tape them to the truck any more. πŸ™‚ And we have about 50% of the Orion still available to charge our Lithium's too. The next logical question is what does it cost to power up the 3-Way by the TV or by propane? GJ
  3. I would really like a 3" trailer coupler extension to provide a bit additional clearance for the F-150 tailgate, and clearance between the front trailer box and my F-150 rear bumper. An extension of the trailer Ball to Axles would reduce tongue weight a bit, and also provide the desired increased clearances. (Vs. an extension of the Anderson receiver length would increase the tongue weight's impact on the axles.) So, please do start a new thread (As JD Suggested) if a solution is found. Mahalo, GJ
  4. In 2018 I purchased Hull 342 with the 2 5/16" Bulldog/Anderson. With my F-150 the set-up worked in such a way that if my truck and trailer were in line, I could open the tail gate without damage to the gate. This past spring, I upgraded to the new version. It is taller in the saddle, and as a result my tail gate can not be fully opened. The bulldog release now hits the tailgate just below the camera. Tried to adjust the drop hitch level, but there is a "dead zone" between drop hitch up and drop hitch down. No go. Only way to fix it is to buy a new 2" drop hitch without a dead zone....... Any F-150 owners have a better solution? Thanks GJ
  5. For my 2005 Sequoia TV, I used seven threads as I needed to toss weight forward to reduce excessive squat as much as possible. For my 2019 F-150 Super crew, I only need three threads and my axles TV axles are weights are good, and squat with the Anderson at three threads reduces squat from 2 1/2" to just 1 1/4". With the Beast (F-150) and Ollie fully loaded for boon docking (Full fresh water), full 36 gallons of fuel, one driver, and connected with Anderson in play at three threads, here is what the truck scales say for each axle(s): The BEAST OLLIE Front 3,000 Axles 5,350 (Ollie tongue weight included in truck numbers.) Rear 3,550 Truck 6,650 Truck 6,650 Actual GCW 12,000 Max GCW 16,200 Under GCW 4,200 POUNDS UNDER MAX
  6. I'm in the final stages of designing my upgrade from 12 volt Duralast Marine L/A Deep Cycle batteries (OTT Base Battery Package) to three Dragonfly Energy Battleborn 100 Ah lithiums. Doing this while almost 4,000 miles from our Ollie has created some challenges. I would greatly appreciate your assistance with the following: Pictures of the OEM Duralast battery cables in the battery box area. (My hope is to clear out all the battery clutter, an re-use as much of the 4/0 cables as possible) Close up pictures of the Positive and Negative Buss fixtures. Needed to connect the DC to DC charger, solar suitcase panes, and 350 amp master cutoff switch (Battery + Home Run) What are the + and - buss terminal diameters for the 4/0 (3/8"?) and terminals for the smaller cables? Upon completion of the effort next summer, I'll post a materials list of the effort. Thank you, GJ
  7. In addition to JD's sage advice, I would not recommend 65 - 70 PSI in our OEII E-rated tires. YES, they are rated for 80 PSI, and you yes you could use this high PSI. In fact it was as recent as 2019 that many of us were using pressures in the 55+/- range. I liked that higher pressure for on road and high speed freeway use only. But as has JD and others, we have taken it down to the 45 to 50 psi range to soften the otherwise harsh ride that we were causing our Oliver's (Bouncing cushions and kitchen ware). More importantly, off road you really need to consider a much lower pressure to avoid rock punctures. Suggest searching tire pressure threads and take note the date of posts and recommended pressures. You'll find that over the past 4 years or so, both the on-road and off-road recommendations have come down quite a bit. Mahalo,
  8. Not trying to be Oliver R&D (Who ever that is at Oliver per Topgun2), but the engineer in me thinks from a structural perspective, HDPE would be perfect. However, from a vibration perspective something softer would be preferred. Sort like a rubber composite with some give to absorb vibration, but also enough dimensional stability to keep its' height. That would take some research, but such materials do exist. For example the large diameter Concrete Sewer Lines, or Blue Brute both use a "Rubberish" gasket that has bulk, some compressibility, but dimensionally stable when compressed to the desired thickness. Lets say for talking purposes, that we wanted to use a 1/2" OD tube, then the spacer/gasket may be 3/4" think and compresses down to just almost a half an inch for tube passage. Would have some sponginess for vibration, but still give the anchor bolts resistance. REALITY CHECK: All that neat engineering overkill may be needed, but then if the Houghton does not have any vibration then HDPE would be a lot easier. πŸ™‚
  9. Having lived with the current OEM "Hammer Mill" A/C, if I had known then what we all know now, I would have insisted that Oliver keep their A/C and take the full list price credit. Then buy a good quiet Houghton and install it myself. Oliver has known that this unit is a major customer issue for a lot of years. In fairness thought, there were no great options available back then. There are now options, and they need to wake up and smell the roses. Again in fairness, thinking it can happen for the 2022 model year is most likely wishful thinking. GJ EDIT: DELETED TEXT ABOVE: Per Katanapilot: "I'll respectively disagree. The Atwood Air Command unit that John Davies has in his Oliver was factory installed some number of years ago."
  10. The stumbling block will be for R&D to figure out a way for the evap coil condensate to the existing internal drain tube. Some time ago, I postulated that if the Houghton were elevated a bit (Spacer, rubber mat?) that it could provide for a flow line (down hill path) for the condensate to get back into the unit and out the existing drain. Considering that the distance is only about a 18 inches, and at an optimal flow grade of 1/4" per foot, the elevation of the spacer could be as little as3/8" for flow. Likely thought the tube would be a 1/2" tube from the Houghton exit back through the spacer . That would require a about a 5/8" spacer. Certainly worth R&D doing a layout and plan drawing just to check it out! However, my comment didn't attract any responses from anybody..... 😞 None the less it appears to be an option for R&D to look into. MODERATOR: Would you please forward this to our R&D Team? Thanks, Geronimo John
  11. That's a lot of Ollie's lined up. What's with that?
  12. CnC and JD: I extensively researched many Lithiums, and as other Oliver owners, narrowed the field to BB's and Lithionics. My factors in doing so were their USA mfg, warranty, reputation, reviews, quality and warranty considerations. In a previous thread, when JD called to our attention that the BB's were on sale ...at a great price... that pushed me over the line to purchase BB's. My trailer electrical loads during travel are to resupply the power used by trailer brakes, DC refrigerator, and to recharge of lithiums for power used overnight. These estimated suggested that for my use, a 30 amp DC to DC charger is optimal. Anything larger would be unnecessary. The 30 Amp Victron Orion cost me $220 with Military Discount and free shipping from BB. The 25 amp Redarc lists as $389, and the 40 amp at $452. +1 for VO. As importantly, BB highly recommends the Victron gear. For similar reasons, I chose the Victron 712 Smart and Victron Orion (VO) 12|12 - 30 DC to DC Charging System. +1 for VO FULL DISCLOSURE: I grease my Anderson Ball for friction reduction. My rig is tongue heavy, and I have never experienced any trailer sway even under extreme crosswinds, grades and trucks blowing by out west. My choice, but greasing the ball "could" be contributing to a restricted return ground path. My F-150 Lariat, SCrew, 3.5 EB, FX4, MTTP comes with fuse #43 that is a 25 amp slotted M-Class fuse. Unfortunately, when Ford went to the aluminum body, the wire size to the 7 pin was reduced. Granted fuse #43 will protect the wire, but it's voltage drop is significant enough that I do not believe it could also feed a 30 amp load to the Lithiums. I have noticed that during the past four seasons using L/A batteries, the 7-Pin trailer connection has significant heat generated discoloration for both the Charge Wire and Ground Wire connections. (And yes I do use di-electric grease to control corrosion). My opinion is that the existing Ford and Oliver electrical wires (Out and Back) are undersized. As does several other Ford and Oliver owners. Research into this lead me to use a "Non-Isolated" DC to DC which requires running both a + and - cable to the trailer systems. It's wiring diagram is slightly different than the one you posted. Good news is it will also significantly improve the return ground path between TV and Ollie. My measured distance for running these electrical home runs approaches 50 feet out and 50 feet back. Although 6 AWG stranded copper could be used, I, BatteryCables USA, and the Victron Forum felt that using the larger 4 AWG was the proper choice. (Not to mention that's what Galway Girl determined as well.) I think we can agree that all DC to DC chargers require careful attention as to how their "waste heat" is dissipated. After all, this WAS the point of my creating this thread. For the VO at least I could find published specifications that quantified the input power and output power needs. The difference between the two is waste heat that must be dealt with. For the Redarc I was not able to locate such data. My experience is that when a manufacture does not want such a comparison to be made, they don't provide the specification data to do so. -1 for Redarc. Regardless, as a PE with extensive heat transfer professional experience, I prefer the fact that the VO is addressing the heat build up issue front on. Large heat sinks and their optimal vertical placement of heat sink cooling fins for heat dissipation was noted. +2 for VO. However, as you indicated, this negatively impacts the number of suitable locations for installation. So, - 1for VO. I am sure your hole in the plate is a good idea to help out the Redarc in this regard, but where are it's external heat sinks? Or do they need a supplemental cooling fan or artificial airstream to keep their cool? Not evident from what I can see from their limited pictures or descriptions that I could find. -1 Redarc. In summary, I thought that since about the only time I will be using my VO will be when I am traveling, why not put it vertically in the front dinette under seat area. With the cushion and hatch cover removed there appears to be space for heat flows up and out of the under-seat area without providing any additional heat to the OEM street-side bunk area. So, maybe a +1 for Geronimo for creativity. This effort has a nice but steep learning curve. Getting my arms around it has been a fun challenge, but doing so would certainly not be possible without the expert inputs that you both, and others have and are providing. They are much appreciated and I look forward to every response. GJ
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