Geronimo John

Start with three each for the jacks. Or make every owner sign a waiver that they will not operate more than one jack at a time.... LOL One for all the electronic outlets

Forgive me if I am not understanding your problem. But here is what I am thinking: Your Hull #70 is most likely set up like my 2018. A hot water requires a bunch of energy. It can get that energy from propane or 120 volt. The switch on the unit activates the 120V AC power to heat the water. The switch inside just activates the circuit board. Our hulls are not set up to power up hot water from the DC source. It is not like the refergerator that is. The Suburban hot water heater needs energy from three systems. The 120 V lines provide alot of power to the unit if your outside switch is on to use 120V power to do the heavy lifting (heating water) The DC power to to the gas solenoid valve to provide propane to heat the water if you want it to do the heavy lifting. But regardless of how you want to provide the energy to heat the water, you also must have DC to the circuit board. Those wires are not sized to provide power to heat the water. The DC wires are there only to provide power to the circuit board. Put a massive load on them and one would think you would blow it's fuse. Likely the reason your not blowing the fuse is that your new demand hot water has a sensor that will not energize it's heating coils unless the voltage is high enough to work properly. IF THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM Then you have a larger project than you anticipated as you'll need to run a new DC + and - to your demand hot water heater. I sure hope I am missing the boat on this one. GJ

JD: Battery health with a 2023 should not be an issue. But you are correct in mentioning it as a possibility. Hopefully some how he didn't get Battleborns slipped in...... Traveling Angels: If the above testing does not lead to a conclusion, then JD's hint that the batteries themselves could be an issue. If you have more than one, then they would need to be individually charged to SOC 100% and load tested. What are the brand of your Litho's? GJ

I note that some of the newer trailers have a 300 amp DC breaker. Fortunately ours is a 300 amp fuse. Good suggestion to upgrade the breaker. GJ

nice!

Step One: I agree with Tom and Doreen's post. Step Two: If you put a volt meter on each side of the breaker and use a common ground for the - lead, you can measure the voltage drop thru the breaker. If it is nominal, then the next step I recommend is using your brake temperature IR gun to scan all the 4/0 terminal temperature. They all should be about the same. If you find one hotter, then make the system safe and clean that terminal. Then retest a second time. Clean the next hottest one and retest. Repeat until you see all of them about the same temp. Good luck. GJ

Many of us know that feeling. We purchased ours from Hawaii having never seen one in person. But what we, as you, did was to really study the tone and helpfulness of the members here on this forum and the "SOB's" (Some Other Brands) as well. At the time, and still to this day, I think that the owners sell more trailers than OTT does themselves. No other brand came close in this regard. After our purchase I had an opportunity to go to the factory tour and instantly fell in love with our decision. As a technical we all know that machines need maintenance and TLC. Also that some times tweeks to the foundational design of a machine is necessary. WIth OTT, we have seen a few upgrades, a few changes, and very few OOPS. And the number of OOPs is very small. However over times things change. The two biggest changes I have observed in the past ten years from an owner's perspective likely are the percentage of owners taking their OTT's boondocking further into the wild and running heavier than earlier years. The impacts are higher "G" forces and typically +/- 6,000 pound weights on the suspension 100% of the time. Both of these changes are not OTT fault. There is clear evidence of premature spring failures from OTT owners having road side spring failures, and dozens more finding that their springs flatening out way too early in what should be a normal spring's useful life. So a design change is needed. I believe from history that OTT would not ignore such failures without concern and would be monitoring our experiences. I also would wager one of Art's famous home brews that they are looking at an upgrade standard spring to the 2400 # Dexter four-leaf springs and an option for a "Boondocker's Heavy Duty" suspension package featuring the Alcon type of 5 leaf. Those options both make good common sense. Good news is that OTT takes a lot of care and time, as they should, before making such changes. In that regard it would smart to keep track of the owners who have changed their springs and to monitor them in the normal duty and heavy duty class. In doing so to get specific data as to the pros and cons of their spring choice for their use. If I was running their quality control team that is exactly what I would be doing. One needs data to to make data driven decisions. GJ

Per the above posts, even that group is seeing failures. Time for OTT to wake up to the reality that the owners want a change to a stronger spring. For JD's sake I'll not go further on that! LOL GJ

The #1 Ollie Tool I purchased was the Lock-N-Lube lock on grease gun fixture. It is amazing and certainly helps. I had a new ole style grease gun and just added the below to it. Love it. With it I did not need to go right angle. I liked the 45 degree ones better. Especially with the below. When I need to replace my grease gun, I'll pay the bucks for the Lock-N-Lube version for sure JPR

You are on the right track in attacking the bolt head end. Certainly the approach in your above quote will work. But the Hex Nut Capture Washer would look and perform better. And they are dirt cheap. See my DIY. DIY - Dexter EZ-Flex Center Bolt Spline Repair (20 APR 2024).docx

PS SWEET BARN! And Ollie too of course! GJ

Roger, I have a very simular issue but harder. If the approach is level, carefully checking clearance is easy. Mine had a foot tall "ramp" that would kick the rear of our Ollie up about 5" as I backed into the lean-to enclosed area. I removed the gavel floor took out a couple inches of dirt and re-graveled. Still no go. Then I hauled back all that dirt, and a bunch more, and made an elevated area 20' long and 10' wide "Table" in front of the barn door. So I back Ollie up onto the "Table" and then it was an easy back into the "Ollie Cave". Hope yours is a level entry. GJ

Had problems with trying to include my DIY attachment. Trying again. GJDIY - Dexter EZ-Flex Center Bolt Spline Repair (20 APR 2024).docx

DIY - Dexter EZ-Flex Center Bolt Spline Repair (20 APR 2024).docx Yes for splined bolts you MUST do so. Yes, that "someone" was me. Here is my DIY to fix it. Hex Bolt Capture Washers. Only alternative solution would be to replace the tangs and that is much more invasive than the capture washers. GJ

Hey JD Looks like I'm lagging behind on posts about springs. LoL Can we lock all spring pages? Just kidding all questions deserve a respectful answer. gj