Try2Relax
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Posts posted by Try2Relax
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Overland, I don't know if you've seen this yet, it provides good information on their unit.
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Woohoo! Congratulations!
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Wow, for those costs it sounds like a CLAM outside the front door is privacy room enough for me. Thanks Buzzy.
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The Novakool R5810 is a 5.8cuft, which is almost the same size as the current fridge (slightly smaller). Draw from it while running is 4.4A on 12v, with a 50% duty cycle. So it should be less than 1/4 of usable battery. The interior is configured pretty much the same as the existing Dometic.
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As long as we're throwing them out there, I usually refer to this site
http://www.rvtripwizard.com/rv-info/state-road-laws.html
Virgina - RVs equipped with ICC-approved LP tanks, not exceeding two 45-pound capacity tanks
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Matt, the other one to include would be Reserve America between the two of them you would cover pretty much all public campgrounds.
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Bill, I very much appreciate your guidance. I do view our Forum as the best source for insights into solving our issues. At first, I honestly thought I was the only owner having this issue, but maybe that is not the case. I do tend to make every attempt to fix issues on my own. (Duct tape works wonders and bands aids are not that expensive!) For me, history has proven that is my best approach. I guess OTT may not understand the upper cabinet latch issue. I saw how they did a great job redesigning the latches for the propane cover, so I would guess they have the expertise to redesign the cabinet latches for existing and prospective owners. Tommy has been very helpful in the past. I thought he was in the process of moving back to Ohio so I did not want to burden him especially if the recommendation was to simply tinker with the latch or hinges. My great hope is a proven solution for switching out the latches which I can do myself since I cannot travel 2500 miles round trip to fix four latches. If Overland makes progress, my solution may become apparent. Thank you for your understanding and patience. Buzzy
Buzzy, does this show in any of your videos? I have never had an issue with mine and wonder what the difference is between them, there doesn't seem like there would be room for much. Does it not affect all of them in you trailer? If not, can you see any difference in those that do and don't?
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I agree on the purchasing decision reasoning, some people balk at the price of some things though.
I have an awning on both sides and always situate the ladder so that it is against the awning where it mounts to the trailer, so I'm never actually against the trailer. Once when doing extended work I draped my heavy shirt over it as I was causing a bit of movement. 12" section of pool noodle on either side should work well too.
Yes, the beach towel would be perfect, I only have the straight ladder so I can't answer how finger friendly the folding mechanism is.
I will say, when closing the ladder, do so upside down, this way you can close it one section at a time, if done right side up it will close extremely quickly gravity fed.
When opening it from the bottom first, you only need open the sections you want, so it can be a 3 foot ladder if need be.
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The ladder in the video is telesteps, I purchased the same one HERE, and keep it in the same spot in the closet. While these are certainly not the least expensive ladder you could buy, they work perfectly for accessing anything on the roof, I've repaired my Mach 8 from it and cleaned the MaxxAir along with washing the entire roof by hand. I'm 6 foot tall.
As for pruning trees, I have used it around the house for that purpose, when I could brace it against a branch to wouldn't sway too much, I do not use a chain saw though, I use THESE which I've cut through branches about the size of my wrist, without problem.
Otherwise, if you search Amazon for telesteps you'll see they also have a quasi step ladder which may still fit in the closet.
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The shelf unit below the sink is removable. Depending on whether you have a newer or older unit affects the ease at which this is accomplished. This is good for both the plumbing and accessing the wire run from the front of the trailer.
You can find the info here
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Thank you for taking the time to explain it. I really do appreciate when people who have the knowledge are willing to take the time to impart it rather than just state "because that's how it works"
So basically, I got lucky, the system is small enough and the durations are short enough that in this situation the check valve works but in a larger scenario it wouldn't be as effective. As you explain it, the closer the check valve is to the faucet the greater the affect it will have then. Thanks for that clarification.
One of the nice things about the way Oliver laid out the system, at least around my hull number is that the water lines lay in the channel directly underneath the bathroom heat duct, so when the furnace runs it warms the water lines that run to the shower.
We have two showers at home, my wife prefers the aesthetics of the single mixer valve, so insisted on it for her remodel. For the other, I put in the single controls with a shut off, she now understands the benefits of the single system and prefers it too.
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Sorry, I am almost always on my phone when on here and cheated the easy way for the screen capture.
Here is the link for the Truma PDF it says it's all three systems and just lists that connector 3 is for the plus. So basically the guts are the same just that tee is added, makes me think they are probably all able to have it internally, just whether it's hooked up and configured.
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I don’t see a way for the hot water being pushed backwards to happen, because it’s running at the same pressure from the same pump.
I will work from two trains of thought, but first let me state that I have no working or education background on this subject, I believe I read in one of your other posts you have a background in boilers, so mine is from what I see figuring out my problem and what I then find researching it out on the web to explain why.
1. If one pump feeds the system and one path is 1 foot and the other path is 10 feet where they rejoin, the "by whatever margin" the longer path would have lost more of its pressure just by the friction of passing through more pipe. The single pump trying to reach balance would therefore find it, in my mind anyways, at the 4.5 foot mark past the join point, which would then be center of the path.
2. Cold water has a higher density than hot water, thus if the pressure IS the same at that point would the higher density liquid be able to move the lower density liquid or if not move it then overwhelm it?
Now, in a closed system I would agree that when the two ends were joined that both sides would hold their own equally, but with the dribble valve engaged, this bleeds off pressure and is what allows the denser higher pressure fluid to attempt to equalize.
Otherwise, I do not have the education to understand the why, but stopping the reverse flow as described, corrected the problem for me and I'm just a get-r-done kind of guy, without a lot of education to get in my way.
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It would be nice if we could just set the hot water temp ourselves in a perfect world like I have done here at the house.
And as I have done at my house, with a Takagi unit back before you could by the on demand system in the big box stores. This was what I checked for and ultimately why I decided the Truma system wasn't worth it to me.
While the second attachment you have is somewhat of a parts list, this one is more of an image, of the left side actually, maybe it will help your search. 18 is the circulation pump
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As I have been asked about my plumbing setup and how I choose to rectify the hot water lapse in the shower I will post it on here so that whomever might benefit from the info can. The problem being that when taking a shower "Navy Shower" and using the trickle switch on the shower head, this is supposed to allow the water to dribble so that the hot and cold water stay present at the head, however in an unbalanced system one will over power the other and when the valve is re-opened you will get too much hot or cold until the balance is restored. In our systems, keeping in mind that my trailer is #69 produced in early 2015, the configuration is such that the cold water has a more direct line to the shower head than the hot and with the 6 gallon tank the hot water would lose some of its pressure there too. So basically the system allows the cold to build more pressure at the shower head and over power the hot line (My system is dry right now or I would throw a pressure gauge on it to see the difference to be accurate). The easy fix for the problem is to insert a check valve into the hot water line between the hot water heater and shower head. This will not allow the cold water to over power the hot and push it back up its own line, placement isn't critical as the return flow is stopped the entire length in front of it. One thing to note is that the kitchen faucet tees off the hot water line under the front set of kitchen drawers, so behind that would allow reverse flow if the kitchen faucet is not closed completely.
One big thing to note is that this will effectively stop a gravity drain of the hot water line from the shower, however blowing out the line and filling with pink stuff would be unaffected.
I also did some checking on the initial flow of hot water with the Truma system as has been discussed recently. For those of you who are meticulous about your boondocking and water conservation, the initial flow of hot water to clear the cold out of the line results in a waste of .22 gallons, if not recaptured. For those with the suburban heater, creating a recirculation system is easily possible, however you would need to be comfortable removing the shelf unit in the bathroom to access the PEX as close to the faucet as possible to install a tee and return line, then determine where you would like an open/close valve and reconnect to the system in front of the pump. This way when you turn on the pump, it pressurizes the system and if you open THAT valve, only the hot water flows in a circle to clear the line of cold before the initial turn on.
I would imagine that Oliver would be able to add this configuration easily enough for a couple hundred dollars on any new trailer with a suburban to get the same effect.
The check valve that I used is the Shark Bite, I prefer these as they do not require any crimping and can be removed if draining the line is necessary.
Here is the link to the Check Valve https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-U2008-0000LFA-Check-Valves-2-Inch/dp/B00506ET10
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Oh, my apologies then, looking on a phone they looked like bags, I wouldn't think there would be a problem then as that is what they are designed for, so they should breath. Disregard the earlier post...
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I would purchase some white bags to go over those black ones, the heat they can generate during the day can quickly cause moisture build up with a transition to cold night and the sweaty result, to the wheels/caps/hardware may not be pretty come spring.
If it's not in an area where you'd worry about them getting stolen, you might just want to get some of the as they would be good for summertime use too. They're what I put on mine.
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Welcome. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like it would. Even with a stripped down and empty Elite II you would be right up against your max trailer weight and also your combined weight.
In most setup cases, the trailer would end up weighing more than your trailblazer which would very quickly end up being a case of the tail wagging the dog, at the worst possible time.
One of the other numbers to look at, which you don't list, is what hitch weight the vehicle would be able to handle. My Elite II is about 800lbs at the hitch.
Being single with two small dogs, if you don't want to change your vehicle to something larger, maybe you could look at an Elite as they are quite a bit lighter.
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Oliver offers a 1 year warranty to the original owner.
That being said, I am the second owner who purchased it past its 1 year anniversary.
Both issues I had with my trailer Oliver took care of under warranty without a single question. They even reinforced the bracing welds on my A frame, as I had seen them in some photos of a newer trailer and asked about them while there.
To me, this is some of the reasoning to paying a premium price and actually seeing that the value is worth it.
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Oliver trailers are designed to be lifted by their own jacks, the only caution would be lifting one too high on its own, so as to not twist the frame too much, so use both in the rear or all three as desired. The three built in jacks provide 9000lbs of lifting capacity (together).
Oliver only warns against extended time on them, as in storage situations.
I replaced my original Dexter setup out to EZFlex with the two rear jacks, no problem.
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Since I do not have a detailed knowledge of my water lines and where leaks could occur, I see checking the weep holes for any drainage in the spring. Oh, boy what fun! Buzzy
Buzzy, this is exactly how I found that there was a leak when I first got mine from the PO, I happened to notice a drip on the ground under the winterization port (never used it) felt the channel above the weep and found it wet, finally traced it all the way across the back wall to the other rear corner where the inline regulator connection was leaking, I LOVE not having a plywood subfloor. I would definitely recommend, every now and then, a little nose up attitude just to help the weep holes work to double check leaks.
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Bill,
Thanks for the parts pictures, I used the generic air fitting for doing it but can see that your creation will work much better.
That strainer is also the only place I noticed any water leaking, although using a VIAIR portable, my pressures where a little higher than recommended and even that barely leaked at all.
With yours leaking at 35, what kind of water pressure did you have in your shower running off the pump last summer?
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Scotty, sorry about the delay, I'm usually only on here on my phone and that is pretty difficult at times, never mind attachments... Your checklist looks good, I marked a few questions/comments
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J-Rhett,
Being new to this also, I will recommend to you to also check the Airstream Forums over at http://www.airforums.com, the Oliver forum is relatively pretty young and doesn't have the extensive knowledge and experience base that can be found there. With this not being an Oliver specific issue, you may find you can find a lot of information already covered, without even having to join. I often use it as another resource to more general things.
Good luck with your research, either way.
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in General Discussion
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I'm sorry, but I won't be joining your FB group, I'm one of the ones that won't go near it (FB). While you may consider the group "closed" that is only to regular people doing general things, anyone doing anything on FB has to agree to all the terms which means they and all their partners, subsidiaries, etc... can access anything they want and use it for whatever they want under the guise of "marketing". Just like you can download any app from the store, but you can't use it until you agree with ALL its permissions. The fact that FB continually "updates" their policies, thus requiring users to re-opt out of privacy restrictions and then burying them in new locations the user has to find, to me indicates the nature and ways of their business.
So if anyone is looking for me, I'll be here and as has been done already, sweet talking Anita will get you direct access if required. Another way one can go about it, click on their "want to see you trailer" provide YOUR information and then they can contact you, this would indicate a true desire and willingness to "go first" in the sharing of personal information.
Good luck with the group though.