Try2Relax
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Posts posted by Try2Relax
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Buzzy, you don't mention if they need a chair. If so, the biggest obstacle will be that door, replacing the fridge I found that it is less than 22" wide.
If needing a ramp, I would think the door lip is a perfect setup for attachment.
If mobile, I would probably look at the fold out extended railings that are found in the entrance steps of other trailers.
Inside, in such a small space I would only think strategically placed hand holds (think Reeds mod) for balance, would be the only alteration.
This is why a wet bath is good, so they can sit down to get clean. I might replace the seat cover with a hard one so it doesn't flex and slide around.
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Those of you with the friction overhead doors may not want glass given your doors tend to develop unexpected door openings.
What are friction doors? Picture? I didn't realize they had different ones.
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Well isn't that funny, when I googled it the first site to pop up was
https://seadogboatingsolutions.com/omnia-stove-top-oven.html
Any relation?
They do seem interesting, while we don't have one, I believe it was over on Fiberglass RV where they've been discussing them fairly recently.
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Just in case. While it can be overly cautious that doesn't necessarily make it unnecessary.
With all the horror stories of unregulated pressures out there, if you are gone for the day and have a bad fitting let go, I'm pretty sure the weeps in the belly would be overcome and it would fill up. Lots of good stuff down there and these would retain water faster than a ....
So it's just an easy thing to turn off and on. At least that's my thinking and doing.
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I had purchased a 7000is EFI, to power the house in case of emergency (aka: New England weather) didn't want a stationary Kohler so I could take it with me when we move. Has worked out perfectly, now it's locked in the bed of the truck, except to have the oil changed. Now if I expect bad weather I just park next to my outside house connection.
I did the conversion myself, with the kit they sent, super easy with good directions, took about 1.5 hours, I don't tend to rush. I didn't buy the Gen from them as that wasn't the plan when purchased, propane only came about with the trailer and travel.
I wouldn't hesitate to buy the finished setup from them, then they will warranty the whole thing. They also offer you sending then your Gen and they will convert it for you.
I can't speak to elevation, I don't have the experience with it.
As to power loss, I haven't noticed any difference in the running of the generator.
The solar setup on the Oliver is very strong, on a cloudy day with the trailer under a tarp, still charged at 1+ amp. You would have to be in some horrible conditions to need very much supplemental Gen for battery charging I would think a 1000 or 2000 would be more than adequate (but not to run ac)
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I second that. They are adorable. Quality time.
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Overland, Not sure about the F150 but we just bought a 2017 F250 Superduty and I love the way it drives. It really beats our 2007 V-8 Tundra 4×4. This is our first Ford and so far we couldn’t be more pleased. I would recommend giving them a try. We haven’t used it towing yet but our little Ollie should be done in less than a month now… Yvonne
Yvonne- make sure you use your parking brake, there's a recall, if you weren't aware.
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2015 Elite II, axles travel weight 6100lbs, 750lb tongue weight, Andersen WDH (hooked up on scales)
2013 GMC Sierra 1500 max tow, 9600lbs rating (6200lbs hooked up on scales) GCVW 12,300lbs
Upgraded from Fiat 500. (okay first truck and first trailer.)
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Well that certainly is of piqued interest. If you come up with a few thoughts and guesses let us know. I'm curious if the full length hinge and it's installation might have something to do with it.
On another thought, in your travels will you be anywhere near the factory? With this and the potential frame twisting you've mentioned in the other threads, I think I might request a thorough in depth inspection of the entire frame structure, if anywhere close to being close by.
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That is a horrible attempt at a half assed fix, the first time I'm disappointed by them. Both pieces to the resolution are fixed with no play, there is no room for anything being off in the slightest and that one is supposed to hit both drawers.
This may be a pain in the ass to deal with but you should pick up some of THESE, if you attach one on each side of that strip, in the back, with the corresponding plate on the back of the drawer that should hold them closed. The magnet mount screws are elongated for adjustment and the magnets float in the frame for some play, so if everything isn't straight they can still make full contact. There are some stronger ones listed that are a little more expensive.
If the clearance on either side of the drawer is at least 1/2 inch, I would really consider replacing those slides with the side mounts, but that's just me.
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My apologies if this is a duplicate, seems the forum is back to its old way's.
Reed, looking back to your original picture, on the back of both drawers, one on the top one the bottom, is a metal plate, it looks like the receiver for a magnetic catch.
Would you look in the cabinet and see what's back there. If I'm right, I'm guessing Oliver was aware of the weakness and tried to rectify it with the extra holding power of the magnet, if that's the case you might need to adjust it to hold better. If that's not it, then I'm really curious as to what is for.
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/members/airstreaminc-120571.htmlReed, I just looked at your initial pictures again, on the back of the two drawers in the center are two plates, on is on the top and the other on the bottom of the drawer back.
I've never seen someone install these before on a drawer, would you look inside the cabinet and see what is in the back at these locations? Looking at them they look like the receiver plates for magnets and if so it seems Oliver was aware of the weakness and tried to rectify it with the extra help holding the drawer closed. Hmmmm... Curiosity....
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Yup, those are the Blum's and those little screws are the ones they come with.
The whole reason for not screwing or gluing them to the slides is so that they are click and remove. Did you remove the slide from the cabinet? I don't remember those slides having two parts, it's the slide and the clip correct?
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Having been in the business, presentation wise the under mounts are the way to go,so I would guess that when they switched to dovetail drawers they also switched the slides. And as most airstream owners are aware, too much weight in them will override the ability for the drawer to keep itself closed and once it's open and banging against its full extension it's real weakness shows and that is that it's only those little screws that hold it in. I've plugged the holes and reinstalled them many times and that was for non-moving, non-vibrating house kitchens.
While not as visually pleasing, aka not as "high end" the side mount soft close are much stronger and can hold themselves closed better. They are slightly more time intensive to install with having to line up both components and screw both sides of the slide to its respective structure, but obviously worth it where situations demand.
You should be able to replace the current hardware with the side mounts if desired the tolerances were fairly close, if I remember correctly, you need to pad the side a little. Otherwise search the airstream forum and review the straps, braces, velcro, rubber bands and everything else they've tried to keep theirs closed.
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+1 to Sherry. I've also found that on my phone, after the initial load, the whole thing works pretty quickly if I'm not logged in and operate as a guest.
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I just read this on the Airstream forum and for some reason couldn't stop chuckling, so I wanted to share it. Screen capture instead of link.
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The times are always screwy, they change whether you are logged in or not. Also the names at the bottom, yesterday there were two names on the page, I logged in and those two names disappeared, it showed 7 other users logged in more recently and one other active besides me, all this in a one minute time span.
The reasoning is always the cache, either on your phone, on their server, out somewhere in between depending upon the path your provider and the host server uses to communicate.
I've always found, so far, that clicking the lock icon in the side bar has always been correct about my logged in status. That and whether the box appears at the bottom of the screen to post a reply.
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To ScubaRX’s point, I also watched the crew walking on Ollie Rooftop while doing the plant tour. I asked that particular question and they said it is no problem. I have spent a few brief moments on mine..and it did not collapse. Perhaps this is a question that should be asked at the Rally.
This is good to know, when I was there last summer having work done I asked Justin, the guy coordinating all my service as Tommy was on vacation, and he stressed not to stand on it and said they only ever move around on hands and knees to spread out the weight load.
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I don't know, my thinking is that very seldom would I ever park directly on the top of a peak, so I prefer to use my 4 individual chocks on the down hill side of each wheel.
I don't see the faster deployment, necessarily, than the singles in any emergency. On the plus side, I've used one of yellow single ones as a ramp to pull the wheels up onto a block (trashed it, had to get a new one, but did what I needed it to)
Is your purpose to stop the roll off or do you think they might provide some sort of stabilising affect?
Do most of you chock your wheels in both directions? I've never thought it necessary and wonder if I've been in error all this time.
Steve - WOW as advertised, that is the most beautiful hitch I've seen, seems a shame to use it and scuff it up.
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Here is another good article. LINK
It does come down to what your looking for. The biggest plus for PWM (Zamp) it seems is that it is good for prolonging the life of the batteries. The MPPT (Blue Sky) system is better for using whatever available light there is to maximize the charge to the battery.
This explains why I found that when my trailer was completely covered with the tarp the controller still showed it was sending +1 amp of charging to the batteries.
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Found what I was looking for, attached.
Oh - Load Range E tires will have an 80psi max pressure stamped on them.
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Just as a side note, if you happen upon a scale, stop by. I don't know if your using an Andersen, I'm guessing you are with an F150 as the hitch requires it I believe, anyways you will probably find that your front axle and rear axle are about the same weight, as such when loaded with a trailer on the back and an engine up front you'd probably be better served raising all of them up to 40psi.
Oh, if they don't have "LT" printed on them, then they are in fact "P" no way around it (and LTX doesn't count, they're "P")
What size are yours?
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I have the canvas and haven't had an issue with them. They're currently covered in snow. They're there to protect against UV rays, for the most part, so you don't really need to put them on or have then on when raining or too wet, just my experience.
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That would come down to what the specifics of your tire are and what your numbers are from a proper weighing, while fully set up for towing.
Maximum weight carrying ability and sidewall strength is achieved at maximum tire inflation, as indicated on the sidewall of the tire. From there each manufacturer has charts explaining what different pressures achieve in regards to weight carrying ability.
For example LINK
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Adapting Ollie for Amputee
in General Discussion
Posted
I believe this is the correct seat replacement, it's enameled wood instead of plastic.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CXB7CWS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&%3Bqid=1491356689&%3Bsr=8-1&%3Bpi=SL75_QL70&%3Bkeywords=dometic%2B310%2Bseat&th=1&psc=1