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ScottyGS

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Posts posted by ScottyGS

  1. 3 minutes ago, John Welte said:

    I am just trying to get my option list figured out before August.   Are you going with the basement access door? 

    Yes.  At $200 it's cheap enough to store small items that you want handy.  Also, the basement is long.  I usually keep an old fire poker and use it to hook the milk crates I use to store stuff.  But, if you had something small that was tough to reach it might save you crawling into the basement.   You have plenty of time to think about it. 50% deposit and final build list is mid July - ish.   Sorry for taking the thread off into the cube heater woods.     

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  2. 48 minutes ago, topgun2 said:

    I've got a small "cube" ceramic heater for when I'm on shore power.

    There are a number of owners that have a small Vornado but the ceramic heater is even smaller but is still 1500 watts - more than enough to nicely heat up the Oliver.

    Bill

    Our cube heater has a dial thermostat.....   as you rotate it, there will be a point when it turns from off to on.    Made the mistake of turning a bit too far past that point on the first night we used it.    Woke up at 3 in the morning and it was 85 degrees inside.    Won't make that mistake again.   Those little heaters are awesome to run when hooked up.  

    • Like 1
    • Haha 2
  3. On 1/22/2022 at 2:17 PM, Galway Girl said:

    Example pix in survey.

    1) One concern we shared is that for shorter people that puts the Conv/uW too high for safely taking out hot foods.

    2) We would be fine with an under counter  compressor fridge as it has little more cu ft than the existing fridge. 

    3) We carry a ARB ac/dc compressor chest fridge in the back of our truck for extra space and it’s been a great combo on our 7 month road trip. 
     

    4) As to the quieter a/c would be great in hot locations. Doubt if we would upgrade  immediately, long way to Hohenwald from WA.  

    06080107-7E8E-47CC-8058-BFD8D9214115.thumb.jpeg.9aae6feebf39345b6d87b1c0bd37e9c8.jpeg

    Not sure we really know what the configuration would look like.  This photo looks heavily photoshopped.  I could see Oliver going with a taller unit and sacrificing some storage above, but doubt they would encroach on the entrance.  You would probably have to re-create the fiberglass mold for that section.   If they did move the oven up to the curve near the ceiling.. you would block the port needed to service the light switch panel.  Unless you moved the panel.    Too many questions to speculate and I think most of us would like to see (pictures or in person) an actual trial install before deciding.  

    That being said... with Lithium battery options becoming an RV standard.... I think a 2 way compressor fridge makes a lot of sense.  Would probably run in eco mode for 20+ hours on 100ah of Lithium.   No worries about being level and it would be colder on a lot less energy.   Just my $.02. 

    • Like 2
  4. 7 hours ago, John E Davies said:

    It is legal to carry a handgun in the Park, as long as YOU are legal to do so in the state of Montana, but if you have to fire it, you will be prosecuted. It is illegal to kill a grizzly. Spray first, if that doesn't work, then consider the weapon. And it had better be a big one. As an example of the trouble you get into, watch the episode of Yellowstone where one of the hands has to shoot one.

    https://outsider.com/news/yellowstone-tv/yellowstone-tv-unforgettable-rip-wheeler-scene-based-several-real-accounts/

    John Davies

    Spokane WA

    Apparently it is ok to kill a grizzly... If you work for the forest service and the bear has already killed someone else.   https://nypost.com/2021/07/09/400-pound-grizzly-that-killed-camper-in-montana-shot-dead/

    Montana has constitutional carry (open and concealed) as long as you can legally posses.  Some restrictions on where you can carry concealed.  Know the law... and in the case of bears...  Carry a caliber that begins with a FOUR.   .44 and .45 come to mind.  1911's are great pistols but in this case I would go with a Springfield Armory .45 with a 13 round magazine and one in the pipe.   And, a holster you can draw it from fairly quickly.  It's no good sitting in the bottom of your day pack.    Bears are serious animals. 

    Happy camping and Say Hi to Yogi for me. 

  5. I am always impressed with the level of support that we get from the OEM parts mfg's on our Olivers.   I would imagine that the amount of business any one manufacturer gets from Oliver (300 + units annual) is smaller than most of the other trailer mfg's.   Yet, we still see a high level of support from just about all of them.  Might have something to do with the cachet of the Oliver...  Or, maybe they are just doing things right.  In any case it boosts the level of confidence that Oliver TT owners have.  Glad you figured it out. Good Luck. 

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  6. No direct knowledge but... Have heard that autoformers are frowned upon in some campgrounds because they pull the power from other sites.  Heard it on the internet so it must be true.  Might want to consider that...    Good Luck. 

    • Like 1
  7. 36 minutes ago, Nancy S said:

    Thanks for the advice!  Oliver II hopeful.  We are currently driving an F-150 2.7 Eco Boost.  GVWR 6600.  It will probably be a while before we get an Ollie unless my husband is blown away during the tour which is what I am hoping for.

    Nancy

    We pull our LE2 with a 2016 F150 with the 3.5L engine and towing package.   You will want to check your owners manual very carefully as to payload and towing capacity.  Unless I miss my guess you will need the Anderson Weight Distributing Hitch.  Check the fine print in your manual with regard to using a WDH.  In 2016 it says that without a WDH you will reduce towing capacity by 50%.   5k vs 10k for us. 

    You might also solicit info from this forum from F-150 drivers with the smaller engine.  I have been happy with performance with the 3.5 for over 5 years now.  But, have no experience with the 2.7 which is about 40 hp less.  You might be fine or there may be things to be aware of.  

    Good Luck on the tour. 

    Scotty

  8. We use the red stacking leveling blocks.    Easy to use and they are light.    Link is: https://www.campingworld.com/stackers-leveling-pad-78796.html?cgid=levels-leveling-systems

    Have not used an additional surge protector BUT... I ask about the quality of power when checking in and keep an eye on it when hooked up.  You can get sketchy power in a lot of campgrounds.   

    Camco water filter works well:  https://www.campingworld.com/camco-evo-premium-water-filter-56670.html

    Good Luck 

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  9. Access to the plumbing controls with the mattress and bedding is most definitely a major PITA.    As is getting to the valve to drain your fresh water tank... and NO.. I have never been successful reaching that from the access port.  

    So here is my solution:   Push the mattress up and then use the hatch door to prop and keep it up.  Then you can change the valve configuration to take on water.  When you're done change the valves back, replace the hatch cover and drop the mattress.   Not exactly what you asked for but it's been working for me.   

    Good Luck and Happy Camping. 

    • Like 4
  10. Not noisy at all.... when compared to an F-14 on a full afterburner climb out.   Seriously though I think we may be in for some relief.  I don't have any insider info but looking at what is happening in the RV industry I believe we will see some changes in RV air conditioners.   Houghton and the Truma Aventa are low noise alternatives.   Dometic would do well to take their newly purchased Atwood technology and incorporate it into their line.  If they don't I predict a competitive disadvantage for them.   A low noise A/C is something the RV consumer will soon be demanding... (previously asking).     Lithium batteries will drive demand for reduced power as well.   Five years ago only the technically advanced tinkerer would experiment with battery run A/C.  Now it's becoming an advertised feature.    For existing owners an upgrade to Truma or Houghton is available now.  Some Oliver owners have replaced with Houghton (search the forum).  And there is at least one Oliver with the Truma.  (unless we have been fooled by a photoshopped pic) :classic_biggrin:    

    • Like 4
  11. Again...   Not trying to compete... draw people away... split... from either the FB group or this forum.    I see the different groups as having different aspects / strengths.   The forums are awesome and I have received a LOT of help here, and given some back.  The FB group is fun and has helped me to keep in touch with Oliver friends both old and new.  The MeWe group is new so it remains to be seen, but I think it might be a good place for discussions for the Oliver OWNERS Community only. 

    As to the moderation of the mewe group, people you know and trust are involved in the moderation.   I plan to be active on all three platforms for as long as I own my Oliver.   If mewe is not your cup of tea.. I understand.   If you are judging mewe from the google article that John posted, I am not finding that to be representative of what I see on mewe.  

    So, best wishes to everyone.  Safe Travels.  Happy Camping.

    Scotty

     

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  12. Hey Everyone,

    Just an FYI to let you know that I have started an Oliver Trailer Owners Group on MeWe.   The URL is:  https://mewe.com/join/olivertrailerowners

    This will be a group for Oliver Trailer Owners only.  To discuss all things Oliver related.

    Hope to see you there.

    Scotty

    Hey Everyone....    I just want to clear a few things up regarding the MeWe group.

    This group is on a separate platform from the Oliver Trailer Owners face book group.    My intent is NOT to compete with OTO on fb or to cause people to leave that group. I have renamed the MeWe group to "Oliver Trailer Owners on MeWe" to make sure there is no confusion   

    Reasons for starting the group are:  * having a group that is restricted to Owners only ( a group I never would have started on fb because that would have caused a lot of confusion and problems )   * Providing a group for those that wish to reduce their presence or "addiction" to fb      * There seemed to be some interest in an Oliver group on other platforms and I figured it might be best to have people who are actually Oliver TT Owners start and run it.

    We all love and are proud of our Oliver Trailers.  We are all very interested in promoting the brand and helping each other with the knowledge and work that it takes to use and maintain our trailers.   I remember the early days when owners would fall over each other in their eagerness to help.  I tell people about the time that Steve Landrum called me out of the blue and spent an hour with me on the phone trouble shooting a problem when I first got my trailer.   That's the kind of family we have and the spirit we should foster.

    With regard to the MeWe platform.   From what I see... it's kind of like face book lite.   I am still new to the site but the appeal of MeWe is that (at least so far) the users don't seem to be the "product" as much as on fb, and it seems more open.   Where it goes from here.. who knows.  But as for the Oliver group it should remain as A-political and as well managed as the fb Oliver group.

    I hope this clears up any of your questions.  Please join or not as you see fit. And, I look forward to sharing our Oliver passion on the Forums, the FB group and the MeWe group.

    Happy Camping and Safe Travels.

    Scotty

     

     

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  13. Occasionally I get a "clunk" sound when starting from a complete stop.   Also when coming to a complete stop.    Sometimes it's worse than others and sometimes not there at all.   I have checked the ball ( new from Anderson so shouldn't be that) and the inside of the bulldog hitch and am not seeing any wear.    I lubricate the ball with a light coating of grease before hooking up and make sure the Anderson chains are taut and straight.   Any idea what could be causing this?   Normal?    Should I be concerned?      Thanks in advance.

    Scotty

  14. Good Description Trainman!   I struggled with hooking up the safety cables at first until I started rotating the hook 180 degrees so it was upside down and putting it on from the bottom.  Once on.... rotate the hook again 180 degrees again so the meat of the hook would take the force in the event of unhitching.  The F150 has a flat plate with oval holes and the width is such that you need to kind of slip the hook on this way.  To remove, I do the opposite 180 degree rotate but as you do that you have to move the flap to the open position.  A real pain at first but now it's pretty easy.   I suggest new owners with F150's lie down on the ground and play around with it a bit. This way you can see what you are doing and figure it out.  After that you can do it blind.  Good Luck.

  15. Up on the Roof....

     

    Spend the last few days up on the roof of #145 waxing and checking seals.   Found that the MaxxAir fan seals were cracked and worn.  Removed the old and applied new sealant.  I used Loctite PL Marine Adhesive Sealant.   It was a bit expensive..... about $9 for this small tube.  But went on very easy, dried quick and appears to be a tough, durable seal.  Pics attached.... Be careful up there.

     

    Scotty

    IMG_1391.thumb.jpg.b80f7e3094d4fa383fcd3eaaf65ede6c.jpg

    IMG_1390.thumb.jpg.c8ce3d7e7f337a926260177530b3761f.jpg

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  16. Yep... that's why I chose to use an inexpensive garden hose quick connect.   If it gets hit by something on the road it should break away and then it's like.. $3.50 to replace.  If it doesn't get hit then I have tree fiddy to give the loch ness monster .... If he ever comes to my door selling girl scout cookies.  :-)

     

    Scotty

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